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Ideas on best way to make this?


Bushwacked

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So I have a customer build (potentially, waiting on acceptance of quote), but have been tossing around ideas on how to cut the X section, but still not sold on 100% I like any of the ideas.

 

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So I am curious about the bottom X's ... they are 16" deep, so thats part of the problem. I was thinking lap joints but being so deep that would be a big lap joint and I would need to cut on the bandsaw. Not sure how clean that would look coming from that ?? Although this is still my #1 idea so far. 

Next thought was to just cut 1 side in half and then domino 2 sides pieces into that, but that could be way more effort and tricky alignment than needed.

Also, the other thing I wasnt sure of, should I build these 3 X's as 3 separate pieces and just sit them in there and then glue down to install? Not sure one big piece would be any better?

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1 hour ago, Bushwacked said:

So I am curious about the bottom X's ... they are 16" deep, so thats part of the problem. I was thinking lap joints but being so deep that would be a big lap joint and I would need to cut on the bandsaw. Not sure how clean that would look coming from that ?? Although this is still my #1 idea so far. 

I just did something similar, not 16 inches deep but it was deeper than I could get of my table saw.  I did it on my router table.  My material was 3/4" thick and I used a 1/2" diameter bit to make my cuts.  By using the 1/2" bit it allowed me to flip the pieces, not only to sneak up on the fit but also keep the cut centered.  I used a stop block on my fence for depth of cut.  Then chiseled to square up the cuts.  I did a full size test with some poplar to get everything dialed in.  When you hit the stop block, hold the piece securely and turn off the router DON'T try backing it out with the router running.

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"Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not;  remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." - Epicurus

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1 hour ago, Chet said:

I just did something similar, not 16 inches deep but it was deeper than I could get of my table saw.  I did it on my router table.  My material was 3/4" thick and I used a 1/2" diameter bit to make my cuts.  By using the 1/2" bit it allowed me to flip the pieces, not only to sneak up on the fit but also keep the cut centered.  I used a stop block on my fence for depth of cut.  Then chiseled to square up the cuts.  I did a full size test with some poplar to get everything dialed in.  When you hit the stop block, hold the piece securely and turn off the router DON'T try backing it out with the router running.

oh good idea too! curious, the panels will be plywood with hardwood face, can you chisel plywood with good results? never tried to chisel plywood before haha 

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I too think 1/2 lap would be the way to go ultimately.  Especially if you could add some small corner blocks to reinforce the joint.

I also think you could get away with some shallow dados assuming this is solid wood and not trimmed ply.

What's the purpose of this section?  You see this a lot with wine storage which could accumulate some weight.

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2 hours ago, Bushwacked said:

can you chisel plywood with good results

I have never tried to chisel plywood.  You could probably clean it up with you bandsaw also.  Or you don't have to clean it up at all you just need you to pieces to overlap so the edges are flush.

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"Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not;  remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." - Epicurus

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Couldn’t this be cut on the ts with the board flat against the surface? Set the fence to make the left cut and a stop block the thickness of your board against the fence for your right cut using the miter gauge to keep the board square to the blade. As the cut on the bottom side of the board will be deeper, flip the board over to even up the cuts on the other side.  Remove the waste with a jig saw and trim with a chisel. 

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2 hours ago, Kev said:

I too think 1/2 lap would be the way to go ultimately.  Especially if you could add some small corner blocks to reinforce the joint.

I also think you could get away with some shallow dados assuming this is solid wood and not trimmed ply.

What's the purpose of this section?  You see this a lot with wine storage which could accumulate some weight.

ya laps seem to be the way to go ... what do you mean some small corner blocks?

hah! it will be trimmer ply to save some money for them. 

It will actually hold those like 12x4x4 (or close) fire starter logs for them. So they might weigh just as much as wine or even more stacked in there??

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3 hours ago, Bushwacked said:

ya laps seem to be the way to go ... what do you mean some small corner blocks?

Just some small blocks to go in the corners where your weaker joints are to stiffen and reinforce them..

1 hour ago, Coop said:

I’m thinking, with the weight, that shallow dados and Dominoes might be the answer albeit, labor intensive. Or the support blocks that Kev mentioned. Or pocket holes from underneath. 

This may not be a bad idea!  Potentially, you could get away with screws for reinforcement.

Ultimately, you just need the joint to not pull apart.  Dominos, screws, 1/2 laps, etc..  I think all are similar in strength..

Perhaps a through mortice in one piece and then a floating tenon in the other 2 with a small dado to tie it all together??

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2 hours ago, Bushwacked said:

so when yall say blocks ... are you meaning add some back here with the red circles? Like underneath the bottom so it doesnt "squat" with the weight?

Screenshot2023-04-03104443.thumb.png.7b02ccaa026c8de1692d679a162e94a3.png

No, running width ways along the joint

 

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