Bushwacked Posted October 13, 2020 Share Posted October 13, 2020 Well, the wife has decided my project will be a coffee table for the living room. She likes the simplistic design/look of this one: However I told her that I would not be making something with a pallet wood look. She agreed to it finally .. So I was thinking some knotty alder or oak, and toss a subtle stain on there for a little darker of look. She likes the below colors for it ... as of now: I dont really have a winner in my mind, I think they both would look good. However, the Provincial might be too close to our floor color so it might look funny. My Main question as this is a pretty simple build for the most part ... the apron/wrapping of the wood corners (not sure what to call that) ... Will that cause issues with wood movement? Or would it not be too bad? Overall dimensions of this so far ... shes thinking 40"x40", she wants a square focal piece in there. I have already ordered the steel tube legs as well, ran me $123 on Etsy for 14"x30" pair. I will take a pic of where it would go here in a few Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwacked Posted October 13, 2020 Author Share Posted October 13, 2020 Where that ottoman is now is where this would go. Finally after 5 years we are slowly replacing all the free handmedowns we got when we first moved in haha. was also thinking of possibly putting in a lift in part of the tabletop for some storage ... not sure though on that one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted October 13, 2020 Share Posted October 13, 2020 I like the look of oak but with open grain wood like oak you may want to plan on a grain fill other wise the stain can end up looking pretty harsh. Depending on how you construct the top you could definitely end up with wood movement popping your aprons apart. I think I would use some 3/4 ply as a sub straight. Attach the aprons to the edge of the ply and attach the top from the under side with oblong holes to allow movement. You will still need to leave some gap between the top and side aprons. I would also paint the side facing up on the ply flat black to make any gaps less noticeable. 1 Quote "Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not; remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." - Epicurus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwacked Posted October 13, 2020 Author Share Posted October 13, 2020 (edited) Thanks for the idea on the 3/4 sub straight @Chet ! As for the bottom of the ply, would you do anything with that minus just a coat or 2 of finish? Would you paint it black as well or what? I know not many people outside of woodworks would even care to look underneath lol ... just curious. As far as a gap from the apron .. are you thinking like a 32nd all the way around? or 16th? Edited October 13, 2020 by Bushwacked Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted October 13, 2020 Share Posted October 13, 2020 57 minutes ago, Bushwacked said: Would you paint it black as well I probably would just because I had the black paint out. Like you said no one will see it unless you are prone to throwing wild parties were people end up passed out on the floor. ? 59 minutes ago, Bushwacked said: As far as a gap from the apron .. are you thinking like a 32nd all the way around? or 16th? You really only need the gap on the long grain edges because that is the way the wood expands but I would go with a 1/16 gap all the way around to make it look uniform in appearance. 1 Quote "Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not; remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." - Epicurus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Posted October 14, 2020 Share Posted October 14, 2020 For wood movement I figure a 1/16” per foot of width. You could use quarter sawn to eliminate most of the movement. Not sure if your wife will like the look of it. Would bring a contrast to your floor as well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwacked Posted October 15, 2020 Author Share Posted October 15, 2020 Thanks guys .. will make sure I factor in that for wood movement. Here are the legs I picked up ... going to paint them black or maybe oil rubbed bronze They are 14" H x 30" W x 2" D 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted October 15, 2020 Share Posted October 15, 2020 I would wipe them down with acetone to get rid of any impurities then sand or hit them with a wire brush real well and prime them before painting. 3 Quote "Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not; remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." - Epicurus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwacked Posted October 16, 2020 Author Share Posted October 16, 2020 2 hours ago, Chet said: I would wipe them down with acetone to get rid of any impurities then sand or hit them with a wire brush real well and prime them before painting. what grit do you think I should use to sand? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted October 16, 2020 Share Posted October 16, 2020 8 minutes ago, Bushwacked said: what grit do you think I should use to sand? Without knowing the background of these stands, I'm not sure how the metal and the welds are treated?? Ultimately, you need to make sure you get all the oil and grease off first. Then, just a rough up with some 120 or so to set up for the primer should be fine. Another option for the legs is to have them powder coated. It's not as expensive as you might think and it's much more durable than paint. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tmize Posted October 16, 2020 Share Posted October 16, 2020 My Main question as this is a pretty simple build for the most part ... the apron/wrapping of the wood corners (not sure what to call that) ... Will that cause issues with wood movement? Or would it not be too bad? I was just reading a project build of one Garrett Hack huntboard. The bottom of the case is a floating spline along the depth for wood movement. I got to thinking about the table top you posted. In this case it could be built like frame an panel door. You could just leave a small reveal around the border. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted October 16, 2020 Share Posted October 16, 2020 2 hours ago, Kev said: Ultimately, you need to make sure you get all the oil and grease off first. The acetone should take care of this and Kev is right 120 should do it for sanding. 1 Quote "Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not; remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." - Epicurus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted October 16, 2020 Share Posted October 16, 2020 WD40 and hot water to clean the steel. I still use this combo on my Remington 870 and it’s 50 yo. To attach the metal frame to the wood, I would elongate the holes in the frame to accommodate wood movement, using flat head screws to attach them from below. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted October 16, 2020 Share Posted October 16, 2020 WD40 and hot water to clean the steel. I still use this combo on my Remington 870 and it’s 50 yo. To attach the metal frame to the wood, I would elongate the holes in the frame to accommodate wood movement, using flat head screws to attach them from below. Sorry, just saw the concern of the aprons. Unless it’s for visual only, I don’t think aprons are necessary due to the steel frame. If aprons are a must, perhaps attach them directly to the steel legs and not to the the top? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwacked Posted October 16, 2020 Author Share Posted October 16, 2020 7 hours ago, Coop said: To attach the metal frame to the wood, I would elongate the holes in the frame to accommodate wood movement, using flat head screws to attach them from below. Sorry, just saw the concern of the aprons. Unless it’s for visual only, I don’t think aprons are necessary due to the steel frame. If aprons are a must, perhaps attach them directly to the steel legs and not to the the top? Yes, I was thinking about elongating the holes to give them some movement opportunity when the wood moves. Aprons are visual only to make it look thicker than it really it is. Apron will probably be 3-4" .. not sure how big I will make them yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwacked Posted November 18, 2020 Author Share Posted November 18, 2020 Getting time to work on this one now that the sofa table is done ... A rough estimate of wood used .. trying to track all this now to have better ideas in the future. Everything milled up and ready for dominos I glued 2 halves together last night .. Then glued those together this morning and waiting until later before I start working on that to let the glue dry. Next, going to cut out the support base for it ... the 3/4 ply. I was thinking to attach it, I could put a location domino in 1 side, just to make sure it lines up the same every time and might make things either when attaching to the ply to make sure its in perfect position?? Thoughts? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted November 19, 2020 Share Posted November 19, 2020 Why is there a ply support base? Will it fit inside the legs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Posted November 19, 2020 Share Posted November 19, 2020 1 hour ago, Coop said: Why is there a ply support base? Will it fit inside the legs? +1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwacked Posted November 19, 2020 Author Share Posted November 19, 2020 2 hours ago, Coop said: Why is there a ply support base? Will it fit inside the legs? 1 hour ago, Jamie said: +1 This goes to the convo above where I will be wrapping the whole thing with an apron like the picture shows. The consensus was the wood movement would blow apart that wrapping and mitered corners if I connected directly to the top. So the ply bottom came into play where I could attach the apron to that and leave like a 1/32 or so gap all around so the wood could move and my miters would stay safe. At least that is the going theory on that at the moment .. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwacked Posted November 19, 2020 Author Share Posted November 19, 2020 More work done and now I’m in carpool line for kids ... Working through how low to go with the dominoes... ended up being like 27ish reveal?? it’s tough to balance it on there as the ply is about 1/32 sticking out on each side. legs installed where I want them and to help get the 4th piece of apron on. Only way I could find to get clearance to work on it haha. some closer pics of the legs ... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwacked Posted November 19, 2020 Author Share Posted November 19, 2020 And my WTF moment for this project ... 3/4 thick ... push a #6 bit all the way through on the 20mm setting. Nooooot happy about that one. Going to glue the domino in there and cut it off hoping the stain my wife wants to put on here will help hide it as well. Thoughts? also... for finishing... I’m assuming I finish the top on top/bot and all sides. The finish the ply on top and bot? Leaving the sides I fished for the glue from the apron. Now for the apron piece .. do I just finish the front? Or put like one coat on the back so it will glue still? need help on the thought process there please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted November 19, 2020 Share Posted November 19, 2020 I would fill the hold differently.. I would either make my own domino from a piece of scrap attempting to match the grain as close as possible or I would make is square and fill with a matching grain piece. Table is looking good! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwacked Posted November 19, 2020 Author Share Posted November 19, 2020 27 minutes ago, Kev said: I would fill the hold differently.. I would either make my own domino from a piece of scrap attempting to match the grain as close as possible or I would make is square and fill with a matching grain piece. Table is looking good! What would your answer be if I told you I had 0 chisels ... still the same? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenskye (Bryan) Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 By process of elimination, I would say make your own domino. Perfect time to buy some chisels. Your wife wants her table, and you need a specific tool to complete, I see no push back on this purchase. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwacked Posted November 20, 2020 Author Share Posted November 20, 2020 (edited) so 2 questions ... 1) Making my own domino, wouldnt that still be end grain on top showing? Am I misunderstanding yall? 2) If I were to go down the chisel route, which ones should I look at? I dont mind buying 3-4 or something like a starter pack. Then I will need some stones right? Or some way to sharpen then and to flatten the back of them before using ... right? Or is that not really needed at least for this first use? Would the Narex line be good enough? Some good Japanese set out there? Edited November 20, 2020 by Bushwacked Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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