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  1. Today
  2. With what little knowledge I have about airflow, derived from the restaurant business, exhaust hood and cooking appliance grease removal, I’m thinking that I have way to many openings in my ts base for my dc system. Path of least resistance. I even put duct tape in the corners of the base to fill as many openings as possible but to no avail.
  3. The issue with the zci is that they don't allow any airflow around the blade. Since that's the source of all the dust, if there's no air flow you get a build up of dust in the box. For what it's worth, I have the shroud on my saw and my bin still fills up. I personally think it's a design flaw as the blade shroud is piped directly to the DC and there's no collection in the box. I'm actually considering a redesign on my saw's DC to see if I can improve that flaw.
  4. The problem is that the DC doesn’t have enough suction to pull all the dust from the “large” area inside the cabinet. As Chet mentioned that is why a lot of newer saws have a shroud around the blade going to the dust port. Another problem is that most cabinet saws aren’t air tight, so that also contributes to the problem. If there was a way to create a shroud you could see improvement. With a ZCI and shroud collection should be good. My saw is a contractor saw with a 2 1/2” port, using a shop vac does a decent job, purely because they put a shroud around blade and port. However I sti
  5. Jamie, I feel better about my less than adequate dc on my Jet ts now. But in reality, the cabinet of my ts is a dc as the dust never seems to make it’s way to the dc system. Kev, regarding your comment on the zci, I probably don’t understand all I know about air flow but my problem and appears as Jamie’s as well, the dust is getting into the cabinet but not into my dc hose via the port. I bet 80% never makes it into my dc system from the ts. The jointer, bs and drum sander all work great. Don’t mean to hj your thread but maybe someone has an answer to our problem.
  6. Yesterday
  7. My PM has the shroud as well. Zero clearance inserts don't help with DC either. They restrict the air flow inside the machine. I usually make sure there's at least one big finger hole in my inserts. In reality, they should probably have 2.
  8. The newer saws seem to be adding a shroud around the blade to better direct the dust. At least that is what the SawStop has and I thing the newer modes of Powermatic has it also. I am with you, I wouldn't be in a real hurry to drill into my saw top.
  9. Thanks @Kev Im a little late to this but happy Father’s Day to you all! Hopefully you all got a little spoiled!
  10. Plywood parts all cut to size, my neighbor bought the kreg rip cut track and had me try it out for him. Only made a handful of cuts with it, it worked......ok. Not over impressed but not thinking it was a complete waste of money. Should say all the 3/4 ply is cut to size. Haven’t started on the 1/2 which is the cabinet backs and drawer bottoms. Set the power feeder up to assist with the dados and rabbit cuts. Dust collection pipe was in the way for the taller cabinets, happy it’s on wheels to slide it back and gain the clearance. I didn’t get any pictures of the ca
  11. Last week
  12. Good example of "where there is a will, there is a way".
  13. Kev

    Kreg ACS

    No, far from it!
  14. Coop

    Kreg ACS

    DAMN expensive day! I didn’t realize the versatility of the track saw. I thought it only useful for breaking down ply.
  15. Thanks Kev. I’m sure it was a rough one for you. Happy Father’s Day to all.
  16. To all the dads, a happy Father's Day to you!
  17. The Lexel does a good job keeping the panels in place. To be on the safe side, I will pin nail them in the center, from the backside, to the rails.
  18. Fortunately/unfortunately yeah. Had it been cherry, it would have been an accent. 😀
  19. My next objective is to mate the bottom with the top. The very bottom piece of the top, is a 4” wide piece of 3/4” ply banded with the poplar. I will add a similar thickness piece to the top of the bottom section, that will fit inside the top section to keep them in alignment.
  20. That dark spot will go away with paint...
  21. I cut the panels today and glued up the doors. Somehow or another I was able to cut some shims, miked to exactly 1/16” (not shown). With a little hand plane adjustment, I should be ok. Pictured are the doors just sitting in place. My next challenge after fine tuning are the euro style hinges. The dark area about midway on the right door is not space but the color of the poplar. e
  22. For inset I would build them tight. Leaves you plenty of room to trim. You can still size them to your 1/16" under by increasing your rail and stile width. If you do that just remember to cut your stiles a longer to accommodate that extra rail width.
  23. Shoot for the 1/16th to allow for adjustment room.. You may have to do a small inner chamfer but, the euro hinges usually account for that.
  24. After thought. Probably shoot for 1/8” due to the clearance of the swing of the doors.
  25. Now to build the inset doors with raised panels with limited ( this build) experience. I’m shooting for a 1/16” gap every where and will settle, knock on wood, for 1/8”.
  26. They help hide the pins as well.
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