Kev

Picture isn't showing up for me.. Anyone else having this issue or is it just me?

Second video is up!

You're getting into Nordfab pricing there 🤣🤣

The Makita issues weren't part of the miter saw video but, BW is correct which is why I mentioned it..

Sad to hear this review as this is my second favorite saw on the market and probably the one I would have gotten if I needed to replace the Kapex. Assuming the Makita you picked up is a slider, check it for square when extended. Thanks for posting the information Jamie!

I think you could actually install 2 on each side and be fine. I also think you could install 2 in the back as well but, I don't think they're really needed.

I would have left them out of the face frame purely for expansion reasons. This would have allowed the piece to move in the front while maintaining your scribe work at the back wall. You could remove those screws from the front ones and let it sit for a year. Then, recheck it a few times during that year and see where your original holes are. Just a thought. If it's going to move, it should move soon.. Typically, the winters are the dry time and the summers are the humid times.

Your chances would be better if the figure 8s weren't directly opposing each other and installed at an angle but, it still depends on how much expansion happens in the top. I would have just put them on the back and the sides. If there's only slight movement, it will probably be fine. If there's a lot then, something's gotta give and I'd guess it will be the front face frame. This is a good conversation! We're all here to learn and get better. In this particular case, I hope I'm completely wrong.

The issue I see is the figure 8s on the front and back.. The material is going to move across the grain and those figure 8s are going to attempt to stop that movement.

I hope this holds up for you..

Like @Coop, I went back and looked at the original pic as well. Because of the paint, it's difficult to tell if it's MDF but, if it's a stock cabinet, chances are it is MDF. It also looks like you have room to install about a 2" X 2" block on the sides. You'd have to measure to be sure. Then, just a couple screw up through those in some oversized holes. Or, you could use the figure 8's in the new blocks. 3/4 is enough for figure 8's but, I'd go thicker if you have the room. Silicone would also hold and wouldn't restrict movement. I'm just not sure how well it would hold up.

Figure 8s - If the cabinet is MDF, I don't think I would do figure 8s. Screws are suspect as is in the face of MDF and absolutely crap in the end grain. Mounting - I think I would install mounting strips to the cabinet on the sides and install from there. Oversize the holes to allow for wood movement.

They put that disclaimer on there just in case something stupid happens and their can fails. Just a liability protection. It's certainly not wrong to add a piece of safety gear like this but, I question why in a small hobby shop like ours? If you put the oily rag in the can, you still have to empty it when the rag is dried up. The only difference is that if the rag catches fire, it's contained in that can. I just lay mine flat on the shop floor and pick them up the next morning. If they catch fire there, worst thing I'll have is a small burn mark on the floor.

I think you can really get away with any width you want that best fits the room. I think there are some obvious limits but, I wouldn't feel constrained by "rules" since it's being designed for a specific space.

I always start with a pen and paper to make a list of known requirements for any piece. For you (based on your post) these would include storage for other electronic gear, hold a TV of a size you choose, and perhaps fit a particular space. From there, I would draw a couple rough sketches that contain your requirements until I had a basic design that I liked. For me, I would next go to Sketchup to put the piece to scale and then start tweaking things until I thought I had what I was looking for. Even though I nearly always go to you for my IT needs, I'd be happy to help you with the Sketchup stuff.. Just to add one more consideration for you, you could also consider a cabinet that the TV lowers into when you don't want to see the TV.. The hardware for these has really gotten reasonable. If you're considering this, some of your needed dimensions will come from that hardware.

She's a mutt from the pound.. My wife has found a couple breeds that really resemble her but, we honestly have no idea. I do know that she's really smart! Sometimes too smart!

First video is up..

I put it over their wipe on Poly all the time without issue. If you're concerned, use a coat of Shellac first.

General Finishes High Performance should do the trick for your top coat. Preferrded application method would be to spray but, I've seen people apply with foam brush..

Yea, I knew Schwarz talked about this finish in a video I saw someplace..

I've got the Osmo but, haven't used it yet.. I've done a few projects with the Rubio now and really like it! The Rocker was finished with Tried and True. It wasn't sanded as high as he suggested. That finish has held up amazingly well over the years! I haven't used Odies on anything but, might have to pick some up and give it a go.

First video for this project will drop on Saturday.. That's when I'll move this piece to the public forum.. Official due date for the baby is May 13th.

Looking great! CNCs are tough because you have to account for so much movement. I think Frank Howarth did a tour of his machine and DC.. You might have a look at his channel and see what he did.

I noticed some of this "twist" issue with the longer hoses, it is a pain in the back side and can be worse when winding the hose back up. I went to drops off of my dust collector with shorter hoses just hung on a hook and it seems to work much better. I've moved the shop vac out of my shop completely and extra space is a good thing! As for the fittings, I think Dust Right (Rockler?) has some fittings that may work for you as well? I haven't used them so, will let the others chime in on those.

Thanks for the kind words Coop! The Rip Flip uses the bolt holes that were already in the rail. I did have to remove the power switch to get that one bolt in but, that wasn't a big deal. It's a pretty quick install.