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Coop
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Everything posted by Coop
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Why is that? To avoid nicks and scratches? And foam brush on the clear after install?
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Looks like 2x studs are hard to come by. Lumber was backordered for two days. Just as well as rain is in the forecast. I took a ticker shock today after buying the walnut for the jamb and casing. $8.25 bf was the best I could do. I think I will attempt to make the jamb myself. Not knowing the exact floor depth, I will leave the stiles a few inches proud at the bottom and let the contractor make the final cuts. There needs to be plenty of clearance below the door as that will be the return air.
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Nice job @Tmize. Would have liked it but I ran out of likes after 3.
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I think the downfall of 2020 started on 1-21-20 when the first case of Covid hit the US and peaked on 11-3-20, or somewhere there about. Just making a joke, seriously!
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Should have read eons ago. Have your people contact my people and we can work thru this! Please email me for terms and conditions. ?
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I looked into it and from what I can determine, it was due to atmospheric rays created icons ago. Totally out of your control.
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Just had a thought. How should I treat the installation of the jamb if it’s walnut? Painted, the nail holes would be filled and sanded. I’m thinking of prefinishing it, like the door, prior to installation?
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And to be honest, when 2 sheets of mdf were mentioned, I used the same and quite often, that is not enough for my holdfast to grasp. Not sure what the recommended thickness is. My workbench was built in my budding days, shortly after joining this forum and I was sure I knew more than the seasoned guys on here. My bad!
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Ok, walnut it is. Framers will be here tomorrow to start, so I’ll fetch me some walnut on Wednesday. I cut some 1x’s today to represent walls and some scrap ply to represent vanities and laid them out on the slab. Sure looks different than on paper. This monster bathroom just became very modest. ? Thanks all!
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You mention needing more beef but I like Kev, I question the torsion top. I agree with Bryan on the mdf top. I know I couldn’t build a torsion top to be flatter than mdf . Otherwise, I like it bud!
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I am mostly out of the original walnut and would have to buy some from one of my suppliers. Probably one of my biggest concerns is a mismatch in colors between mine and theirs. Is this a valid concern?
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I’m thinking also about the painter cutting into the walnut jamb, and future paintings.
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At this point, price is not a consideration. I can always start a go fund me. ? I’m definitely not one for an eye for design. Thanks
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I’ve toyed with the idea of walnut for the jamb but have looked at pics of walnut as the jamb, and also with walnut as the trim and jamb. To me, the walnut jamb alone doesn’t seem to add much to it. Google walnut doors and jambs, or something along those lines, and give me your opinion. Other opinions welcome.
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Yeah, I thought about building it myself. I am buying kiln dried maple, per Chet’s suggestion, to give to the trim guy to help insure no cupping. My thought, if it doesn’t fit, it’s on him.
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Chet, I have used this a couple of times from Steve’s suggestion but don’t remember when and where. Given the size and weight of theses glass panels, will they eventually move to the bottom of the frame? Plan right now is to give the door to the trim guy to build a frame or jamb, not sure which is correct. Once it is hung to my satisfaction, I will remove it and lay the door flat and install the glass. I bet the Lexel does not hold it from dropping down, even with the strips in place?
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I’ve heard of the CA trick but never seen it demonstrated. I’m sold. Thanks.
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Is there a reason you didn’t use a chamfering bit in a hand held router instead of using a hand planer for the bottom profile of the top? Did you have stop lines on the edge and face?
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Cool video bud, especially drilling for the drawer dowels. I honestly believe that I would have blown thru half or more of the sides from not drilling plumb and square. I would have made a jig by drilling a 3/8” hole thru some 2” hardwood on my dp as a guide but obviously you didn’t have to go that route! Good job.
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He’s a lucky guy as Wimberly is a neat little town at the edge of the hill country.
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I like your way of thinking! When I first inquired, I was told that it would be 1/8” glass so I mortised to accommodate. Later, when I ordered the glass, the owner said since it was in a door, it should be thicker. Honestly, I think it will be ok either way. Wife won’t know the difference? I’m leaning towards flush.
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I am out of reactions for today so here’s a ? That’s 20 pieces to take off a blades width but being a bit ocd, I feel the need?
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Yes sir. When I first inquired, they said the glass was to be 1/8” and it came in as 1/4”. And yes, if I trim, it will be on the side that fits against the glass. Thanks
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Kev and others. The little mullions or muntins or whatever the glass retaining strips are called, are proud of the door by approx 1/8”, and that’s without the Lexel sealant. It looks good and feels good but should they be flush with the door? If so, it means cutting them down and putting a protective finish of sort on the bare wood. I doubt seriously that anyone going thru the door would notice or question right or wrong.
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Had to bore you guys one more time for a while. 2 coats of ARS and four coats of GF, HP satin. I picked up the glass yesterday and had to get a sneak view of how it will look. Next post will be in about 6 weeks, hopefully, when it is installed.
