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Tmize

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Everything posted by Tmize

  1. Tmize
    Never had any luck with double side tape. So I shim the front in place an shot a couple brads in thru the drawer an that will hold it in place long enough to put a couple screws in it.
  2. Tmize
    I put a coat of danish oil on mine because that is what I had on hand. After I planed mine flat I sanded it with 120 grit. An it is very grippy
  3. Tmize
    No words for what you are going thru I can think of but it is a very nice project. Thoughts an prayer are with you an your family
  4. Tmize
    I got about 5 or 6 of those little bins. The way I use them is if I’m assembling something or disassembling. I will just sit them on the bench beside as I’m working on it. To put it in a example hinges I’ll unpack them an dump the screws in one container the hinge mechanism in another an covers in another that way it’s all together. I keep one or two for when I’m refurbishing some old tools then can just pour vinegar an salt in the container an come back the next day an polish them up.
  5. Tmize
    Ethiopia, kansas right????
  6. Tmize
    Shoe mould is your friend in times like that hides the small gaps for stuff to hide in
  7. Tmize
    That actually doesn’t look bad that way
  8. Tmize
    Sorry I got confused. I thought you was asking about the pic I post directly above your post. My bad
  9. Tmize
    Just glue on a thinner piece to the front same width longer. I may be wrong can you do rabbeted half blind dovetail on a dovetail jig?
  10. Tmize
    No metal drawer guides. They fit into a pocket which the drawer moves in an out also side to side.
  11. Tmize
    The drawer side on my lil practice project I did few weeks had 1/4” sides. They was a lil flimsy but with a solid bottom cut very tight to the groove. It actually was very stiff surprisingly. With a 5/8” drawer front
  12. Tmize
  13. Tmize
    I normally make my drawer side 3/8-1/2” depending on the use of the drawer. Like the large drawer on a chest of drawer I will do like 5/8”. Most smaller drawer I’ve been doing closer to 3/8”. With the face at 3/4-7/8” thick for the half blind dt
  14. Tmize
    Well sort of first I wire brushed it to remove years of paint splatter. Then used a cabinet scraper to remove glue squeeze out an even the joint out. As brittle this is from being right up next to the roof for 50 years I’m lil scared to run it thru the planer. Afraid it would turn to toothpicks
  15. Tmize
    Sounds to me like he is just using them to support the drawer an act as a kicker. That is fairly normal in chest of drawer construction but in that case it’s a whole web frame. Since the drawer are not very big you don’t need all that support. You can barely see it in these pics but what I did here was a shallow mortise into the face frame then used a couple screws to fasten the runner off to the sides. I installed kickers after the drawer is built.
  16. Tmize
    She likes it. I’m coming around to the painted pieces finally I’m just glad I got her off the pallet wood crap. At least it’s well made an I’m I learning you have to be just as careful on the fit finish with paint as you do with clear film finish. So it’s good practice on managing plane track marks.
  17. Tmize
    So I have a few things the wife has requested for the living room. The next is a low bookcase I’ll probably journal this one. I should roll right into it I’ve got a few new things I want to try out with it. She wanted it all to match the tv console I built end of last year. This one was just a quick project nothing special m&t construction an long tapered legs. The painted portion is popular with a the top is a portion of the pine beams from the LV ceiling remodel same as the tv console.
  18. Tmize
    I have two of these squares by far my favorite layout tool. I got mine from HE also they are listed as PEC on the website. The blades are not marked PEC like my blue 6” square is. The 4” is so much easier to handle an use. edit. I lied mine are marked PEC on the blade the handle is black but the spring lock is all metal. Had to run downstairs an check after I wrote this.
  19. Tmize
    I would use the Forstner bit an then the router also. What kind of vise is it?
  20. Tmize
    Apply about a 3/8” thick piece to the front cut 1/2” longer than the drawer face. It would hide the drawers slides I assume side mount slides? If you grain match the walnut piece you have on there now. It will look like a overlay half blind dovetail.
  21. Tmize
    Coming along
  22. Tmize
    It may just be me so no offense. Why not just do a traditional m&t joint instead of a loose tenon. Routing a mortise in end grain SUCKS at least it did when I tried it. It could have just been the bit I was using a sharp straight but. That would put the mortises in the long stiles an tenons on the shorter rails the TS or bandsaw could handle with ease. I think the dowels will be a nice feature.
  23. Tmize
    It look proportional to me. Soild wood doors are heavy that all there is to that. If it is a bathroom door I would leave a bigger gap at the bottom along the sill. For two reason one expansion due to humidity from the shower. Also to help the the steam a place to escape to help the possibility of the mildew
  24. Tmize

    Opinion

    Tmize replied to Tmize's topic in General Discussion

    The middle divider is a stop dado. Which create two pockets the drawer just slide in. Little bit of wax an they slide nice in an out an the back of the case acts as the drawer stop.
  25. Tmize

    Opinion

    Tmize replied to Tmize's topic in General Discussion

    I built with no thought about what to use it for just a imagine in my head. I was probably just going to sit it up on a shelf in the shop. I thought I might could store chisels in it or something. The wife was downstairs last night with me an seen it now she has a use for it she says.
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