Coop

Chet, how much of the sapele that went int the bed is qtr sawn?

Ok, I visioned the doors being on the front, white side of your original drawing. I’ll sit back and watch 😁

Thanks and to all as well. It really feels great to be an American, especially looking at the chaos in other parts of the world!

The taller cabinet is oriented 90* to the left of how it will be, correct? Is that cabinet grade ply, or supposed to be?

That’s gonna be cool! I could see a small tv mounted to the side of the taller section.

I was wondering. So the three on the right use round rare earth magnets?

And you can cut them to length, obviously. Cool!

That looks darn cool. I was expecting rare earth type magnets. Where did you source those?

8k Author Posted yesterday at 11:34 AM · IP I was able to find some glaze locally at Sherwin Williams so, decided to move forward with this finishing test today.. I Left the inside and underside of the lid unfinished so I'd have comparisons. The back is as done as it's going to get with just a coat of the Potassium Dichromate and a coat of amber shellac. The confusion is that you said here that you used “Potassium Dichromate.” Did you use the Potassium on the underside and the sodium dichromate on the top side?

Looks like you have an experienced backhoe operator. Those guys are amazing. Looking good!

Ok, I’m confused. You said between the first two pics that it was potassium dichromate. Typo?

The top piece looks really neat. What part does the Potassium Dichromate play and how did you apply it? Can we assume that since you applied shellac prior to the glaze, that the darker streaks are the result of the glaze and not due to the grain of the wood?

I’ll look into the Incra I-Box as I really like box joints. Probably because my dt’s leave a lot to be desired!

I experienced that with my 6yo + jig up until about a year ago. I’ve always used Rockler’s brass setup bars and started using a spiral up cut bit. I also found that pushing the piece thru and picking it up instead of pulling it back thru the bit made an amazing difference. A tad more time consuming but well worth the effort.

What made the joints not acceptable for a client project?

Thanks bud. Happy Father’s Day to you and other dads out there.

Well done!

Hey bud, I’m usually aligned with your ideas and purchases but unfortunately I don’t see the value here. With a whole lot less woodworking experience than you have, I may be wrong. One, there are very few times that I use a feather board on the ts. Usually on the router table and bs and I can’t recall a video of yours that you used one. Two, i definitely don’t like the idea that it doesn’t lock down to the top if it was designed to aid in kickback, I would think that to be a major consideration. I guess your usage will tell. Three, I can see the added advantage to this tool to be repetitive cutting of exact size strips off of a board without having to cut them against the fence. To do this, I use this devise from Rockler. https://www.rockler.com/thin-rip-tablesaw-jig Probably the only Harvey tool that I have seen that I wouldn’t buy. Sorry for the negative feedback.

On the templates, did you outline the chisels and freehand route them out?

Great looking tool box bud. The hardware and finish sets it off. I hope the neurologist is able to give her some relief.

That’s a neat idea!

My neighbor is just getting his repairs done from the tornado, 3 months ago. He had the same problem with his trades. He has promised them each, a 12 pack of Corona on Friday, if they show on Monday. 8:00 Monday morning, they show up!

I need a router bit cabinet badly. I don’t see any labels for your bits. How do you identify yours, I.e. 1/8”, 1/4” etc round over etc.?

Thanks. That’s what I visioned.

That would be appreciated.