Woodenskye (Bryan) Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 I have 2 sets of chisels. The one set I never really sharpened properly. I basically used wet dry sandpaper and never was happy with the performance. So today I started over and sharpened this set, 220, 320, 1000, 4000 and 8,000. Now for my issue, my other set I am fairly certain I never took these through my 8,000 grit stone. I actually can't remember if I stopped at 1,000 or 4,000. What would you do, cause I believe I have 3 options: 1). Start over completely (not preferred) 2). Start a 4,000 3). Go directly to 8,000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 2 minutes ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said: I have 2 sets of chisels. The one set I never really sharpened properly. I basically used wet dry sandpaper and never was happy with the performance. So today I started over and sharpened this set, 220, 320, 1000, 4000 and 8,000. Now for my issue, my other set I am fairly certain I never took these through my 8,000 grit stone. I actually can't remember if I stopped at 1,000 or 4,000. What would you do, cause I believe I have 3 options: 1). Start over completely (not preferred) 2). Start a 4,000 3). Go directly to 8,000 I would start over... It's just the right way to do it.. If they're in good shape, you won't spend much time on the lower grits anyway so, shouldn't add that much time to the process.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenskye (Bryan) Posted May 6, 2020 Author Share Posted May 6, 2020 There in really good shape, that is why I'm leaning towards starting at 4,000 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 Just now, Woodenskye (Bryan) said: There in really good shape, that is why I'm leaning towards starting at 4,000 If you're going the sandpaper route, I would agree.. If you're using stones, then I'd start at the beginning. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenskye (Bryan) Posted May 6, 2020 Author Share Posted May 6, 2020 No more sandpaper. Just using my diamond plates and water stones from now on. I know you're right about starting over, but I'm just not wanting to admit. The 1 1/4 and 1 1/2 I'm not going to do over since I have never actually used them, if I ever do, I can decide at that time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 1 minute ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said: No more sandpaper. Just using my diamond plates and water stones from now on. I know you're right about starting over, but I'm just not wanting to admit. The 1 1/4 and 1 1/2 I'm not going to do over since I have never actually used them, if I ever do, I can decide at that time. Well, those backs have to be flat regardless.. Worth the time to toss them on the plates and at least see how much time you're in for! Yea, on the stones, I'd start over. If the paper did a good job, you won't be long on the stones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 Maybe to start with you need to do one starting over and one from 4000 and up, using two that are close in size for the test. Quote "Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not; remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." - Epicurus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenskye (Bryan) Posted May 6, 2020 Author Share Posted May 6, 2020 The set I'm talking about was done on my stones. I think I'm going to start over for my 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4 and 1. For the 1 1/4 and 1 1/2 I'm going to start at 4,000 since, as mentioned, I have never used and unless I'm doing a small timberframe doubt I will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tmize Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 I rarely ever go below 400 grit. Most of the time I start at my 1200 grit diamond and that usually tells me if I’m good or need to go down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 I’m the last guy to ask on this topic, but it sure is interesting to read! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 Me, I would compare their performance to the ones that were sharpened to your satisfaction. If they hone up, then your good to go. If not, go thru the process. Or, use them as throw down chisels, everyone has some of those to scrape glue, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenskye (Bryan) Posted May 8, 2020 Author Share Posted May 8, 2020 Well that was fun! Went back to 220 and up to 8,000 with all 8 chisels, in the end I'm sure I won't regret. Backs are flat, now to do the bevels. So for those of you that use the Veritas MKii honing jig. I went back through the manual and couldn't find my answer. When setting up the width of the chisel you set the 1 part to let's say 1/4" which is marked, if you have a 3/8 chisel do you set between 1/4 and 1/2" marks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 Why don’t you do the bevel and back at the same time on each stone? Once you set the guide for the bevel, there’s plenty of clearance to do the back. I hope! Perhaps I’ve been doing it incorrectly? Yeah, the width you mentioned is correct. I think they just want you in the center of the guide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 37 minutes ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said: When setting up the width of the chisel you set the 1 part to let's say 1/4" which is marked, if you have a 3/8 chisel do you set between 1/4 and 1/2" marks? That's the way that I do it.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenskye (Bryan) Posted May 8, 2020 Author Share Posted May 8, 2020 1 hour ago, Coop said: Why don’t you do the bevel and back at the same time on each stone? Once you set the guide for the bevel, there’s plenty of clearance to do the back. I hope! Perhaps I’ve been doing it incorrectly? Yeah, the width you mentioned is correct. I think they just want you in the center of the guide. Different strokes. After I flatten the backs, I find it easier to set the guide then go through the 4 stones, then onto the next victim. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 15 hours ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said: After I flatten the backs, I find it easier to set the guide then go through the 4 stones, then onto the next victim. This is pretty much my M.O. I think Coop is correct, their marking is just to get you close to the center. 2 Quote "Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not; remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." - Epicurus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenskye (Bryan) Posted May 9, 2020 Author Share Posted May 9, 2020 Well that sucked! My hands are hurting after all that sharpening. I'm glad I started over, cause some I don't think I sharpened properly the first time when I didn't know much. Now that chisels are done, it's on to plane blades. I really need to learn to freehand sharpen. I would like to add a higher grit stone, but I don't want to go through a good part of this process again. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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