Chet

I used that aluminum tape on mine but on a joint were gravity and weight come in to play I used a couple of self tapping screws. I kept them pretty short just enough to help but I didn't want them going all the way through to the inside. Where I did use screws, I did the screws first so the tape would go over them.

You did a great job on this Jamie. Top to bottom the whole design goes together well.

At least he didn't say you might want to sit down.

I wonder if you couldn't get away with something as simple 1 1/2" high X 3/4" thick with a fairly heavy chamfer round the top edge. Come up with a clean un-assuming design and then two god awful designs and then pray that she picks right.

I used to do this but over the past 6 years I have finally got myself to stop pointing stuff out. What finally got me on the right path was realizing that not only do they not notice the mistakes they also don't notice the fine detail we put into projects. People just see the whole piece. And on that note, yesterday I was gluing on stop blocks for the drawers in the nightstands. Just 3/4 inch square blocks. When I took th spring clamps off I had glued one on with the grain turned 90° to all the rest. With the back on and drawers in you won't be able to see it, even with the drawer out you probable couldn't tell. But thinking about it, its like an itch you can't scratch. I think I will end up prying it off and doing a new one.

Are you talking about when someone buys one of you pieces in an antique store decades from now, takes it home and paints it. Lol

I remember Brendon talking about that but if I have to have a computer program help me make a cutting board I just going to spend the program money on a nice burn pit.🤯

Yea, I like full kerf blades myself.

I was going t say this and she mentioned in her first series on Marc's guild a specific make and pen tip that see liked. The branding iron that I got this past Christmas has done well so far it takes about ten minutes to warm up.

I think If I ever have to replace my 3 Freud blades, besides Freud, I think Amana would be on the list of ones to look at.

If I remember right doesn't Jamie have a shaper for those big boy bits.

I use a flush trim saw and then sand.

What is you reference point and how do you line it up and make sure it is identical? To me the stop block is the reference and it is static so it has little chance of moving even a hair from cut to cut.

This isn't for the grain continuity, that is something that I lay out right after I re-saw my piece for the box sides and ends. That way I don't have to worry about getting them mixed up and then trying to figure out the right order and which side goes out all over again. Using the stop block for every miter cut is more about the best possible accuracy of your four pieces in relation to each other. Being off by the thickness of a heavy pencil line on a big project like cabinets or furniture pieces won't even show up, but on a small box with sides 3/8 of an inch or less in thickness that difference of a pencil line is going to show up almost immediately.

I set my stop block for both cuts, this way they are both absolutely the same. I set my stop block, cut both miters of the front and back pieces, then reset the stop block and cut the miters of both end pieces.

There are some non Nordfab metal wyes out there that would have tied in better than PVC, Yes?

Is the table height about the same as the Griz? Higher, Lower?

I forgot where I got mine but Rockler carries them. Bandsaw Finishing Stone Amazon might have them also. I think I may have purchased mine through Highland with a blade order. I have seen people using their sharpening stone for this but I don't think I would do that for a number of reasons. You are correct in its usage. Your motion is as if your are rounding the back edge of the blade. mainly you are clearing burrs and easing the edges. I have heard where this is supposed to help with blade tracking also.

But they have raised their prices by 16%. 16% of what ever your total is isn't a surcharge thats a price increase. Price increases happen, why label it a surcharge. I would just a soon have one price, no surcharge, no handling fees, just give me my bottom line with out the hokus pokus to try and make me feel okay about the price.

Now that you are mostly set in the shop this isn't the dumbest idea. Maybe not the mortgage but you could certainly upgrade some of the final tools. Or buy Robin a new long arm. Which ever gets you better milage.

No I still have the original and I have been happy with them, they haven't given me any reason to want to change. You get some sparks every once in a while, especially doing curve work but that is normal. I read that somewhere in the manual or on Laguna's website in a Q & A. I do use this stone on a stick thing to round over the back edges of a new blade.

I use the wood slicer blades from Highland Woodworking. They have served me well and they seem to get here pretty quickly considering they come from Georgia to California in four or five days. I have called them a couple of times and if I remember they can tell you overt the phone when you should get your order. The 1412 takes 115" is the 14Bx the same?

I have noticed on some amazon deliveries that they will tell you how many stops before they get to you, a long with an active map that shows where the driver is presently.

I thought you were getting the 14Bx with the brake.

The way I always think of it, We couldn't afford to buy the quality of furniture I have made for my house if we bought it on the open market. So actually we have nicer stuff for less money. Kev, is this going to be a king bed?