pkinneb Posted June 12 Share Posted June 12 We recently lost our nephew to cancer and for the fifth time in 3 years I was under the gun to make an urn. These take me about 6 hours to cut the veneers and assemble the tops, the boxes are pretty straightforward, but probably like 10-15 hours total per urn. So I decided maybe I should make a couple spares 😏 On a positive note (I hope) I have decided I should take you guys along for the ride LOL First up is to cut some veneer I usually shoot for a finished thickness of about a 1/16" so I cut the slices to about 3/32" on the BS and then run them through the drum sander. These were cut with a HWW 1/2" Woodslicer blade, my resaw blade of choice. I run the blank through the Oliver BT Planer after each slice. The shelix head is amazing and between the Woodslicer Blade and it I have very little waste. This is right off the saw... Next I run them through my drum sander but you could used a hand plane as well to bring them to final thickness. I use a sled and always hold them down so they don't jump the sleds low fence (you only do that once 🙂) Here is my pattern (bottom) I have cut a small groove at the edge so I can mark quickly with a mechanical pencil. I also come down on the edge of the core which helps you keep everything aligned as you go. Next its time to start choosing the veneer and cutting it to size. My goal with these is to have the curl flow towards the point where all the lines converge. this makes for a really nice affect once finished. Some of the tools I use, I add 150 grit sandpaper to keep my guide from moving while cutting. Each edge is planed flat with a shooting board and my #4 in this case Here I am working on the best flow of the curl again my goal is it all flows towards the convergence point. I actually went with the triangle at the right for this one. Then I just start working around the board (the core is just 1/8 fiber board from Menards) I do use a straight edge to insure the first half is all on the same plane / line. This helps when I am squaring up the panel after glue up. A tape dispenser is mandatory for this project and you want to insure the tape is tight. I attach to the piece and then stretch it across to the next insuring its tight. It should pull up a bit like this Another tip is have some scraps for your shooting board so that you are not always using the same spot on the plane blade as you need a sharp blade to avoid tear out. Here I have a scrap 1/4" panel Here 3/4" Then just keep plugging away Now its ready for glue up. I used TB for the Maple and TB 3 for the walnut backer (just for better color match) Then it goes in my vacuum bag but you could easily do this with a flat panel like MDF and clamps. Just make sure you have clear tape on the face of your panel touching the piece as glue WILL come through regardless of how tight the pieces are. And here they are after they come out of the bag and have a quick sand with the RO sander Next up trim the panels and start working on the box, hopefully this weekend 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted June 12 Share Posted June 12 Great detail and very well explained! I'm really looking forward to following this! These builds are always difficult! I hate building things for the wrong reasons! Condolences, thoughts, and prayers to the family! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted June 13 Author Share Posted June 13 Next up I set up to cut the recess for the cross using the Shaper Origin. Pretty quick and easy one for the Shaper especially since the file is already there. Just mount it to the board and cut it out. FWIW you don't need a Shaper to do this here is my previous, much cheaper version. Next up I cleaned up the recess corners with chisels Then cut and planed the cross to fit ...and finally glued it in Tomorrow I need to get the long delayed second coat of milk paint on my latest Windsor chair so the next update on this project will be over the weekend. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted June 13 Share Posted June 13 I've been thinking about the shaper origin.. Still on the fence but, projects like this make it more difficult. Amazing work! And, I'm looking forward to the chair update! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted June 13 Share Posted June 13 Thanks so much for explaining in detail how you formed the pattern in the veneer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted June 13 Author Share Posted June 13 18 hours ago, Kev said: I've been thinking about the shaper origin.. Still on the fence but, projects like this make it more difficult. Amazing work! And, I'm looking forward to the chair update! I have barely tapped the surface with the origin and certainly haven't gotten my moneys worth but definite nice to have and I find new uses all the time. Its awesome for templates 🙂 Thanks!! Second coat of red is mixing as we speak. I will get it applied after I mow this evening. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted June 15 Author Share Posted June 15 First up today was to get some finish on the top panel...I'm liking it, one of my better starbursts the cross inlay could be better shouldn't have done that when I was tired. Having said that other than us friends know one will ever know 🤣 Next up I cut out the box four way match, pretty straight forward. That'll work Tomorrow if I have time I will start to shape the sides; dado for the top panel, 45 degree chamfer on the top and bottom edges, and splines for the corners. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted June 16 Share Posted June 16 Just now, pkinneb said: First up today was to get some finish on the top panel...I'm liking it, one of my better starbursts the cross inlay could be better shouldn't have done that when I was tired. Having said that other than us friends know one will ever know 🤣 Looks pretty damn good to me! Really nice work! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenskye (Bryan) Posted June 16 Share Posted June 16 Does the Shaper Origin actually save time? It seems set up takes so long that it isn’t a time saving, but do see the advantage of accuracy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted June 16 Author Share Posted June 16 1 hour ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said: Does the Shaper Origin actually save time? It seems set up takes so long that it isn’t a time saving, but do see the advantage of accuracy. Honestly for one of these nope...but this is my sixth so now what would have taken 45 min to an hour manually I can literally do in 5-10 min. Its also great for patterns becuase there is no sanding/fairing. Hardware is another use case I like it for. I'm getting ready to make a spokeshave and will use it on that as well. Like many tools there are typically other and in many cases cheaper ways of doing it but kind of like my Panto-router the longer I have it the more uses I find 🙂 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted June 21 Author Share Posted June 21 Speaking of the PantoRouter I made a quick vertical mounting jig to help speed up the urn assembly process. Currently I just glue screw blocks to the inside of the box and while it works they are constantly moving so you have to take your time and insure they stay on place. With this jig I can quickly mark the center line clamp it to the jig and cut an 1/8" wide 1/8" deep 1" long mortise in each side. When I make the blocks I will integrate the corresponding tenon on the block which will provide quick accurate alignment. Looks like rain Saturday so I should be able to get the URN done and show the photo's of what I am talking about. In the mean time here's some of the jig In use while making the jig 🙂 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted June 21 Share Posted June 21 Pantorouter has been on my list for a while too...lol Question, is this something you could just do with the domino? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted June 21 Author Share Posted June 21 9 hours ago, Kev said: Pantorouter has been on my list for a while too...lol Question, is this something you could just do with the domino? hmm possibly but certainly not as quickly or, in my opinion, safely. For the hidden splines the PantoRouter is the best tool in my opinion. While I have been doing them on the router table its hard to get the accuracy and honestly its a bit sketch. They are typically 4" or so long so unless you were going to use multiple not seeing how the domino would help. Having said all that if I needed money for a new tool my Domino would be the fist tool sold 😮 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted June 22 Share Posted June 22 I like my Domino too much but I also like to cut mortise and tenons every once in a while, just to kind of stay on top of my game. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted June 22 Author Share Posted June 22 Don't get me wrong I like the domino for certain tasks but in my shop (partially becuase of shop layout) its a bit of a PITA to use. My Festool vac and boom is over my outfeed table so to use the domino at my bench I have to pull the vac out and then its in the way and constantly wants to tip over LOL. I know first world problems but because of that I don't use the domino much. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted June 22 Share Posted June 22 21 minutes ago, pkinneb said: Don't get me wrong I like the domino for certain tasks but in my shop (partially becuase of shop layout) its a bit of a PITA to use. My Festool vac and boom is over my outfeed table so to use the domino at my bench I have to pull the vac out and then its in the way and constantly wants to tip over LOL. I know first world problems but because of that I don't use the domino much. First world problems indeed! It's kind of funny how shops work! You're set up in your shop to do things that I would have to make changes to do them the same way in my shop. And I'm set up to accomplish the same tasks in a way that would require you to make changes in your shop. It's an amazing craft because there's so many ways to get the job done. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted June 22 Share Posted June 22 14 hours ago, Coop said: I also like to cut mortise and tenons every once in a while, just to kind of stay on top of my game. Yup. Me too. 1 Quote "Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not; remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." - Epicurus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted June 24 Author Share Posted June 24 Ok back to the urn. Today I milled up some stock for the bottom attachment points then cut them to length. Then becuase the PR leaves curved ends I used a rifler to quickly round over each end of the parts That should work Then I knocked them out on the real box sides Next up was to cut the splines. I made a quick sled to get the thin sides higher up on the PR base. Tip when you tilt your bed use a .018 feeler gauge in the slot on the PR to get a perfect 45 each time. Cutting the mortises Then I milled up and cut some maple spline stock Next I need to cut the dado for the top, on the table saw, and chamfer the top and bottom edge of the box sides. Then it will be ready for glue up. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted June 24 Share Posted June 24 I like the way you did the splines! I typically do these at the table saw but, they're through splines. I like the stopped mortises to hide the splines! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted June 25 Author Share Posted June 25 Kev I've done them three ways; like what you describe, across the corners for both decorative and strength (see pic below), but like this the best. I am trying to make the focus the top and find that a nice four corner match, straight ish grain, with the inset top and the slight bevels top and bottom really looks nice when finished. In this urn (one of my first) the corners splines and wild grain take your eye from the top to the sides, at least for me. As stated now I look for fairly straight grain and internal splines. Tonight's progress First up cut the dado in two passes at the table saw Then off to the router table for top and bottom bevels Using some scraps to get final measurements for the top Then cut the top down at the TS keeping the cross centered. I use blue tape on the sides that will be cut in an effort to insure no tear out. Now its time for the last dry fit before glue up When I take it apart I lay everything out to insure it all goes back together as well as the dry fit. There is nothing worse than having a nice four way match only to glue it up wrong...ask me how I know 🙂The sides are numbered on top 1,2,3,4 clearly as a way to prevent this as well. The last thing I do before glue up is add just a titch of water to some TB III and pre treat the end grain After letting that site for about 5-10 min I glue up the box 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted June 25 Share Posted June 25 Looking really great! Love the attention to detail! Curious, why on inset the bottom in the same way? Is that so the bottom can be replaced if needed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted June 25 Author Share Posted June 25 8 hours ago, Kev said: Looking really great! Love the attention to detail! Curious, why on inset the bottom in the same way? Is that so the bottom can be replaced if needed? Its so you have a way to add the remains. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenskye (Bryan) Posted June 25 Share Posted June 25 Great work and love the detailed steps you shared! Thank you! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted June 26 Share Posted June 26 11 hours ago, pkinneb said: Its so you have a way to add the remains. Gotcha.. So you don't cut the lid loose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted June 26 Author Share Posted June 26 2 hours ago, Kev said: Gotcha.. So you don't cut the lid loose? Correct just use four screws to hold the bottom in place. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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