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  2. Actually this would work on any size box if you wanted. First thing what I show here I learned while taking a class of Matt Kenney's, so the credit goes to him. You start out with you stock mill on both faces and both edges and you also want to true up the two ends. You don't want to do that down the road. You want to start with a perfect stick of wood. I mark mine up a lot to keep things straight. I put an "A" on one end, both sides and a "B" on the other end both sides. I also make "Fence Side" on one side and "Outside" on the other just because. Th
  3. Today
  4. Nice! Now to find you some 1/4x20 square nuts and grind them down to fit the slots for your sacrificial zci fence.
  5. Yesterday
  6. Great tip with the spacer block, will be using that one
  7. I took a class on box building taught by Matt, that is were I learned the techniques. My mistake it should have been 12".
  8. Probably to allow for the miter cuts? Had second thoughts but could not delete this.
  9. Coop

    Spanky's Lumber

    Aside from the walnut I bought for my door jamb and trim, which was $10.25 bf, I haven’t bought any in a while. I thought you said it was dirt cheap and you couldn’t get rid of it by giving it away and paying the freight?
  10. Will follow along! Not 100% sure but I thought I saw Matt Kenny do something like this in his 52 boxes in 52 weeks book. Now I have a question, you cut the long sides at 11” then added a 5” block for cutting 7” pieces. Was this a typo or California math?
  11. Maybe for others but, yes please. That’s the way I do it.
  12. Yes. Maybe I can do a Photo demonstration of the process. Its pretty simple once you see it.
  13. To get the grain match all the way around, did you resaw the boards for the sides? i like your idea about the spacer. Darn, you did get the nuts to fit in your miter gauge! I guess I’d better get back to the grinder!
  14. I have had this idea of building a small box, like something you would keep small items, maybe jewelry or other bobbles, and using smaller boxes as lids for some of the compartments. Woodworking is probably to the point where anything you think up has probably been done and I am sure this is one of them. This will be my spin on whoever had this idea first. The bottom box will be about about 7 inches deep 12 inches wide and 2 1/4 inches high and have five compartments. I am using a technique for cutting the wood that will create a grain match wrap around at all four corners of the box.
  15. Spanky

    Spanky's Lumber

    Coop hardwood lumber just keeps going up. What's it doing at you're lumber store in Houston?
  16. Last week
  17. Received my replacements yesterday along with some stickers and a free Bridge City 6" rule 🙂 All better
  18. Those turned out awesome. Great job
  19. Coop

    Veneer Pieces

    Thanks guys. Never thought about the MC, same as with lumber. I will leave them as is until a project comes along.
  20. I would leave them rolled up, that is how I store my veneer. If you can’t you should sandwich between plywood. You shouldn’t have to rehydrate them before use, not a good idea anyways, unless they are very brittle, you can check this at the edges.
  21. Chet

    Veneer Pieces

    I have heard this guy on a few podcasts https://ramonvaldezfinefurniture.com He always gives out his contact information for peoples question and he seems like he really wants to help. He does a lot of work with veneers including some beautiful marquetry. He has a contact form on his website above
  22. Kev

    Veneer Pieces

    The MC should be relative to your area. I'd certainly let them acclimate to your shop for a few days but, I don't think you'll see much change in the MC. Unrolling could make them a little more manageable when you're ready to use them.
  23. Jamie

    Veneer Pieces

    I have never worked with veneer but have been reading in it recently. Guys store them unrolled, might take some time before they flatten out. Not sure about what moisture they recommend
  24. Coop

    Veneer Pieces

    A neighbor that worked with antiques recently passed away and his wife gave me these pieces. She said he bought these years ago and never used them. They have been stored in a non tempered shed. If I were to guess, I’d say walnut. I’ve never done veneering before but I hate to see these go to waste so may try it. Given the history, should anything be done to these before I unroll them like hydrate them?
  25. Jamie

    Welcome Toolman!

    Welcome! Glad you have joined this great group
  26. Welcome to the forums! Looking forward to seeing your work!
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