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Coffee Table For The Living Room


Bushwacked

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I’m with you BW. End grain would really stick out. This would be a good suggestion to Festool to make a router jig to fit all of their tenons, so you could cut your own on the long grain. Kind of like a plug cutter. Or find someone with a cnc to cut you one. 

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1 hour ago, Bushwacked said:

 

2) If I were to go down the chisel route, which ones should I look at? I dont mind buying 3-4 or something like a starter pack. Then I will need some stones right? Or some way to sharpen then and to flatten the back of them before using ... right? Or is that not really needed at least for this first use?

            Would the Narex line be good enough? Some good Japanese set out there?

The Narex are good chisels. Considering how much use you have had with them I wouldn’t spend a great deal of money on a set. For the money they are the best dollar for dollar. You can step up to their premium line for not much more money. They are much better handle shape an fit an finish. 
 

Sharpening is extra expensive when first starting out. The way I started out with a cheap Chinese double sided diamond stone. It was 600 grit on one side 1200 on the other. It worked good for awhile. Now for a more permanent starter I would do a Norton two sided water stone. Will last longer an better quality polish. To finish off go to a hobby store a buy a cheap piece of leather scrap an some green honing compound. 
 

Yes flatten the back an polish it up to the same level as the bevel. The narex chisels come with some kind of coating like plastic on the blade it sucks to try a remove. I still have most of it still on my set I have. Also many people have experienced the edge to crumble easily the first couple sharpening but goes away after 3-4 sharpening. From what I’m told it is the heat treating they do to the steel. 

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1 hour ago, Bushwacked said:

so 2 questions ... 

1) Making my own domino, wouldnt that still be end grain on top showing? Am I misunderstanding yall?

2) If I were to go down the chisel route, which ones should I look at? I dont mind buying 3-4 or something like a starter pack. Then I will need some stones right? Or some way to sharpen then and to flatten the back of them before using ... right? Or is that not really needed at least for this first use?

            Would the Narex line be good enough? Some good Japanese set out there?

1) you should be able to get long grain to match the top. It will kind of be trial and error to get the right fit. Keep some dust and super glue close for minor gap filling. 
 

2) narex is a good brand. You will need to flatten the back and sharpen before use. It doesn’t matter how much you spend this will need to be done. The higher the cost generally the less time it takes. The cheapest way is wet dry sandpaper an a piece of glass. If you go the sharpening stone route, go to sharpening supplies dot com.   As for size I would go 1/4”, 1/2” and 3/4” to start. 

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7 hours ago, Bushwacked said:

so 2 questions ... 

1) Making my own domino, wouldnt that still be end grain on top showing? Am I misunderstanding yall?

2) If I were to go down the chisel route, which ones should I look at? I dont mind buying 3-4 or something like a starter pack. Then I will need some stones right? Or some way to sharpen then and to flatten the back of them before using ... right? Or is that not really needed at least for this first use?

            Would the Narex line be good enough? Some good Japanese set out there?

1.  No.  You'd just select face grain as your end.  If it doesn't go all the way through, it just doesn't matter.  For starters, you plan on attaching at that point anyway so, in reality, your patch really only needs to be about 1/4".  Unless you moved the location of the domino in which case you'd need to fill it all but, you would just simply make 2 if you don't have enough length.  The bottom isn't seen so, you don't need to be as critical with how that looks.

2.  I'm still using the Narex chisels and still like them!  Yes, you'd need a way to sharpen.  You could start inexpensively with a double sided water stone (1k and 8k) pretty cheap.  I'd also suggest a honing guide which will cut down on your headaches..lol. Since my kid is selling a bunch of his stuff, I'll see if he wants to move his set up on..

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4 hours ago, Kev said:

1.  No.  You'd just select face grain as your end.  If it doesn't go all the way through, it just doesn't matter.  For starters, you plan on attaching at that point anyway so, in reality, your patch really only needs to be about 1/4".  Unless you moved the location of the domino in which case you'd need to fill it all but, you would just simply make 2 if you don't have enough length.  The bottom isn't seen so, you don't need to be as critical with how that looks.

2.  I'm still using the Narex chisels and still like them!  Yes, you'd need a way to sharpen.  You could start inexpensively with a double sided water stone (1k and 8k) pretty cheap.  I'd also suggest a honing guide which will cut down on your headaches..lol. Since my kid is selling a bunch of his stuff, I'll see if he wants to move his set up on..

Ah, ok ... the domino makes sense now :). I will give that a go and see how I do.

Is your kid getting out of woodworking or just more into power tools? But yes, if he is looking to get rid of things, let me know I might be interested! 

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3 hours ago, Bushwacked said:

Is your kid getting out of woodworking or just more into power tools? But yes, if he is looking to get rid of things, let me know I might be interested! 

Hey's planning on getting married next year and money is tight.  I don't recall what he has, it might just be my old beater chisels..

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3 hours ago, Coop said:

Another thought maybe worth considering, or maybe not? Take a piece of 1/4” thick long grain as Kev mentioned and glue it to the end of your Domino tenon and shape it to fit it.

 

52 minutes ago, Jamie said:

I’d cut a Bow tie or grub it out to a circle and fill with epoxy to make it look like a knot hole. Wouldn’t make it look like a true circle but more of an organic shape. 

 

9 minutes ago, Coop said:

BW, I think we are all skirting the truth. Would it not be better to cut that section out and add on another piece? 

Hah! I mean ... Yes, I could always do that ? Probably the easiest fix would be just that. Just looking for other options since I could practice new techniques. I might have to end up just doing that, but I might piddle around and do a few other things just to try it out since I can always cut it out and rip a new piece. 

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just to prep for finishing ... I am curious on a couple things ..

1) For the top, do I just stain the top and sides, let dry then apply ARS to all of it? (top, bot and sides?)

2) For the aprons, I was going to finish those as well before installing, run a 3/4" piece of tape down the backs where I will install it to the ply, so I can add glue to it.

3) For the ply, Just throwing ARS on it like normal.

 

Once all that is done, then I spray everything with my GF high endurance? 

 

Thoughts on that process of finishing this up once it gets ready?

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22 minutes ago, Bushwacked said:

just to prep for finishing ... I am curious on a couple things ..

1) For the top, do I just stain the top and sides, let dry then apply ARS to all of it? (top, bot and sides?)

2) For the aprons, I was going to finish those as well before installing, run a 3/4" piece of tape down the backs where I will install it to the ply, so I can add glue to it.

3) For the ply, Just throwing ARS on it like normal.

 

Once all that is done, then I spray everything with my GF high endurance? 

 

Thoughts on that process of finishing this up once it gets ready?

Just my 2 worth!

If you're going to stain, I wouldn't bother with ARS.

If you're going to "pre-finish", just protect glue joints with blue tape. 

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9 minutes ago, Kev said:

Just my 2 worth!

If you're going to stain, I wouldn't bother with ARS.

If you're going to "pre-finish", just protect glue joints with blue tape. 

So the only reason I am thinking I "should" prefinish is that if I do not, there will be a lot of raw wood left open to absorb moisture and all of that.

Am I wrong in thinking that? If I do not have to prefinish and could just install and then 1 last finish sanding and then stain/finish, that would be amazing.

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1 minute ago, Bushwacked said:

So the only reason I am thinking I "should" prefinish is that if I do not, there will be a lot of raw wood left open to absorb moisture and all of that.

Am I wrong in thinking that? If I do not have to prefinish and could just install and then 1 last finish sanding and then stain/finish, that would be amazing.

I must be missing something..  What "raw wood" would be left open by not pre-finishing?

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3 minutes ago, Kev said:

I must be missing something..  What "raw wood" would be left open by not pre-finishing?

The bottom of the top, if I dont prefinish, would be left with nothing since it will be screwed down to ply. Then about half of the apron would not be able to get any stain/finish from the ply and up. Is that OK?

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15 minutes ago, Bushwacked said:

The bottom of the top, if I dont prefinish, would be left with nothing since it will be screwed down to ply. Then about half of the apron would not be able to get any stain/finish from the ply and up. Is that OK?

Considering it's an inside piece in a climate controlled space, I would say  it's fine.  I will often times toss one coat of finish on stuff like that but, I don't know that it really helps.  I certainly don't lose sleep if I didn't get a coat of finish in those areas!

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2 minutes ago, Kev said:

Considering it's an inside piece in a climate controlled space, I would say  it's fine.  I will often times toss one coat of finish on stuff like that but, I don't know that it really helps.  I certainly don't lose sleep if I didn't get a coat of finish in those areas!

gotcha ... then I wont work about it when I get there and just assemble then stain/finish as normal. Appreciate the 2nd opinion Kev! 

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7 minutes ago, Coop said:

How did you decide to treat the boo boo? 

not sure yet ... had my wifes brother and their kids come up this weekend so I had 0 time in the shop. For now, I have just put in the domino and glued and cut flush. Just wanted to get rid of the hole first .. I will take a look tomorrow and start thinking of what to do next.

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Got sidetracked with the holidays and #2020, we went ahead and put up christmas stuff already ?

Here everything is, it is finished ...

Aprons on and glued up 

754389916_PhotoNov2384411PM.thumb.jpg.7cc88af7a63b13463ee3de9716e7537c.jpg

 

The biggest gap I had in all 4, I am pretty happy with that. I burnished it (I thihnk is the term) with a screw drivers length part (not sure what to call that .. the circle part not the tip) to round of an mesh everything together and could not tell after that.

1324555232_PhotoNov2384417PM.thumb.jpg.39876dab4545ec0c93ee26525fd2d744.jpg

 

2 coats of stain, went with the provincial stain for GF. Also, sand the legs lightly, and cleaned off with degreaser. Then painted with some canned spray paint from HD. I can find the brand if needed.

1823204019_PhotoNov2420555PM.thumb.jpg.4474f79ec6ed36f27782d9c56db540b9.jpg

 

Installed in its place ... definitely a talking piece now haha. Now one of these years we will get rid of all the hand me down couches that the kids are slowly destroying and it will look/match a lot better in the room.

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As for the whoopsy, I didnt have time to actually correct it as the wife wanted this completed. So I stuck with the domino patch and with the darker stain, you really cant see it unless you look. So it worked out pretty well. I was going to rip it out and redo, but I had orders stating otherwise ? 

 

Finished dimensions ended up being 41 1/2 x 41 1/2 x 15"

 

Here is a couple quick shots of it .. you really cant see it unless you get as close as I did to take the pictures. You can also see the ~1/32 - 1/16" gap around as well ... 

1698591437_Image-1(1).thumb.jpeg.5cf205f2ea9f79dbf7cc798f0f7d1186.jpeg

423913506_Image(1).thumb.jpeg.3f113ecd1166599d79e1d473f8a91d23.jpeg

 

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