Chet

In my un-solicited, un-scientific and un-professionally trained opinion, shellac made from flakes goes on nicer and looks better then out of the can. And as mentioned above flakes store real well and you just need a small can of Denatured Alcohol to make an emergency batch. The flake made stuff drys faster then the canned stuff. This is the cheapest place have found. Pretty fast on the ship too. https://wellermart.com

Would have been a good time for some garnet shellac. By the time you wiped it on the forth shelf, you could have sanded and sprayed the first. Just for the future thought, you can keep the flakes in a air tight container like a mason jar, in a cool, dark location and they last a long, long time.

We'll be the judge of that, lol.

I don't have anything that wide, I do have a dresser with 34 inch wide drawers that look and operate fine. I also have a 150 year old slant front desk with 32 inch wide drawers which still function well.

Thats a bummer abut the cutters being off. When I was doing my kitchen doors recently I brain farted and didn't allow for the tongue on the rails. It worked out where each set went down one size and I had to make new ones for the smallest sets of rails. I number on the end grain then once I have the joint cut I start labeling the tenon and mortises. I have gotten pretty good at writing legibly inside a mortise. I use a number and letter on everything, i.e. 1a, 1b, 2a, 2b, so matting mortise and tenons will both say 1a. And like you said it is a matter of coming up with your system.

Thats a nice find Jamie. I wonder if you new machine was dusty because of being hocked up to a less the proper dust collector.

I don't play but I understand the number one rule in golf is you always allow bears and gators to play through.

Small projects can be done with rattle can products.

I am sure you meant pre-finished. This is something that I have started to had to my notes as I go along. There were a number of things on my last project that I pre-finished and was really glad I did.

I can't think of any process that would make me want to plunge cut on a TS, it just seems like a process that would do nothing but create an open opportunity for a kick back. My choices, in order of preference, would be hand held router with my two fences, plunge on the router table or a rabbet and then a fill strip on the inside like you did with your bathroom door project.

You showed it in the Chest of Drawers and the Desk was also the same wasn't it. I would think referencing would be fine especially given the fact that it is all part of a big project for the same room.

Why? If you have enough stuff to make it three, why not do it. Don't start cutting back on the detail now. If you make it, people will watch it. 😄

That Is a great Poem I have one serious complaint about Memorial Day. It bothers me beyond words I can us on the forum that so many companies use Memorial Day as a reason to by their products. I wish there was more reverence connected with the day.

I got tired of moving and knocking over smaller pieces of ply to get to the other so I culled the pile. I got too heavy handed, a month latter had to cut some off a large piece to make a jig for the nightstand project. Cleaning out the wood racks can be a real Catch 22.

Yea, where you are looks like a good place to split the videos by making it two not one and like Bryan said doing two would give you a video in your cache if the next trip needs it. I think you have some nice detail in the list above I think the 15 minutes of each two videos will go by pretty quick for the viewer.

Can I ask just briefly, What is in this video and what would be in the second. Are these two videos the only two pertaining to the actual construction of the night stands. Milling if I remember is a totally separate video.

Yea I am sure there is some tradition but tradition can be a good thing. I have a Queen Anne slant front desk sitting behind me that is 150 years old and it has panels not frames. As far as a lot of extra work, I guess, but I enjoy the journey with things like this and making dovetail drawer slides so I don't think of it as a lot of extra work. But bottom line is this, I am pretty sure that my shop teacher has passed but where ever he may be, if he heard me call what you are doing anything else then a dust panel he would still give me an F

My thinking is this. Non of us want to pay more then we have to for lumber, but you wouldn't be able to buy the quality you are going to build for $400.

It would change the weight, especially the bigger the piece gets.

My ninth grade shop teacher was real adamant about stuff like this so maybe this is why I remember it. What Kev is doing is called a dust panel because it is a solid panel. A dust frame is like a web frame with a thin panel in it, like a frame and panel door is constructed. Of course this was back in the sixties so things could have changes by now.

I always make extra pieces but the only time I need them is when I fail to make extra pieces.

Red oak is cheaper then a twisted 2 X 4.

I think the modern day finishing process can be pretty simple. I think people make there finishing process more difficult then it has to be because they've heard others go through these ornate processes. Modern finish products have made life easier if you let them. If you are doing a period piece then you might want to stick to a finish process that matches that time. If your making a nice piece for your personal use then just keep it simple. Marc has evolved over the years but every finish process he goes to is simple and easy to do. Phillip Morley almost always uses Conversion Varnish because it looks good, is durable and easy to use. I think, because like you said, there is a lot out there that the best you can do is start by saying, there is a lot out there on finishing but what I am going to show is a simple, durable finish, that looks nice on most any project. When you keep in mind new people starting out on the finish process simple is king. One thing that I might toss out there is in your finish process you use ARS first, I use de-waxed shellac for the same purpose. This can be a plus in humid areas because you won't have to wait as long for it to dry as you would with ARS. If you are top coating with a water borne finish it has to be de-waxed. Actually de-waxed is better for almost all because you can put anything on top of it, even paint. I use blonde shellac on woods that will darken over time like cherry and sapele and I use garnet shellac on woods like walnut that tend to lighten over time.

When I did my kitchen I primed the maple, I wanted to make sure the paint bonds

That is what I had said earlier. I suggested looking into having the shelf space between the two drawers but hat if you did that you would have a second web frame which would reduce the height of the opening of the shelf.