Kev Posted November 22, 2023 Author Share Posted November 22, 2023 28 minutes ago, Coop said: So hopefully, the clean out for his ts is accessible without moving the table? Well, admittedly, we didn't do enough talking/designing around the DC so, may create an issue in the future. We didn't consider his DC out on his saw (which also has an over arm collector) so, may create an issue with the cabinet we installed. On the bright side, there should be enough room in that cabinet to allow him to do what he needs to go.. I'll let @Olie go into how that actually fits up to his saw and what he'll need to do to correct any issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted November 22, 2023 Share Posted November 22, 2023 Just thinking. The dc system in my shop leaves a lot to be desired on my ts but on other appliances, it’s amazing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted November 22, 2023 Author Share Posted November 22, 2023 1 hour ago, Coop said: Just thinking. The dc system in my shop leaves a lot to be desired on my ts but on other appliances, it’s amazing. What we missed was the location on the saw.. I'm just not sure yet if this will be an issue on this bench.. I'm sure he'll need a day or 2 to get things in place and assess it see if it's going to be an issue or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olie Posted November 22, 2023 Share Posted November 22, 2023 The dust collection may be a work around but I won’t know until I get the table close to the back of the saw. I think I have 3 options. 1. cut a hole in the sander cabinet and route a pvc or flex hose through it. 2. I have an existing butcher block about 1.75” thick and there’s a channel off the back of my saw and I could cut a strip off the blutch block and fit it in the channel in the pick and screw in the holes in the bottom of the channel to attach the butcher block strip. Would just need to cut a strip deep enough off the back to allow a little room for the dust collection hose which I estimate I’ll need about 3 to 4 inches. This option just extends the depth of my bench and my bench would then be leveled to this strip off the back. 3. glue or screw more of the same maple boards used to build my top to the back of my workbench top to allow room for the dust collection. I’m kind of leaning towards option 2 at this point because it seems like the easiest and doesn’t alter my existing bench but I’ll keep everyone updated on what I do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted November 22, 2023 Share Posted November 22, 2023 If option 1 doesn't work or is going to end up looking like a bad after thought, I think I would take the time and go with option 3. Option 2 sounds like it might end up looking like a Frankenstein project. Take some time and think it through. Even if you leave your outfield bench back from the saw by 2 or 3 inches from the saw to make the DC work for now, the bench will still serve its purpose. 2 Quote "Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not; remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." - Epicurus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olie Posted November 23, 2023 Share Posted November 23, 2023 @chet yeah I think I just need to wait until I get the table up by the saw. Not sure I think option 2 will look like a Frankenstein since it will just be maple up against maple, but will see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted November 23, 2023 Share Posted November 23, 2023 1 hour ago, Chet said: If option 1 doesn't work or is going to end up looking like a bad after thought, I think I would take the time and go with option 3. Option 2 sounds like it might end up looking like a Frankenstein project. Take some time and think it through. Even if you leave your outfield bench back from the saw by 2 or 3 inches from the saw to make the DC work for now, the bench will still serve its purpose. I agree with Chet it is such a nice piece if needed take the time and go with option 3. FWIW long sections of flex pipe work just fine even if folks tell you different. I have used this set up for two decades without issue. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted November 27, 2023 Share Posted November 27, 2023 Realizing that all ts are configured differently but sitting here looking at mine, there is adequate room on the side of my cabinet to cut a square hole for another port and if faced with your situation, that’s what I would do. The dc on my saw leaves a lot to be desired as the majority of the dust is dumped towards the front (direction of the blade) and my port is in the back. I think I just talked myself into adding a second port! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olie Posted November 27, 2023 Share Posted November 27, 2023 On 11/22/2023 at 5:45 PM, pkinneb said: I agree with Chet it is such a nice piece if needed take the time and go with option 3. FWIW long sections of flex pipe work just fine even if folks tell you different. I have used this set up for two decades without issue. Nice set up. Is that some type of manifold system? Did you design that or use a plan you found? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olie Posted November 27, 2023 Share Posted November 27, 2023 Well the good news is that after setting the new bench in place against my saw it doesn’t appear that I will need to do any modifications if I don’t want to and feel like the bend isn’t too much which it doesn’t seem to be. The only thing I could do is attach something to fit in that weird bar off the back of the saw but I don’t know if it’s really needed at this point. Might be a bad spot to collect dust but can blow it out or vacuum frequently. Leave it as is it come up with a solution to fit into bar? I think this bench is going to be a joy. I have my 8” jointer nice and tight against the saw to be more compact and have ample room before the saw and around the new bench. With it’s current configuration I have 99 inches from the garage door to the blade, and I like my extra large ruobo off the wall to have access all around it and with it 4ft off the back wall I still have slightly over 8ft between benches. If I do have a big project (I.e. a king bed) I can push the ruobo against the wall and I have just over 12ft between benches. Can’t wait to continue working on this bench and finish it up. I have the leveling feet and holdfasts ordered and will order the leg vise soon. Next will be finishing out the cabinets underneath that I’ll pick all your brains on soon. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted November 27, 2023 Author Share Posted November 27, 2023 So, here's what I did on the rail and it works well.. Fills in that gap nicely and still leaves room for the DC.. Here's mine which obviously needs to be cleaned! If I wanted/needed more room back there, I would just laminate another piece(s) on until I had enough room to keep the saw in tact and allow enough room.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted November 28, 2023 Share Posted November 28, 2023 19 hours ago, Olie said: Well the good news is that after setting the new bench in place against my saw it doesn’t appear that I will need to do any modifications if I don’t want to and feel like the bend isn’t too much which it doesn’t seem to be. The only thing I could do is attach something to fit in that weird bar off the back of the saw but I don’t know if it’s really needed at this point. Might be a bad spot to collect dust but can blow it out or vacuum frequently. Leave it as is it come up with a solution to fit into bar? I think this bench is going to be a joy. I have my 8” jointer nice and tight against the saw to be more compact and have ample room before the saw and around the new bench. With it’s current configuration I have 99 inches from the garage door to the blade, and I like my extra large ruobo off the wall to have access all around it and with it 4ft off the back wall I still have slightly over 8ft between benches. If I do have a big project (I.e. a king bed) I can push the ruobo against the wall and I have just over 12ft between benches. Can’t wait to continue working on this bench and finish it up. I have the leveling feet and holdfasts ordered and will order the leg vise soon. Next will be finishing out the cabinets underneath that I’ll pick all your brains on soon. Awesome shop!! 19 hours ago, Olie said: Nice set up. Is that some type of manifold system? Did you design that or use a plan you found? I saw it somewhere and copied it to work for my set up. It has worked well for many years. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted January 13 Author Share Posted January 13 Video is now up and available.. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted January 15 Share Posted January 15 Great video Kev and the sound is good again on my end. Good professional editing as well. You guys busted butt and did a great job. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted January 15 Author Share Posted January 15 44 minutes ago, Coop said: Great video Kev and the sound is good again on my end. Good professional editing as well. You guys busted butt and did a great job. Were some long days for sure! Looking forward to seeing @Olie finish this one up! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olie Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 Slow going but had a lot of family stuff come up. I did get the piece attached to the back to fit against the saw. I did discuss with Kev and he drew up a quick image. The plan was to attach a matching maple board to the back of my saw and gave it fit around the c-channel to butt up right against the cast iron top of my saw. I needed a piece 2.5 inches wide so I had to glue two boards together and the thickness would be milled to fit above the bottom of the c-channel and a groove cut to fit the top of the c-channel. Once I got everything cut I loosely fit it to the saw and realized something I missed. I couldn’t fully go over the top of the c-channel and butt it up against the cast iron top because the way the fence is designed it rides/slides on a rubber-like piece on the top of the c-channel. I just cut the top of the piece to ride over the c-channel as far as I could without getting in the way of the fence. After I was satisfied I glued the board to the back end and then sanded the top and sides flush. I then used some leveling feet I installed on the bench to level to the saw and here is the end result. Worked out pretty good even though I had an unexpected work around with the top of the c-channel and I can slide a board back and forth between outfeed table and table saw without it catching anywhere. Next is cutting the miter slots and cabinets underneath. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted January 30 Author Share Posted January 30 Progress looks good! Cabinets next? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 Pretty cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olie Posted February 19 Share Posted February 19 I had to get through some stuff and going through a very busy time at work, but I have to get going on the cabinets underneath. Came up with a basic design in Excel and decided to go with the Benchcrafted classic handle on this one so I can do full width cabinets underneath and not have the wheel obstructing the drawers. There will be two separate cabinets because of the two different depths due to the cabinet on the side for the sander on a lift. One drawer bank will be about 24”-26” deep if I remember correctly and the shorter one will be around 18”-20”. Before getting into design or construction specific questions I want to know opinions on what plywood material to use? I want the African mahogany (AM) look on the outside. I could buy some baltic birch (BB) and laminate some 1/4” AM to the exposed sides and maybe top if needed (I have leftover on hand) or I could just buy a sheet of 3/4” AM and not have the laminating of the 1/4” panels. Any opinions on that? The cost for BB and AM are close to the same so that wouldn’t be any deciding factor. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olie Posted February 19 Share Posted February 19 Also let me know if any of you have any cool or unique design ideas or features other than just two banks of drawers. The two banks of drawers seem most logical and useful but I’ve also considered other things like a vertical pull out drawer between the the two banks, festool systainer storage, and other things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted February 20 Share Posted February 20 With the price of the materials being close, I would certainly go with the AM ply. I think the drawer design would be a personal preference on your needs. I’m about to build a systainer storage cabinet to get off of the floor so I like that idea. Maybe a combo with drawers to eliminate wasted space? In your last post, second pic, what is the white area? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olie Posted February 20 Share Posted February 20 @Coop The white area is open space between the top of the cabinet and rail under the bench top. It is to allow space to use holdfasts for workholding in the dog holes. Same concept as my ruobo and also Kev’s outfeed table. Only need just under 3”. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 Thanks. That’s what I was thinking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olie Posted February 28 Share Posted February 28 I didn’t get too much feedback on what material, but decided to go with an 8x4 sheet of African Mahogany (AM) for the cabinets. Baltic Birch (BB) is probably better to work with but I didn’t want to have to laminate 1/4” AM to the visible sides. One sheet was $139 and after calculating the rough dimensions to break down with the track saw I had very very little left over so an 8x4 sheet was perfect. I would have needed two 5x5 sheets of BB at $125 each. I did cut the depth a little oversize because I need to figure out if I want regular drawer pulls or inset/flush drawer pulls which could increase the depth of the cabinet. I thought inset/flush pulls would be cool but I already have left over pulls on hand that are the same as my ruobo bench and miter saw station so I’ll probably match it up. Im going to attempt inset drawers too and still have enough left over material from the same board that was used for my ruobo drawer fronts. Any recommendations for joinery of the cabinet boxes? The only cabinets I’ve ever built by myself were for my miter saw station and I followed a plan with pocket hole screws. I don’t like pocket hole screws very much so thought I’d try something different. Rabbets and glue? Just screws since it’s a workbench? Tell me your thoughts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted February 28 Author Share Posted February 28 Looking great! You could do "joinery" just about anyway you'd like. It will only be seen on the top. I guess if I were doing it, I would rabbet the top and bottom to accept the sides and then use glue and screws. You could set the top ones a little deeper and just plug them with some AM if you don't want to see the screw heads. Or, use dowels (or domino) and then you don't have a need for screws. You would need to edge band with some hardwood if you go this route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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