Coop

And then one of the syndicated home improvement shows strips the paint and reveals your name, well after we can appreciate it.

Might be a chore for the Milwaukee Fuel jig saw. I love that thing! I think I even talked Chet into buying one? 😀

Have you had time to form an opinion on the new bs?

Where a wet rag will clean up Titebond type glues, isn’t there a solvent such as mineral spirits or lacquer thinner that can be used for epoxy? I used epoxy on my bathroom door construction but be darned if I remember what I used. I attribute this to climate change and not old age.😀

This thing will have close to 40-50 pieces, all joined together with the Domino. I am going to take your advice Kev and use epoxy for the glue up, for moisture protection and extended work time. The horizontal surfaces will be slats and there are several aprons and stretchers. Far more complicated than it should be! I would like to give a generous but not excessive coating of epoxy to the ends of each of these boards, or maybe that’s an overkill? What is the best way to clean up the squeeze out? I will be using Penofin penetrating oil finish. And yes, I just recently saw a video on outdoor finishing that Marc did addressing the epoxy on the leg ends. Neat idea.

Very well done Chet. Clean simple lines with a touch of elegance. The pulls are a perfect choice!

I have a relationship with my dealer. He takes my cc, rings it up and says, “next”! 😳

For those that use pvc, do you use screws at the connections instead of glue in case a change needs to be made in the future?

I walked away with a $400 bill for the wood alone and will contest it as a mistake on their part. Should have been $200 less. Regardless, your wife’s request is my demand! I bet you can get more for your bucks than I can offer! 😀

I will be building my wife a plant stand from cypress and cedar that will be outside and exposed to the elements. 100% of the jointery will be Dominos with TB III as the glue. Is there a reason I should make my own tenons from the same wood as they are more weather resistant or use use Festools tenons?

Heck of a job Jamie and the fact that she was involved is super cool! Well done bud!

And these are included in the pic of the $1k of material?

Kev, looking back, initially you were going with 16/4 for the legs. Has that not arrived or did you change your mind and are going in a different direction?

Good memory! Brendon and I still pm occasionally.

I think that a past member of WTOL from Cal said there was a program that will give numerous patterns for cutting boards.

I’m about to experience my first WWII thanks to Kev,

I too have the one from Rockler and found that uneven pressure gives uneven results. I made a small jig with the opening the height of the iron and it fits over a strip of wood sized to about 1/8” space top and bottom. I can then make several brands on thin strips of different types of woods and cut them to length, discarding any that didn’t come out as desirable. These are then glued to the work piece.

More so from trying to figure out how the design is done.

That has some pazazz to it. Good use of scraps.

Other than flat tooth full kerf, thin kerf is about all I ever use. Pm me with the particulars and I’ll take it.

Instead of posting a shop tip, perhaps the answers to my question, will create one(s). How do you guys address the final trimming of these to be flush with the box sides? I currently use a box plane to get as close as possible and use the ros to finish it off.

And what route would you go with?

I guess really, having your miter bar slots being equidistant is insignificant as you still only have one runner under the sled and when you move it over for the 45* cut, it is where it is. Just have to size the width of the sled accordingly.

I see the 45* to your left now. At first I only saw the vertical kerf. It is good that your slots are equal distance from your blade!

Where is the project video?