Jump to content
Title of the document

Kev

Administrators
  • Posts

    6,303
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    575

Everything posted by Kev

  1. Put this video together before I left to go over the stuff I have/use at the table saw..
  2. Clean the rollers with rubbing alcohol. I would also run some different lumber through the planer to ensure it's the rollers causing this or if that's in the wood you've got there. See if this happens with a chunk of maple
  3. You would certainly have to get creative. Use 2 45s to create more of a sweeping corner. Might be a complete wash between hard piping and using the flex.. Flex also reduces the suction.
  4. I think I'd consider coming down in a corner and running a hard line just under the rack on the wall. If that's possible?
  5. My scraper is so old and worn! Time for a replacement for me!
  6. I have a couple thoughts.. 1. I would try and run your hard pipe further to increase the efficiency of your DC. If it's even possible for you? 2. I would run a drop for each machine and just add a Y and a couple blast gates. This way you're not moving hoses around when you want to use a tool. I would do this for the planer as well. 3. The "monstrosity" might look a little better with some brick veneering on it? Or at a minimum painted. All in all, it's coming along nicely!
  7. I think @Woodenskye (Bryan)is correct in that there is no "rule of thumb". When I did the coffee bar, all of those strips were of the same size and looking at it now, I wish I had mixed up the widths a little bit.
  8. Looking forward! Rarely are house walls straight!
  9. Yep.. Pretty common once you get out this way to see Doug Fir or Hem Fir..
  10. Thanks! I think my wife is taking this one to them around mid month. She's making a quick trip for the baby shower. Between this and the cradle, there's just too much to haul and keep protected.
  11. Ok.. That won't do anything to "pop" the grain but, it's helpful often times with water based finishes. A water based finish will raise the grain of the wood leaving a "fuzzy" finish that's just not smooth to the touch. Spritzing it with water before finish and then sanding it back will he reduce this effect when using a water based finish.
  12. Interesting choice of finish that I'm not sure I'd thought of using.. Typically, mineral oil is used. I'm curious to see how the baby oil holds up. I'm a little puzzled.. I don't know of any water trick to make the grain pop. I know you can pre-raise the grain with water (which isn't needed in this case) and you can add some dye to get it to sink into the grain and then sand it back but, I'm not quite sure what you're referring to? The few times I've done this, I think I used alcohol and dye.
  13. Nicely done! If you never make mistakes, you'd have nothing to learn! What species are the thin dark strips? Also, what finish did you use? I need to do one of those cheese boards.. Just not sure I want my wife to see them 😉
  14. Kev

    New member

    When working in OK, I work a lot in Enid and my company is based in Tulsa. I live in NW Montana (Kalispell) near Glacier National Park..
  15. Not completely randomly..lol. My original shop was built by me as a recording studio. So, I had a lot of research into sound proofing and controlling standing waves in a room as that's what causes microphone feedback.
  16. @Bushwacked, happy to help with the answer.. Although I don't consider myself an expert, I did a lot of research and actually applied the concepts.. Subwoofer boxes are made from MDF because it's cheap. The "sounds" that come out of a sub are a mono tone so, are not slowed down by standard construction materials. The only thing you and do with those mono tones is to redirect the bouncing frequencies as many times as possible until they dissipate. This is also why most sub boxes have different shapes. Think of someone in a car with the bass turned up and that's the only thing you can hear 6 cars away. You know the rest of the music has to be loud as well. All of the higher pitched frequencies are completely reduced by the materials of the car but, the bass tones completely come through. It's these mono tones that are the ones carrying farther than BW wants. I hope that helps? Good luck with the kiddos!
  17. Welcome to the forums! Some beautiful work there for sure! I look forward to seeing more!
  18. Yea, I'll be here until early April.. Just finished one job and have one more to go.. It's the right time of year to be cold in Kalispell...lol I'm actually looking forward to being there long enough to actually enjoy the 4 seasons.. lol
  19. I was so intrigued by the "muffler" that I ordered one for my system.. Going to give it a test drive when I get home.. Will probably be a little late for your needs but, just wanted to toss it out there..
  20. Kev

    Plans

    I'm extremely hesitant to post a link here! Afraid we'll all be the target after that!
  21. Thanks.. First time in 35 years I've been able to let it grow out for more than a couple weeks.
  22. This is a great idea but, I'd use thinner rigid insulation with a lathing strip between to create an air gap. Air gaps like that are really good for sound proofing!
  23. Turned out great! If you're ever in need for that high grit pad, a paper bag will do that for you as well..
  24. There's a lot of science behind sound proofing. While your theory appears solid, that's not quite how it works. The 2 items together will do better but, not my those numbers. I was able to do pretty well in my studio. The sounds you're talking about were actually the easiest to control. These were the mid to high frequency sounds and they were actually controlled with the construction of the walls. In my case, each opposing wall was layered slightly differently because this also helped. On one wall I would do a layer of soundboard, a lathing strip (to create an air space) and then a layer of 5/8 drywall. On the opposite wall, it would be a double 5/8" drywall with the lathing strip between. The foam you're referring to is for the purpose you reference but, not for the purposes of sound proofing. It's to control those frequencies that cause feedback on microphones. I have truck loads of Auralex foam in my studio and it works well to cut down on the natural reverb in a room. They also make it in decorative forms for those of you with theatre rooms that would like a little better audio quality. One last item but, I don't thing this is really an issue for BW. Low frequencies are not touched by the foam! The only thing that deadened that was the way the walls were layered in my studio. My studio was ~15' from my house. My wife would tell me if she turned the TV off and make the house quiet, she could hear the kick drum and sometimes the bass guitar but, that was it. Sorry for being long winded.. Probably more info than anyone really wanted...lol
×
×
  • Create New...