Jump to content
Title of the document

Sit / Stand Desk


Kev

Recommended Posts

@Ray Martin and I are doing a bit of a collaboration for a sit/stand desk for his wife's new play area in their shop.  This will be a Christmas gift so, gotta keep it under wraps..

The base was acquired off of Amazon for a much better deal than it's currently listed!  It's fairly hefty and dual motor so, should be a good platform to build this custom piece off of.

image.thumb.jpeg.1c77f60b5baafd1ad06a6e0f008da77b.jpeg

Top will be Cherry.  Shooting for about 24" deep.  It's currently at about 56" long but, we obviously will be trimming the ends.  We'll settle for as much length as we can get.  This is not glued up yet, just rough milled.

image.thumb.jpeg.daae22c9d2b4002f20e598eb44d9e82c.jpeg

Also going to do a small monitor riser for the top with a built in plug and USB port.  Just finished some 3/8" box joints in some nicely figured maple.  The maple is just heavy of 1" so should be plenty to support a monitor..  The maple is left over from @Spanky so, comes from Tennessee.

Dry fit only..  Still lots of sanding and edge work.

image.thumb.jpeg.0290fa567152c9c6889944552cec9e8f.jpeg

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, Coop said:

Speaking of epoxy, although it’s a different application, it’s a segue. Do you feel that using epoxy instead of TiteBond in an end grain to long grain glue up using Domino’s tenons adds addition strength to the joint? 

I do.  I use epoxy in place of glue in many circumstances, this being one of them.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The reason for asking, someone posted this on another site.

Making bread boards it is important to use titebond III. Long ago when I was more rebellious I made fully glued breadboard ends. No offset bore hole for a dry joint. It worked! After many people said it would fail, I called Franklin glue company and spoke to the engineer. Titebond is not allowed in trusses or engineered beams. Because the glue allows "creep". Their words. And creep makes titebond a woodworkers best friend as  it allows wood to move.

And I don’t see epoxy “creeping”. 
Thanks for your opinion. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Coop said:

The reason for asking, someone posted this on another site.

Making bread boards it is important to use titebond III. Long ago when I was more rebellious I made fully glued breadboard ends. No offset bore hole for a dry joint. It worked! After many people said it would fail, I called Franklin glue company and spoke to the engineer. Titebond is not allowed in trusses or engineered beams. Because the glue allows "creep". Their words. And creep makes titebond a woodworkers best friend as  it allows wood to move.

And I don’t see epoxy “creeping”. 
Thanks for your opinion. 

I'll be honest, I couldn't tell you the last time I used TB3..  I do have a bottle in the shop that has never been opened.

Modern adhesives have come so far that I feel most of the hype is mostly marketing furthered by people that buy into all the hype and preach its praise to anyone who will listen..  

About the only change I've been thinking of is using TB dark or Hyde glue on darker woods.  But again, I haven't really had an issue up to now so, do I really need to do something different?  Is this just more social media hype or is there a legitimate reason to make a change?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, Coop said:

I think TB II and III have their advantages as simple, fast and cheap. But where strength is concerned, epoxy overrides all three. Sorry for the diversion. Back to originally scheduled program. 

No worries, not much to post tonight anyway so, the conversation is good.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, Coop said:

Do you feel that using epoxy instead of TiteBond in an end grain to long grain glue up using Domino’s tenons adds addition strength to the joint? 

One of the things I do anytime end grain is involved is I brush a thin layer of glue on the end grain, let it tac up some, this allows it to soak into the end grain, then add a second layer and proceed with the assembly per usual.  I learned this from Ronn over at WTO

  • Like 2

"Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not;  remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." - Epicurus

Link to comment
Share on other sites

53 minutes ago, Chet said:

One of the things I do anytime end grain is involved is I brush a thin layer of glue on the end grain, let it tac up some, this allows it to soak into the end grain, then add a second layer and proceed with the assembly per usual.  I learned this from Ronn over at WTO

"Sizing" is always a good idea with end grain!  

Well, I managed to get a little bit done on this project today before the fiber people showed up to dig up my yard 😂

I got the riser all cleaned up.  It's ready for the hole for the plug insert and some finish..  Need to talk with @Ray Martin a bit about finish on this part so it ends up how they want.

image.thumb.jpeg.5bb0915eff49631bcc430fa5c169a187.jpeg

I also got the epoxy in the top sanded and the 2 halves glued up.  Pretty happy with the seam!  No dominos for alignment because everything just came together so nicely!

image.thumb.jpeg.14629bc5530a7e2cf882d08718622a52.jpeg

I added the cauls and end clamps just in case since I'll be out in the yard with the digging crew..

I'm thinking maybe a little "bow" to the front edge??  What do you think @Ray Martin?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Ray Martin came and lent a hand today and we managed to get a lot done!

I like the idea of the gentle curves for the top so, created a couple templates both for marking and flush trimming.  One for the front and one for the sides.

image.thumb.jpeg.a1fcf0046e18d3b729a15df8eba8bd90.jpeg

Of course this made doing the chamfer on the bottom a bit more tricky!  I decided to try something I haven't tried before and used my hand/power planer (Dewalt) to remove the bulk of the material and then come back with a smoothing plane and sander to get them as close to perfect as possible.  Sorry, I didn't grab any pictures of this process but, it was a workout for sure!

Then, we added a round over on the top and set it on the base to have the first look..

image.thumb.jpeg.7f1c6cd1c91a9ce1b7df9dca451b2b62.jpeg

I really liked how this lighten the look of the top since my finished thickness on the cherry was at 1 3/4".

We also drilled all the holes for the cord pass throughs and sanded through 180 grit.

Here's a picture from the back so you can see how much this lightened the look.

image.thumb.jpeg.138c439fb1e16a94b96cf94503879221.jpeg

We marked and set all the mounting holes and mounted the top for the first test run.  Worked flawlessly!  Was pleasantly surprised how quiet it is!

Happy with the look and function, we pulled it all back apart, got it up on the bench, and applied Rubio for the finish.  There's actually a little bit of curl in the cherry which I didn't see before the finish was applied.  I love happy accidents!  I was also pleasantly surprised that the Rubio didn't alter the maple color as much as I thought it would and really brought out the figure in the maple!

image.thumb.jpeg.18544502ec659204061280d03c4d2627.jpeg

Not sure if I'll get it mounted back up tonight or not.  Probably just let it sit on painters pyramids for the night and then get it finished up tomorrow.

Overall, a super productive day in the shop!

 

 

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...