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Everything posted by Coop

  1. Coop

    Kreg ACS

    DAMN expensive day! I didn’t realize the versatility of the track saw. I thought it only useful for breaking down ply.
  2. Thanks Kev. I’m sure it was a rough one for you. Happy Father’s Day to all.
  3. The Lexel does a good job keeping the panels in place. To be on the safe side, I will pin nail them in the center, from the backside, to the rails.
  4. Fortunately/unfortunately yeah. Had it been cherry, it would have been an accent. 😀
  5. My next objective is to mate the bottom with the top. The very bottom piece of the top, is a 4” wide piece of 3/4” ply banded with the poplar. I will add a similar thickness piece to the top of the bottom section, that will fit inside the top section to keep them in alignment.
  6. I cut the panels today and glued up the doors. Somehow or another I was able to cut some shims, miked to exactly 1/16” (not shown). With a little hand plane adjustment, I should be ok. Pictured are the doors just sitting in place. My next challenge after fine tuning are the euro style hinges. The dark area about midway on the right door is not space but the color of the poplar. e
  7. After thought. Probably shoot for 1/8” due to the clearance of the swing of the doors.
  8. Now to build the inset doors with raised panels with limited ( this build) experience. I’m shooting for a 1/16” gap every where and will settle, knock on wood, for 1/8”.
  9. Probably a 1/4” lip on the bottom of the shelf will give it visual strength as well. Good idea! Thanks
  10. 1/4” is what I drilled. I can’t see anything going on these shelves, heavier than the shelves themselves. Probably bed sheets, etc.
  11. 👍 Go back and read the edited part.
  12. I chose the black barrel type hinges as that’s what the original hinges looked like and it’s going to be painted/antiqued and figured that’s what wifey would want. When given the choice, she chose the euro hinges. I quit trying to second guess! Soft close Blum euro hinges bought today with no instructions. What do people without the net do? On a side note, there will be two adjustable shelves in addition to the one fixed shelf. I have just enough 3/4” ply to make these with 1” hardwood banding on the two long sides. However, in doing so, the grain on the top and bottom will be running fr
  13. And I see that Blum makes a soft close euro hinge. Before assembly, I will weigh the parts and call Blum with the dimensions to see how many per door I will need. Thanks!
  14. Anyone know of some good hinges for inset doors? I’m looking at these. Don’t know yet what the gap is between the door and face frame with these. The doors are 51” tall by 18” wide each and will be 3/4” thick. Thinking of using 3 per door. https://www.rockler.com/ball-tip-full-back-to-back-wrap-around-inset-hinges
  15. No apology offered, even after mentioning the drive, and the mgr was the guy that helped me.
  16. Thanks! I back cut them so that the front and back are flush with both sides of the rails and stiles.
  17. I bought a 3/8” spiral upcut router bit and used it in with my Rockler box joint cutting jig and it worked great on the 5/8” maple drawer sides. I mounted the Blum undermount slides to the case and went to mount the the two pieces to the underside of the drawer only to discover that their were two left hand units instead of a right and left. I drove 2 hours round trip back to Rockler to get the right one. The install was way easier than I anticipated, thanks to Kev’s video. As the doors will have raised panels, I am making the one wide drawer to have matching panels on a fals
  18. Both will be inset. Just sharpened my hand plane blades in anticipation. Looking forward to the challenge.
  19. Will definitely be a false front, just not sure of an inset or overlay. Got to give some thought as to how to make a dual raised panel false front.
  20. The drawer will be one wide one using the Blum under mount slides. Those that have followed will see that the doors above will be raised panels. As I would like to continue the door design to the drawers, I’m thinking dual raised panels with a stile between the two panels for the drawer front. Not sure yet if it would be better to do an overlay drawer front or an inset. Overlay would definitely be easier. Both will require false fronts. I’ve done some research and don’t find a raised panel, false front drawer, especially with two panels. I guess I had better put the thinking cap on before goin
  21. Never gone beyond 1/2” so we’ll see.
  22. My go to is the Rockler on the router table with a good bit and the brass spacer blocks and test pieces, it’s hard to go wrong. Never tried them on the ts.
  23. Yep, square above all! That’s what I like about box joints. Looks like crap on ply but with hardwood, close to dt’s.
  24. I’m pushing my luck on a 37” wide drawer so I will go with the 5/8”. Darn shame to mill a piece of 4/4 maple to 5/8”! From what I can tell, the initial pic of the whitish antiqued “goal”, the drawer front is simply a piece of ply or other, built out with store bought trim. My doors will be solid wood, raised panels and I would like the drawer front to be the same. I’m thinking of making the raised panels and gluing them to the false front. This again will be one wide drawer. Opinions?
  25. No sir, it will be Friday or later before I start on the drawer build. Thanks for the offer. I will be using box joints for the drawer joinery. What kind of joinery did you use on the night stand drawers?
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