Chet

I am having to replace my Jointer knives. I have been looking at both HSS (about $40 a set) and Carbide Tip (about $100 a set). Do you guys have any opinions one way or the other?

Sometimes all the therapy a person needs is someone to talk to and all we need to do is listen. The cutting board and coasters are a top notch move on your part. Did you do the juice grove with a router and edge guide?

Welcome Mel.

That what Have mine set at. This is a big part of increased enjoyment in the shop, in my opinion. Even though you are still in some transition in the shop its a good time to work on the habit of putting things away at the end of the day.

Could also be that different blades will hit in different spots on the ceramic so it is a separate break in so to speak.

Yea, thats a Laguna bandsaw and they have ceramic guides. I am not sure about this. My Laguna is over 4 years old and they still spark anytime there is pressure on one side of the blade like cutting a tight curve. I guess if you never re-adjust them to the blade then yea they would wear done and not touch the blade anymore. Maybe different ceramic guides act different after use.

I have the same jointer you have and I get chips left behind, not as much as you have there but I also, like the others, take really light but multiple passes. I have always attributed it to two things. #1. My jointer is right below the tracks for my overhead door and because of this I had to run a less then perfect DC route which causes me to have a "U" turn in my flex hose where it connects to the jointerand my DC is only 1 3/4 H.P. and #2. the blade spins clockwise so I figure a certain amount is going to get flicked back in the direction of the infeed table. AND maybe it is a Powermatic problem.

I figured you had seen it I was just referencing how long it was compared to yours. ?

I would have an overhang of some sort on both ends. If you want it off set I would make the short end still capable of taking the full throat depth of my biggest clamp, whether it is an f-style or parallel. Some day you are going to need to clamp something to the bench and if you don't have an over hang on one end Mr. Murphy is going to make sure you regret not having it. If down the road you do add a leg vise the 5 inch width will come in handy. With Benchcrafted you have a Dado down the center of your leg for the Criss Cross hardware and part of the dado is 2 1/2 wide. If you have enough lumber it might be worth making whichever leg you might use in the future for the vise 6 or 7 inches wide. Which leg depends on whether you are a lefty or righty. 1 inch should be fine. I think that is all Marc had on the Roubo in the guild build. As far as the gap, it can be a matter of personal preference. Again for clamping purposes can you get the head of a parallel clamp through it, but on the flip side I don't have a gap in my bench and have never wish I had it. 4 inches is probably big enough for something really nice like a block plane or hand plane to fall through and go all the way to the floor. All the opinions above are strictly those of the author. ? P.S. my bench is the same length as yours if you want a visual of what that would be like.

Looks pretty sharp Drew. Nice work.

No you should be fine without any kind of thread lock. The wood has a certain amount of spring to it and will kind of keep a constant pressure on the screw. Of course I am speaking from California where the humidity is pretty constant. I don't know what kind of humidity swings you get in Texas but I really think that if you snug them up properly you should be fine.

That is a nice bench Rick. Kind of a Roubo base and Nicholson top.

Welcome aboard Spanky.

This guy is pretty incredible

Did a little more research on this line, this is their low end model with the Smart Start feature. https://pittsburghsprayequip.com/collections/graco-air-assist-airless-sprayers/products/graco-finish-pro-7-3-stage-hvlp-turbine-sprayer Their top model is around $2100.00

Well both people I have heard using them are Pros so i am sure it is worth it. They said not at all.

I am not referring to the airless. They have an HVLP line that runs only when in use. I linked one of the models above.

This is one of the models with the on demand power technology https://fastoolnow.com/graco-17n266-finishpro-hvlp-9-0-procontractor-series-sprayer/ Its call Smart Start

Well since this conversation first started I heard Phillip Morley talking about the one he has. Its made by Graco and the model he has, the motor only runs when you pull the trigger on the gun. I am sure it is the higher end of the line but that is a feature I could get behind.

Submitted on the old forum by Kev Just an FYI for anyone else needing to replace them, it's not too difficult but, you do need to take the wheels off. The bottom wheel is the hardest one because that's also got the pulley for the belt. I used a quick grip to pull it into place so I could get the screws in it.. Once it locked in and I got the first screw going, the rest was simple. For the record, I went with the Grizzly Urethane tires. I've got a 1" resaw blade on it and will let you know how they hold up. Follow up posts 1) Kev, is yours a 17” saw, being that you have a 1” blade on it? Was part ofthe structure what prevented you from putting the top tire on or was just easier while on the ground? 2) Yes, it's the Grizzly 17" anniversary version. Stretching the tires while the wheels are on is pretty impossible by yourself! The instructions call for the removal of the wheels and they were spot on! 3) Thanks. Mines only a 14” but good to know.

Submitted on he old forum by bushwacked I am curious to hear people’s thoughts on SS vs PM. I own the SS industrial 3hp with 52” table and love it. It also doesn’t hurt that it has safety features built in as well. Thoughts on why you picked one or the other. Or why you would pick one over the other. I don’t consider money a deciding factor when you are about to spend the $$ the get either of these saws. Follow up posts 1) Powermatic was maded in my hometown McMinnville,Tn back in the day. They had a foundry and a factory. Now I would buy the Sawstop. I have the powermatic 20” planer and I like it. I don’t like the Made in Tawain tag on it. 2) Let me start by saying that there's no wrong answer! Both are great saws! I've used both so, do have some personal experience. Sawstop's technology is really the main reason behind me choosing PM. Yes, the technology is awesome and worth the price when you consider a major table saw injury. The technology also has faults. We've all see the stories of the brake tripping when the glue joint wasn't quite dry enough, or we touched the aluminum miter fence, and, of course, changing blades has additional steps and concerns. I don't believe that the technology makes you more complacent. In fact, I would say it's just the opposite because you're constantly considering these things that trip the brake because you just don't want to pay for the replacement brake as well as the blade. Between the 2, you're probably looking at a couple hundred bucks a pop - well worth that cost to prevent an injury tho! So, my choice will be the PM because of it's simplicity and I will continue to treat the TS with respect. 3) I have been woodworking in some form for over 30 years and I was a meat cutter for 32+ years were I was around a bandsaw, meat slicer and other sharp tools. When I got around to replacing my Delta Contractor saw I was going toward the SawStop almost from the get go. My thinking at the time was that I had an aggregate of over 60 years around "dangerous" tools and the odds of any type of accident were growing against me. When I bought my SS I didn't even know that PM existed if you can believe that. When I was looking the only other saw I would have looked at, because I was aware of the brand was Delta Unisaw. I have been super happy with the SS and I have always looked at the safety system as an "in addition to" not an "instead of" safe operation feature. I don't see the changing of blade and brake a big deal. It's one thing extra to unlock and remove and then install and lock. If you are someone that uses a combination blade like the Forrest II the the only time you ever deal with this is when you put on your dado stack. 4) Heck I’m still using the original blade in my sawstop. When it fills I’ll look into a new blade/blades for it. Right now it still cuts good enough for me and no complaints. 5) Not being familiar with SS, do you buy their blade or will all blades work on their cartridge? I guess I could look it up but I like the experience answer. 6) You can use your blade of choice on the SS. 7) I thought there was issues with the use of thin kerf blades in the SS. I could be wrong as I don't own. I do feel that these are the only real options if you are buying a new cabinet saw, and probably can't go wrong with either choice.

Submitted on the old forum by bushwacked 1) I’m curious your thoughts on how important this tool is? Should you have one but not blow a lot aka grizzly or will a good one like PM make life so much easier ... I sold my 14” grizzly that had like a 8” cut capacity or something like that and it wasn’t very impressive. I could have got the riser block to make it a bigger capacity but I just decided to sell it while undergoing the House Reno and little shop time this past couple years. Thoughts? 2) That's why I have 2 bandsaws! If you have space issues, you'd be fine with just one saw. For me, I wanted the extra resaw capacity but, I didn't want to change blades every time I wanted to cut a tight circle. Both of mine are Grizzly and I don't have any complaints. 3) with the 2 car garage being a constraint ... I would only be able to get 1 until I get everything built and worked out and maybe figure out how to fit 2, but for a long time it will only be 1. IS a bandsaw a tool you could go with a grizzly or rikon that have 12"+ resaw capacity and be fine? 4) My shop is only a 2 car garage I resaw on my Grizzly 17" just fine. 5) I ‘ve had a 14” Grizz with the riser block for a couple of years and can’t see myself without one. I bought it principally for resawing asI was living life precariously, resawing on my ts. Now that I have it, I find myself using it at least once on every project. I even used it to make my first hand cut (if you will) dt’s on one of Marc’s guild builds. Also used it to slice a block of dry ice. 6) I didn't have a bandsaw for years but finally got the Laguna 1412 about five years ago and don't know how I would go without it now. It has good power 1 3/4 hp. The fit and finish was great out of the box. I really like the easy of adjustment of the ceramic bearings and it has a re-saw capacity of 13 inches, actually I think you could do 13 1/4. 7) I’m still not sure what direction to go for the bandsaw. I’m looking at grizzly rikon Jet laguna and PM still. So basically all across the board. I know I want to be able to resaw at least 12” at minimum. Also looking for minimal fidgeting with out of the box too. I still have plenty of time for research as I need a lot more stuff done in my garage before I pick up a new bandsaw. 8 ) Just another point of interest and I think Rikon has some form of this also but all the bearing adjustments are tool free on the Laguna. 9) Oh tool free adjustments would be great! I figured PM was the only one that would have that) 10) My thought is a bandsaw is one of those key tools for a shop. I don't think I would get a PM bandsaw, for the money you could get a MM16 from Minimax for the same price and is a better saw. I have a 14" grizzly and has served me well, but if I was going to upgrade it would be to a Minimax or Italian made Laguna. I do like the Rikon offerings though. 11) How much do minimax run? I only see a call for quote on pricing. 12) The MM16 is between $3000 to $3500. Forget the exact price when I got a quote, plus the have offers at times. 13) Ouch! And that gives you how much re-saw capacity? 14) Right around 16" 15) Wow. That is up there. Are they that much better than PM? 16) I would say it is a better machine than the PM and when looking at the PM1500, the price isn't much different. One of the reasons I haven't upgraded is the MM is just tall enough to where it won't fit in the shop in the 2 locations I can realistically put a bandsaw. 17) That’s one big mother board to be resawing. That’s in Spanky’s class now. My 14” will allow for 12” clearance but I guess the largest I’ve ever resawn was about 8”.

Submitted on he old forum by bushwacked Fuji 2203G Semi-PRO 2 - Gravity HVLP Spray System www.amazon.com/dp/B00D4NPPQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_T-7ZBbGQZNFAQ Was thinking of getting into spraying to help with finishing. Supposedly it can do latex too. But mainly it will be a oil finishes like general finishes or danish oil. Thoughts on that one? Follow up posts 1) It's a good unit! 2) I have the Semi-Pro 2 and I am real happy with it. Kev has used mine almost as much as me. I didn't know it would do latex, I would be interested in how that goes. 3) Supposedly it can from what several of the Amazon reviews/questions say. Just need the 2.0 nosel addition parts apparently. Also coming from never sprayed anything but a rattle can. How easy is it to pick up on working the machine and tuning in the spray settings. 4) Its real easy to get the hang of it. Couple of things you can do - fill it with water and practice on your fence, or if you want to dial in with the actual material, get a big piece of cardboard and practice on that. Jeff Jewitt's book "Spray Finishing Made Simple" is a great book that comes with a DVD. It really gets you off and running. I recommend you watch the DVD first and then get into the book, this way you have watched him do what he talks about in the book. www.amazon.com/Spray-Finishing-Simple-Step-Step/dp/1600850928?crid=1FHP2AY8IVANW&keywords=jeff+jewitt+finishing&qid=1540410644&s=Books&sprefix=Jeff+Jew%2Caps%2C188&sr=1-1&ref=sr_1_1 5) Chet is correct.. WB finishes are also a good place to start as they're pretty forgiving. 6) I need to get mine out and practice with it. You shouldn’t own a hand gun without taking it to the range regularly. 7) There's a pretty good deal for one on WTO right now. 8 ) I saw that ... really am thinking about it since I going to need to redo my cabinets sometime as well and would love to spray and not brush haha. How much better is that vs the one I linked in first post? 9) I certainly haven't gotten the chance to use the one on WTO but, Fuji is a good product. Check the specs and do your homework. I have the Q4 and love it. 10) Have you tried latex through your Q4? 11) No but, I wouldn't hesitate to use it for that if I needed to. 12) I used my MiniMite today for only the third time to spray some GF HP and thank goodness, it’s very forgiving. I just need to use it more often to rid myself of the white knuckles and anxiety.

Submitted on he old forum by Coop I hope this is in the right section? I currently use a cheap Kobalt set from Lowe’s. There are three pieces that include #’s 6, 8 and 10/12. I’m not sure of my dissatisfaction but just wondering what you guys use? Follow up posts 1) I have a snappy set and the ones you mentioned Coop. Overall I'm happy with the function they serve, and this is 1 of those things I won't invest heavily in, maybe to my own detriment. 2) Cheap sets here as well.. They work well enough and are cheap enough to just replace them when they get buggered up. I like the depth stop on the one Marc uses but, just not a fan of all that bulk. 3) I probably have the same set you mention from Lowe's. I have no real complaints with them, like Kev mentions, easy to replace. 4) I have the Insty-Bit. It works good for me. Not sure it's any better than what you already use. 5) Thanks guys. I’m not out to spend money but if there is a better way then, I don’t mind doing so. Kev, I asked you once but can’t find your answer. On a couple of your projects, you had two drills set up for countersinking. Mind telling me again what you were using? 6) I use some cheapos that came with a dewalt box I got a long time ago. 7) I guess what my problem is if I want to attach a piece and don’t want to drill all the way through the piece I’m attaching it to and I have not gotten to the counter sink part of the bit yet, if that makes sense? 8 ) Those usually have a set screw in them so that you can shorten the drill portion Coop.. If I understood you correctly.. 9) You did. The shank of the bit has a flat spot where the set screw rests against. Move it down to the cutting portion and now I get a run out, due to the wobble of the uneven portion of the bit. The next time I incur this problem, I’ll address it here with pics, whick will be easier to understand 10) Change the bit out to a shorter bit.. All mine have very short bits which I prefer. The down side, as you can see in my videos, is that I often have an extra pilot drill set up to get the deeper holes when needed. 11) That was the two I was referring to. Ok, thanks.

Submitted on the old forum by Kev I've been running a very old Makita over/under compressor since about 1994. It's been an awesome compressor that has taken everything I've ever thrown at it and still runs great! My only complaint that I've ever had with it was how loud it is. So, seeing good reviews and seeing even better prices, I broke down and replaced the old Makita. Actually, I'm just moving to the garage. I picked up California Air Tools 5510SE compressor. One of the lesser expensive ones so, we'll see how it goes. Here's the link. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NOSCDPA/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I've only gotten as far as unboxing it and test running it once. I'll give more feedback once I've had the chance to put it through its paces. Out of the box, I'm impressed! Light weight but, has a set of wheels and a handle. The cord could be a little longer but, that's really not an issue. When they say it's quiet, they mean that it's quiet! Really quiet! I actually had to turn the radio down in the shop to hear the compressor! So, more follow up as I run it.. Follow up posts 1) 5.5 Gal. Isn’t a lot. What was the capacity of your previous one? For the price, as long as it will keep up, is a deal 2) I think the Makita was about the same really.. Maybe a little more HP? It is an over under configuration where the new one is just one tank. I only need it to drive some pin nails and maybe blow off a little dust.. I won't be asking this one to build decks, shops, and paint cars like I did the old one. 3) My son in law that works in tool repair has been telling me for years that the California Air are pretty top notch equipment. He has convinced me that its the one to get if I replace the present one. Also he says it is way better to get longer air hoses then use longer cords on compressors. 4) I completely agree about the cord but, this on is just a little on the short side.. Certainly not a deal breaker. I'll load up the tank today and run a series of nails to see how it does.. How many shots before it needs to pressure up again and how long the recovery time is. I will tell you that I had to turn the stereo down in the shop so that I could hear the compressor! 5) Well, apologies! I didn't get to the compressor today.. Between dealing with some stuff on the building, hauling material, and starting work on the new miter station I just didn't get to it. I'll get to it soon, I promise. 6) No apologies needed. Its your time off, you need to do what you want/need to do. 7) Chet, I would have thought just the opposite. Did he say why? Is it because the hose is like part of the reservoir? 8 ) Really had a good opportunity to put it through its paces today and, to say I'm impressed is an understatement. We made 9 cabinets for the new miter station in the new shop today. Although we used glue and screws for the bulk of what we did, all of the maple edge treatments were done with glue and brads. All in all, I probably shot 300 of them today and never once waited on the compressor! I was impressed with how long it went between needing to refill and how short of a time it took to complete the refill! To top it off, I could barely hear it refill. My only complaint is that I didn't buy this compressor a few years ago when they first came out! Amazing price and amazing value! 9) Did you buy off Amazon? Curious how the packaging was with the motor on top exposed. 10) Packaging was awesome! In fact, it was in a double box. The motor section had a good bit of styrofoam around it and was well protected. Best hundred and fifty bucks I spent all year! 11) Always good when things go your way!