pkinneb Posted April 29 Share Posted April 29 Construction complete on my latest Windsor chair. Next up the milk paint process. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted April 29 Share Posted April 29 Moved your thread up here in the showcase.. Super nice work! Did you do all the spindle turnings as well? Almost seems a shame to put paint on it, the wood looks really good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted April 29 Share Posted April 29 That is a real piece of woodworking craftsmanship there. Is that done with green wood? Did you keep track of the hours? Quote "Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not; remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." - Epicurus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted April 30 Share Posted April 30 That’s cool! Really nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted April 30 Author Share Posted April 30 18 hours ago, Kev said: Moved your thread up here in the showcase.. Super nice work! Did you do all the spindle turnings as well? Almost seems a shame to put paint on it, the wood looks really good! I did. Re the paint I think you'll be surprised with the finished product which will be black over red with rubbed in oil finish. It provides a really nice look since we are dealing with several wood species here; red oak steam bent bow & arm, red oak spindles, hard maple turnings, pine seat and white oak wedges. Duplicating turnings from pattern: 15 hours ago, Chet said: That is a real piece of woodworking craftsmanship there. Is that done with green wood? Did you keep track of the hours? Thanks Chet!! the Bow, Arm & Spindles are all green wood (almost dripping wet), seat is semi green 12% ish at the start and now at about 8%, turnings are kiln dried. RE hours about 60 so far, probably another 10 for the finish. 10 hours ago, Coop said: That’s cool! Really nice! Thanks Coop! it definitely had some challenges with all the hole drilling at various angles and the spindle shaping. Getting those spindles through the arm while keeping a tight joint takes some practice 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted April 30 Share Posted April 30 Just now, pkinneb said: Duplicating turnings from pattern: Do you have a duplicating jig or just calipers and lots of patience? I think I see some subtle difference but, it's hard to tell. I've been kind of looking at a duplicating jig for the lathe.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted April 30 Author Share Posted April 30 1 minute ago, Kev said: Do you have a duplicating jig or just calipers and lots of patience? I think I see some subtle difference but, it's hard to tell. I've been kind of looking at a duplicating jig for the lathe.. No I do not have a duplicator. I use the Peter Galbert Caliper (its a bit expensive) but I only need one to do everything really simple to read etc. If you look close you will see my primary sizing by the small grooves on the piece (top center of the bulbs) these are the important things if you get these nailed the turning itself can be off a bit and the eye won't catch it. The line / grooves are very important as they are used for measuring when fitting the legs and arm posts if they are off it makes things a bit more challenging 🙂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted April 30 Share Posted April 30 Just now, pkinneb said: No I do not have a duplicator. I use the Peter Galbert Caliper (its a bit expensive) Cool.. I haven't seen one of those! I have a couple of the Sorby ones but that looks like it would be much more proficient! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted April 30 Author Share Posted April 30 What I like is I have one tool for almost everything, I still use a 3/8" normal caliper for the arm post but don't have 5 or 6 going and no issues with them losing there setting etc. But $130 come on LOL 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted May 29 Share Posted May 29 Any update on the chair? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted June 3 Author Share Posted June 3 Unfortunately no. Life has gotten in the way preping for the residing of the house/shop/etc which was done last week yeah! Now working on an urn for my 34 year old nephew who passed Friday... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted June 3 Share Posted June 3 Just now, pkinneb said: Unfortunately no. Life has gotten in the way preping for the residing of the house/shop/etc which was done last week yeah! Now working on an urn for my 34 year old nephew who passed Friday... So sorry to hear about your loss bud! Those are never fun projects to make! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenskye (Bryan) Posted June 4 Share Posted June 4 19 hours ago, pkinneb said: Unfortunately no. Life has gotten in the way preping for the residing of the house/shop/etc which was done last week yeah! Now working on an urn for my 34 year old nephew who passed Friday... My condolences for your loss. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted June 14 Author Share Posted June 14 Last night I was able to get the second coat of red milk paint applied to the chair. Have I mentioned milk paint is an art of its own? Well anyway this batch turned out perfect (the first coat was just a bit thin) It takes about 6+ hours to get the paint mixed, just stir every 30 min Once its mixed well and has rested for at least 20 min you pour the paint (under the foam etc) through a paper filter for use Then test it to see how its going on, like I said I nailed this batch and it was great to work with. Hear is the first leg done good coverage with very little running. 2nd coat complete Next up two coats of black, hopefully I can do this Saturday 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted June 14 Share Posted June 14 Just now, pkinneb said: Last night I was able to get the second coat of red milk paint applied to the chair. Have I mentioned milk paint is an art of its own? Well anyway this batch turned out perfect (the first coat was just a bit thin) It takes about 6+ hours to get the paint mixed, just stir every 30 min Once its mixed well and has rested for at least 20 min you pour the paint (under the foam etc) through a paper filter for use Then test it to see how its going on, like I said I nailed this batch and it was great to work with. Hear is the first leg done good coverage with very little running. 2nd coat complete Next up two coats of black, hopefully I can do this Saturday Looking good! That's a really deep color! So, you're mixing your own milk paint? Just curious why mix your own rather than using something like General Finishes Milk paint? For the record, my only experience with "milk paint" is the General Finishes which is actually an acrylic I believe.. What kind of mix ratios and media? Why does it take so long to mix? You mentioned potential runs. I assume you brushed this on? Is it so thin that runs are hard to control off the brush? Sorry for so many questions, some new ground here for me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted June 14 Author Share Posted June 14 1 hour ago, Kev said: Looking good! That's a really deep color! So, you're mixing your own milk paint? Just curious why mix your own rather than using something like General Finishes Milk paint? For the record, my only experience with "milk paint" is the General Finishes which is actually an acrylic I believe.. What kind of mix ratios and media? Why does it take so long to mix? You mentioned potential runs. I assume you brushed this on? Is it so thin that runs are hard to control off the brush? Sorry for so many questions, some new ground here for me... Thanks! Once the process is finished with two coats of black and the final 3 or 4 coats BLO/MS/varnish applications it provides a very rich dark brown/black color. Yes using the original Milk Paint companies product. Its used a lot with Windsor chair makers and what I learned on and in fact the only one I have used. At this point getting to the point where I kind of know what I'm striving for so probably won't switch just becuase I don't want to learn a new system 🙂 Really depends on color, for the red I do two parts MP powder to two parts distilled water, mix for about 4 hours then add a third part water and mix for another couple hours. The time is becuase it takes a while for the powder to soak up the water. I've seen times from a couple hours to overnight, I find the 6 hrs works best for me. You will see with black I will go thinner 5 parts water to 2 parts powder. Each color behaves differently. I recently did black over tan on my shavehorse seat and the tan required like 6/2. Correct I use a brush and yes if you get it to thin it will definitely run worse, its paint so you will always have some. If you add water to the mix you can use it in as little as 30 min but if you make it too thin and need to add powder it takes hours to absorb into the mixture. NP glad to help provide some clarity if possible. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted June 15 Author Share Posted June 15 Today I started by prepping the red for the first coat of black. First I hit it with 3000 grit Trizact pad to knock any high spots off then a quick blow off with compressed air. You definitely want to do this outside as it makes a bit of a mess. Then I burnish it in with a lint free T-Shirt Next I mixed up the black here you can see the powder and then with the water added. I mix the black thinner becuase I don't want to paint the chair black but rather want it kind of translucent which will give me that deep rich dark brownish burgundy color when the oil mix hits it. Like the red I mix every 30 min over several hours. Then its time to get on on the chair. I like to start with the spindles and cover the seat so that I don't get splattered paint on it. Here you can see while I try to knock as much paint off int the cup as I can I still get a fair amount so i just paint it on several spindles and then come back and brush it in. I find this keeps the mess to a minimum. First coat done Quick rub down with a Mirka pad and on to the second coat Second coat... I used the Mirka pad on the second coat but it's raining now so tomorrow I will take it outside and blow it off. If all looks good I will start applying the MS/BLO/Poly mix coats. That's when all the hard work pays off this thing will really pop 🙂 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted June 16 Share Posted June 16 Looking good. It’s hard to tell from the pic but can you currently see the red thru the black? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted June 16 Share Posted June 16 Ditto @Coop's question.. Also, what's the dry time? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted June 16 Author Share Posted June 16 1 hour ago, Coop said: Looking good. It’s hard to tell from the pic but can you currently see the red thru the black? Yes sir, I'll try to get a better pic tomorrow when I take it out to blow off the black dust from the Mirka pad. 1 hour ago, Kev said: Ditto @Coop's question.. Also, what's the dry time? About 30 min to add another coat or to knock down high/rough spots over night and you will need sand paper 🙂 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted June 16 Share Posted June 16 What type of working time does the milk give you before you realize that you have brushed an area one to many times? Quote "Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not; remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." - Epicurus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted June 16 Author Share Posted June 16 6 hours ago, Chet said: What type of working time does the milk give you before you realize that you have brushed an area one to many times? With the red there is no issues but when you go over with the black you gotta keep moving otherwise you will not get the transparent look i'm going for. I try not to brush over more then 2 or 3 times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted June 16 Author Share Posted June 16 Hopefully this pic provides a better view of what I am going for. Once you add the oil mix topcoat this will really pop Speaking of top coats lets get it mixed up. My first coat I use 2 parts varnish to 1 part BLO and 1 part MS. I just mark off the parts on a mason jar ...and now lets get it on the chair This will dry back to a more matte finish but the subsequent coats will bring a deep rich top coat. FWIW I think I mentioned it but if not this is Peter Galbert's process that I follow. Oh and this is an oil finish so proper rag management is a must! I hang mine over the trash can when its hard I can move to the next coat, usually about a day. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted June 16 Share Posted June 16 Looking amazing! Do you sand between these finish coats as well? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted June 17 Share Posted June 17 Wow. The top coat does make a big difference! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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