Chet

Have you selected pulls yet?

Yea Coop, I am making new drawers with false fronts and all new cabinet doors. I have a peninsula that I am modify also to make the storage space more useful and then one other cabinet that I will add pull out selves for pantry goods.

Did I miss Kev wearing an apron somewhere???

Well if they all come out okay you could make to extra chairs for when you have a big crowd over or you will also have grandkids at the table someday.?

So in the process of the kitchen renovation there are some things that need to be severely upgraded. First on the list was this bank of drawers. Twenty three years ago when I originally built the cabinets I wanted to build something that would last but the whole project was on a budget that was driven by kids in college and things like that, so there were things that needed to be skipped. One of those was drawer glides. So at the time I did the wooden drawer slide that ran down the middle of the under side of the drawer. Now I am adding mechanical slides. And it turned out to be a bit of a chore. I had to build out from the inside of the cabinet to get the drawer slides flush with the inside edge of the face frame and the left side was different then the right. To make things more fun I had to do all the work while reaching through the individual openings of the face frame. Took about 6.5 hours but this was probably the hardest of all the changes and upgrades taking place. I am glad it's done.

Yea, with pattern routing I like to get pretty close to the line on the band saw.

Some of my best times with my dad were over woodworking and because of that the shop can be a refuge for me. Do some simple tasks in the shop while you think of your dad that way you can let your mind wonder to good times with him. Healing is going to take time. don't be afraid to shed a tear, it helps. My dad passed in 1997 and I can still get chocked up thinking of him.

The acetone should take care of this and Kev is right 120 should do it for sanding.

I would wipe them down with acetone to get rid of any impurities then sand or hit them with a wire brush real well and prime them before painting.

Blue tape and super glue is faster and easier to clean up. Especially when it comes to the project pieces and for this you will be having a lot of them. Its even faster with the CA glue actuator spray. Just a quick coat of shellac or rattle can clear finish of any kind on the edges of you MDF templates.

I probably would just because I had the black paint out. Like you said no one will see it unless you are prone to throwing wild parties were people end up passed out on the floor. ? You really only need the gap on the long grain edges because that is the way the wood expands but I would go with a 1/16 gap all the way around to make it look uniform in appearance.

I like the look of oak but with open grain wood like oak you may want to plan on a grain fill other wise the stain can end up looking pretty harsh. Depending on how you construct the top you could definitely end up with wood movement popping your aprons apart. I think I would use some 3/4 ply as a sub straight. Attach the aprons to the edge of the ply and attach the top from the under side with oblong holes to allow movement. You will still need to leave some gap between the top and side aprons. I would also paint the side facing up on the ply flat black to make any gaps less noticeable.

If you used false fronts, couldn't you just use through dovetails all the way around?

Are you doing a false mahogany front or will the mahogany front will be the used for the half blind.

Welcome to the forums Nic. We will probably learn something from you too.

Welcome aboard Terry.

I have to be honest, the top one reminds me of walnut stain on pine. ?

No you only need one. I simple clamps on to your track and provides you a 90 degree or 45 degree edge.

I would want to get as close to the Thats what my chart says too and I would want to get as close to the recommended speed as possible. Oak has a lot of tannin in it and you can get burn marks pretty easily because of that. I would put oak in the same category as cherry and maple for how easily it can burn. Cherry and maple its the sugar, oak its the tannin. Also before you cut the curves on you back legs you might want to think of how you will cut the mortises, especially the ones for your side aprons. They might be a lot easier on a flat surface as apposed to a curved surface.

I have one of the TSO's. When you can afford it @DisVet you will be happy you have it.

I did something like this. I used 1/2 birch ply that I had on hand and cut some cross lap joints like pictured below. I have 4 strips 6 ft long and 4 strips 3 ft long. The cross laps allows me to break it down for storage. In storage all bundled together its about the size of 2, 2X4.

I always thought the Diablo blades were subpar compared to Freud's higher end stuff just because you always found them in places like Home Depot. Then I heard a reliable discussion about them and the cut quality is just as good in both lines but the Diablo's cut quality will degrade quicker and they really aren't meant to be resharpened As far as the track saw vs. circular saw I have don it both ways. For many years I used the circular saw, more years then I probably would have if I had heard about track saws sooner. My biggest take away is how much faster the track saw is in the sense that you just lay down the track on your marks and go. No clamping of the straight edge and no figuring for the blade offset. I know the track saw would be a bigger expense but some times you have to put a value on your time and the less points of error like offsets the better.

Welcome to the forums DisVet!

I have a stool sample like that. I shared it with my doctor last time I went in for a physical he laughed his a$$ off. Yep, he was using a router to cut his mortises, which is fine but when he did his tenons he cut them on the table saw again this is fine but he was cutting them about 1/2 narrower then they should be so he didn't have to take the time to round the edge of the tenons to fit the mortise, this left about a 1/4 gap at both ends of the mortise. So if his mortise was 1 1/2 inches he was cutting the tenons about an inch so he didn't have to round the edges, but like I said this left a gap at both ends of the mortise.