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Bedroom Armoire


Coop

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The assembly of the carcass went well today. I moved the assembly to the patio for more room and I still have a full sheet of 3/4” ply that I laid across two saw horses for the assembly table. I know most of you guys build the face frame first, then the box but I still can’t wrap my head around that. So, The three piece face frame ( no bottom rail) is in clamps now. My wife swears that this pic looks nothing like what she wants! 🙈

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So guys, is the consensus that a single 36” wide drawer with a two panel drawer front to match the doors be too wide? I can make them two separate side by side but now we are talking less than 18” wide. There will not be a stile between the doors above. 

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I don't have anything that wide, I do have a dresser with 34 inch wide drawers that look and operate fine.  I also have a 150 year old slant front desk with 32 inch wide drawers which still function well.  

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"Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not;  remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." - Epicurus

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@Kev, can you send me a link to the Blum under mount slides that you use? It appears that they make more than one.  I guess it depends on how difficult and how often I plan on using these but the template kit from Rockler is $70. Is this a good idea? 

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14 minutes ago, Coop said:

@Kev, can you send me a link to the Blum under mount slides that you use? It appears that they make more than one.  I guess it depends on how difficult and how often I plan on using these but the template kit from Rockler is $70. Is this a good idea? 

Here's the affiliate link for 15" glides, let me know if you need a different length.  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756FRP19/ref=as_sl_pc_as_ss_li_til?tag=kevswoodwor08-20&linkCode=w00&linkId=a9b55ca5043bc1b464d8116910ea47cf&creativeASIN=B0756FRP19

Skip the jigs..  I have them and don't use them, I'll show you how to do it.  Unless you really want some jigs in which case I'll send you a set..

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Thanks bud! The BLUMOTION is what I was questioning. I have more jigs than the law allows so yeah, I’ll call on you for your expertise. I’m sure I can find a spec sheet on these if I get to that point of the build, prior to the slides arriving. 

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The nicest part about the under mount is that all the drawer faces should be in the exact same spot.  Can make a jig to set the drawer on and figure in your overlay. That’s maybe for more a production setting, but might not be a bad jig for having around. 

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2 minutes ago, Coop said:

As these will be inset with false fronts, does that mean that the surrounding gap is adjustable? 

The Blum glides do have adjustments built in that you're really going to like.

I think Jamie was referring to batching out multiple drawers and doing a jig to account for all your appropriate overlays.  Correct me if I'm wrong @Jamie

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1 minute ago, Kev said:

The Blum glides do have adjustments built in that you're really going to like.

I think Jamie was referring to batching out multiple drawers and doing a jig to account for all your appropriate overlays.  Correct me if I'm wrong @Jamie

You are spot on. I’m thinking production mode instead of building one piece. 
 

@Coop you will like the adjustment on the glides. Pretty simple and easy to adjust. 

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That kinda pisses me off. The contractor that built our add on, furnished cabs with under Blum mount slides that needed gap adjustments. He hired some yahoo to do the corrections and the A Hole removed the drawer fronts and over corrected the situation. Live and learn. 

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Just now, Coop said:

Oh, and on Rockler’s site, I typed in glides and it said no info found. Typed in slides and they popped up. Tomaters or tomatoes! 

That’s just my Iowa dialect, messes everything up! Or maybe it’s being 1/4 Norwegian. 

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8 minutes ago, Coop said:

That kinda pisses me off. The contractor that built our add on, furnished cabs with under Blum mount slides that needed gap adjustments. He hired some yahoo to do the corrections and the A Hole removed the drawer fronts and over corrected the situation. Live and learn. 

Now that's funny!

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1 hour ago, Coop said:

Oh, and on Rockler’s site, I typed in glides and it said no info found. Typed in slides and they popped up. Tomaters or tomatoes! 

I think Rocklers search is pretty close to useless.  You almost need the item or stock number to make it work. Woodcraft isn't much better.

"Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not;  remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." - Epicurus

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I added the face frame and the trim to the top. I still need to add 3/4” thick strips on all four sides of the bottom for it to sit on the drawer base. The drawer base will have similar strips on it’s top that will fit inside these strips to hold it in place to keep it aligned. Hope that makes sense as I’m describing it on the fly! 

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Thanks. I was able to obtain a pdf drawing of this and realized they didn’t use crown molding but used a panel molding and I found this and adapted to it. The piece above the door was done on the router table.

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Apparently I didn’t think this thru entirely. Pictured is the end panel frame for the bottom section. Obviously the inset panels will not line up. Should I shorten the rails and add stiles to the legs, which will be tapered, to make the panels line up? 

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1 hour ago, Coop said:

Yes, there will be a 1/2” ply insert. Not glued yet with dominos. My thinking is that the panels in the bottom end section are wider than the top section and won’t look right. 

When I did the bedroom furniture, I didn't add the sides to the panel frame, I inset them in the legs..

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My concern is the width of the upper panel is not as wide as the bottom panel will be and their vertical lines will not line up. The upper panel is inset  into the rails and stiles and therefore flush with the inside of the case. There is a 3/4” bottom on the upper that extends out 3/8” on the front and two sides and the will be a 3/4” top on the bottom section that extends out  3/8” further. This may break up the panels not being in alignment. 

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2 hours ago, Coop said:

My concern is the width of the upper panel is not as wide as the bottom panel will be and their vertical lines will not line up. The upper panel is inset  into the rails and stiles and therefore flush with the inside of the case. There is a 3/4” bottom on the upper that extends out 3/8” on the front and two sides and the will be a 3/4” top on the bottom section that extends out  3/8” further. This may break up the panels not being in alignment. 

Why not just center them all and then glue on the make up pieces needed on the inside like I did if you need them?

Just trying to wrap my head around what you're doing..  I'm still not completely grasping it..

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I think the confusion lies around my pic showing to two together. Here is the top part with a block under it, just to get it off the floor.

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And this will be the side of the bottom portion and it will receive a panel. The sides of the two panels will not line up vertically. If it looks two bad, I can always go back to the bottom one and glue in some stiles over the ply panel. Probably still confusing?

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8 minutes ago, Coop said:

I think the confusion lies around my pic showing to two together. Here is the top part with a block under it, just to get it off the floor.

And this will be the side of the bottom portion and it will receive a panel. The sides of the two panels will not line up vertically. If it looks two bad, I can always go back to the bottom one and glue in some stiles over the ply panel. Probably still confusing?

 

 

 

A little..lol

I still think you sink the panel into the legs and add some fake stiles to the outside to get them in line if they're even needed.

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