Chet

Submitted on the old forum by RichardA Straight up trade..... Table for enough wood for my next project. Attachments:

Submitted on the old forum by bushwacked Been a looooong sloooooow process to get my garage where it has more than 2 outlets. Plus wrapping up a 5 year house reno that took all the time away from making the garage more functional. This is where I started ... A lot of wasted space in there but was functional for holding 16' pieces of trim etc. Also cutting lots of 8' sheets of plywood. Now it starts to become more of a non remodel shop and more functioning furniture shop etc .... Down goes the sheet rock! If you look at the 3rd pic, the ceiling was already coming down on its own. It fell down about 3-4' from the back wall and was the main reason I decided to redo all the walls. Figured while I struggled with trying to patch the ceiling, it would be easier to just take it all down and do the walls like I want them and fix the ceiling along the way. Also in the 3rd/4th pic, there is a sub panel wired in by my brother in law ... it is a 100A panel so it should be plenty of power to everything I need without effecting the house stuff, or vice versa. Than plan is to have 200v on the right and 120v on the left... about every 6' around the whole garage. Been a busy few days ... Insulated, redid the drywall on 1 wall and the ceiling. Also tested new lighting in 1 of the rows. 3/4 ply on the other 2 walls and then added a new lumber rack from the home depot storage section, the rubermaid stuff. Painting to come on the drywall wall and ceiling , dont think I will touch the ply for now. Due to holidays I lost my electrician to finish the back wall electrical outlets and the lights on the ceiling for awhile. It will give me time to rest and work on a few other projects though so all is good. Yes, I will have a air filter in there, I do have 1 ceiling outlet in the middle, but I think I may look into a couple more. Wall painted and ceiling painted .. starting to move things around to test out locations. Still no clue where I really want anything yet. Even the tablesaw ... I am not 100% sold I like where it is since I have to open the garage door to make a cut. However convient it is for cutting long pieces or ply easily, just not sold on it yet. For now it will stay until I get more pieces put in place and see what kind of room I am working with after that. Tested 1 set of 3 lights .. will have 3 sections total, for now and see how well that does. A lot of the stuff around the lathe on the floor is not mine, so just storing the extra tools from my brother in law there while he helps. So that should clear up in a few weeks as well. Here is the new outfeed table built ... I have not put anything on the bottom. Debating putting a shelf there as I am thinking I may add cabinets in there for storage, but not 100% sure what I want to do with that space yet, so I am not touching it so I dont limit my options in the coming months. getting final coat and will be ready for now. Still not sure what I want under it yet so leaving it a blank slate for now till I get some work done with it around to see what makes sense. Still working through getting some organization stuff ... went after a clamp rack to get them off the ground and out of my way. drawn up and a little quick math on the holders done ... Everything cut up quick little jig to cut the angles for the supports The hardest part of the build was getting these attached ... it was a real pain in the ass by myself and not sure of any other way to do it. So there are a couple that are not level across as they slipped a little when trying to screw them in. Hung up now on my south wall, not all the clamps in but the ones in the garage at least are on it. Will add the others later on. Still thinking of how to add a few more different clamps to it. Like spring clamps and the the trigger clamps I have laying around too. Thinking of maybe a dowel coming out of each side about 10" or so to slide them on and off ... not sure what else I could do. Thanks! I went and got some dowel rod at HD and will be adding that to it as well in the next few days. I like the k body, I like how they disperse more pressure than the regular F style with the small pad on them across the work piece .... now I dont know how much more of if it is actually better or not, but in my mind it is haha. Another reason I want to love the saw from the front of the garage and why I'm really digging your mockup Kev ... About a foot from water Here is 3/4 dowel added to the side ... 2 should be plenty for now for my smaller clamps. Took about 5 mins and a home Depot dowel rod and got it done. Quick and simple ... not pretty though, but good thing it is just shop furniture. Worked on a drill charging station to help get those up and out of the way and some extra storage for some miscellaneous stuff ... A quick little drawing to get an idea of what I need to do ... Cut sheet .... Cutting out the drill spots ... the new outfeed table and the old outfeed table kinda work well together, for now. Hoping to get the same type of cohesion when I finally get around to building an assembly table later on in the year hopefully. At least that is the though Laying out some dado's because we always seem to have a wonderful convo about changing out blades/dados I timed myself this time. Not going crazy fast or anything and just normal speed and switched from rip blade to 3/4" wide dado setup in 4:23 ... Not sure if that is slow or fast or normal time haha. Everything together and installed next to the clamp rack. Should get some stuff loaded up and I will grab a pic once I get most of it up. Definitely not the the prettiest thing to look at but it should be very functional and do what it needs to do ... I hope haha With the extremely gracious help of Kev and getting his thoughts on a layout for my garage... I have taken quite a few of his ideas to kinda get a starting point on where things should go ... A few things on reading the drawing ... - Overall garage is 20' x 19' - The lower dotted line is the garage door when it is up, lowering the overall height of the 8'+ garage ceiling, plus something to think about when running DC lines - The upper dotted lines: - The top one is the 17" off the wall that the wood rack goes out, bottom row is about 4' 6" off the ground - The bottom line, just below it, is 18 1/2" off the wall where there is a 2" raised section (not sure where you call it) - These are a few reasons why the equipment, for now, is out away from the wall - The dust collection is moved down a little further due to 2 electrical panels on the right wall and the sub panel ... Not 100% sure where it needs to go, but I will see once I get more room to play with out back there. - The green tools are the ones I have now - The pink tools/cabinets are the ones that I am planning on bringing into the shop - The sink is already plumbed in and cant be moved - The left wall door is the one into the house - The top wall door is to the back yard Now on the center tools --- I moved the TS/Joiner/Outfeed over away form the miter station ... only reason for now was just to give the little kids more room to walk and not bang their heads on anything coming and going through there. It could get moved closer to the miter station once they get a few more years older if needed. I do like the idea of having 1 drop to handle those middle tools. Things to come --- Tools: 1) Bandsaw - Hoping to pick up one by my Bday in May. Still debating on the Laguna 14BX vs Rikon 14" Pro vs Jet 15" 2) Router Table - Will most likely build the cabinet and pick up a nice lift for it, most likely the Jessem. 3A) Drum Sander - Definitely not using the stock stand for it. Will be for sure taking Kev's cabinet and maybe modifying it a little to what I need. - Looking at the Supermax 19x38 since that seems to be the most agreed upon drum sander out there 3B) Dust Collector - Looking into a better DC unit ... my Jet 1200 1 1/2 hp doesnt seem to be able to handle to the level I would like it. Right now is is running on a 4" 15' flex hose and still not doing that great. I would expect better with that short of a run. - Thinking of possibly the Oneida Supercell Building: 1A) Miter Station 1B) Assembly Table - Not sure which one I need to build first yet ... neither are just must haves and I cant work without. However, I am thinking the miter station for the sole reason of more storage capabilities than the assembly table, even though that will have storage as well. Getting another item off the checklist ... I went with the fliptop for now so I could get the spindle sander off the floor. Drew out a version to get an idea ... Breaking everything down hopefully the last time on the huge outfeed/assembly table. Starting to assemble the carcass. Setup an ugly tenoning jig to cut out my pieces. Drilling the holes in the 4 corners for the eye bolts and stuff ... On a side note, if anyone is in the market for some forstner bits ... these things are amazing. Super sharp and forgot how much I liked them until this. Center holes drilled for the pipe to rotate on. Cutting out the eyebolt holes to slide around and lock ... I dont know what it would actually be called haha Putting casters on and breaking out the new christmas gift! The 4in1 from Milwaukee is a sweet little tool. Plus saved quite a bit from getting the Festool. First look on the casters and stand up. Spins just fine! Here it is with everything attached! Super happy with it, and rotates just fine even with the weight difference. 2 things I did learn from this ... drilling the holes for the bar and then pushing it through the top really sucked. Not sure if my tolerances were too tight or what, but I was beating the crap out of it with a hammer to get it all the way through. Glad I got it through and to the other side and I can still spin it just fine. I think the holes were drilled just a tad out from 90* since I did it free hand. Next time, if there is one, I will be going to the drill press and doing it there. The other thing is to look at the over all size of everything ... if you look closely in the picture you may notice the handle that raises/lowers it will not fit ? ... It is super quick and easy to take it off when I flip it so I am not too worried about it. I dont imagine I will be flipping it too much, so I am not too worried about it. Lessons learned like always ... Now next hopefully I can get the outfeed/assembly table out of the garage this weekend and work on getting the middle set of machines setup there. Got some good work in today, cleaned up enough to get a basic layout and at least the big stuff out of the way ... Old cabinets broken down and ready to be stored until I can break them down a little more Everything out of the cabinets and now crap is everywhere working on the new layout trying new things out ... Lots of cleaning to get around to, but it seems to slowly be coming together. As far as the layout, some things are not in their forever homes, like the DC since I have not put all that in. So for now it is just hanging out by the big machines for now. Drew this up for the north wall of the shop ... 10' overall length. Will have door on it, going most likely with inset doors. I have not decided on how many drawers yet or inside layout, will be thinking that through in the next few days now that I think I have the overall look/size done Seem about right for the space? ok thanks tmize and Jamie! Will defintely be thinking more heavily on it in a months down the road when those projects start. Now taking a stab at lighting ... I am thinking the below layout ... thoughts? This is just the layout, then the next one is the one side by side with the tools to give you a better idea of where they would be hitting .. Got some work done this weekend and wrapped up Monday ... we have light!! woking on installing them .. from the driveway... that is with the garage up blocking 3 lights ... now with all not sure how much the pictures do it justice but there is not a dark spot in the garage now they are 25” off each of the side walls and the the middle is centered between those 2. so got some work done moving things around ... Drill press and lathe kinda setup but still crap everywhere to move it haha. These cabinets will be amazingly helpful So now that I’m moving on to the north wall ... a question for the masters do I build cabinets that follow the slope of the garage or make them level from the highest point ... probably talking a 2” drop from start to finish Well after putting everything in the middle ... needed some power to the machines. Started making an extension cord to go out there. still need to wrap them and connect it all with wire nuts. Had to order the cover plate online as no one sales a double hole plate in store for some reason. Kinda annoying as the plate costs a few bucks and shipping is like 3 times that Attachments:

Submitted on the old forum by bushwacked So with the garage remodel ongoing and this shelter in place stuff looking like it may be even longer like the end of May around here ... Got another project I am looking to start before I go back to work. My sons closet ... Some starting questions though to start prepping ... 1) Should I rip the carpet out of the closet and build a little 3-4" base in there that would but up to the inside of the walls? Then the carpet would be meeting it at the doorway area. 2) How much clearance should the open top area have from the ceiling? 3) Should I edge band the ply or just build face frames out of some type of contrast wood or just the same wood? If I edge band I need recommendations on tools. From awhile back, I got some of them from what you used Kevin ... - Fast Cap Speed Roller - Quad Trimmer With Carbon Steel Blades - Edge Banding Birch 3/4 - Iron I dont really know one way or the other if I like the carpet in there. Although I am curious what the carpet looks like with that shelf already there. I need to rip all that out before I make the final decision I guess.I have never stretched carpet back out though and done all that .. not sure how hard or much of a pain that would be to do. I have never done edge banding .. this might be the perfect time to learn though haha. I see in your video, it looks pretty straight forward though running the iron over it. With the closet only being 22" deep, I am thinking 12" deep ?? The current ones in there are just shy of 12. Not sure on what depth of the middle section makes sense or how to judge ... so was kinda going off what was there. Nothing too fancy ... basically: 2 - 10" drawers on bottom 4 - 7" drawers above it The top open section is about 30" so I am still debating on what to put there, maybe open shelves (for now I have 1 shelf put in there) Not sure if I need more than 1, that may be too cramped. Or even go a little crazy and have a 4 cubby top part there ... not sure

Submitted on the old forum by Jamie Started a new project for my aunt and uncle. They wanted a storage area for their grand daughters toys along with a table to sit behind their couch. My aunt is a high school principal and sent me some pictures of some plywood storage shelving units that she was thinking about getting. Asked me to build them one. I decided to change it up completely and make it more of a furniture type piece that will outlast the grand kids toy era. I searched for some ideas and actually found one that she liked and was surprised that it was actually one that came from wood smith shop so I had the plans for it. Well shouldn’t say plans but a idea. Building it a different size than the one they shown, but am taking many ideas from it. drawing up plans is not my strong suit by I decided to give it a go. For some reason I make way more mistakes on paper than I do out in the shop. Really wish it was something I was better at and had more patience for. picked up the red oak today after work. It always seems to be raining out when I get lumber. Wrapped it up cardboard and some empty feed sacks for the trip home. Got the lumber from a local lumber yard that doesn’t usually deal in hardwoods. Had them order it in yesterday for me and luckily they were getting a delivery today from their supplier. Wasn’t the cheapest red oak I have ever gotten but for the turn around time I can’t complain. Ordered 60bf at $3.60 a bf. skipped planed to 15/16” and straight edged. Am making a face frame for the front and back of the table. Got them milled up and put together other than the center style. Decided to cut them a half in short. So will mill new ones up tomorrow night along with the end panels/frames. I don’t have mission style shaper cutters for the panels so will be making them on the table saw. Did get the plans all figured out at work today, with this virus thing kicking in around here we locked the doors to walk in traffic so had a little free time. After I got home I got a few of the panels glued up, panel stile and rail parts rough cut along with the face frame part. Did realize that I do need to get more clamps. Currently I have 8 pipe clamps is all. Had my daughters out in the shop playing and have them convinced that daddy needs more clamps. We will have to see how Father’s Day turns out this year. The girls like to stay busy in the shop by taking scrap pieces and gluing them together with the occasional shape for me to cut for them. This project is going to end up being pretty big. I thought it might be when I was drawing up the plans but didn’t realize how big it was till I glued up the top. I just ball-parked the bf from the plans in wood smith and added a few. Believe they called for 43 and I got 60. Raided my stock pile of red oak which was only a couple 8’ boards and am still going to be a little short. Am going to be taking the panels to the cabinet shop that I worked at to have them planed down. Don’t like to have to do that mostly because I like to do things myself but in this situation with the panels being 18-24” wide they are a little to big for my 13” planer and I would be at my drum sander for a week straight. It just makes more sense this go around. Am planing on when I get all the parts put together on taking them all back to his shop to run them through his wide belt sander. It is a pretty sweet machine which he didn’t have when I worked for him, but it has been 12 years since I worked there. It’s a 52” wide 3 head sander. I will try to snap some pictures of it when I’m there. I should mention that those panels were glued up right off the table saw. One side was hit on the jointer and other off the saw. Got the sofa table parts all completed. 95% of the woodwork is complete, taking the parts to a cabinet shop to be sanded. That sander does such a good job in a short period of time that I can’t go wrong. Picked up the end panels from them on Friday and spent most of the day Saturday gluing the top and bottom panel along with the shelves. Machined all the stile and rails on the table saw. Went really well, forgot how much fun it is to to them on the saw vs the shaper. Only reason I did them on the saw is because I don’t have mission style cutters for the shaper. got to try out the panel sled that I made last weekend, quick build that worked like it should’ve. Had to fill in the bottom on the end panel stiles with a little piece. Found a measuring mistake in the plans that required me to make a new panel for the center piece. Planed it down to thickness before gluing it up. Broke out the bisket cutter to line it all up. All the parts ready to go Attachments:

Submitted on the old forum by Jamie Had a great Saturday in the shop. Have a giant hole in my shop space that needs to be filled in with tool and hardware storage. Decided to finally start on a miter saw station. After watching countless videos and snooping on the net I think I have what will best work for me. Got all the plywood worked up yesterday. They are going to be a frameless cabinet which I’m not used to building so I’m sure I’ll hit a few bumps along the way. All the ply in my cart ready to go. On the backside of my cart I have a place to crosscut sheets. Got the plans from stumpy nubs. Made a crosscut jig that works surprisingly well. Get very nice square cuts. I like to use 1/8” deep dados and rabbits for aligning during assembly. Tons of edge banding to do. Got the edge band off Amazon and had plenty of glue on it but was pretty narrow so not much room for error. Glad I had a downdraft table for all the sanding. Should maybe make an effort to clean it out more. Ended up getting 2 coats of lacquer applied before the end of the night. Drawer slides showed up! Got one of the two cabinets put together and the second about half way. The slides I ordered off of Amazon, I’m not sold on them completely. Have ordered slides from them before and thought they were decent. Me being the cheap ass that I am decided to get the ones with screws. 6 screws is what they send along per set. 6 of the cheapest softest screws I have ever used. Slides seem to be ok. If they were going in my kitchen I’d send them back. Should have the second cabinet assembled tomorrow night and then need to start on toe kicks. I like to put the drawer slides on the cabinet sides before I put them together. This project has reminded me why I don’t like to build frameless cabinets. Just a lot of messing around making sure everything comes out square. it is exciting building this and I can really see the need for it and the miter saw fence. Hard to get the consistency in parts measuring and marking. Thank you all for the kind words. Got back at it tonight. Bigger cabinet was giving me fits last night and thought about it all day at work. Decided to beef it up and add cleats to the back in the groves I had already had in place. Worked really well. I then took a different approach for the last divider piece by attaching cleats before putting it together. Wow! That made it go really smooth. Maybe it’s not the euro style cabinets that were the problem but my approach on assembly. Moved onto the toe kicks from there. I made the same style as I did on my out feed table since it was quick easy and affective. I use 2x4 material, run them on edge over the jointer then rip the round edge off. Flip it around and rip off the edge on the jointed side. I then run the faces through the planner just to clean them up. I just put them on 16” centers and use some 3” screws to hold it all together. I like to build the toe kick separately from the cabinet just for ease of leveling. I don’t remember where I seen the idea of using t-nuts and carriage bolts as the levelers but it is cheap an easy! had to mock it up before heading in for the night. Didn’t level it yet. Just wanted to see what it would look like. am pretty happy with it! Will have to do some dust collection work as I need to get a hose to the right saw on its own gate. Going to use that around the bench and for my downdraft table. Haven’t decided if I’m going to run it behind the cabinet or go across the top. The cabinet is 24 in deep but I’m pretty sure the top will be at least 30-32. Reasons for that are for the dust collection hose and to have deeper upper cabinets. Attachments:

Submitted on the old forum by bushwacked I was all set to steal/barrow your design completely Kev, however I stumbled upon this build below looking for ideas of what I could put in the cabinet for storage etc etc ... Thoughts on the above? It is bigger than I was hoping, but may be a decent idea since I could roll it anywhere with its self contained "DC". Would the lack of suction from a DC hurt anything as far as leaving too much waste in the planer? The blower on that planer is amazing, so its the only reason I am giving this more of a thought ...

Follow up posts 1) Really neat idea. Your daughter is precious! 2) Thank you very much! She is 2 and a handful! (To much like her mother) 3) Just like my two kids (2girl,7boy) always in the shop with me. My boy is getting good at planing and sawing boards to smaller boards. She just wants to color on everything and make it pink. 4) It’s awesome your kids are in the shop with you! My oldest used to color every piece of scrap that she could! I still have a few of them, am tempted to hang a few up for shop art. She just turned 7 a few weeks ago. She is a very good helper when it comes to cleaning the shop up some. Give her a dust collector hose and she is entertained for an hour! 5) Oh yea I have plenty of scrap art on the walls. On the door coming into the shop I have the kids height marked on the door frame jamb. Neither of mine like the cleaning that much but sure do like transplanting shavings all over the place

Submitted on the old forum by Jamie Am waiting on drawer slides to show up before I can continue on with the miter saw stand so decided to knock this cabinet out. Had a base of a harbor freight dust collector sitting around so thought it would make a great base for the Kreg foreman. Pretty simple cabinet I drew up in my mind. Thought I could get away with using the dust collector base as the bottom but in the middle of the project decided it wouldn’t. Used 3/4 sanded pine plywood for the whole build. Got it from Home Depot for a really fair price, actually kinda impressed with it. Think it was 35$ a sheet. Flat and consistent. For shop furniture I think it looks pretty nice. Decided not to finish this one as lacquer makes such a mess for me. The drawer is the dust collection for the Kreg jig. I cut a hole in the top of the cabinet and the dust falls straight through. The bottom might eventually have roll outs for Kreg screws and other jigs. For the moment I put a shelf in because I’m out of slides. lso my youngest daughter decided to come out and help me along. She likes to play in saw dust piles that she finds. Her mom likes to yell at me for her doing that. ? Attachments:

Follow up posts 1) Wish my shop was half that clean! Does the power for your table saw and jointer run through the floor? 2) Thanks.. Yes, I had the outlets put in the floor for those machines. I still have a cabinet to build under the extension wing of the table saw to 'finish' that area.

Submitted on the old forum by Kev So, today's project was to finally set up the old OF table to match the new table saw. I promise if this saw goes the same way as the old one, I'm going to... Well, you know... Anyway, I got the old slots filled in and the new ones cut.. I also did a bit of cleaning up of the shop today as I'm flying on Friday. Thought I'd grab a couple pics incase anyone spotted all the new stuff and had questions.. I took the pics from opposite corners of the shop so, the only thing you really don't see is my sheet good storage which hasn't changed..

Follow up posts 1) Well, the depth of your cabinets really depends on its intended use. If you want full depth cabinets, it would be pretty simple to cut the bases to fit. Especially if building separate bases like I did on the miter station. I certainly don't see this being a show stopper for you, just a minor challenge to overcome! 2) thanks Kev! I will take a stab at building the separate base and stacking on individual cabinet sections after that. 3) That's probably the way I'd do it.. Build the bases and get them level. From there, you can build whatever you want on top of them.. Give a shout if you're struggling, I'm always happy to help. 4) I’m with Kev, build it to the depth you want and adjust the sides and toe kick to account for the unevenness, including the height of the countertop as you will be standing on the lower section.

Submitted on the old forum by bushwacked Planning ahead because I'm not 100% sure on how to tackle this ... Dimensions... The step up is about 19" deep, with siding in place probably end up around 18-18 1/4 The step up is about 1 1/4" high Should I shorten the depth of the cabinets to match the step up ... So 18" deep cabinets? Assumptions: I just factor the step up into the toekick height There's some type of lifters for cabinets I would need to install on the front insides to keep them from rocking Thoughts?? Thanks guys!

Follow up posts 1) So I have a few projects underway as part of some shop changes I am making. So I am building a platform that is 25" X 72". I want to put a couple drawers in. Initially I thought I had 24" epoxy slides, but after looking I realize I only have 16" slides. I do have 26" ball bearing slides which actually measure 25 1/2", and I'm not going to buy more, so would you build out the front or would you notch out the back of the cabinet, which will basically not ever be seen? 2) Coop. I totally agree it is a really deep drawer, but with the limited space I have for storage, I'm certain I could use it, even if I divided into sections. 3) I’ve been making more and more of my drawers, regardless of the width or depth, that have a sliding tray on the top, except those that are real shallow or that house big tools like grinders, routers, etc. 4) I’ve been making more and more of my drawers, regardless of the width or depth, that have a sliding tray on the top, except those that are real shallow or that house big tools like grinders, routers, etc. 5) When I build mine, I will cut the groove in the sides and add pieces for the tray to rest on. We recently bought a new bedroom suite and I cut, glued and screwed strips for the tray to rest on for the drawers on the dresser. My wife claimed more drawers than me so I had to make the best of what she allotted me.

Follow up posts 1) That’s a helluva bench and neat video. Thanks for sharing. 2) Great bench! Thanks for the video. 3) Pretty gadget heavy but, as long as it works for your gadgets, you should be good to go! Certainly, a lot of thought went into that design! 4) I don’t have a track saw so guess that bench is out of my league. ? Like all the niches in this hobby I’m thinking his is building useful and creative jigs. I do like that 3D router thing he used to drill the holes for the drawer.

Submitted on the old forum by bushwacked He has some pretty cool ideas for a workbench here ... Figured I'd share

Submitted on the old forum by woodenskye So I have a few projects underway as part of some shop changes I am making. So I am building a platform that is 25" X 72". I want to put a couple drawers in. Initially I thought I had 24" epoxy slides, but after looking I realize I only have 16" slides. I do have 26" ball bearing slides which actually measure 25 1/2", and I'm not going to buy more, so would you build out the front or would you notch out the back of the cabinet, which will basically not ever be seen?

Follow up posts 1) I just got back from HD ... Bought these ... This work? 2) I would be afraid of the small head on the ones you picked up. Put any substantial weight on your lumber rack and the small heads could pull through. Thats the reason I recommended the construction lags. The heads on the lags are about 1/2 inch in diameter. The are designed to take big loads. 3) Some washers might help.. 4)I got some washers as well to hopefully stop that from happening.. hopefully 5) Got it hung up and the wood moved ... Cleared up a good deal of space as well... So it's slowly coming along now getting it in shape to have a room to work again. Next up is getting rid of the other storage shelf and clear up that whole wall so I can put my jointer and DC and hopefully soon my new bandsaw there.

Submitted on the old forum by bushwacked Went cheap and decided on 2x4s and had a mix of a few ideas I saw. No clue how much it will hold but I'm hoping it's got enough screws and glue to hold up haha. Working on tearing down drywall and and will hang some wood siding to help making hang things easier. Had some extra 3 1/2" screws so each of the 4' sections got almost 40 each lol Now I'm curious how to mount to the studs... Will screws work or will I need some more heavier duty mounting equipment?

Follow up posts 1) The only LV tail vise I've played with is the inset. Can you post a couple pics? 2) I would but I have yet to figure out how to post pictures on here. I’m one of the few young ones that are not a wiz with this whole computer thing. 3) lol.. Use the "reply" option instead of the "quick reply" option. Click on add attachment and select your files. This site does limit you to 3 pictures per post.. I we grow enough, I'll pay and upgrade the site. 4) I figured it out. I was on mobile view I switched to desktop an seen what you were talking about. Thanks 5) Nice looking bench! Looks like it's great to work at! Can you post a link to the article? That would be the other half of the puzzle for me 6) Nice looking bench! Looks like it's great to work at! Can you post a link to the article? That would be the other half of the puzzle for me 7) Here you go www.finewoodworking.com/membership/pdf/40986/011162050.pdf?fww_sid=NzE1NTRkNGYzNTM2NmMzNjQzNmI2NjY0Nzc3Mzc4NTE4NWY0NzQyODIyY2M2YTExNGQwZmUwZWExODlmMjRkM2RlOWN8MTUwNTI2NzAxMQ%3D%3D&fww_token=e0f513f3f95a6b32bc6d3144575a749e It part of their members only site so it may not link right

Submitted on the old forum by tmize So I’m in the process of rebuilding my tail vise. The hardware I have is from LV. I built it about 1 1/2 yrs ago and it works but I rushed thru the build to excited about using the bench. So the problem was it wasn’t quite square to the dog holes. So I squared it up with the holes and is tracking well now. The plan was to reattach the wooden vise portion and be done. But since building it I found a article in fine woodworking to does a decent job on building it using a core blank inside the outer 8/4 shell. So my question is there another way to build it an still be sturdy without the normal slumping that normally happens with this type of vise. If I’m going to take the time to redo recutting these giant dovetails by hand again I want to last awhile.

Follow up posts 1) I'll be using these runners on all the new sleds for the new saw so, am interested in the rest of the groups thoughts as well. In the mean time, I think if I were in your shoes, I would be reaching for the sander as well. 2) Thanks for the reply, Kev. I have some adhesive backed rolls of sandpaper that I thought might work. I'm thinking I only need to sand one edge of each runner. 3) Before you get into sanding the edges you might try chamfering to bottom edges. Maybe you are getting some pinch in the corners of your miter slots. 4) I might try that first. Thanks! 5) I have tried sanding, block plane, router, table saw. All work, but a combination of block plane and sanding is best. Chet makes a good point about easing the edges. Even after you pre drill the sides can pancake a bit. 6) I'll chamfer the edges with a sanding block to see if that helps. 7) That should work. Another thing that helps is take a sharpie and do 1 edge, the miter slots should scrape the marker off where it is tight, then you can just manipulate that section. 8) So what was your outcome? 9) I ended up sanding and sanding and finally got the runners to move smoothly.

Submitted on the old forum by keggers I have plastic runners on the bottom of my panel sled. I've waxed everything there is to wax and they still fit way to snug making the sled pretty hard to move. I've pushed the sled back and forth until my arms gave out with no success. So my question is to you more experienced woodworkers is - what's the best method of slimming the runners down a bit? I'm guessing sanding, but I thought I'd see if there was another method I haven't thought of. I've attached a picture in case that helps. Thanks!

Follow up posts 1) I have seen this and agree it has some interesting things, however I wonder how much it becomes a pain switching between tasks and if any accuracy is lost. Kind of the jack of all trades, master of none deal. 2) I'm not sure that you'd loose too much accuracy as the fences aren't being moved. You may gain some gap in the 0 clearance over time but, they would be easy to duplicate. For me, I can probably count on one hand the number of times that I wanted my dado stack with my cross cut sled. Also, the panel sled opens up the use of the stack as well. One thing that I did like was the T-Track in the base for holding small parts. Again, not too sure how often that would get used but, it was a more appealing feature for my shop and flow that the insert. Regardless, it's a nice sled! You just need to really think about the work you do and your flow to decide if a sled like this is right for you. Props for a nice build! 3) Agree on the dado part. I just don't know if I would want to change so many times. I also like the t track. 4) I think the track and clamps would be nice for thin pieces that would be hard to hold tight to the fence because of the height of the fence especially for someone who may have smaller hands or even someone that may be dealing with some arthritic.

Submitted on the old forum by Chet Well as most of you know I have a lot of time on my hands right now so I find myself consuming some extra YouTube videos and I ran across this one. It is fairly long at 44 minutes but it moves along pretty well. He has some interesting add-ons to your typical sled. I think that if I were to build a new sled I would incorporate some of them.

Follow up posts 1) Unfortunately I don't think there is an ultimate solution. I guess if you find rust to be a major issue in the new shop after all the kinks are worked out, keeping your planes in a drawer might be best even though less convenient. 2) Rust isn't currently an issue in my shop. The reason I don't currently like the drawer option is totally nit picky but, I don't like bending over and opening a drawer to get them. Reality is that the current situation works just fine. I'd just like it to work better. I do think you're right in that there really isn't an "ultimate solution". I guess I'm just looking for options that I'm not seeing or may not know about. 3) My planes currently live in a drawer as well, for lack of wall space and like you, the little gel packs seem to be doing a decent job, but not entirely. Other than pics, the only cabinets I’ve seen were at Amana and in Rick’s shop in TN and I really like the looks as they are well displayed and they look better protected, aside from the humidity, which we have our share. I vote in your case, the cabinet if wall space is available.