Chet

That came out real nice Coop. Way nicer then the ones that show up on your Etsy link.

This isn't just drum sanders. A lot of power tools are in short supply, actually a lot of everything is back ordered. I just passed week four waiting for a garage door.

That's coming out real nice Jamie.

Its just a snug fit in the miter slot.

Yes.

This is mine - it is totally dedicated to small parts and 45°, nothing else. Because when you are dealing the blade at 45° it is more exposed no matter what height I put a boxed blade guard on the back and a plexiglass piece across the business end on top, this way you can see your work but there is something there to keep your fingers from the blade. There is a tee track and stop block with a hold down.

Thank you.

I use one of these quite often Starrett Protractor Pretty handy and I think I have more then gotten my money's worth. Really helpful for baseboard on wonky wall corners. It gives you the angle for a single cut or two cuts.

Stupid things I remember from coaching softball for 20 years. The home plate has three 90° angles A,B & D in Bob's diagram and two 135° angles E & C according to the rule book description.

I am a fan of cock beading, I like the look but I think in this case with the other details and the recessed top drawer that it would get to looking too busy. I think I am going to just ease th hedges so they aren't sharp to the touch and leave it at that.

I work on getting the gapping on my drawer fronts. I was looking for about 1/16 all the way around and then I was going to do a real small chamfer on all four edges. But as it turns out I had too many thumbs on each hand today and managed to drop and ding the edges on three of the six drawer fronts on the edge of my work bench. 😟 The fibers were to damaged to steam out on two so I ended up having to have a gap that ended up being a heavy 3/32. Now I would be afraid that a chamfer would make the gaps look to big so I think I am going to be stuck with just easing the edges with some sand paper and calling it good. This is what I have right now, nothing has been done to ease anything so far. Whats the group here think?

I will do that when I get a chance.

Thought about it a little bit but as these are nightstands we generally have a book or two laying on top and my bible is always on one corner so I need some flat surface area.

This is the one I use Enduro-VAR But it has gone way up in price, I may have to re-think this. I may end up going with High Performance.

How come you don't have the gallons of General Finishes High Performance and Endro-Var listed. Don't you use that stuff?

Not a lot to show today, I just finished up a lot of hand sanding. After that I did the pyramids of the faux through mortises. I didn't do a good job of documenting this process but I will try to explain. I have found that the downward cut on my miter saw seems to do a better job of this then cross cutting on the table saw. I don't know why but it does. I also think that it helps to have a Miter saw that doesn't have any real blade deflection and a saw that stays tuned up. I attach a scrap of wood to the fence on my miter saw, set the miter to 22.5° and make a cut. Then line up the inside edge of you stock with the outside edge of the cut you just made on you sacrificial piece. Then I used a screw clamp as a stop block. From here you simple make a cut, rotate the stock toward the fence make a cut and continue until you have done all four sides. Then I take it to the table saw and using the miter gauge cut it a 1/4" long from the bottom edge of the pyramid. Here they are in place. Closer view.

You are getting some really nice colors in that top. I said it before and I think it got lost but I think it is a real plus that you left the sap wood alone, to many times people think you have to remove it. Well done.

Shouldn't be too hard to move with all the shortages in the supply lines right now.

Wow Bryan are you giving up the sanding stage on your projects? Are you going the hand plane route?

On the nightstands that I am copying the thru tenons are fake and then to top it off there is no top apron either so that makes them just dumb. I drew them in because they where on the originals but never really planned to incorporate them. They are edge grain to edge grain but I did put in a few small floating mortises just cuz. The legs are 2 inches square the aprons are 3/4" and I just used floating tenons with mortises.

Next thing I did was get the top on and trimmed it out with some shop made molding and added a banding detail around the case at the base and below the top drawer. There is one other detail I am adding. I am doing a faux through tenon with a pyramid design on top on the from two legs. I removed most of the waste with a forstner bit. Then I clamped my template and routed out the rest. Then leaving the template in place, I cleaned up the corners with a chisel. and it left me with this on the two front corners. By this time in the day I didn't feel like tackling the pyramids so I finished the day by spending an hour and a half hand sanding all the details on one of the nightstands... fun stuff,🙄 Shoptalk Live podcast helped it go a little better.

You didn't show the drawer construction, which is fine, I was just curious how you ended up doing the file drawers. Did you do them for hanging files or just a file size box?

Kev's not old enough to have to worry about these things, but I hear you Coop.

Is this were we ask - how do you know all of this? Lol.

Isn't Montana's humidity pretty consistent? I would think you would be dealing with pretty small movements most times.