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Master Bedroom Dresser


Kev

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Is this for you bedroom, guest bedroom or a commission?  I find that there are to many drawers, personally I would remove 1 drawer to allow for the bottom to be deeper.  What is going to be stored on the top?  Again, just my opinion, but it is a little distracting and outside of placing photos or other items, doesn't seem to be very functional.  You could do a killer job on the bottom, but the eye will naturally be drawn to the top, and there isn't a lot that will pop.  Sorry if I'm being to critical.

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47 minutes ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said:

Is this for you bedroom, guest bedroom or a commission?  I find that there are to many drawers, personally I would remove 1 drawer to allow for the bottom to be deeper.  What is going to be stored on the top?  Again, just my opinion, but it is a little distracting and outside of placing photos or other items, doesn't seem to be very functional.  You could do a killer job on the bottom, but the eye will naturally be drawn to the top, and there isn't a lot that will pop.  Sorry if I'm being to critical.

Lots packed in there, I try to get them all..  And I do appreciate the feedback!

1.  My bedroom.

2.  We need a lot of drawer space.  The bed we're giving up is littered with them and we still have 2 dressers.  The bottom 2 drawers on each side are 9" deep so, pretty much as deep as we need.  This will replace 2 free standing dressers that we have now.  Also, what's not shown is a future build that will incorporate a corner sitting bench off of one end that will also house a pair of filing cabinets.

3. The top section will actually have a set of doors that cover that center section.  This area will house the house printer, paper, and misc supplies.  The rest of the shelving is for decorative type things.

One detail left out..  Will all be African Mahogany.

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6 minutes ago, Kev said:

Lots packed in there, I try to get them all..  And I do appreciate the feedback!

1.  My bedroom.

2.  We need a lot of drawer space.  The bed we're giving up is littered with them and we still have 2 dressers.  The bottom 2 drawers on each side are 9" deep so, pretty much as deep as we need.  This will replace 2 free standing dressers that we have now.  Also, what's not shown is a future build that will incorporate a corner sitting bench off of one end that will also house a pair of filing cabinets.

3. The top section will actually have a set of doors that cover that center section.  This area will house the house printer, paper, and misc supplies.  The rest of the shelving is for decorative type things.

One detail left out..  Will all be African Mahogany.

Adding the doors to the top section will change the look completely.  Look forward to seeing it come to fruition.  Is the Mahogany from Spanky or usual HW dealer?

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5 minutes ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said:

Adding the doors to the top section will change the look completely.  Look forward to seeing it come to fruition.  Is the Mahogany from Spanky or usual HW dealer?

Local HW dealer..  Afraid Spanky only deals with domestics...

With that said, the secondary material will most likely be maple.  I may end up using some of his stuff on this project but, it's too pretty to be a secondary wood...lol

Drawers will all be 1/2 blind DTs I think with incorporated drawer fronts and Blum under mount glides.

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This is going to be bitchin! Bryan, think about it, someone with less of a waist line less than me could fit into a 9” drawer?. Looking forward to the build, especially the half blind

Did Mel help on the drawings? 

Edited by Coop
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3 minutes ago, Coop said:

This is going to be bitchin! Bryan, think about it, someone with less of a waist line less than me could fit into a 9” drawer?. Looking forward to the build, especially the half blind

Did Mel help on the drawings? 

No..  I did this drawing in Sketchup to give myself a basic plan to follow..  Once I actually get through the build, I ask Mark to produce the plans in his normal awesome fashion!

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That will be a big project I’m looking forward to it. With the under mount slides will you need divider between all the drawers to mount the hardware to?  The doors on the upper pieces will you use normal butt hinges? I think knife hinges would be cool add on an you could produce a video only on the install of them

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1 hour ago, Tmize said:

That will be a big project I’m looking forward to it. With the under mount slides will you need divider between all the drawers to mount the hardware to?  The doors on the upper pieces will you use normal butt hinges? I think knife hinges would be cool add on an you could produce a video only on the install of them

Yes, there will need to be webframes in each section to not only support the hardware but, add some rigidity to the piece as well.

The doors will be fairly decent size and have a little weight to them.  I'm just not sure that knife hinges are the right choice here.  I will most likely either go with Blum euro soft close or some nice Brusso butt hinges.  There may also be a pull out for the printer.  I don't really need it for the current printer but, we're trying to think ahead as printers seem to only last a couple years for us before we have to replace it.  So, this area is already oversized with the future in mind.

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4 hours ago, Kev said:

we're trying to think ahead as printers seem to only last a couple years for us before we have to replace it.

Off topic here.  I got tired of this merry go round.  The last printer I purchased I got away from the ink jet and went with a laser jet.  I have had it for about 5 years and it just keeps chugging along.  The other plus it the toner is way cheaper then ink.  High yield cartridge cost me $55 prints close to 3000 pages.  Last time I replaced it was April of 2018 and there is no clogging of ink nozzles.

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"Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not;  remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." - Epicurus

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7 hours ago, Kev said:

 

The doors will be fairly decent size and have a little weight to them.  I'm just not sure that knife hinges are the right choice here.  I will most likely either go with Blum euro soft close or some nice Brusso butt hinges.  

Ok I was thinking the door would be smaller like 26” tall x 14” wide. Nice choices 

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2 minutes ago, Tmize said:

Ok I was thinking the door would be smaller like 26” tall x 14” wide. Nice choices 

It should be close to that size..  I just think that's kind of maxing out the capacity of knife hinges..  They just seem so delicate..

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Ok, I've moved this up to the "current project" as this is what I'm working on next..

I've ordered 16/4 material for the legs as well as 1/2" mahogany ply for the side and back panels.

Additionally, after looking at the drawing for a few days, I decided that I didn't like the bottom rail.  Was just a little to "blocky" for my taste..  So, I went back to Sketchup to refine that one part a bit and this is what I came up with..  Just a subtle curve with the center feet integrated into the rail itself.  This will end up being pretty wasteful of material but, overall, I just think it's a better look..

572223654_BottomRail.jpg.0086269dd3ac3004fcf35749bde609fc.jpg

Pretty sure I have a couple chunks of 8/4 African Mahogany in the shop so, I'll probably start building this rail today...

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4 hours ago, Kev said:

Ok, I've moved this up to the "current project" as this is what I'm working on next..

I've ordered 16/4 material for the legs as well as 1/2" mahogany ply for the side and back panels.

Additionally, after looking at the drawing for a few days, I decided that I didn't like the bottom rail.  Was just a little to "blocky" for my taste..  So, I went back to Sketchup to refine that one part a bit and this is what I came up with..  Just a subtle curve with the center feet integrated into the rail itself.  This will end up being pretty wasteful of material but, overall, I just think it's a better look..

572223654_BottomRail.jpg.0086269dd3ac3004fcf35749bde609fc.jpg

Pretty sure I have a couple chunks of 8/4 African Mahogany in the shop so, I'll probably start building this rail today...

I really like the look of that! That subtle curve will add quite a bit of interest.  Good idea on making it all one piece, dont believe I've ever seen anything done like that.

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6 hours ago, Kev said:

Just a subtle curve with the center feet integrated into the rail itself.

Not to poop on the party but isn't there some potential of developing a crack where the grain at the bottom of the apron runs through the legs once the whole thing takes the load of the rest of the cabinet.

Wouldn't It be better to have the legs made separate and after being attached to the apron, shape the curve of the apron and legs to match?

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"Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not;  remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." - Epicurus

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Just now, Chet said:

Not to poop on the party but isn't there some potential of developing a crack where the grain at the bottom of the apron runs through the legs once the whole thing takes the load of the rest of the cabinet.

Wouldn't It be better to have the legs made separate and after being attached to the apron, shape the curve of the apron and legs to match?

Actually, I think just the opposite since it's all one piece.  There will be supports in the back in the same locations and probably some connection between the front and the back to distribute the load.  I haven't worked out that detail yet but, that's where my brain is going...lol. Plus, it's an 8/4 beefy rail!

Front rail is built..  Only sanded to 120 at this point and none of the edges have been softened either.  There's still joinery work to doll

IMG_0912.thumb.jpeg.a902e0d5b38ddcd657ed51dfbd10c39a.jpeg

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Well, I'm a little bummed out!  Got a call on Tuesday that my local HW dealer couldn't get any 16/4 African Mahogany.  So, Wednesday morning I reached out to Bell Forest who also said they couldn't get any 16/4 but, if I was willing to wait a few weeks they could get 12/4.  12/4 probably would have been fine as I think the legs on this one are a bit too beefy anyway but, 2 or 3 weeks out I just couldn't do..

So, looks like I'll be gluing up 8/4 to get my legs which I was trying to avoid.  I went to my HW dealer this morning to get some 8/4 and, just my luck, they had exactly 3 boards in 8/4 so, not much of a selection!

I'll go ahead and mill them up and see what's there but, I'm not holding my breath!

On another note, I'm thinking about another design change.  I'm considering adding a top rail with a curve.  A few reasons why...

  1. Added strength to a piece this size
  2. Good structure for the center dividers
  3. By adding a curved top drawer front, it will help break up the blocky look.

The down side....  I'll need more 8/4...lol

Thoughts?  I still have to draw this out in Sketchup.

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6 hours ago, Kev said:

So, looks like I'll be gluing up 8/4 to get my legs

I have been doing this a few time.  Glue up your legs then glue a thin, 1/8 or less veneer to the glue line side.  Then chamfer the veneer ever so slightly and I defy any one other then you can tell.  It looks great.

IMG_0045.thumb.jpg.a8737c073aef979ab1c4031806e67e67.jpg

 

IMG_0046.thumb.jpg.43ee8a58e10e774b70b11236715ebaa9.jpg

Those top drawers are going to look cool.  Nice touch.

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"Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not;  remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." - Epicurus

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