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Posts posted by Bushwacked

  1. 11 hours ago, Coop said:

    I gotta ask, why would you replace a pretty door like that?


    10 hours ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said:

    I would assume that they have updated the house to a more modern style and the front door doesn’t fit.  Then again maybe Drew just wants a challenging build.

    Hah! Bryan is correct on both 🙂  ... Although, I have never liked all glass doors like that to begin with. Crafstman style doors are my all time favorite! 

  2. 1 hour ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said:

    The first thing to do is measure the opening.  The door and jamb should be an inch smaller.  Another thing to search is Stave core construction.  Doing solid wood can obviously be done, but the grain direction is important as well as the species, want a wood that doesn’t have large swings in wood movement.  If it is covered by a porch you can use a wider array of finishes.  I know not specific but just things I researched when I was thinking of doing ours after the estimates we got that I mentioned in that other thread.  Check out This is Carpentry, I think Gary Katz made a couple doors, he is a “finish and trim carpentry” expert.


    Thanks for all that, will definitely be researching all of that ... It will be covered, about 5' of covering that never sees direct sun and only would get wet if we got crazy with a water hose. so in my picture, if I measure the brown area, it should be an inch smaller than that?


    4 minutes ago, Coop said:

    While I’m looking, is the pictured door your current one or one that you would like to build?

    About 8 months ago, I built an interior door using solid walnut and have had no problems with it at all. I also built the jamb and casing and drilled and mortised for the hardware.  Mine was much simpler as it didn’t have the side lites like yours shown but an opening is an opening. You obviously have to account for things such as brick molding. I specified to my builder, the size opening that I wanted where you are limited to your current opening. There are several YouTube videos out there as I’m sure you have researched. Some are really strange and some are very professional.

    That is the actual door in there now.

  3. Soooo part of the reason I was posting the other door video was because I was researching front door vids. 


    this is 68W x 80 1/4H (brown parts) basically. 

    my questions are … 

    1) how do I go about measuring actual size so I know how big to build my jamb? 

    2) is there more too it than basically building a bigger version of a floating panel cabinet door? I know the doorknobs are kinda a special thing but just talking about the overall build. 

    any tips/advice or good YouTube vids to watch? Kev you sure your wife doesn’t want a new front door so I can watch 🤣🤣

  4. On 9/10/2021 at 8:59 PM, Coop said:

    I wore one of your tee shirts with the full intent of having my friend take a pic of me in front of the Festool booth and darned if I didn’t forget. I even ironed it before I left home! 

    why is this not surprising 🙂

    • Haha 1
  5. On 9/12/2021 at 10:18 PM, Coop said:

    I bought a 0.125 liter can at a Woodworking show Friday and look forward to using it.

    will enjoy hearing your thoughts too ... I have a few projects coming up and would also like to try some Rubio too

    • Like 1
  6. 14 hours ago, Coop said:

    I guess I’ve never seen a $26k door and I’ve never owned a home that suggested that I need one. Personally, I liked the one they took out better, although it didn’t have side doggy doors. 

    haha, ya that is the first time I have seen that type of window openings on doors before. Neat little idea to just open all the way

  7. 3 hours ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said:

    We had a basic door priced for our house, nothing elaborate, just something you would see at a home center, but since it was a custom size due to door opening, the let’s call it $4K door was going to be $11,000.  So I could see how that door is $26k.

    Interesting. Never actually paid much attention to doors lol 


    $26k seems like a lot, although I know the arched entrance brings in a lot of difficulty not normally there in a lot of doors.  Although I was kinda shocked when he said ash was one of their favorite woods for doors. Also, the design element for the side windows to open and get a breeze through I thought was a really cool idea. I mean, for somewhere probably not Texas where you could use this for more than a month or 2 a year that is .. 

  9. 11 hours ago, Coop said:

    You should be good. I’m at a loss as to what holds the pulley to the shaft. The key only, I think, keeps it turning. I don’t see threads in the center of the shaft where a screw and washer would keep it from running off the shaft. How long have you had the machine? 

    I have had this jointer for about 2-3 years now, bought new.

    10 hours ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said:

    Coop, the key if machined properly should provide all the tension to keep the pulley to the shaft, hence no need for a screw or anything.  Now since the key came out, I would still try to contact PM cause that shouldn’t come out without some force.  My guess is that the key was never fully seated and over time worked its way out.  

    I was thinking the same thing ... will still contact them and see what they have to say.

    9 hours ago, Coop said:

    My closest observation similar machine is my bs. Both the upper wheel and lower are secured with a bolt to the shaft, keeping them both co-planer, otherwise there is a chance of a run out on one or the other. There is probably something that I’m not seeing or understanding. My bad. 

    ya its kind of a goofy design ... that little pin helps keep the wheel the belt runs on and the blade head connected. I would assume the the belt drive doesnt need to be exactly co-planer is the blade head is fixed and no chance of run out like the bandsaws 

  10. 14 hours ago, Coop said:

    When you reinserted the key into the keyway, was it snug? The key looks a little misshapened in the pic. May want to order another key. If I’m not mistaken, the key is kind of like the shear pins in the old out board motor propellers. They are designed the shear off in case there is an overload, or in the case of the propeller, you hit a stump or rock. Glad that’s all it was.

    not sure what its actually supposed to look like haha ... it was snug once I got it back in there though. finished milling the last 10 boards just fine. 

  11. 1 hour ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said:

    First thing would be how big of a cut your taking, it sounds like it’s being bogged down.  Have you tried with less down force pressure to see if it happens.  Have you or are you able to check the belt tension?  

    Small cuts. Like 32nd heavy. 


    then sitting in the ground I found me a little metal piece randomly … 


    looked at the pulleys… 


    and figured that’s gotta be it … 



    got it back in and everything is working like it should again … crazy stuff. Never figure that thing would have wiggled loose like it did. Glad I randomly found it on the ground too haha. 

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  12. was milling down some wood. About halfway through on this piece of poplar the motor does this … it also takes like 20 seconds to get up to speed when turned on. 

    going to be contacting PM as well but curious if y’all have dealt with this or have an idea of what is going on? 

  13. 13 hours ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said:

    So does the bed fold up so it can be more like a couch?  I would think that if you were camping in this and the weather was bad, you would want a place to sit that wasn’t the bed or the front seats (unless the fronts are made to swivel).

    No, was debating on the folding bed and all that ... decided not to on this. There should be enough foam pads to move around to create a bench against one  of the walls. Also, can use the bumper as a footrest if you are sitting in the back. Not super comfy, but can be done.

    The front captains chairs do not swivel, this van isnt that fancy 🙂 

    10 hours ago, Coop said:

    Good gosh yes! Mid to late 60’s where the shag carpet probably cost more than my van itself. Sure was hard to get the stains out (Ripple wine). Add an 8 track and a reverb and a surfboard on top! 


  14. On 9/10/2021 at 4:36 PM, Kev said:

    Ok, this is cool!  lol

    Finish on the floor is tricky!  In all honesty, I think I would go with removable indoor/outdoor mats that are washable.  I can buy used ones from the guys that come into refineries and replace/clean these mats once a week for about 5 bucks each..  I also think Harbor Freight might carry them.  I know I have a bunch of them as that's what I used in my hunting tent and they worked awesome!

    As for the rest of it, sad as it sounds, I might consider paint.  It's washable and durable as well as easy to touch up.


    Interesting thought on the mats. Going to have to look into that as that does sound like a great keep clean solution. 

    paint eh? Didn’t even cross my mind … what color would you be thinking for the wood? White? I’ll have to bring this up to my buddy. 

    On 9/10/2021 at 7:23 PM, Bob said:

    No suggestions for ya.  But this did take me back to my misspent youth, where the goal was either a muscle car or van with ugly shag carpet and a mattress.  If you were really cool you would turn your van into both.  Thanks for the memory blast! 

    Lol!! Shag carpet in those big conversion vans. I remember my moms and she’d drive around the baseball team when we were little. 

    On 9/10/2021 at 7:49 PM, Woodenskye (Bryan) said:

    What about doing an epoxy finish.  

    I was thinking that but not sure on how well the weather would be or how slippery etc if it got wet boots on it 


    Test fitting the foam pads …




    I’m 6’2 and I fit diagonally accord without bending goofy. I was surprised by this. 


    starting work on the sink … 

    • Like 3
  15. When my buddy called me up and mentioned he’d been watching a lot of YouTube and bought a minivan for me to convert, I first laughed and thought he was kidding . He wasn’t so I said hell ya let’s do it!! 

    the sweet ride … 


    overall design idea at the moment ..


    getting a template cutout for the in floor storage…




    Gluing the bigger pieces together 





    this is pretty fun getting to do something out of the ordinary! 

    my main question for now is what type of finish would be good for this? Mainly thinking of the floor in the “kitchen” area where shoes/dirt/water/mud will be in contact with it. 

    I was thinking maybe shellac or something cheap for the majority of everything? 


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