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Bushwacked
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Posts posted by Bushwacked
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looking great!!
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it is his stepstool is the other one ...
Are you talking about this section?
If so, I get an error about not being full member when I click on the 'Live Today' link.
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24 minutes ago, Kev said:
3. You didn't own chisels a few weeks ago. Plan for your future growth so you're not rebuilding everything as you grow.
4. Actually, you'll have to rebuild the base if you change your mind down the road. As an OF table, you'll be much too tall. I did 3 versions before landing on what I have now and wish I'd of done it at least one version ago!
dang... There's 2 free projects in there that make you a Guild member and open up these monthly meetings to you. All you have to do is log in and get them.
3) Haha!! No need to bring facts to this discussion ?
4) So I thought through that today as well ... If I go this route with a 3-4" top, it would be too heavy for my casters most likely so I would need to take those off (4" casters) and put some on like yours. Then I have the extra room needed for the big top.
Oh did not know that was an option to get in for free. Are these sessions recorded in there so I can go listen?
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3 hours ago, Kev said:
1. That would be a thin drawer! A couple thoughts... a) remove the handle on the compressor or b) build the thin pull out for layout tools which would most likely fit in a pull out that size
2. Certainly the BC hardware would fit in there but, that stuff is pretty expensive. I know there's lots of low cost videos out there that accomplish the same task. They just don't turn as nicely.
3. I prefer the standard hold fasts and store them in the leg of the bench. By paying attention to the location of their storage, they also become functional for securing a long board to the face of the bench. I so this often with longer material that I want to use a hand plane on an edge.
4. 3.5" to 4" is optimal. You could get away with only doing the front half solid and doing the back half in a torsion box.
NOTE: Don't forget that you have to cut slots for the miter gauge on your table saw..
1) Agreed, that would be way too small for a drawer above it. I will have to see about removing the handle and see if I can get some space ... we shall see.
2) gotcha, I will look around
3) dont see myself handplaning anything ... dont even own a basic block plane. Although it is on the list just for small work like chamfers and stuff, but thats about it.
4) thats big ... I am thinking I am going to go MDF/Melamine first. Test it out and install it to where I can always come back and at a thick top if needed. Especially if I get into more hand tool work, but right now DT's is about all I plan on so for the foreseeable future, thats the plan. If I go that route, I can retro fit the top easy enough to accommodate the new top.
1 hour ago, Kev said:If you have access to the WW Guild, he's doing a meeting starting now about his new OF table.. Might be some helpful hints there for you
dang ... curious what his new OF thoughts are. I am not a member of the guild.
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5 minutes ago, Chet said:
The more I think about this the more this comes to mind and it is just something to think about. If you were building this to be just an assembly table then the torsion box top is a good way to go, it provides a real flat surface. This is something that a chair builder would find indispensable. But when you start adding split tops and/or "T" tracks and holes for hold fasts or clamps you start to lose the benefits of the torsion top so the work put into building it because a wasted effort.
Hah! Yes, this has taken many different variations and looks so far. Mainly a beefy outfeed/assembly table that I can throw a moxon vise onto were the 3 big things. Extra clamping areas to help while assembling was the only reason for the paulk style holes.
And for those curious on the hardwood top ... Apparently F360 only has 1 end grain option and that is Oak haha. So for now it is an oak top. Definitely not spending the money for an oak top though.
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11 hours ago, Coop said:
And to be honest, when 2 sheets of mdf were mentioned, I used the same and quite often, that is not enough for my holdfast to grasp. Not sure what the recommended thickness is. My workbench was built in my budding days, shortly after joining this forum and I was sure I knew more than the seasoned guys on here. My bad!
Not sure either ?
Just quickly googling I found this from some random person, so take it for what its worth...
- I picked up Shwartz's workbench design book yesterday and got through the first few chapters. I was surprised to read that holdfasts don't work as well with a really thick top - as I had assumed the thicker the better. I was pleasantly surprised that he also said they are good down to about a 1.25" thick top. I had been planning on a 2" thick top and so I had written off using a holdfast.
11 hours ago, Kev said:1. Moxon vise is cool as is a home for the compressor! Would suggest measuring the height of your compressor and get max usage of the space.
2. Depending on your leg dimension, a leg vise is absolutely doable at a later time.
3. Holdfast or the clamps that @Chetmentioned are super handy on a table like this! When you're using those new chisels chopping DTs, you'll be happy that you can secure the work!
4. I'd seriously try to find a way to do a solid top. It's just something you won't regret! Even if you did poplar and then added a piece of replaceable hardboard to protect it, you'd be so much happier!
5. See the above answer. You could add hold fasts by lowering your drawers about 3" to 4", you'd have the beef that you're looking for, you'd get the benefit of the split, and it would last you a lifetime!
1) Right now the height of the opening is 19". The top of the handle on my air compressor puts it right around 17 1/2" so it should be a snug fit.
2) What type of leg vise would you recommend? One like you have on yours? Or something else/cheaper? I will look into and see if my leg sizing would be compatible just in case.
3) agree, more than likely will go with the ones Chet mentioned, as I can use those elsewhere too if needed. The holdfasts are a one trick pony and I dont think I need those just yet.
4/5) Hmmmm, how thick of a top you think it would need to be? With this being on casters it is starting to get pretty heavy with a solid top on it. I will work on drawing something up .. Maybe 8/4 poplar cut into 1 1/2" width pieces, which would probably make it around 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 by the time milling is done.
10 hours ago, Jamie said:I have a melamine top on my outfeed table. Absolutely love it! Super easy to clean any glue off. I used a 3/4 sheet screwed to a 3/4 sheet of mdf. Put some solid wood trim around it and left a couple inches of overhang to be able to clamp to it. Did you ever think of mounting your air compressor up high on a wall? I know that is where mine is going to be moving to. Would possibly save you enough room to add to the hand tools collection that way. ? With the melamine top I think you could do away with the craft paper roll. It is so easy to clean and durable.
Here is my first take on this layout .. 2 - 3/4 MDF sheets and then 1 Melamine sheet on top with some t track in there.
I dont have any high wall space open where the compressor would be able to sit, otherwise that would be a great idea. Glad this top would help me get rid of the paper roller and save a little $$ there.
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33 minutes ago, Kev said:
Questions, thoughts, and opinions.. Take all for what they're worth, in the end, it's your work flow and this has to work for you, not me! It's also your money!
- What's the big open area for?
- Thinking of adding any vises? I mention this because the torsion top is not conducive to adding a vise. Although, a leg vise would work with this design
- Holdfasts? Again, the torsion top is not conducive for this. You would also need some room above the cabinet for them to drop in.
- I'm not a fan of the Paulk design. To me, things would get lost deep in the abyss and that's the thing I'd need next..lol
- I really like the split top! You'd have to do at least 1/2 solid to pull this off but, it gives you extra clamping in the middle, it gives you a backstop for planing against, and gives you a nice track for a saw blade if you need it.
You've obviously given this one a lot of thought! Just trying to toss stuff at you that I see. There's videos and plans for mine that you're welcome to.. Plans are free on my website.
1) Big open area is for air compressor and hopefully moxon vise if they both fit. It gets my compressor safely off the floor and not worried about hitting it with wood. I dont have much open space out of the way to store one, so it sits on the cart for now.
2) The only vise type thing I was thinking of for now is the moxon I was going to build. Is a leg vise able to be added later?
3) did not think of any holdfasts as this isnt necessarily a workbench where I would be hand planing or any of that stuff. I guess they could help with clamping projects down if needed though. However, as you stated, this design is not very conducive for them. Not sure what kinda crazy project they would help me hold still though.
4) Hah! I am in the same boat, not a huge fan, but I put those in the for mainly just giving an area for my clamps to get in and grab to. Maybe with the thickness of my frame I could use that instead and then I would not need the paulk holes?
5) If I did the split top ... would I need to do butcher block top or is that not 100% necessary? Possibly just throw some 2x"X" pine up there and be good?
14 minutes ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said:So this is more assembly and outfeed table? I would fill the thing with drawers and not the Paulk style cut outs. Make the top out of MDF 2 layers think and then put some laminate on top. For clamping I would do t track or holes like the Festool MFT. The size is fine if it fits in your shop.
Yes, the vision is outfeed and assembly that can hold a little bigger of projects. I run into the issue of just missing being able to stabilize my project by just a few extra inches quite a bit for some reason ... and then throw my moxon vise on top for when I become a magician with hand cut dovetails ?
Hmmm .. I the T Track idea if I go the MDF route. Dont have to worry about anything below, like the cabinets getting in the way then.
9 minutes ago, Chet said:I know a guy that as a torsion top on his out feed and put in a grid pattern of holes and uses this type of clamp instead of hold fasts. I would prefer holdfasts my self but there are options for your design.
Yea, I have a couple of these Paulk holes in my outfield and Kev is right stuff gets lost. I don't really store anything there any more but when using my nail guns it is a nice place to set it between shooting nails and setting up the next parts to get fastened.
Love ratchet clamps, they are quickly becoming some of my favorite little go to clamps.
6 minutes ago, Coop said:You mention needing more beef but I like Kev, I question the torsion top. I agree with Bryan on the mdf top. I know I couldn’t build a torsion top to be flatter than mdf . Otherwise, I like it bud!
Hmmmm ... valid point haha. So if I just go double MDF top, then I should just raise the legs the extra height of the now missing torsion box and maybe add another drawer and just make a deeper drawer?
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So after building version 1 and using it for a year or so now? I have had enough new thoughts, complaints from it that I built a newer version.
The big things I was needing:
- a slightly bigger top. So this one is going to be 48"x40"x34" (previous was 48x32x34)
- Drawers, the current one could have them, just never got around to it. This will have 6 drawers holding a lot of my assembly tools needed and my new dovetail things ?
- clamping areas, this is what the Paulk style holes are for in the side, but a torsion top as well to hopefully achieve a flat'ish top
- 1 side will have an area to hang a roll of brown craft paper, the other side will hold smaller hand clamps, like the kreg and the dewalt squeeze clamps and all of that.
- one of the MAJOR things, I needy more beef, so this will be hardwood, most likely Pine structure as it is cheaper.
- It will be on wheels as well, just dont know how to do wheels in Fusion 360 ?
- The open space will store my air compressor and maybe the moxon vise that will be coming as well. If not, then some other low use hand tools like my wrench set etc.
- Trying out a melamine top for slippery outfeed and glue cleanup.
Does anyone see any clear issues with something like this? Hoping to get going on this this week maybe.
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I do my best testing in production too ?
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9 hours ago, Chet said:
Also I would think that the wood glue could effect how the area took stain if stain was going to be part of the finish program.
I was thinking the same with this one when I did it ... now I either sanded amazingly well and got all the glue off of where it did not belong, or the darker stain helped cover it up? Either way, I looked for signs and could not see anything on the corners.
Going forward though I will definitely be using the CA glue trick as like Kev mentioned, the dry time is so much better.
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31 minutes ago, Kev said:
Curious why you're doubling up on the chisels with the Narex and the Japanese? Unless I missed something I would drop the Japanese ones.
Also, you do realize that the chisels you picked are metric right? That's not necessarily a bad thing. Just remember that if you're shooting for a perfect 1/2" cut, you'll be doing it in 2 swipes with the metric chisel. From memory, I think Marc does (or did) it this way.
Ah ... no doubling on chisels it was Narex or Japanese.
The Japanese seem to have solid reviews and from everything I have read hold a great edge too ... so just figured I would toss them out as an option as they are pretty much the same price as the Narex set I was looking at.
Since I am new to the handcut DT, is 1/2" a popular size?
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I am ready ?
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So this has been a slippery slope ever since my goof on the coffee table. When Kev through out the idea using chisels to correct the problem ... I have gone from chisels, to sharpening them, to now DT and the the tools needed there.
So far, I still just have everything in my shopping carts because I am not sure .. For DT equipment I have been looking at:
J Katz Moses DT Block: https://www.katzmoseswoodworking.com/new-products/81-clear-urethane-katz-moses-magnetic-dovetail-jig-and-90-degree-crosscut-guide
SUIZAN Japanese DOZUKI Dovetail Hand Saw 7 Inch: https://www.katzmoseswoodworking.com/new-products/suizan-japanese-folding-dozuki-dovetail-saw-95-inch-k375m
Buy both those together from J Katz and there is a 15% discount. Puts it at $61 for the combo.
Marking Gauge: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B3ZS2J2/ref=crt_ewc_title_oth_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2FYHGC4NSM6WF
Marking Knife: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FAMG8J0/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Fret Saw: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ATPMHN4/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A7O51HGOUZ91S
Chisels --
Or
HACHIEMON: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TT3VCJD/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1J84LOS58TPNV
Then for sharpening ...
SHAPTON Ha No Kuromaku Ceramic Whetstone: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FYEYKEI/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3TCNCNGLOHBSA
DIA-FLAT LAPPING PLATE: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FUHTDG/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
What are yalls thoughts? Anything I am missing or anything that could be switched out?
Also, since I dont have a workbench with a vise, I would also need to build one of these Moxon Vise:
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Ah I didn’t know he taught for mark, that’s cool. I guess that would explain why his YouTube dried up.
wimberley is just south of Austin ... so kinda close to both of us. Like a 3 1/2 hour drive for me.yes all that makes sense ... need to refine my technique a little ?
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So I always enjoy watching people’s ‘ how to mill’ videos and see if I can pick up anything to improve my flow ... a new guy I found, Philip Morley ... who is not super active it appears, which is a shame .. went over his tips.
my question is more surrounding the pressure or lack there of while jointing... this is something I’m pretty much the opposite on. I’ve always put more pressure while jointing but maybe I am wrong? How are y’all doing it?
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14 minutes ago, Chet said:
Poplar can be a challenge to stain the colors in a single piece can be green, gray all the way to the color of balsa wood then over time it changes color and the stain color you think you had will no longer look like that. Now if this is something that they might want painted then poplar would be a good choice.
Yes, the poplar would be for only painted parts .. Then pine for the stained part like a top or shelves or something. Figure that might be easier than dealing with all pine?
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I mean I may have to give you a hard time about how your door is not flush ? other than that it looks amazing and like Kev said you probably shouldn’t loose sleep over it.
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thoughts on this sharpening set?
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That is what I was thinking ... a 2" x 6" by 8' is about $1.44 BF ... not sure what my dealer sells if for though as I have never asked.
Although, I have been debating on whether I should go the route of poplar for as much as I could and then if they really wanted the stained knotty look, use that for the tops or pieces that they want stained.
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I’m curious how annoying is working with pine? I’ve never don’t much with it like the Big box stores pine vs my lumber dealers pine? Is there sap and stuff that will clog up my blades etc? Is one place better than the other to buy from?
Had a request for some farmhouse stuff but not sure how much of a pain it is to work with.
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3 hours ago, Jamie said:
Nice job! Looks right at home in your living room!
Thanks! Wife really likes it so I guess I did good.
2 hours ago, Kev said:Judging by the pillows on the couch, I'm assuming your wife wasn't happy with your work? ?
Turned out great bud!
A little CA glue and sanding without DC would have tidied up that gap for you.. Quick and simple trick..
Haha! the kiddos were running free while we were cooking. So they destroy the couch and throw pillows everywhere for some reason.
thanks!Hmmm gonna have to remember that trick in the future.
2 hours ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said:Nice work Drew! I won’t hold setting up for Christmas already against you, your wife can take that bullet. ?
Hah! Thanks!
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oh didnt know it destroyed that too ... that sucks! Maybe this is a sign you should upgrade to the Shelix head ? ... that is random that it just exploded like that without hitting something or the board exploding as well with it causing the issues
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wow! well, glad it didnt completely blow up the machine ... you have any spare blades of are you having to order another set?
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oooh crap, scary stuff!!
was this end grain for face grain?
Planer
in Power Tools
Posted
Hah! Gotta love the trade secrets over there of 'not giving out the password' ? ... good to hear you got it worked out! You order it then?