Jump to content
Title of the document


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Olie last won the day on May 18

Olie had the most liked content!

About Olie

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Olie's Achievements


Enthusiast (6/14)

  • Conversation Starter
  • Dedicated
  • One Year In
  • Collaborator
  • First Post

Recent Badges



  1. I know, I know, very slow progress on my outfeed table. I’ve been working super long hours at work including late nights and weekends so I had to take a hiatus from the bench. I managed to sneak in some time last night to cut some drawer box parts and snuck out into the garage today while my 3 year old twins were occupied watching a cartoon to assemble one box. Tonight I installed a pair of slides and trimmed a drawer front to fit in the opening. I still need to trim it up a bit to increase the gap a little to allow for seasonal movement, etc. I’d say the gap on each side is about 1/16” in the pic but was thinking maybe a 1/8” gap? For inset drawers, how big of a gap around the drawer front do you like? So far it’s looking good and this is my first time doing inset drawers on my own and I remember the process of doing it with Kev on my ruobo bench so I’m confident it will turn out good if I take my time. I had a big 18” wide board of African Mahogany left over from the drawer fronts on my ruobo so I had just enough to get all the face frame and drawer fronts from the same board which I think will look pretty cool.
  2. @pkinneb Thanks. I’ve seen those magport things and they look cool. I could see many uses for them. So you bought the benchtop planer as a backup up when needed or when you forgot a board or need to redo one, or you don’t use the planer on j/p combo anymore and just use the Oliver? I did get a price quote on a Hammer 16” jointer and the 16” J/P combo. There was only a $720 difference. I figured it may be best to just buy the combo and see if it works well. If for some reason separates are really desired later on then a separate planer could be purchased and the planer on the combo could just be used as a backup if needed. If I ever bought the combo I’d maybe sell the dewalt 735 so afterwards the ending cash outlay would be similar between the combo and just jointer like Kev has.
  3. How do you like the Hammer j/p combo? I’ve thought about saving for the hammer 16” J/P combo but not sure how I’d like the combo or change over. The videos I’ve seen show it’s less than a minute change over though. It would save a lot of space and could be good for having the dust collection points at the same spot and the total cost would be less than 2 separates if I went with a jointer greater than 8”. I’ve used Kev’s 16” Hammer jointer but not the combo.
  4. This was one of those things that just came up even though I wasn’t really ready to upgrade. When I do I will probably just go with a new or lightly used floor model instead of upgrading the 735. Spending a bunch on a helical head on a 735 is kind of like putting a bigger engine in a Toyota Camry, in the end you still have a Toyota Camry!
  5. I ended up talking to the guy a bit and he got it at an estate sale and didn’t know much about it and no real use of it. He then later contacted me and said he had someone who was planning to come pick it up today for $725, but if I’m willing to pay more he will sell it to me instead. Too many red flags and I don’t like dealing with sellers like this so I’m going to pass. It was 80 miles away anyways.
  6. I currently have a Dewalt 735 planer and it’s not bad but I thought I’d upgrade to a heavier duty floor model someday in the future. Although I wasn’t looking to upgrade now, sometimes used tools come up locally. This is a General International 15” 3hp planer and model number 30-115. They are asking $850 obo and the description says excellent working condition and upgraded with a Shelix Helical cutterhead. Would this be a significant upgrade? Is this a decent price? Things to consider? Or better to save up and buy a new type in the future. Any other feedback? TIA!
  7. For some reason I thought the N3 was a super high sheen finish or really glossy but I must’ve been mistaken. It sounds like it’s also pretty time consuming with the Rubio and N3. I listened to a podcast with that guy once with him talking about the N3. He said he’d get really nervous around dining tables with family and kids around it with just Rubio because the protection isn’t as strong, but now doesn’t worry about it with the N3 due to its protection against water, etc. Sounds like the N3’s value would be in its protection if it is what he claims and not quite as much the looks of the finish if it just adds a slight sheen which other products can offer, including Rubio products.
  8. Is the N3 Nanocoat the new stuff from Blacktail Studios? If that’s it and I remember correctly, I think I remember it being a very high sheen or gloss finish that can be applied over Rubio and offers lots of protection for high use areas.
  9. Nice work. Sorry if I missed it, but what finish is going on it?
  10. In the pic before the glue up I like the grain matching in the right two boards. The lighter pieces of each board fit well together.
  11. I’ve been slowly working on my outfeed table. I scratched the new design and just going with the two banks of 4 drawers. A deeper bottom drawer about 7” and three 4” drawers. I got some new woodpecker clamping squares to try out and really liked using them and got some nice square cabinets after glue up. Did I use enough clamps? Haha! I then got the cabinets installed under the bench and had some shimming to do to make sure both cabinets were level with each other due to not having perfectly level supports they were resting on. It was a pretty tight fit and had to tap in with a rubber mallet. Next I cut up my material for the face frame and rough cut all the drawer fronts. In fall of 2022 I bought a 12ft long by 18inch wide board of African mahogany. Was purchased for my ruobo bench and I had a 76” long piece left over. I had to be careful with my cuts because I had just enough to do my face frame and all drawer fronts with this one board. I got to utilize a feature of my bench by removing the tool tray to use the opening for my track saw to crosscut the board to rough lengths because as of now I don’t have a crosscut sled or anything to do that cut on my table saw. Finally last night I got the face frames installed. I installed them piece by piece and going back and forth to my miter saw to sneak up on a perfect fit. Everything came out pretty good. Next I’ll be building drawers, installing drawer slides and drawer fronts. I’m going to try inset drawers and have never attempted this on my own before but I learned enough with Kev that I think it should go well.
  12. Yeah I scratched this design and decided to go back to my original two banks of 4 drawers. The double stiles aren’t actually there but the picture depicted that there are two separate cabinets that meet in the middle. Due to a sander cabinet on one side I have about 19 inches of depth for the front cabinet on the right side and with the CT parking on the left side I have 24” of depth for the front left cabinet so I built two separate cabinets at different depths. I have updated pics I’ll post later.
  13. I wanted to get some feedback on workbench storage. What kind of storage do you like? Drawers or doors, deep or shallow, a combination of all? I was staring at my bench and an idea popped in my head for storage. I always wanted to do both a full width cabinet and I do like the wagon wheel vise hardware but decided on the classic handle so I could do a full width cabinet because the wagon wheel sticks out 6” into the cabinet cavity. Also I’ve added some festool tools and was thinking about a little bit of systainer storage and wondered how I could incorporate all. There will be two equal width cabinets covering the 49” of width because there are two different depths due to the sander cabinet on the side. I thought about putting a vertical partition 6” in from the vise side and then match it on the other side. Based on vise measurements, up to 13” from the bottom would not interfere with the vise so I thought about filling that space with 2 or three 5 to 6 inch wide drawers for more purpose storage for small items. The rest would be open storage or shelves. That leaves about 17.5 inches of width in each cabinet towards the middle. I thought about putting some systainer storage on the bottom with two drawers on the top. Questions are: Would the narrow drawers be useful for smaller items or wasted space? Do you find open shelving space useful? How about storing systainers here? Would I be better with the the original design of two banks of 4 drawers? This obviously complicates the build but I thought I’d throw the idea down to visualize. If it seems not as useful I’ll just go back to the original design and move forward.
  14. Funny you say that and not too late. I decided I’ll do rabbets and I edge banded the top and bottom panels to rabbet and accept the side panels I wanted to put in some fasteners to strengthen the glued rabbets and I don’t want to mess with hiding fasteners so I starting thinking this would be a good spot for pocket holes. That’s how my ruobo cabinet was built and it worked good
  15. Sweet! Looks like a fortune right there! Well at least in my town where 8/4 is over $16/BF. What are your walnut prices? How did you get this commission?
  • Create New...