Chet

When you get one you will never look back. Things are coming along though.

Yea Spanky that would be my first choice but I just don't have the money for that at this point. The little gig that I have that creates disposable money for tools is dead right know with the shut down. Yea that is the company I have been looking at Ken.

Thats the same reason I am replacing and not having them sharpened. My same sharpening guy is real reasonable with saw blade sharpening prices but it didn't make sense to pay to have the jointer knives done. Some of the reviews I read said something along those lines.

Bryan this is a good idea, I think I might do that. I was hoping to have the dough to by a helix head by the time I had to replace the original blades.

I don't know how it happened but the first inch or so, closest to the fence looks like the blade on a scotch tape dispenser. Last project was the morris chair and I know I would have seen that if it were there during that time. Then a couple of weeks ago I went to mill a piece of oak for my neighbor, my wood but I was milling it up for him. When I made the first pass there was about nine parallel grooves down the length of the piece. Each groove was about 1/32 wide. Looked at the jointer blades and the blade was damaged with that pattern. I have had the machine for two and a half years now.

I am having to replace my Jointer knives. I have been looking at both HSS (about $40 a set) and Carbide Tip (about $100 a set). Do you guys have any opinions one way or the other?

Sometimes all the therapy a person needs is someone to talk to and all we need to do is listen. The cutting board and coasters are a top notch move on your part. Did you do the juice grove with a router and edge guide?

Welcome Mel.

That what Have mine set at. This is a big part of increased enjoyment in the shop, in my opinion. Even though you are still in some transition in the shop its a good time to work on the habit of putting things away at the end of the day.

Could also be that different blades will hit in different spots on the ceramic so it is a separate break in so to speak.

Yea, thats a Laguna bandsaw and they have ceramic guides. I am not sure about this. My Laguna is over 4 years old and they still spark anytime there is pressure on one side of the blade like cutting a tight curve. I guess if you never re-adjust them to the blade then yea they would wear done and not touch the blade anymore. Maybe different ceramic guides act different after use.

I have the same jointer you have and I get chips left behind, not as much as you have there but I also, like the others, take really light but multiple passes. I have always attributed it to two things. #1. My jointer is right below the tracks for my overhead door and because of this I had to run a less then perfect DC route which causes me to have a "U" turn in my flex hose where it connects to the jointerand my DC is only 1 3/4 H.P. and #2. the blade spins clockwise so I figure a certain amount is going to get flicked back in the direction of the infeed table. AND maybe it is a Powermatic problem.

I figured you had seen it I was just referencing how long it was compared to yours. ?

I would have an overhang of some sort on both ends. If you want it off set I would make the short end still capable of taking the full throat depth of my biggest clamp, whether it is an f-style or parallel. Some day you are going to need to clamp something to the bench and if you don't have an over hang on one end Mr. Murphy is going to make sure you regret not having it. If down the road you do add a leg vise the 5 inch width will come in handy. With Benchcrafted you have a Dado down the center of your leg for the Criss Cross hardware and part of the dado is 2 1/2 wide. If you have enough lumber it might be worth making whichever leg you might use in the future for the vise 6 or 7 inches wide. Which leg depends on whether you are a lefty or righty. 1 inch should be fine. I think that is all Marc had on the Roubo in the guild build. As far as the gap, it can be a matter of personal preference. Again for clamping purposes can you get the head of a parallel clamp through it, but on the flip side I don't have a gap in my bench and have never wish I had it. 4 inches is probably big enough for something really nice like a block plane or hand plane to fall through and go all the way to the floor. All the opinions above are strictly those of the author. ? P.S. my bench is the same length as yours if you want a visual of what that would be like.

Looks pretty sharp Drew. Nice work.

No you should be fine without any kind of thread lock. The wood has a certain amount of spring to it and will kind of keep a constant pressure on the screw. Of course I am speaking from California where the humidity is pretty constant. I don't know what kind of humidity swings you get in Texas but I really think that if you snug them up properly you should be fine.

That is a nice bench Rick. Kind of a Roubo base and Nicholson top.

Welcome aboard Spanky.

This guy is pretty incredible

Did a little more research on this line, this is their low end model with the Smart Start feature. https://pittsburghsprayequip.com/collections/graco-air-assist-airless-sprayers/products/graco-finish-pro-7-3-stage-hvlp-turbine-sprayer Their top model is around $2100.00

Well both people I have heard using them are Pros so i am sure it is worth it. They said not at all.

I am not referring to the airless. They have an HVLP line that runs only when in use. I linked one of the models above.

This is one of the models with the on demand power technology https://fastoolnow.com/graco-17n266-finishpro-hvlp-9-0-procontractor-series-sprayer/ Its call Smart Start

Well since this conversation first started I heard Phillip Morley talking about the one he has. Its made by Graco and the model he has, the motor only runs when you pull the trigger on the gun. I am sure it is the higher end of the line but that is a feature I could get behind.

Submitted on the old forum by Kev Just an FYI for anyone else needing to replace them, it's not too difficult but, you do need to take the wheels off. The bottom wheel is the hardest one because that's also got the pulley for the belt. I used a quick grip to pull it into place so I could get the screws in it.. Once it locked in and I got the first screw going, the rest was simple. For the record, I went with the Grizzly Urethane tires. I've got a 1" resaw blade on it and will let you know how they hold up. Follow up posts 1) Kev, is yours a 17” saw, being that you have a 1” blade on it? Was part ofthe structure what prevented you from putting the top tire on or was just easier while on the ground? 2) Yes, it's the Grizzly 17" anniversary version. Stretching the tires while the wheels are on is pretty impossible by yourself! The instructions call for the removal of the wheels and they were spot on! 3) Thanks. Mines only a 14” but good to know.