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Kitchen cabinets


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2 minutes ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said:

I’m not following you on this.  Is the port inside your cabinet?  How do you plan on getting the second hose in the cabinet?

Sorry, having not paid much attention to other saws and they way they do this, I just assumed they were all the same..

The blade dust shroud goes to a 2" dust hose which goes to the 4" port at the base of the cabinet.  Yes, the 4" port is only pulling a 2" hose and nothing from the cabinet itself.

I want to drop in a 4" to 2" x 2" Y attaching one side to the blade dust shroud and the other 2" port left open in the box. 

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15 hours ago, Kev said:

The blade dust shroud goes to a 2" dust hose which goes to the 4" port at the base of the cabinet.

I never thought about this.  I figured the shroud setups would be similar.  On my saw the shroud goes right to a four inch hose.  If I let the dust collect in the bottom of my cabinet over the course of a whole year it would probably be no more then an inch or so deep.  Of course I don't do as much as Kev or push 300 sheets of ply through mine like Jamie.  I have still always been impressed with the dust collection on my saw.  

“If you don’t have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”  John Wooden

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27 minutes ago, Chet said:

I never thought about this.  I figured the shroud setups would be similar.  On my saw the shroud goes right to a four inch hose.  If I let the dust collect in the bottom of my cabinet over the course of a whole year it would probably be no more then an inch or so deep.  Of course I don't do as much as Kev or push 300 sheets of ply through mine like Jamie.  I have still always been impressed with the dust collection on my saw.  

I agree..  From memory, the DC on your saw is better than mine.  I don't think my issue is lack of suction, I think it's a poor design.

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Haven’t gotten much time in on this project the last couple weeks. Well mostly because I was waiting on picking up the line bore machine.   Took a day off work and drove up to the twin cities to pick it up. Did take a little time in getting it setup, I ended up taking the left and right end bits out to make it a 21 shot. It just seems to line up better for base cabinets being that way. 


The hole placement on a base cabinet side is pretty critical. I use a spacer to bump the drawer slide over so it is flush with the face frames. The plastic spacer is screwed into the shelf hole. I line the drawer slide up with the elongated holes. Then drill each set of holes, making sure to register off the bottom of each side. 


The upper cabinets are 42” tall so for their holes I mark center and line the bit up by eye. The bits are carbide with a Brad point. 56AF1103-6ECB-4590-BF97-BBDB135CC43B.thumb.jpeg.020febe9767ba65d8ebfede7be974612.jpeg

All the plywood is cut, dados in and groves along with the shelf holes. 


Have it all staged around the sanding table. Will hit it all quickly with 180 grit. Will knock off all sharp edges and hit the finished face looking for any scratches or dents. It goes pretty quick. 


Did get a different finish gun for this project along with the finish. 

What’s left to build is the drawers which I need to get material for yet, some crown molding along with a few other trim strips, the 1/4” cherry skins need to be cut, and build the toe kick bases. 

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On 6/24/2021 at 10:31 PM, Coop said:

Back to the originally scheduled program. Jamie, are the front of your panels flush with the front of the rails and tenons? 

Sorry coop didn’t see this till now. Yes they are. The back is also flush, all door parts are planed to .820 then ran through the shaper. After assembled they are sent through the drum sander. This set of doors cleaned up at .770. 

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2 minutes ago, Kev said:

Looking good!  I'm not sure that's the spray unit you want for cabinets though..  I have one and use it to paint the house..  Produces a lot of overspray and is a PITA to clean..

Yeah I’m a little nervous about it. Back 20 years ago at the cabinet shop we  used one very similar to it. I think it was a 495. Used that sprayer for a number of years and it was bullet proof. I didn’t think the clean up on it was to bad. Then again putting lacquer through it and not paint. All we did was flush it with lacquer thinner at the end of the day. When starting up the next day by flushing the thinner back out with lacquer or sealer. 

I did talk with a local guy who sprays finish for a living, he mentioned that the only sprayer that he uses is the graco 395 and he thought that this one would be about the same just more of a home owner model. So it’s an experiment. I did pick up some different tips than what it came with, a 311 and a 412. He recommended the 412 is what he sprays with 95% of the time. I should note he uses the exact same product that I do. 

If it doesn’t work it’s not the end of the world as I have some painting projects coming up in the next few years that it will be used for. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well it’s been kinda slow going on this project the last few weeks. I would find a random hour here and there to work on it. This weekend that changed, spent the better part of both days in the shop. 

Was talking with the client and she decided to go with plywood drawer boxes. Typically I would go with a lighter colored wood like maple or birch to make the box sides and dovetail them. So this was a little change for me.  Kicked it around on how I was going to put them together and decided just glue and screw with butt joints. The drawer sides got a 1/4 grove cut in them to accept the 1/2 bottom that gets a rabbit on the edges so it fit the grove. 57800365-4F26-41A8-9926-FE112A811D70.thumb.jpeg.3149d3907a34fecf216f27ba4fc65207.jpeg


The inside face of the drawer box gets sanded before assembly along with the bottom. 

I used a pin nailer to hold the parts in place till I could get a couple screws in. I ended up switching to the 18g nailer after a couple boxes as the pins weren’t holding very well. I then would countersink a hole and put a 1 3/4” screw in. Was really the first project that I got to use the m18 surge impact driver and was really impressed with how quiet it is. It runs pretty fast so did over drive a couple screws at the start. 6FA6E24B-E0C6-47DC-95D6-2A18767B960F.thumb.jpeg.069f3a04ec10c5716082b25ca9011cf6.jpeg

With the box assembled I took an 1/8 round over bit to the top and bottom. Trying to reduce the chances of a snag on the plywood veneer. It’s an imported plywood that I am using and the quality and veneer thickness is less than deserving of a positive comment. 


I had some latex wood filler laying around that I used to fill some of the voids in the plys. Really wasn’t to many of them to fill and is a step that I’m glad I took. 


Most of the plywood and drawers ready to get finish put on them. D652D863-BFD0-471C-94FE-8D186023E5BA.thumb.jpeg.6433f0646db1591c11d54a6c9252c3cb.jpeg6307712E-9F65-4F7A-A7F1-CAECD37606C2.thumb.jpeg.b4505963baf69e5538f2de726bd1c3e4.jpeg

Happy to say I did get all the play wood and drawers sprayed tonight. The new sprayer worked perfectly and will be ordering a little wider spray pattern tip for it. The 412 tip I got was for a different style gun and wouldn’t fit this one. Used the 311 to get by for today. I did grossly underestimate the amount of finish that I actually needed. I had 2 gallons on the sealer and 3 of the top coat. Burned them up really fast.  My brother came down today so I had him pick me up 5 gallons of each to see the project through. All the dados were glue is going to be applied get taped off. 

Am really happy with the progress this weekend. Wanted to be at this point as we are taking off for Colorado to take in some sites. 

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18 minutes ago, Kev said:

Looking great!  That is one of the drawbacks to that paint set up!  Because you have to fill the entire hose, it does use a lot more material!

I took my armoire to my brothers house today to put the primer coat on. You are right. To fill the hose probably took a pint of paint. He has made an adapter to his sprayer to reclaim the paint in the hose using air pressure. Thank goodness as I will be using Benjamin Moore paint at $75 per gallon. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry for not being around much lately. Took a little family trip and have been playing catch up since. We went to Rocky Mountain national park to take in the sites. Was a great time! 

Only work that I’ve gotten done on the cabinets is getting all the doors and face frames finish sanded. Took quite a bit of time to get through them all. I believe it was right around 7 hours of sanding time. 

This photo was taken after about 2 solid hours of sanding, the cart on the left was the progress. Will start staining as soon as I get the 1/4” ply skins cut and sanded. 

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  • 1 month later...

Hey guys sorry this has taken me so long to post. Life has been crazy and haven’t had any free time in quite a while. So the current kitchen project isn’t quite completed, the customer is ok with it not being finished yet as the contractor who is doing the remodel hasn’t shown up yet. 

Will show you guys the steps for assembly of a base cabinet in this post. Hopefully it makes sense on the Constructon style after this post. 


This cabinet is a 3 drawer base. Start with the face frame face down on the bench. I did pick up a chunk of carpet to cover the bench for $10 from a local carpet shop. Just a piece of scrap they had laying around. 672C838E-09DF-4A7E-B6A0-C4239A7DECE9.thumb.jpeg.f791905a0fd5a908c11f0b7d49173cd0.jpeg

I gather all the ply parts for the cabinet, which can be a little sorting when you first start assembly. While finishing all the parts get mixed around. The cabinet sides get pocket holes placed where they meet the face frame.  

With this cabinet getting drawers I use a spacer to mount the drawer slides to. 

Drawer slides attached while the sides are laying flat on the bench. Find this much easier than when the side is attached. 

Some glue place in the dado of the face frame. 


With both sides attached the bottom is pocket holed and glue and screwed into place. 

A cleat is then put in across the top. This is there to have something more substantial to screw through when installing. 


1/2” back is then stapled on. 779CAB28-E0B2-4823-B0B6-DD2E7E90B6AC.thumb.jpeg.375721bee9a1bcd9f6f6f8c7b40be580.jpeg

In the corners of base cabinets I put in corner blocks. Not there for only stiffness but is gives a place to attach counters to. EF83E029-C0F5-4D63-A1B2-33D95DD33B89.thumb.jpeg.1fc7a3236c0db96f0b7ee7590513b461.jpeg034C6A6E-3175-4473-838B-80123FD4508C.thumb.jpeg.a2c447da2cd0095f0ee436ba697db320.jpeg

Some shop made jigs for attaching slides to the drawers. 69ACF41A-B9B3-4B83-8B41-ABFBBFAAC98E.thumb.jpeg.fe9ccb6fffb9c5204a3b62dac0235d7e.jpeg

Drawers all in. 

For the fronts I use a Blum mounting system. Pretty slick with the inserts adjustability. 


Ran out of room for this post with pictures. The whole project was going all to well until I got into a hurry and tried to move a drying rack full of the doors. Hit a bump in the concrete and the doors fell like dominos. Long story short I ended up with a good gash on my nose and one door completely broken and a handful to fix. So by trying to save a minute it cost me about 8 hours and a bruised pride. It really turned off my motivation for the whole project and even being in the shop. Really can’t wait to have this one behind me so I can get back to making a project that I can have fun with. Don’t read into this the wrong way, I knew what I was getting into when I took this on and it has allowed me to make so nice tool upgrades. Has made me realize why I no longer work in the cabinet business. 

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  • 7 months later...

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