Chet

I watch this on YouTube, on the forum post and on my iPhone, everything was fine. I was using Apple's newest desktop Mac and an older iPhone probably 3 years old.

The finish is General Finishes High Performance. It was close, I had just a little left in the can, about a 1/4" in the bottom. I was letting my supply run down because I want to give Target Coatings WB Conversion Varnish a try. Kathy is having some on going challenges after the hip surgery on her other hip. At this point she doesn't have any feeling in her foot which is make the physical therapy a slow process. We saw her surgeon last week and after conferring with the neurologist they believe she has a pinched nerve somewhere between her lower back and lower leg. We are going for an MRI next Wednesday.

This has been on my list of things I wanted to build for a long time. I started it back in April sometime but because of some medical issues here in the household I have only been able to work on it in bits and starts, but finally finished it yesterday. It's made from white oak, the hardware was purchased from Gerstner & Sons. The tool chest that this now sits on I finished late last year. I wanted it to be more robust because of some of the tools that it would hold so it is made out of baltic birch plywood and has mechanical drawer glides. Just some of the pictures I took along the way.

Welcome to the forums. Looking forward to seeing some of your projects.

Yes mine does too. I suspect that the shroud is attached to the trunnion because It also tilts with the blade.

I think there are a couple of things that make some table saws more efficient then others and it may be things that the more recent models have and the price level of the table saw may also dictate whether the saw comes with the feature. On my saw there is a shroud, circled in red in the picture, around my saw blade that is connected directly to the dust port via a hose, red arrows. As you can see though, I too get dust in the bottom of my saw and generally it seems to collect in the upper right hand corner, that's about a years worth showing. Some of this is self inflicted by being lazy and not turning on the dust collection for a single, small cut and there are times I just flat forget to turn the DC on. When I trim just an edge on a work piece then there is dust all over the table top.

If you do the bent lamination, yes you would need a drum sander for the strips but you wouldn't necessarily need the spindle sander, you would be able to sand the curves once they are laminated, by hand.

I don't know as to what tools you have at your disposal but I would either cut the shape on my bandsaw and clean it up back to my line with a spindle sander or a spoke shave, but my personal first choice would be making a form and doing a bent lamination. I think removing the top bearing, even if you can, would be a very unsafe option. If you were to tip your work piece even a thou or two the now exposed top cutting surface of the bit is going to catch on your work and you will end up having a very, very bad day in the shop. I get the heebee jeebee's just thinking about it.😱

That ended up looking great Jamie. Worth the wait for sure.

Lastest post from Marc. I appears that the two $20 capacitors from Amazon fixed what Powermatic said would take $1800 dollars to fix.

He posted it on instagram so you would need to set up an instagram account to see it Coop. Then you would just need to "Follow" Marc to see the post.

Marc had an instagram post about smoke coming out of his 12 inch jointer. It looks like the started capacitor was kaput. He contacted Powermatic and they don't sell just the capacitor they want him to replace the whole motor for $1800😲 ... OH and it is on back order for 90 -120 days.😲😲A motor unavailable seems weird and not willing to sell just the capacitor also weird. He ordered the capacitor from Amazon, $20 bucks. Story to be continued.

I have never tried to chisel plywood. You could probably clean it up with you bandsaw also. Or you don't have to clean it up at all you just need you to pieces to overlap so the edges are flush.

I just did something similar, not 16 inches deep but it was deeper than I could get of my table saw. I did it on my router table. My material was 3/4" thick and I used a 1/2" diameter bit to make my cuts. By using the 1/2" bit it allowed me to flip the pieces, not only to sneak up on the fit but also keep the cut centered. I used a stop block on my fence for depth of cut. Then chiseled to square up the cuts. I did a full size test with some poplar to get everything dialed in. When you hit the stop block, hold the piece securely and turn off the router DON'T try backing it out with the router running.

Great find. I really like mine, I really like the micro adjust for setting up things. I often think about getting the fence for the table saw because of that feature and how easy it makes it to return to an exact fence location. With the slotted inserts the dust collection is top notch with the exception of pattern routing, which I think is always going to be a little messy no matter the setup. When you are cranking the lift up or down and it starts to feel like it is binding, just take the lift out and clean all the threaded parts.

I came real close to buying a couple of sets of those, but ended up just making some. How much were they? If I remember correctly they weren't that much.

I know people will think I am nuts, but I am pretty happy with my total setup, I don't want for much. 😊

Nope, I just wouldn't use it enough to justify having a specialized tool like that.

I wouldn't call reaching out to customer service at Lee Valley a headache. I had a similar situation although only three months had passed. They had a sale on some nice drawer glides because the manufacturer was changing model numbers and so they need to clear out inventory. I ordered 6 sets of 18" for a project down the road. When I finally got to the project I opened the box and found out they were 22", way too long for my needs. I looked at the packing slip and it said 18 so it was a mis-pick on their part. I emailed, them told them that it was my fault for not checking when they arrived and asked if there was any way to still exchange. absolutely no problem. They sent me the 18's along with a shipping label for the 22's. AND apologized for the mis-pick. I am a lefty but I have gotten used to using my low angle jack or a lot of times I use my shoulder plane for shooting.

Looks like heavy duty pro equipment, something that gets used all day everyday. Having a miter saw with a 3 or 4 HP motor in a hobbyist shop is just being able to say you have one. 🤪

At one time I looked into buying a laser engraver for my business. Long story short, I decided to purchase a different format for my work that was less expensive and way more profitable for me. The guy in Drew's link above gives a lot of good information but I will share a couple of things from my research that I had done at the time. I have not seen a diode laser live but what I have seen from videos is that their engraved image doesn't seen to be as crisp as the CO2 lasers. The CO2 machines have a series of mirrors and lens that create a very crisp beam if light kind of like that way a telescope works. If you don't think you will ever do anything with nice detail then this probably won't be of concern. The CO2's are going to be more costly but as far as the quality of work this is going to be one of those times where you get what you pay for. The companies I looked at also sold jigs that made life easier for some jobs. One was a rotary attachment for cylindrical items like a baseball bat or a wine glass or wine bottle. that other was a grid jig for doing multiples of the same item like wooden challenge coins with your Kev's Woodworks logo on them. The other thing that he mentions but just kind of skimmed over is ventilation. This is WAY more important than he would lead you to believe. Opening his garage door and turning on a fan isn't the solution. That like saying you turn on a fan and open a door when milling or sanding but actually worse because not are you only creating particles to inhale but now the oils and resins have been super heated and then thrown into the air for you to breathe. I wouldn't consider anything that didn't have an enclosed cabinet and ventilation system and the ventilation should be discharged to the out side not just blown to the another side of the shop. So when looking at prices you have to allow for other equipment too.

I have the Incra 5000 which is pretty much a panel sled. I have a cross cut sled but haven't dusted it off since getting the 5000. The 5000 has the fence that extends to almost 60 inches, I think, which can be adjusted the same as a miter gauge for angled cuts. The 5000 also has the fall off sled that sits on the other side of the blade which is something that would be easy to make for your shop made panel sleds.

Great work Jamie. I like that you did pyramids on you front leg tenons. That's a detail that really adds to the quality of workmanship.

I think I saw it for sale on craigslist.

That makes it easier on you. It is harder for them to be dis-satisfied with the outcome when it was their preference on the dimensions.