Coop Posted May 26, 2021 Author Share Posted May 26, 2021 Sad part is, some folks get to go to Woodworking schools like Marc Adams and Lonnie Bird’s and I have to go to Anna White’s (?) school on how to paint a piece to make it look old. 🤪 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted May 26, 2021 Share Posted May 26, 2021 4 minutes ago, Coop said: Sad part is, some folks get to go to Woodworking schools like Marc Adams and Lonnie Bird’s and I have to go to Anna White’s (?) school on how to paint a piece to make it look old. 🤪 I know I'm laughing at this but, my coffee bar in the kitchen is the same way... Killer walnut top on top of a BB store unfinished cabinet finished with chalk paint, glaze, and some WB clear....lol. For the record, the piece still looks great and is holding up super well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted May 26, 2021 Author Share Posted May 26, 2021 Thank you my child! I’ll hit you up instead of Anna! 😀 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted May 26, 2021 Share Posted May 26, 2021 Coop Marc Adams has you covered 🙂 https://www.marcadams.com/product/decorative-finishes-distressed-aged-fumed-crackled-with-david-smith/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted May 26, 2021 Author Share Posted May 26, 2021 No disrespect to the guy giving the class but I believe I could pull those examples off without spending the $390. 😀 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted May 27, 2021 Share Posted May 27, 2021 As much as I like taking classes that one will probably never make my list either but just didn't want you to miss out 😄 I'll be there on 6/11 for the Michael Fortune #1 chair class as well as the jigs class the weekend before and his bs class the sat after. I am looking forward to this one should be a fun build and lots to learn. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted May 28, 2021 Author Share Posted May 28, 2021 Darn good thing I went with poplar as it was close to $400 which included 2 sheets of 3/4” birch ply and 1 ea. Of 1/2” and 1/4”. Also included soft maple for the drawer, 1/2 of which will go thru the planer. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted May 28, 2021 Share Posted May 28, 2021 1 hour ago, Coop said: Darn good thing I went with poplar as it was close to $400 which included 2 sheets of 3/4” birch ply and 1 ea. Of 1/2” and 1/4”. Also included soft maple for the drawer, 1/2 of which will go thru the planer. My thinking is this. Non of us want to pay more then we have to for lumber, but you wouldn't be able to buy the quality you are going to build for $400. 1 1 Quote "Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not; remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." - Epicurus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted May 28, 2021 Share Posted May 28, 2021 2 minutes ago, Chet said: My thinking is this. Non of us want to pay more then we have to for lumber, but you wouldn't be able to buy the quality you are going to build for $400. Agreed! For me, the Alder would have been 1/2 that price and similar on the Janka scale. I don't know what @Coop's local lumber market is though.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted May 28, 2021 Author Share Posted May 28, 2021 Knotty alder is $1.95 where superior alder is $4.65 bf. Almost twice the price of poplar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted May 28, 2021 Share Posted May 28, 2021 3 minutes ago, Coop said: Knotty alder is $1.95 where superior alder is $4.65 bf. Almost twice the price of poplar. My "knotty" alder is usually pretty clear and yours is a nickel cheaper than mine.. Curious how clear yours is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted May 29, 2021 Author Share Posted May 29, 2021 I went for the poplar and soft maple for the drawer. And birch 4x8 cabinet paint grade ply, 3/4”, 1/2” and 1/4” for the tops, bottoms, side panels and back. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted May 29, 2021 Author Share Posted May 29, 2021 Here is what I’m shooting for, construction wise. However, it will have only one drawer at the bottom. The doors will be raised panels which I will attempt on the ts. I’m thinking of breaking up the doors into two raised panels each. One, to make it easier to cut on the ts and two, to match our bedroom door. The br door has a 36” panel at the top and 24” panel at the bottom. Does that sound logical, 3/2 ratio? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted May 29, 2021 Share Posted May 29, 2021 2 minutes ago, Coop said: Here is what I’m shooting for, construction wise. However, it will have only one drawer at the bottom. The doors will be raised panels which I will attempt on the ts. I’m thinking of breaking up the doors into two raised panels each. One, to make it easier to cut on the ts and two, to match our bedroom door. The br door has a 36” panel at the top and 24” panel at the bottom. Does that sound logical, 3/2 ratio? A little confused on the bottom drawers.. One drawer total or 2 drawers full width? Hope you're up to snuff on crown molding... 😉 Nice looking piece! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted May 29, 2021 Author Share Posted May 29, 2021 One wide drawer and that’s where you come into play, later in the game on the bottom mount slides. Crown molding will be purchased and yeah, have done several throughout the house. My first attempt was actually upside down but I attest to this day that it was intentional. 😀 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted May 29, 2021 Share Posted May 29, 2021 7 minutes ago, Coop said: One wide drawer and that’s where you come into play, later in the game on the bottom mount slides. Well, in the next day or 3 I'll be doing the drawers in the nightstands with some tips and tricks so, be sure to remind me to drop you a link to that video when it's done.. They're really not hard bud.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted May 29, 2021 Author Share Posted May 29, 2021 I’ll be watching! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenskye (Bryan) Posted May 29, 2021 Share Posted May 29, 2021 Coop, I’m not following the 1 drawer thing. I get your making it basically the width of the case, but if your going super deep, I think that is a mistake from a function standpoint. If you made exactly like above, I would do 2 full width drawers, for the top portion, I would keep as 1 raised panel per door, I think 2 would look strange with the wide drawers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted May 30, 2021 Author Share Posted May 30, 2021 Bryan, thanks for the input. Wife wants more shelf space than drawer, thus the reason for eliminating the top drawer. Plan is to build this in two sections, top shelf area and bottom drawer and support. Here is a rough drawing of the front, with one panel and two. My thinking on the doors is that two panels would help break up the long door and two, make it easier to cut the panels on the ts. And, a design/proportions guy, I am not! The drawer box will be 16” deep and approx 7” high. Here is a pic of a armoire that we purchased many years ago with one drawer at the bottom. This one has an area on the left for hanging clothes and shelves on the right side. There is a vertical divider where the doors meet than I don’t intend to have. The 41” shelves will go the full width. There is a mirror on the left door in case you are wondering what that is. So far, I only have the pieces cut for the two side panels and am certainly open for suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenskye (Bryan) Posted May 30, 2021 Share Posted May 30, 2021 Coop, it looks like the top section is a lot taller in your drawing than the photo. I think 2 panels would be fine but to me the smaller panel on top would be my choice. Wife wins, so take my opinion with a grain of salt. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted May 30, 2021 Share Posted May 30, 2021 19 minutes ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said: Coop, it looks like the top section is a lot taller in your drawing than the photo. I think 2 panels would be fine but to me the smaller panel on top would be my choice. Wife wins, so take my opinion with a grain of salt. Agreed.. I think it would "lighten" the top a little to have the smaller panel on the top.. Also, the client is always right! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted May 31, 2021 Author Share Posted May 31, 2021 5 hours ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said: Coop, it looks like the top section is a lot taller in your drawing than the photo. I think 2 panels would be fine but to me the smaller panel on top would be my choice. Wife wins, so take my opinion with a grain of salt. It is taller as I am eliminating the top layer of drawers. Not sure if the pic has four drawers or two wide drawers but mine will have only one wide drawer at about 36”. I am making it in two sections with the break at the molding above the drawer. Wife only agreed with two raised panels in each door and not the proportions. That was my decision based on what our two panel door looks like going into the bedroom. Again, I don’t do proportions well at all and welcome all suggestions. I could make them equal for that matter. Appreciate the input. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted May 31, 2021 Author Share Posted May 31, 2021 I usually mark an arrow indicating which side of my mark to put my guide but didn’t in this case. I caught it before make the second pass with the router. As it will be painted and it’s on the inside, any kind of filler strip will do. A shallow dado for a fixed shelf to fit into. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted May 31, 2021 Share Posted May 31, 2021 1 minute ago, Coop said: I usually mark an arrow indicating which side of my mark to put my guide but didn’t in this case. I caught it before make the second pass with the router. As it will be painted and it’s on the inside, any kind of filler strip will do. A shallow dado for a fixed shelf to fit into. Man! Have I done that before! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted May 31, 2021 Author Share Posted May 31, 2021 As I cut the rabbet in the side panels for the top with the dado stack and the dado for the shelf with a router, there was a wee bit of difference in the depths of the two cuts. The router plane took out the difference. One of those tools that I don’t use often but sure comes in handy when the need arises. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.