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Coop
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Everything posted by Coop
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Just had a thought. How should I treat the installation of the jamb if it’s walnut? Painted, the nail holes would be filled and sanded. I’m thinking of prefinishing it, like the door, prior to installation?
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And to be honest, when 2 sheets of mdf were mentioned, I used the same and quite often, that is not enough for my holdfast to grasp. Not sure what the recommended thickness is. My workbench was built in my budding days, shortly after joining this forum and I was sure I knew more than the seasoned guys on here. My bad!
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Ok, walnut it is. Framers will be here tomorrow to start, so I’ll fetch me some walnut on Wednesday. I cut some 1x’s today to represent walls and some scrap ply to represent vanities and laid them out on the slab. Sure looks different than on paper. This monster bathroom just became very modest. ? Thanks all!
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You mention needing more beef but I like Kev, I question the torsion top. I agree with Bryan on the mdf top. I know I couldn’t build a torsion top to be flatter than mdf . Otherwise, I like it bud!
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I am mostly out of the original walnut and would have to buy some from one of my suppliers. Probably one of my biggest concerns is a mismatch in colors between mine and theirs. Is this a valid concern?
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I’m thinking also about the painter cutting into the walnut jamb, and future paintings.
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At this point, price is not a consideration. I can always start a go fund me. ? I’m definitely not one for an eye for design. Thanks
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I’ve toyed with the idea of walnut for the jamb but have looked at pics of walnut as the jamb, and also with walnut as the trim and jamb. To me, the walnut jamb alone doesn’t seem to add much to it. Google walnut doors and jambs, or something along those lines, and give me your opinion. Other opinions welcome.
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Yeah, I thought about building it myself. I am buying kiln dried maple, per Chet’s suggestion, to give to the trim guy to help insure no cupping. My thought, if it doesn’t fit, it’s on him.
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Chet, I have used this a couple of times from Steve’s suggestion but don’t remember when and where. Given the size and weight of theses glass panels, will they eventually move to the bottom of the frame? Plan right now is to give the door to the trim guy to build a frame or jamb, not sure which is correct. Once it is hung to my satisfaction, I will remove it and lay the door flat and install the glass. I bet the Lexel does not hold it from dropping down, even with the strips in place?
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I’ve heard of the CA trick but never seen it demonstrated. I’m sold. Thanks.
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Is there a reason you didn’t use a chamfering bit in a hand held router instead of using a hand planer for the bottom profile of the top? Did you have stop lines on the edge and face?
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Cool video bud, especially drilling for the drawer dowels. I honestly believe that I would have blown thru half or more of the sides from not drilling plumb and square. I would have made a jig by drilling a 3/8” hole thru some 2” hardwood on my dp as a guide but obviously you didn’t have to go that route! Good job.
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He’s a lucky guy as Wimberly is a neat little town at the edge of the hill country.
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I like your way of thinking! When I first inquired, I was told that it would be 1/8” glass so I mortised to accommodate. Later, when I ordered the glass, the owner said since it was in a door, it should be thicker. Honestly, I think it will be ok either way. Wife won’t know the difference? I’m leaning towards flush.
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I am out of reactions for today so here’s a ? That’s 20 pieces to take off a blades width but being a bit ocd, I feel the need?
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Yes sir. When I first inquired, they said the glass was to be 1/8” and it came in as 1/4”. And yes, if I trim, it will be on the side that fits against the glass. Thanks
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Kev and others. The little mullions or muntins or whatever the glass retaining strips are called, are proud of the door by approx 1/8”, and that’s without the Lexel sealant. It looks good and feels good but should they be flush with the door? If so, it means cutting them down and putting a protective finish of sort on the bare wood. I doubt seriously that anyone going thru the door would notice or question right or wrong.
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Had to bore you guys one more time for a while. 2 coats of ARS and four coats of GF, HP satin. I picked up the glass yesterday and had to get a sneak view of how it will look. Next post will be in about 6 weeks, hopefully, when it is installed.
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Glad you are physically ok. I had something similar but not nearly as severe. I had an old secondhand Delta and a blade threw about a 1/4” piece. I didn’t know it until the board came out with the same size rise in it. Upon investigating, I found that a splinter of wood had become lodged between the blade and hold down strip. IMO, you can’t go wrong by asking Santa for a 735.
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Very well done and you handled the oooops to where you almost made it completely go away!
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I hope every member and guest have a wonderful Thanksgiving, in spite of the virus crap. Stay safe and God bless.
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I guess depending on the project. Currently building and finishing a door and between coats, I have used 400 grit. After two coats of ARS and 4 coats of wb Polly, the final sanding was done with a crumpled up piece of brown paper bag. Rubbing your finger across, you can’t tell where stile meets rail.
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I’ve used mine 6 or 8 times and no leak at all. With me spraying the door with 6 total combined coats, I can imagine the pia trying to lean over in the middle with the large hose, spraying the stiles. Money well spent!
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Or a friend with a tax id number. And you can pay the tax when you purchase it so your friend won’t have to later.
