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Chet
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Everything posted by Chet
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Having the paddles is a real plus. I crank the paddles for around 20 - 30 seconds about ever 4 or 5 times I run the DC and especially after using the drum sander for any length of time. Every time I crank the paddles it surprises me how much dust falls down into the bag.
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The only reason I can think of needing to change the speed on a bandsaw is you also want to cut metal with the saw. But if this isn't in your plans then there isn't really any reason to put speed control on your list of features.
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Those are really going to be nice looking chairs. Are you going to do fabric seats or wood?
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Bushwacked Garage Reno Complete in 2020 sometime ... Hopeful
Chet replied to Chet's topic in Member Project Journals
In my opinion they are worth it. It is a really nice hose. -
I have always like those, just had trouble justifying the price when the hold fast works for me. "thingy" thats a highly technical term most people don't know the definition of.
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My LED's are 4000K (Kelvin) I really like them but I know Kev's film gear wouldn't. I don't get along with bright light. My shop is well lit but not super white light.
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Now that my kitchen project is finished i am catching up un some of your videos. As far as the dados in the web frames I was wondering why you didn't use a router with a jig?
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Bushwacked Garage Reno Complete in 2020 sometime ... Hopeful
Chet replied to Chet's topic in Member Project Journals
I have this hose and reel. Goodyear Hose and Reel I have replaced my hose a couple of times because of wear. This is the third one I have had and is by far the best one I have owned. It is very light but durable and pliable. And so far it seems to be holding up better then the ones in the past. The reel is nice but nothing that makes you go "Wow". It does what you need it to do but the reason I got this one as apposed to their other one is this is inclosed so you don't end up with dust on the hose and inner workings of the reel. -
You should see a good improvement over the bag with that.
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The wall behind our dining table is painted the same color as the rest of the kitchen area, but we have been looking at it for a while and decided that it is just too plain even though there will be pictures going back up. It still would be to much of one thing so I decided to build a wainscot that was similar in style to the shaker cabinet doors and the same color as the cabinets in the hopes that it will tie the two areas together. Looking at it from the kitchen.
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Bushwacked Garage Reno Complete in 2020 sometime ... Hopeful
Chet replied to Chet's topic in Member Project Journals
"Bushwacked Garage Reno Complete in 2020 sometime ... Hopeful" Hey Drew, Twenty Seven days to finish the shop reno or you need to start thinking about a new title for this thread. ? -
Using up scraps, practicing joints and techniques and ending up with something useful is always an enjoyable day in the shop.
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The backs look great, starting to look like chairs. I like the design.
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For a simple bookcase it has some nice, clean details to it.
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Good call.
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Up to and including Beer and Lumber.
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The more I think about this the more this comes to mind and it is just something to think about. If you were building this to be just an assembly table then the torsion box top is a good way to go, it provides a real flat surface. This is something that a chair builder would find indispensable. But when you start adding split tops and/or "T" tracks and holes for hold fasts or clamps you start to lose the benefits of the torsion top so the work put into building it because a wasted effort.
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I know a guy that as a torsion top on his out feed and put in a grid pattern of holes and uses this type of clamp instead of hold fasts. I would prefer holdfasts my self but there are options for your design. Yea, I have a couple of these Paulk holes in my outfield and Kev is right stuff gets lost. I don't really store anything there any more but when using my nail guns it is a nice place to set it between shooting nails and setting up the next parts to get fastened.
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Back a few years Grizzly was having a supply chain problem with most of their jointer models. There were a number of members on another forum that had ordered them and then canceled when they found something else. I don't recall any of them complaining about the cancellation process with Grizzly.
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Possible but I couldn't tell you for sure. I have always mounted so the bottom edge of the glass was pretty much at the bottom of the frame figuring it may end up there anyway. I only mentioned the maple if it was going to be a painted surface. If it is going to get some other type of finish then maple may not be the thing to use.
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Just as a point of interest with chisels. I don't hand cut dovetails and don't want to, but I find it real nice to have metric chisels when cleaning up mortises. The 6, 12, and 18 mm are about the thickness of a line on your tape measure smaller then 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 inch mortise.
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The Lexel that he is using isn't so much acting as an adhesive but more as a way of keeping the glass from rattling in the door. If I am not mistaking he is only going to put down about 1/16 inch bead and when you put the pane in, the weight of the glass will pretty much flatten the bead to the point that it doesn't really effect the dimensions in a noticeable way.
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Also I would think that the wood glue could effect how the area took stain if stain was going to be part of the finish program.
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Just as an addition Phillip Morley is also a director and instructor at the Austin School of Furniture and Design as well as a superb custom furniture maker. He has some very unique design ideas. I would really like to take a class on just his sanding techniques, the way he is able to get the end grain and edge grain sanded while not losing the crispness of his design lines and edges is one of the things that really stick out to me in his work. His website is worth a look. https://philipmorleyfurniture.com
