Tmize

The way I did mine was marked out the tenons on to the top. Then relieve cut around it with a chisel then plunge router an hogged out all the waste to depth free hand. There was some clean up with the chisel but don’t a lot. They don’t have to be super accurate a perfect if it’s to much of a friction fit you won’t ever get them all in with out a sledgehammer. Test

I carved a finger relief into the bottom of the handles. Learned I’m not a carver ?

So I made me some drawer pulls today off of y’all responds. Don’t pay any attention to the fact they are off center ?.

I’ll give that a shot an see what that looks like thanks

Yea anytime I can I will cut dovetails.

I agree a 1/4” would be about right. I’m just the opposite on contrasting wood I’ve honestly never been much of a fan. But to each their own.

So the question I have is does the drawers being so far in the case look odd to any of you? The is just a practice piece (bored in shop). So no hard feeling I inset them about 3/4”. I don’t know why I did just. I’ve went back an forth on this little box for couple months working on it from time to time between other projects. So I think I had a design change or a mismeasure some where. I build a lot of boxes as filler project to work on a certain skill this one was to see if I could making actual piston fit drawer where you push one in an it blows the other one out some to make room for air. I failed but the drawers do fit good. I had it til one of the drawers twisted a lil bit sitting an waiting before I glued it up.

I looked at it before I think that will be the most cost efficient way of going about it

The shape of the body of the plane looking down at it looks like an old coffin shape Sure does time an effort? If that’s what I had to flatten a tabletop with I’d quit. Now it’s a smoother so that would be so bad.

I know none of you much on old hand plane but I figured I’d offer these up here to. stanley #7 type 7 with S casting good user plane. This is my back up #7 works great just couldn’t get use to the adjuster being backward threads than what most are use to. No cracks or chips in body or handles $125 plus shipping stanley 110 block plane in great shape $40 plus shipping wooden coffin plane $40 plus shipping

Yea that’s great prices. It’s amazing what we will pay for wood. That will be a nice looking desk I’m looking forward to the build. I haven’t done anything with splay yet so I’m paying attention to your method.

So I was looking at some material to put on my vise faces. I came across this stuff. It’s only 1” wide if put that at the top edge of the vise would that give me the same holding power as it would if I did the whole face. My Moxon an leg vise both have toe in so would that work the way I’m thinking?https://presbond.com/products/1-16-thick-cork-rubber-tape-1-width-x-100-length-acrylic-adhesive?variant=22280978563157&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuf3uzMzL6gIVCeDICh15aQIDEAQYBiABEgKub_D_BwE

I think lee valley sells a plan very similar to that chair

Prices here that’s about $1400. Which is why I buy air dried walnut at about 15% percent moisture

The biggest difference with saws I’m figuring out is the hang angle. You want a lower hang angle if you are cutting at bench top height. But for sawing in a vise such as tenon shoulders or dovetails a higher hang angle is better.

I got a email from them today. They want to know the type of joints I would be cutting with saw an types of wood I normally use. So they could customize the tooth geometry to match the work I would doing with it. That is awesome service right there. I’ll be surprised at what they come up with. Hopefully they will share that info so I could try a mimic it myself or I may just send it back to them for resharpening depending on the wait time.

That’s quite a haul you have there. Bet that hurt writing that check

The hardest part is the wait. I’ll probably forget I ordered it til I get the last invoice for it in 3 months

My bad forgot about the sawdust

Wouldn’t it work similar to the pour between two slab on a river table

I love my LN dovetail saw an if it wasn’t for the back order that is what I would have gotten.

I’ve been using clear pva glue (gorilla glue) mixed with saw dust as filler for a year or two now. I will use it when the gap is more than I trust CA glue for

I would just glue in a new strip also that would waste expensive epoxy

That’s exactly what it is LN has it post all over their website. The backlog at bad axe is normal since they build saws one at a time an don’t start til they get the deposit first. Chet I’ve heard the same about them. Shannon Rodger brags a lot about them. A few other YouTuber say they are best filers in the business. I’m looking forward to seeing what a perfectly sharpen saw cuts like. All I have to go off is my sharpen from the factory Veritas sharpening. I know my sharpening is a lil better than theirs but there is a bias to that?. I’ve done a version of BA hybrid tooth on my 7tpi handsaw I use an like it cuts smooth. I don’t know if I could do it on a smaller tooth tho

I like the design. Are you going to add a drawer anywhere just for pens an small office supplies