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Bushwacked
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Posts posted by Bushwacked
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12 hours ago, Coop said:
I would, like Kev said, mark and pre-drill your holes. Then set some 1/4” t-nuts into the backside of your ply and attach the ply to the wall. Secure the motor with 1/4” bolts and washers. If the motor ever needs to come down, you can do so without removing the ply. Looks like you have spaces for 8 bolts.
Was thinking of doing this and the reason I went with 2 sheets of ply ...
1 hour ago, Kev said:Lags with washers and lock washers. Now, if you can get to the back side then it would be bolts/nuts with washers and lock washers. Sized appropriately for the holes in the machine to help cut down with vibration. If you're going with Lags, you can go longer just know what's in the wall behind where those lags land. In the end, unless you have ply on the walls, you don't get much support by being much longer.
So, nothing would be behind the motor in the wall, the electrical is in another section over. So the lags would really be going through 2 sheets of ply (the motor base) and then 1 more sheet of ply (the wall) then into just void space.
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11 hours ago, Kev said:
I think you're both right..
I'd locate those holes for the motor and get them pilot drilled and then mount just the ply to the studs.. You only want to wrestle that thing once!
In your thoughts here ... what are you using to mount the motor to the ply/wall? Assuming whatever is is would be longer than 1 1/2" ?? so I added the wall to it ...
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53 minutes ago, Coop said:
Your ballgame but wouldn’t it be easier to mount the ply to the wall first, then screw the motor to the ply?
I debated that, but wasnt sure how well the bolts would grab into the ply and almost all of the bolt locations are in goofy areas where I cant get the impact driver to. So I figured it would be easier to just need to get 4 lag bolts into the studs where I do have easy access to.
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So after thinking it over … I decided to go with 2 sheets of ply. Mainly so I can recess the bolts in the back that the motor uses so it sits flush on the wall … hopefully haha.
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Updating Dust Collection-
To kick it off I need to get this done to clear up room for bandsaw ..
cutting hole in the barrel for my expensive dust bin full alert 🚨. Just need to be sure to peak at it from time to time
bolted the plexiglass over it. Then applied silicone around the inside window from the inside and the around the outer edges on the outside. Hoping it’s enough to keep it sealed and once it dries I’ll trim off some of the excess on the inside to help clear up the window more.
got the DC pulled apart … marking out mounting holes on the plywood base. Kind of curious .. I was thinking about using 2 3/4 pieces glued together to help strengthen it and keep it from pulling apart when hung on the wall. Thoughts on that one?
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Plans so far and ideas floating around …
- update dust collection
- new DC more semi-permanent runs
- new tool (bandsaw)
- tablesaw storage cart
- working on some type of dust collection for miter station
- storage under CnC ( what makes sense to store under there?)
- organization … just for you Kev haha we will see if ‘22 is the year 🤣
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dry fit done ... now time to finish sanding it all.
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28 minutes ago, Rod said:
✌️From oklahoma!
Welcome ... we (I) wont try to hold that against you 🙂 ... from texas here
enjoy the boards, tons of good knowledge floating around here
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Welcome JDub! ... Yes, there is plenty of jealousy floating around here with Kev's view from the shop ... or maybe its just me haha
Enjoy the forums!
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11 hours ago, Coop said:
You got the last few seconds of work time on the glue! Good job!
hah! ya I needed every second of working time! I was starting to wonder if I was gonna make it or not.
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2 hours ago, Coop said:
Yeah, the outside.
Here is a time lapsed version so you can relive the struggle with me haha
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16 hours ago, Kev said:
I suppose you could epoxy the bottom to fill those in? It's the bottom so, you won't see it..
hmmm I will ponder that, but true it is the bottom...
10 hours ago, Coop said:I featured gaps on the inside/top as well. Looks damn good bud! I’m curious as to how you glued that up?
I have not glued it yet. That was the test piece just to make sure my circle was the correct size. I should be able to cut out the real piece today. I glued up the panels yesterday.... unless you meant the outside?
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3 hours ago, Kev said:
I would have made it round first with the flush trim and a template. Then I'd of used that template to create a bottom with no gaps - or minimal ones at best.
So I was about to do that. Then realized with the template on there to get a clean circle on both inside and out so it was same thickness all around I needed thicker stock. Since this is not a perfect circle and is a little off it would have brought down the thickness to like 1/2” or less.
so this is what the bottom looks like with the test piece in.
next time I know I need to leave the stock as thick as possible so I can then cut the perfect circles and not have skinny looking sides.
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2 hours ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said:
I would probably leave as it is and get in finished up.
talked me into it ... just gonna go with it and see how it goes
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ok got the rabbet cut in there … it’s 5/16” according to Freud labels haha. Took 3 passes to go 1/2” up and cut like butter.
now after looking at this I am curious if I might need to change to 1 size deeper in? Mainly thinking this as the bottom is not a pure circle so there will be some gaps and wanted to make sure my circle base covers everything …
what would y’all do?
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19 hours ago, Coop said:
So how did you arrive at that dimension? My brother said it was 3.142”. I hate that he’s smarter than me! 😀
20"D x 3.141 (pie) = 63.82" (circumference)
Circumference / 3.13 (inside length) = 20.07 (= 20 pieces)
360 / 20 = 18* (overall cut angle)
18* / 2 = 9* (cut angle for each side)
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1 hour ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said:
With the shape of the item 3 or 4 passes for the bottom would be wise.
Was thinking the same. Especially first time using a bit like this. So not sure how it will go yet.
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5 hours ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said:
I wouldn’t worry to much about losing the shape. I doubt people will even know it isn’t a perfect circle. So I would first scrap the squeeze out. If you have a soft pad on a ROS you should be able to follow the curvature. It is gentle enough and keeping it moving should get the job done. Kev’s Idea of making a circle jig is good and helps with the bottom.
Valid points. I’ll take a stab at this first and see how it goes. I do have a soft pad on my orbital I’ll see how it goes.
also picked up this guy to rabbet the bottom out for the base. Figure that would look better than just sticking it to the bottom.
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1 hour ago, Kev said:
Nice..
for the inside circle, you could make a circle jig and use a flush trim bit to clean it up.. This will also give you a perfect template for the bottom.. Just a thought.
So trying to think through this … basically a donut right? Then attach it and run the flush trim bit… correct?
also .. forgot to add the smaller inside dimension was 3 1/8” … after all that math haha
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So after some research and math and all that fun stuff … finally getting started …
got everything cut and glued up man was that an entertaining glue up. Took awhile to get it all situated…
now my issue I am trying to figure out is how to sand the insides without losing the circle form. I was thinking rigid spindle sander?? But not sure how well that would do in keeping the form of the interior circle. There’s a good amount of glue I need to sand out …
next up will be working on the base for this ..
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54 minutes ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said:
Do you have it set up already in your shop? Can you move to your driveway to run a quick test? Trying to avoid a mess. Here is the test I would run, I would plane a board and have pipe from tool to DC and then have a pipe going vertical (roughly same length as total run needed) to see if going up through the ceiling is even possible before cutting holes in the ceiling and/or soffit. In order to get up to attic, your going to need a 90* at the DC. If this doesn’t work, drilling through brick may be only option.
I have not actually started moving things and setting it all up yet. I just got in all the pieces I needed this week, and am finishing up a project this week. Was going to probably start this over the weekend or early next week
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2 minutes ago, Coop said:
If you have the height in the room where the dc system will be and you are going to dump outside, that’s what I would do. No different than an exhaust for a clothes dryer. Do you have neighbors close by?
hmmmm, valid point ... the neighbors fence to the side is about 20' away and the fence to the back is about 40' away
1 minute ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said:Let me see if I’m following this. You don’t want to drill through the brick which isn’t hard, but I get it. So you are thinking of ducting up through the ceiling and out the soffit. I would run 6” pipe as far as you can and at the soffit, I would put a reduced wye fitting and cap 1 end. I believe you want to eliminate 90* elbows, just like when going to a machine. You may need to add a short length of straight pipe. You may also need a cap to keep birds out, which may cause a back up.
correct ... the total run is maybe like 6'-8' or so, not super long. With probably 3' or so of that being from the dust deputy to the ceiling.
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52 minutes ago, Coop said:
Is there no way you can vent thru the wall? Probably a silly question as I’m sure you have thought this through. As you are aware, I am apprenticing my way thru a hard pipe as well but I question the reduction from 6” to 4”. Hopefully you/we get a more knowledgeable answer from those better equipped
well, I could go through the wall, however, there is brick on the other side and I would really prefer not to put a massive hole in the brick if not needed.
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58 minutes ago, Coop said:
Now that’s a neat deal! I even liked listening to the guy! I bet he even has more to offer. Thanks for sharing.
yep, first video I have ever watched from him, but definitely going to go through his channel and see what else he has
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2022 garage shop updates …
in Member Project Journals
Posted · Edited by Bushwacked
Thanks Kev!
Spent the day making a hole .. first pilot hole need to move just a bit due to the brick