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Chet
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Posts posted by Chet
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Submitted on the old forum by Coop
Is there a problem with using this sander without a dc system? I have quiet a bit of sanding to do using the Festool sanding disc and will be doing this outside. I’d prefer not using the Festool vac as I will have to empty pretty often. Will the sander still discharge the dust out it’s port without clogging up internally?
Follow up posts
1) You can but, I'm not sure I would.. Pretty hard on the sander I would think.
2) If you think about the amount of residue left on the surface of your wood when sanding without any vac in place, you would probably have just as much, maybe more left in and around the internal parts of your sander.
3) Use the vac. If there is a blower in the sander which I doubt there is, it's not going to clear the dust. Plus not using will increase the heat, reduce paper and pad life.
4) The only 60 & 80 grit sanding disc I have are 5” with no holes so I used my old DeWalt for that sanding. Then connected the Festool up to the vac and used their 80 & 100 grit.
5) I though an F150 was a Ford truck?
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Submitted on the old forum by Woodenskye
I wonder if this will be competition to Grizzly and others. I have heard really good things about their dust collectors. This is the group that bought Bridge City Tool Works. Is this going to be quality at a competitive price or just another cheap clone.
www.harveywoodworking.com/collections/ambassador
Follow up posts
1) I seen them come across my email today. Did check out their website. Not sure what to make of them yet.
2) If I was in the market for a new saw, I would be tempted to give this a shot. Then again giving it time may be prudent.
3) Interesting! They also have a saw they say is 4hp in that 3k range so, might also be some good competition for SS or PM as well. If/when the current PM craps out, I might just give them a try!
4) They look legitimate to me. Maybe that should be kev’s new replacement saw
5) I would certainly give it strong consideration as I think I'd be looking at Grizzly. I would have to research some more but, my quick preview looked pretty good for the money.
6) It certainly looks good for the money, and I would give it a shot. The other TS they have looked good as well. It looks like they are trying to get into both the mid range and higher end cabinet saws. I would be curious if they will have at Woodcraft to inspect since they appear to be a dealer. Too bad the closet Woodcrafts are 90 minutes away.
7) Agreed.. Personally, I don't think I have the following to reach out to them to test drive one or do a review on one either but, I would certainly love to do it! I also can't justify 2 table saw in the shop but, in reality, I've always wanted 2 because I hate changing out to the dado stack
8 ) Doesn't hurt to ask. If you spoke to the right person and showed them the debacle of the first PM you may get to do a test drive.
9) Might be worth an email but, I wouldn't really expect a response.
10) I remember reading a article on them after they bought bridge city. They seemed like a stand up company. That grew from a small company to a very high tech manufacturing firm over a short time in business year 10yrs or so. I can’t wait to start seeing some reviews. I don’t see my needing a new ts anytime soon. I do like new tools tho
11) UST DO IT!!
I know you don't believe your following is large enough, but with this forum, the other forum, your videos and the PM issues, if I was the marketing director for Harvey, I would definely consider. You are honest and it comes across in your videos. Outside of Marc, you are 1 of the few who aren't running a SS.12) I really appreciate the kind words! It's truly humbling to hear them!
I will drop them a note.13) 2 table saws back to back with an out feed table between. Plant a power feeder on the saw with the dado stack. Oh have I thought about this topic
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Submitted on the old forum by bushwacked
I am thinking about possibly picking one of these up with an HD gift card I still have not used for my b-day. Been wanting one like it for awhile but never wanted to pay the festool money ... thought on this one? Even though my shop is Makita, I would be willing to go dual batteries for this one. I dont see anything in the Makita roadmap for their version of this one. Bosch is the only other one I have seen come out with it, but between Bosch and Milwaukee, I would go the latter.
I also thought I saw that festool attachments would work for this as well, if ever needed ... need to dig up where I saw that though just to make sure I am not crazy
Follow up post
1) I have the Festool version and it's nice but, way over priced and I'd never buy it again. The only time I use it is for those rare occasions when I want the 90 degree attachment. The rest of the time, I run my Dewalts.
Now, with that said, if I were starting over today, I'd probably go Milwaukee. I just think they're a little better quality tool. I would also have to look strongly at the Rigid because of the lifetime warranty. Under their warranty, if they discontinue a tool that you own and that tool breaks, if they can't fix it, they'll replace it with the upgraded model. I know that Rigid isn't considered "top of the line" stuff but, with a warranty like that I think I'd be willing to take some chances.
Now, just a brief note on my Dewalts.. I'm noticing the chuck starting to go on one of the drills. It's the oldest on in the bunch and I've run them for quite a few years without issue. I've moved that drill to the 'reserve' position and am waiting for one of the other chucks to start to go. If, by the end of the year, they're all still holding up well then I'll just replace the one drill in kind staying with Dewalt. If I get a couple more starting to go, I may make the switch to another brand and then really dig into the weeds on Milwaukee or Rigid.2) I have the festool and really like it, but I doubt I will ever buy another festool drill. I know Kyle at RR Buildings did a review of this on his YT channel.
3) Ya to me Milwaukee always seems to come out with the new stuff first.
Rigid has a hell of a warranty and seem to be making more quality stuff in the past few years as well.
If I was in the market for a brand swap I'd definitely give rigid a hard look as well. If they had the 4 in 1 I'd probably go with them on this purchase just for the warranty.4) Just make sure to look in to the Ridgid warranty before going that route. I was thinking of getting some and reading reviews of it taking weeks to months to get their tool back from being repaired or replaced. Some said Home Depot just replaced their tool right then. Not sure I would want to wait weeks when I was probably in the middle of something when it broke.
5) Just watched his quick review ... Seemed to be pretty positive overall. For what I'm thinking of using it for it seemed to check most the boxes as well
6) Very good point! In my case, there's a local guy you can take the stuff to and he deals with the company for you. Still, no money out of your pocket. I also don't know what his turnaround time for these tools is, it could still very well be a long time.
7) Oh very interesting on the wait ... Although free is free and I would assume in major use items I'd have at least 2 of. IE drills.... Curious what from their line would break and I'd be hoses having to wait a month on
8 ) Pick any tool in their line but, it would be the same regardless of tool brand. When you're down, you're down.
9) Hmmmm. Maybe I'm just not bought as much as most to these systems??
I have 2 drills and 1 impact
Tracksaw and tablesaw
2 shopvacs
Angle grinder
Mobile light
Sawzall
So if I am down a tool I have a backup for everything but the grinder and sawzall even though it may be a little slower.
So maybe I'm just not invested enough to where it hurts me as bad as most?? So if one went down I'd still be ok for the most part ... At least I think hahah. Haven't had an issue mid project yet at least from the above tools10) The only battery tools I run are the drills, impact, and angle grinder. Everything else is corded.
I typically run 4 drills and one impact. I have a 5th battery drill, the Festool one mentioned above.
I have a corded angle grinder if the battery one poops.
So, would I ever really be "down", no. But, the point is that if you're taking something for repair, I don't think it matters which brand you choose, they'll all probably be similar in turnaround time to get the tool back. I just don't know that Rigid would be any worse than Milwaukee? But, I haven't dealt with them so, don't have any first hand knowledge.11) I have the Milwaukee m12 drill and impact both fuel versions and I’ve had no issues in the 5 years I’ve had them. I’ve pretty much have abused the impact by building a couple decks with it. Also have the 12v hacksaw, cutoff tool, stapler, vacuum and light. No issues at all with any off them. Recently I bought the m18 drill and impact both are brushless. Only reason I did that is I got a deal on them at hd. Also been wanting to jump to the 18v for the tool options. Also picked up the 7 1/4 circular saw to use for cross cutting sheet goods. Have not been happy with that tool as it just seems under powered. Maybe it’s the 60 tooth blade in it but even spinning empty just seems weak.
If I had to start over I’d not shy away from ridgid just for the warranty. Don’t like the weight of their tools though. Have grabbed their drills in the stores a few times and feels like you are holding a brick. -
Submitted on the old forum by Kev
Before I left WA, I sold off my shop fox HCM as I just didn't use it much and it was another item to haul to the new shop. Well, since being in the new shop and doing more videos, I find myself pulling out the Domino a lot and steering away from more traditional joinery over speed. Some of that is just life! Me trying to create enough content while I'm gone on the road. Some of it, in all honesty, is laziness. I won't lie!
I have some blanket chests coming up, I think, where this tool would come in very handy with all those ebony plugs that I need to cut. Now, full transparency, this could just as easily be me kicking myself for getting rid of a tool that did the job and wishing I still had it! Whatever the reason, I ordered a new one.
The old one was the Shop Fox and I was never overly impressed with it. I found the bed to not hold well enough to cut a mortise of any length without having to go back and clean up the edges. So, with that knowledge and experience, I knew I wasn't going to go back to that machine. Additionally, with my recent woes with PM, I knew that I wasn't going that direction even though the Jet and PM ones really have good reviews.
So, what's left? Delta makes one but, the bed didn't look that much better than the Shop Fox version. Rikon makes one that kind of peaked my interest. It wasn't the cheapest but, it did look like they paid attention to the details to improve what I didn't like on the Shop Fox. So, that's what I ordered. Of course, I'll do a review when it arrives.Here's the one that I ordered.. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SOR41CO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Follow up post
1) Will be interested to hear how this one works and compared to the shop fox ... I've always been warned to stay away from benchtop stuff when possible.
2) Normally, I tend to agree. However, in this case with the amount of use it will see in most of our shops, a bench top model makes perfect sense. Also, the PM version that I used to have my eye on is about $1500.00. I just have a tough time swallowing that pill for a tool that isn't going to see a great deal of use.
3) Agreed. Lots of money for something you'd use a couple times a year.
However... Do you not use it because it sounded like the first one kinda sucked and didn't make M&T fun / quicker than it was messing with everyone.
Or do you just not build using that method? Maybe if you had a sweet tool that was a joy you might use it more?
Timing and videos I can see ... But I'm curious how much slower it is. I know dominoes is super fast but maybe you build one chest with the HCM and one with dominoes?
.... Just some thoughts4) No dominos in the chests at this point that I know of. For the chests, it comes down more to cutting all the plug holes.
5) I never liked the HCM I have, basically it is holding down the corner of a tarp I have in the shed. The domino is quick, I would rather buy the pantorouter, but that isn't exactly a cheap tool either.
6) Agreed.. I've thought about that particular tool as well. Unfortunately, I have enough green and red in my shop where I'm feeling borderline of catching a bunch of crap on YT about expensive tools. I just felt this might be a tool that was reasonably within reach.
7) Kev you shoulda said something sooner! I woulda traded you my hcm even up for your domino
8 ) lol.. Not really a fair trade I'm afraid.. Unless you had a floor model HCM.
9) No it would be a really good deal for one of us! I’ve actually never used mine. Craigslist special couldn’t even tell you the brand without going out to the shop.
10) That’s the same one I was looking at getting. I look forward to seeing your take on it. From what I’ve read Rikon is making some changes to the middle of the road price machine and trying to make them even closer to premium line at just a lower price point.
11) I'll certainly be sure to do a review.
I have one of their slow speed grinders and like it so far. To be completely honest, I don't have enough miles on it yet to offer a proper review.12) Great this will must likely be my next purchase after the bandsaw in couple weeks.
13) I got called out for work again but, I'm hoping to have time for the initial review before I go..
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Submitted on the old forum by bushwacked
So I don't do much router/flush trim bitting so I'm curious ... Why the different thicknesses? Do they do anything different? Minus the height which is obvious what does having a fatter flush trim bit get you? Longer life?
Follow up posts
1) Many times, it just depends on some corners that you need to get into. If I were doing a lot of straight flat flush trimming, I would think the larger bit would have an easier time staying cool and therefor last longer.
2) Yeah, if you have a pattern with a tight inside radius, you would use a smaller od bit.
3) Also there is a height difference, the two on top are shorter then the two on the bottom. Another thing that is nice about these is they have a bearing on top and bottom.
4) I was just reading about these bits on Infinity's website and in the long haul of a hobbyist's shop they all would be nice to have. The shorter ones can handle up to 5/4 stock and the taller ones can handle up to 8/4. They recommend using the larger diameter bits in your router table only. The larger diameter bits because of their large diameters have a higher angle of attack which would be helpful in highly figured woods and also patterns with reversing grain. The smaller diameter bits along with the above mentioned use in a tight radius they are also good for trimming veneer and laminates.
Hope this helps.5) I thought i would add to this very old discussion. I purchased one of the Mega Flush trim bits, I got the 3/4 diameter X 2 inch length. I have been using it quite a bit on my current project and it has been more then worth the money. One of the cleanest looking cuts I have seen. The finished surface is like you went over it with your smoothing hand plane. Shame of it is some of the places I used it won't show in the final product.
6) Thanks for the update Chet! I've been on the fence a bit with these bits!
7) good to know if I am ever in the market that it wont be a waste of money
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Submitted on the old forum by Kev
Just like the title says, lets talk jointers..
I'm currently looking into and considering my options. I have a very open mind. I do have a few requirements that I think are all reasonable..
1. 12" or larger
2. Reasonably long beds
3. Helical Head
4. Stand alone unit - I don't need/want a combo.
5. Reasonably priced - I'm looking at a 12" minimum so, I know it's expensive!
Interested in the group's thoughts on the subject.
For the record, I currently have 2 (possibly 3) in mind so, I'm really interested in the conversation here!Follow up posts
1) Since you just got the 15" planer, I think 12" would be a good choice. I know Felder does make just jointer, not sure about Minimax. I'm sure your looking at PM and Grizzly. Baliegh may be worth considering. I don't know about finding used, then again upgrading to HH may make it the same price as new. 3 phase and a VFD could be an option.
2) Damn! Ok, let me toss out a couple additional items to the 5 listed above..
6. I'm buying new
7. Not considering 3 phase
That's why I love this group! They tend to think outside the box and consider things I didn't even think of!
When this discussion looks like it's nearing the end, I'll let you know what I was considering up front and what my final decision is. As I said, my mind is open so, no decisions have been made at this point.3) In the end it really comes down to what features are you willing to compromise on, and how much crying your willing to subject your wallet to. I will add I more thing that doesn't jive with your list. If you got a great deal on a 12" or 16" combo machine you could leave as a jointer and only change if the planer is down or needs maintenance.
4) It may be a silly item but I just can't get used to the idea of the Euro style guard on the jointers like Felder or Hammer. I just don't think I personally like or would get used to the idea of taking my hand/push pad of the work to lift it over the guard.
5) I have actually considered this.
6) I have actually considered this.
7) In your years ... What is the widest piece you have actually said ... Crap I wish I had a jointer to send this through easily. Is it 12 or 16"? Or bigger? I would start from there and think if you would ever be back in that same spot again. If so, how many times...
Also the EU guard is kinda weird...I don't think it would be a deal breaker for me though. It's a new tool and we always seem to find a way to conform to them if they are good at what they do... At least I do it seems. Now a junk tool with something quirky... Not so much haha.
Take for example kapex ... That handle is different than any others. You still seem to love it even though that was a change.8 ) I've certainly had some wide stuff from time to time where I wish I'd of had a wider jointer. I usually end up on the drum sander for those particular times. Most recently, the top on the quilting desk. I purposely cut those boards down because my jointer wouldn't handle the widths I wanted to use. Funny part about that project is that it's one of the rare occasions where an 8" jointer would have worked.
9) Looks of really good responses here! Looking to dive into more specifics.. So, let's dial in a couple that I'm looking at along with some numbers and perhaps give you guys some additional insight into my thought process..
1. Powermatic 1791307 Model 1285 3 HP 1-Phase 12-Inch Jointer with Helical Cutterhead - $7000.00
2. Hammer A3-41 - Helical Head - 16" - $5700.0010) I'm kinda shocked the hammer is so much cheaper for 4 more inches ...
Really save money and get 4" I think I'd go with that. What is putting the smaller more pricey PM in front?
$5700 for jointer planer which everyone seems to have great things to say about... Seems like it's going to be tough to pass up11) It's a stand alone Jointer, not the jointer/planer
12) How long is the bed on the Hammer? I know the Powermatic is 84 inches which is a foot more then I have. Having 3 - 3 1/2 feet of material on the bed before you even get to the blades is nice.
13) I think the PM has longer beds than the hammer. The longest beds are the 16" grizzly that is right about $6K to $7K with spiral head depending on model. If it was me and I had your current setup, this is how I would proceed.
1) I would do what I could to purchase the Felder versus Hammer. I think it is a different class of machine, better build quality. I would go 12" on the Felder if it was closer to my budget.
2) I would probably buy a 16" jointer from Grizzly instead of 12" PM or 16" Hammer.14) I would love to pitch in here but the first three items of your requirements took me out of the game and the last two took me out of the park. However, I think it’s amazing that you are making this move. Good luck on your decision.
15) Awesome responses! Thank you!
@chet, The Hammer beds are a little shorter at 70" but, they have add on extensions for about $150 that extend it beyond the PM. Also, my current 6" PM has 66" beds on it.
Coop, lol.. Think of it more like spending my money and jump in the game.. It's really just a conversation about a jointer in this price range.
woodenskye, your response is really interesting! I have and like a lot of Grizz equipment but, was still surprised to see them as a legit option in this price range. Hammer and Felder are the same company, stand alone Felder version is around $8900. I'm curious about the dislike for the Hammer? I haven't made any decisions yet and usually listen very carefully to negative responses about equipment. There's always lots of positive comments and only a few negative comments. So, I tend to give a lot of weight to the "cons" instead of the shear number of "pros".
Also, for the record, I got to see the combo version of the Hammer in action in Mick's shop. The one I'm looking at is not the combo version but, the stand alone jointer version.
Any other brands out there worth legitimate consideration?16) Kev, it's not that I dislike the hammer, it's just the weight and build quality is better and if I am spending the money then I would prefer the better machine. Both are great machines, just comes down to my mindset.
Check out the Bailegh 12". It retails for $4895, has 88" beds, HH and DRO.17) I really appreciate the honest response! Just not sure I can justify 9k on a jointer...lol. The PM at 7k was about the top of my budget..
I honestly haven't looked at the Bailegh but, will add it to the looksie list! I also haven't checked to see if Laguna is in the market???18) Last time I looked I think the 12" Laguna was about $5000, but I have never seen a review, so would make me a bit weary.
19) So is felder like PM and hammer like jet/rikon?
I haven't heard a lot of good Baleigh reviews and some people seem to compare them to like the jet/Rikon/Laguna level of quality ... Although I've never seen one in person so who knows.
So is having a combo system so bad? Or is it because you already have a planer and then that would make it a waste kinda having 2 planers?20) Just to muddy up the waters here are two reviews of he 12 inch Laguna. First one is pretty extensive.
www.woodcraft.com/products/laguna-tools-12-parallelogram-jointer-with-sheartec-ii?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqurE3LWB5AIVICCtBh3BHQhEEAQYBSABEgLttPD_BwE
21) I would say Hammer and PM are in the same class. Felder is a step up, but Format thats an entirely different class. This is all my opinion.
22) I have a planer so, don't need a combo unit. I also have the room so, don't want a combo unit.
23) I'm biased since I have the Felder AD941. I prefer having a high quality combo unit since it is so easy to change over and as hasn't hindered my flow at all. That said, you just bought a nice planer
I'll agree that Felder wins in a Hammer vs Felder comparison. I know it's a lot to spend on a standalone jointer for the 16" Felder but it's simply a better machine (another reason I prefer the combo, it actually saved me money since I knew I wanted a 16" jointer). Heavier duty all the way around. The guard has been mentioned a few times. I prefer the euro guard over the porkchop. Imagine for a second a porkchop guard on a 16" machine. It would get in the way as you jointed a board. I have the euro comfort guard, which is segmented and never gets in the way.
All said, my vote is for the Hammer standalone jointer for you. It's a great machine, has none of the downfalls of the Hammer combo and is a superior machine to the PM. If you want to spend more money get the Felder jointer. I think you'll never notice the difference, but it is a better unit.
I would avoid Minimax, Laguna and Grizzly in this price range. Only Minimax or Laguna I'd buy is a bandsaw.24) Super glad you chimed in on this thread!
So, what makes the Felder several thousand better? I'm not asking to be snarky, I'm asking as I want the education.25) The major differences are with the planer (combo), jointer fence and overall build quality.
The 9 series Felder have a four post planer system, the 7 series and below (to include Hammer) have a single post. The changeover process on the Felder is quick and repeatable, while the Hammer isn't nearly as good.
As stated, I'm biased... Since I have the Felder it would be hard to go backwards, but in all honesty the Hammer will last a lifetime and at half the price is a no-brainer.26) Appreciate the response!
So, just to compare apples to apples, same question but compare the two stand alone units. I understand your bias and don't knock it. Just trying to understand the cost difference between the two machines.27) So I have no idea ... Why does the combo unit cost less $$?? To me that doesn't make much sense since you are getting 2 machine in 1 to save space as well. I would think it would be the opposite...
28) I'll try to explain this better. I paid $11,138 all in for my Felder AD941. (no taxes, but I did have to pay a bit for shipping)
I started with the idea of having a 12" or 16" jointer because I build big projects such as dining tables and countertops.
The 12" PM jointer is around 7K and the 15" PM planer is around 3K. Plus tax and shipping from most places.
With this arrangement I would still not have 16" capability on either machine and be just over 10K plus taxes.
With the Hammer/Felder lines you do get much more bang for your buck with the combo units.
They are essentially the same price for the stand alone jointer as the combo (give or take 10-20%)28) Mel's reasoning is sound for his shop/situation. Same reasoning in Mick's shop. I especially appreciate the way Mel put in dollars and cents because people see that big number and overlook the fact that they're getting 2 machines.
For me, I have the room so, don't want the combo unit. I understand that switching between them isn't difficult but, I'd like to avoid that step all together. -
Submitted on the old forum by Coop
I have a Jet JPS-10TS contractor-style table saw and a hybrid, if you will, HF dust collector with a two stage system with the Wynn filter mounted on a mobile base. Having nothing to compare it to other than a Craftsman shop vac, it works fairly well, except on the ts. I attach the dc to each machine as needed with a 10’ or so, 4” flex hose. The problem is, I occasionally have to clean out the ts cabinet of sawdust. Where on the drum sander, bs and jointer, the dc picks up all of the dust and chips. Is the ts issue to be expected and if not, does the problem lie with the ts or the dc? Someday, I will connect the dc to the ts, both completely empty and see what the ratio of dust left, to the dust collected is.
Follow up posts
1) Believe it or not, even with my system, I need to occasionally clean out the collection bit on my saw.
If your collection system is keeping the dust from flying all over the shop when using the saw, I'd say your system is doing its job.
I should clarify a couple things on my saw..
1. The new saw is very different and is actually designed to collect in the bin. There's a blade cup (I suppose that's what it's called) that sits directly below the blade that has a hose where my DC hooks up to it. The bin collects everything that escapes the cup.
2. The old saw without the fancy new system still needed to be cleaned out about twice a year.. Maybe 3 times depending on use.2) The only time I see chips or dust outside my saw is on the top when I take less than a rip cut, ie, a blades width or less. With as many openings as I have on the saw, it’s easy to believe that it’s the saw and not the dc. The reason for asking is that I’m thinking seriously of mounting the dc remotely and hard piping like others. I guess, if the HF system doesn’t perform, then I’ll need to upgrade. Thanks Kev for the response.
3) Coop, I would seal up the openings using foil tape, the kind used for HVAC. You probably can't seal everything, but worth a shot.
4) My saw is designed similar to Kev's and I too get residuals in the cabinet itself. I think this trends to be the case on most saws and I would guess that using a dado stack will cause more then the regular blade. My shop is all hard piped to each tool and my dust collector is just a 1 3/4 hp.
5) The four corners at the bottom, I did just that. But there is the slot in the front that allows for the tilt and a vent in the side, I guess for ventilation, plus the mass in the cabinet itself. Really my question/thinking is the dc as to whether it’s worth the hassle of moving and hard piping. Just didn’t want to put good money after bad. But, the ts seems to be a common problem so I may have a go at it. Thanks all.
6) So anyway last year I replaced my old Delta contractors saw 10" which had a square cone underneath the blade and twisty gear mechanicals that I attached a 4inch pipe to that then went to my vacum unit. anything that fell through from the saw was picked up and whisked away. It wasn't perfect, but large thin slices that fell through were easily removed.
I up graded to a flash sliding bench top panel saw that was worth 6 times what the delta cost me and the saw dust pick up is seriously XXXX. Theres this thin box thingy that encloses the blade under the table, the dust extraction is attached to a eclipse shaped 4inch pipe on the right side that runs down to an inside duct. The vac on the outside is attched to the other side of this duct.
Works fine till you get a think bit of scrap fall down inside that blade housing that cover the extraction port. Doesn't matter how much suck is on the end of that pipe nothing goes anywhere.
Also a lot of dust ends up on the floor under the machine that doesn't go into the pick up. If it had the same sort of pick up as the delta it would be awesome, but it doesn't and I'm for ever having to clean out the pile of dust inside on the floor. So I leave the side panel off for easy access. Panel on or Panel off doesn't alter how much dust is sucked into the extraction pipe.
What did alter how much dust was sucked up through my vac unit was when i vented the unit straight out through the wall instead of into a bag. The saw dust now just hits the ground outside and when it piles up too much I load it into a wheel barrow and dump it in the garden. Or if its treated into a fire or over the fence into the neighbors.
I have run hard pipe from the main vac unit to the various areas where the gear is then i run a flexible pipe which i can then move from unit to unit. Back at the vac I just need to open and close a couple of gates to get the flow to go where i want it.
The dust extraction unit is a 2hp 230vac I have a smaller wheelie unit that I is dedicated to the panel saw.
Despite my hate of dust I pick up probably about 90% of it, the rest ends up on the floor, the walls, the ceiling and everything else stacked around the place.
On the drum sander i have a 2 stage wet dry power vac that's designed to suck through a 2 inch pipe. Which is what comes out the top of the bench top drum sander. This works better than hoking the main unit into it via reduction fittings. For the hand tools I have a small cheap tool vac unit that plugs into the power tools outlet. And at the back of the shed I have a big two foot 3 speed industrial pedestal fan which i turn on when I remember and it blows a lot of the floating saw dust out the door. -
In the first two pictures the workers are getting a lot done, then in the third picture dad gets in the way and slows the process down. Typical, management always in the way.?
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Submitted on the old forum by Coop
I have a Grizz G0555X bandsaw and one of the screws that tightens the bearing adjustments is stripped. It locks the bearings that ride on the side of the blade in place. Actually the aluminum block that the screw threads into is stripped. Should I order a replacement part from Grizzly or are there better after market replacement guides available?
Follow up posts
1) If I needed to replace the guides on either of my bandsaws, I think I'd be looking at Carter for new ones. Certainly nothing wrong with replacing with the stock stuff, they obviously worked for quite some time for you.
2) I really like my Carter guides. Pretty easy to change out. They do have great customer service if you need to call them for help.
3) Thanks guys. I’ll give the Carter guides a look.
4) Kev and Kent, looking at the Carter bearings, they do not come with a lower thrust bearing from what I can tell. Do y’alls Have them?
5) Sorry to say that I can't offer a personal experience.. I only know that they come highly recommended and they would be my first look if I were replacing mine..
6) Thanks. They are about $50 more than the Grizz guides but you never hear anyone bragging about how good their Grizz guides are ! I’ll give Carter a call tomorrow for the scoop. Also, on Carters thrust bearing, the outside edge of the bearing rides against the blade instead of the face of it which makes sense.
7) I was wondering about the lower “thrust bearing” that rides against or close to the back of the blade. The illustration does not show it but customer service this morning said that it does. Got it ordered. Thanks
8 ) The new retrofit guides from Carter came in today and I was amazed at the weight when I picked up the box and even more so when I saw the construction and mass of these things. I was a little disappointed with the instructions as they are mostly pics and they leave a lot to be desired but will probably be more simplistic as I start the assembly tomorrow. We’ll see.
9) Don't forget that you can give them a call if you need help.
10) Either I’m a complete DA or I got the only bad piece they ever produced. Unfortunately they are on the east coast and I’m an hour behind them. Something ain’t right and I’ll have to wait until Monday to find out. 1000 to 1 they’ll make it right.
11) I just spoke with Mr. Perez, the owner of Carter Products. He explained that the lines were all lit up and he actually answered the phone. He also explained that the Grizz bs is not the easiest to fit but that there is a part that will remedy my problem. The new part will go out today at no charge. Super nice guy and great customer service. A review of the new guides to follow.
12) Coop, hopefully smooth sailing once the part comes in. What's the part?
13) He called it the bracket. The cap looking part that fits over the bottom of the round vertical bar. Thru it, fits the horizontal bar that the upper guides attach to. The hole drilled in this bracket was offset and the thrust bearing was not lined up with the blade.
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Submitted on the old forum by Kev
I've created this thread about 4 times today and removed it each time because I don't want to step on toes or have it derail in a bad direction, that's just not my intent.
But.... Once again today, my feed is full of SS owner making "mental" mistakes and having trips. Each time, their fingers were never in harms way. The trips were caused from either forgetting to put it in bypass mode or not realizing their miter fence was going to hit. All having to do with metal objects.
My question is this.. Do you really want to pay a couple hundred bucks for these mistakes or would you rather just pay for the blade if it was damaged?
For the record, I am not anti saw stop! They make a really nice saw! Had their technology differentiated between metal and flesh, I would have been right on the bandwagon. However the term "flesh sensing technology" is a bit of a misnomer!Follow up posts
1) I see pros and cons of SS, but I don't know if I would purchase 1. My biggest reason is I have heavy respect (overly cautious) of something spinning a sharp object really fast. I would probably forget to set in bypass mode and having an activation would really make me angry.
2) Its interesting that you mentioned this today. On my latest project I was cutting some miters just this morning using the Incra 5000 sled. Because of the high angle I was cutting I had to add a 45 degree jig to the sled to get the set up I needed. Everything I did during the operation was safe but my one hand was about 3.5 inches from the blade and I was mindful of this the whole time. Never once did I think that there was no concern because I have a SawStop, my mindfulness came from the fact that I don't want to hit a spinning blade with my hand. I don't work any different in my shop now then I did 7 years ago before I purchased this saw. To me you can't change your thinking, it is the only tool in the shop with the technology. My bandsaw, miter saw, router, jointer and planer don't have it and you can't move around the shop turning on and off your safe thinking, it need to be on the whole time. The technology in my mind is an "in addition to" not an "instead of" feature. I respect the spinning blade, never does it enter my mind that there is a safety feature there when I am using the saw. I wouldn't want to get lazy in my operation and find out in a really bad way that I had the one brake that SawStop made that is flawed.
When I first got my saw I had a brake fire because I was using my miter gauge and I had the saw blade over at an angle and when you do that the fence on the miter gauge need to be adjusted to the right or it will hit the blade. My mistake and I paid for it, but it would have hit the blade on any saw not just the SawStop. Lesson learned.
Yea, its expensive, the price of your blade of choice and the brake cartridge is about 70 bucks, more if it is the brake for your dado stack. But if I have a true accident that is so much cheaper then going to the doctor even if it was for just a single stitch.
If you talk to SawStop the override isn't really there to avoid situations like using your miter gauge or any other jig that may have metal doing stuff like this still should involve proper set up. The override is there so you can cut things like pressure treated wood or any other damp wood and also you would need to override if you put a blade on for cutting ferrous metals.
Flesh sensing, yea thats a bad choice of words. The whole system is set up on completing an electrical circuit and unfortunately there are a number of items that can do that. metal, fingers, moisture and the all to famous hot dog.
The cartridge only needs to be messed with when you are putting you dado stack on, otherwise its just like changing a blade on any saw. I did have one incident with a cartridge when Kev was in my shop and I kept getting an error signal and this stops you from turning on the saw so we ended up using the override so Kev could get his work done. Following Monday I call Tech and their first guess was correct a little crud in the saw was keeping the cartridge from setting properly and there for the circuit wasn't setting properly. Just a little compressed air fixed it.
Sorry about the long post I just wanted to share my thinking.3) Knowing you're an owner Chet, you were the first toes I didn't want to step on and I know you're good around the table saw.
In the case of the miter gauges, most are aluminum and won't damage a blade. But, with the technology, it's too late once its touched and you're out blade plus cartridge. Assuming my set up (blade choice) this would be about 200 bucks. Plus, if I'm not carrying extra blades and cartridges, now I'm down on production until I can get them replaced. Financially, it's not the end of the earth for me but, time wise it could very well be.
I'm currently working a commissioned piece and had to cut some splines for splined miters last night. I got it all set up and decided to make a dry run first and sure enough, my blade would have hit the miter gauge. Easy correction before the cut but, had I of missed it and had a SS, I'd of been down on a client project until Tuesday at a minimum. I have no local vendors.
Like Chet, I try really hard to practice safe practices at the table saw. From time to time, we all make mistakes and hopefully it's only equipment damage. But, to lose the use of the saw is not acceptable for what I do. Nor is paying a single company extra money to have their spare parts on hand if I do make that mistake.
It's a catch 22.. You might be damned if you do and might be damned if you don't. But, the probability of a trip for a non injury related trip is astronomically higher than an injury related trip.
Bottom line.. Be safe on the table saw regardless of your choice of saws. If you buy a SS because you question your safety standards around the table saw, I'd suggest evaluating those standards first. If you just want the extra layer of protection and are willing to accept the down time or money involved, more power to you. Who am I to judge? It's your shop, money, and your flow.4) ==> If you buy a SS because you question your safety standards around the table saw, I'd suggest evaluating those standards first.
Good point. This is absolutely true, you shouldn't be letting yourself off the hook in safe work habits by buying a SawStop.
I will share my thinking on my purchase. I looked at them all when I was shopping and kind of what it came down to is I really liked the Sawstop it looked and felt like a top notch saw. The thing that finally tip the scale was I started thinking about the fact that I had worked in the meat industry for 32+ years and had worked around band saws with 10 HP motors, massive meat grinders and meat slicers and of course my knives. Add to that working in the wood shop for almost the same amount of time I figured that the odds were starting to stack up against me and it wouldn't hurt to had a layer of protection where I could.
I have never had so much as a stitch in the meat shop or the wood shop and would like to keep it that way.
Discussions like this are good.5) I would say #1 for me was build quality. Everything I read was it was equal to PM plus being the industrial version it may even take the lead... also the black is cool.
Won't lie, the safety part did play a little bit into it. I'm not a pro and only hobbyist so I'm not perfect. I've watched tons of safety videos and watched norm and how handles a saw. Plus chatting with my brother in law and father in law who are builders/finish Carpenters. So to me .. that 1 bad day I'll still be able to count to 10. I bought an extra break as well. I always consider my cuts and hand positions before I start to so it's not like I'm careless. I always treat it like it will take my fingers/hand off if I screw up.6) The SS is indeed a very nice saw! Very solid with little to no vibration, solid fence, and plenty of horsepower. I've had the pleasure of using them in a couple different shops.
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Submitted on the old forum by bushwacked
Do any of yall use any of the big brand lifts?
woodworkingtoolkit.com/best-router-lift-reviews/
After looking that over, Kreg made the list and seems to make most lists. Curious if anyone has any experience with any of them? Looking to add one to my tablesaw wing possibly as an upgrade for christmas ....
Right now I built a plywood box that holds my router and any adjustments come from the router itself working with the adjustment on there. Works pretty good, but I have to clear off table space to put it on there and use it. Also, no dust collection either so it makes a crazy mess.
Or maybe just go with a table, like you use Kev ...
www.amazon.com/Kreg-KRS1035-Router-Table-Stand/dp/B00WMLYRW2/ref=bdl_pop_ttl_B00WMLYRW2
or build a cabinet that the top of it would hold the lift inside it? Then it would make for some router storage as well ?
thoughts?Follow up posts
1) I have the Incra table with the LS super system fence and the Incra lift which is actually made by Jessum so I would guess it is similar to the Jessum lifts. I am real happy with everything but it was a little pricey and because of the fence system it has a fairly large footprint. With the exception of pattern routing the dust collection is excellent.
2) I've added a link below to the exact table that I have.
I'll also say that I've used Chet's table and I can attest to how good that fence system is! It's only drawback IMO is the overall size of it.
What I like about my table is the adjustment wheel on the side. I don't need an extra tool to raise and lower the lift when I need to. What I don't like about my table is the fence.
So, to sum it up... If I could have my lift and Chet's fence, combined with the PC7518 router, I think that would be an absolute perfect router table!
www.amazon.com/JESSEM-Mast-R-Lift-Included-Complete-Router/dp/B0074HJ3WI/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=jessem+router+table&qid=1562269281&s=hi&sr=1-33) Wow that incra fence is a big contraption. How long did setup take?
That table with the side wheel turn does look awesome ...4) Incra took no time at all to set up. The top comes all pre-drilled for everything, Its a matter of putting the top on the stand and then dropping four bolts through the holes and tightening them up. I don't know maybe 90 minutes. I took the most time to put the stand together. Incra really has their stuff figured out there was no tuning up to do to get it to work right. But like I said it is a touch pricy. The stand and wheel assembly, the top, the lift, dust collection chute, the fence assembly and the PC 8517 motor was around $1500 but I don't regret it at all.
5) Not to highjack this but I find that a good bit of my router table work involves cutting grooves in wood, whether hard or ply. Now kind of back to op’s question. What kind of dc will collect the dust/chips in this operation?
BW, my current and future lift is manually from the underside of the table at the router itself and am completely satisfied with it. I’ll invest money elsewhere.6) I personally don't think any of them do a good job collecting dust on the cuts you describe. The nature of the cuts directs the dust away from the dust collection even when you're collecting under the table as well as at the fence.
As for the lift, once you step into it, you won't be disappointed! There are so many reasonably priced options out there now that it's just not that expensive to get into. Hmm... Maybe I need to send you one for Christmas7) So doing more digging ... how much power do you need from the router? Mainly because the Jessem has 2 models and it looks like the big difference is size in the motors.
cheaper one can hold 2 1/4 HP motors and the more expensive one holds the 3 1/4 motors...Is it $140 difference and a needed thing to have 3 1/4 motors in there?
8 ) Completely depends on your use. I chose to go big so that I never had to be concerned with it in the future. I currently have a huge panel bit in my router right now for the lids on the urns and I'm not sure I'd want to do that with the smaller router.
With that said, I'll also say that 95% of the time, you're fine with the smaller router in your table. I'd be willing to bet that's what a majority of people are running.
I'm running the PC7518 in my table. I know that there are others running different 3.25hp routers. Keep in mind that when you buy the router for your table, you don't have to buy the whole thing.. Most will sell just the motor without the base so, that will save you a few bucks as well.9) ==> I'm running the PC7518 in my table.
I am running the same thing and like Kev mentioned you don't need it all the time but when you do you will be glad you spent the extra money and you won't want for more.
I also bought just the motor.10) I can see this being another rabbit hole but most have been an adventure that I have enjoyed and benefited from. Glad this topic came up.
11) This one isn't nearly the rabbit hole as some of the others in this hobby!
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Submitted on the old forum by bushwacked
So between Amazon 5% back and my Citi double cash back card. I have saved $2k in cash back between then 2.
So I could basically get any of the below since they are all in my price range free to sub 1k ... I'm looking to buy once and get something that solid right out of the box. Yes I know Kev you have not had the greatest experience with PM but the service people seemed good. Even though it was slow.
rikon 18" for free
RIKON Power Tools 10-342 18" Bandsaw www.amazon.com/dp/B01D35Z3KU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nRobDbEFH3D1H
PM1500 for like $700
Powermatic PM1500 1791500 BandSaw www.amazon.com/dp/B00A86U254/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-MobDbYAPARC7
Jet 15 for free
JET JWBS-15-3 3 hp Bandsaw www.amazon.com/dp/B01HZHAH08/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xSobDbQ1Z89VB
I know I could go cheaper and buy other tools as well. However there's not anything else big I need to buy and this would round out the shop. So trying to buy once cry once.
Thoughts?Follow up posts
1) I would get the rikon 10-346. It is at the top of your budget, but has more hp and larger resaw.
2) Well my budget was $1500ish. But I've waited so long that all my rewards added up to more than I saved so if I wanted to go crazy my budget would be $3500... Which I'm not gonna go that crazy haha.
So anything on the list is well within my budget.3) Just noticed this was a diff model # than I had listed haha. I read this a few times and then went and validated my links above and was so confused ... Then I saw the difference that looks pretty beastly too!!
One other thing. It needs to be available on Amazon so I can get my $700 cash back from there.4) Even though I've had bad luck with PM, that would probably still be my choice on your list. However, I will never buy another PM product that I can't put my hands on first to ensure it's right.
5) Drew, did you think of looking at any of the Laguna band saws. I have had the 1412 for about 7 years with absolutely no complaints. With your budget you could look at some of the bigger models. I know a few people that have the bigger ones and they sound like a great saw. I have head a couple of complaints about their customer service but I haven't had a single problem with my saw so I can't speak to that.
6) I was seriously considering the Laguna 18bx but they stopped selling it on Amazon for some reason. Maybe it will pop up later? But I have not seen it in several months on there.
7) I completely like my Grizz 14” and at my age, it will probably be the one the kids sell. But if I were younger and with your budget, I would select the Rikon.
8 ) Rikon because it's higher capacity to resaw or the difference in PM and rikon are almost negligible ?
9) Best thing to do bud is to put your hands on both of them. That's hard with PM since most of their dealers don't carry any stock.
I'd check the magazine circuit to see if there's a comparison or hit YouTube and start watching the reviews.10) If you have a Woodcraft that ou can get to, you might check here. They carry a lot of Rikon stuff and the on Powermatic tool I see all the time in the Woodcraft here is the their bandsaws.
11) Both but mainly due to the fact that my brother has the Rikon and swears by it. I have no experience with the PM.
12) Ya I've looked for a PM1500 at stores online from Austin to OK city and nothing. Also I don't think I've ever seen anything bigger than the 14" ish bandsaws in any store. So don't think I'll get to play with the 18" rikon. I can find both their smaller models in store but not sure how helpful that is.
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Submitted on eh old forum by Frank
Waiting for my new PM2000B table saw to arrive. Wondering if the stock blade that comes with the saw is any good?
I usually use a Freud 80 tooth crosscut blade and am wondering if the stock blade could be a good rip blade for 1" stock.Follow up posts
1) Welcome to the forums!
I was actually pleasantly surprised at the quality of the blade. I normally run a Forest WWII and will again but, not until the stock blade is in need of sharpening.
I've run 1/4" stock up to about 16/4" stock with it and it's done well.2) Welcome to the forums.
3) OK great to here that the stock blade is decent. I already purchased a sharkguard for the over table dust collection. Should be all set tomorrow when the saw arrives.
Thanks for the reply!4) Happy to help! Hope you have fewer issues than I did with the saw!
I have more replacement parts arriving Monday on mine.5) Frank, welcome to the forum and congrats on the new saw!
6) Just finished assembling and tuning up saw. Everything looks good so far.
T Glide was a bit too tight - fixed that up with some umhw tape.7) Curious exactly what you did here as mine is also a little tight? Even the repair guy they sent me noticed it and was able to adjust a little of it out.
8 ) I loosened the two teflon screws in front of the fence and then added some umhw tape where t glide fence metal touches the front of the front rail. Initially this was really tight and felt some metal grinding on the front rail. After I loosened the teflon screws and added the tape the fence glides very smoothly.
9) Sorry, I meant to say loosen the two screws that adjust the fence squareness and not the teflon screws.
10) Thanks.. That's what I thought but, wanted to be sure..
11) Kev,
Adjusting the teflon screws also might help as sometimes it helps clear the table and also shifts a bit of weight of the fence to the back of the saw.
Curious to know what replacement parts you needed for your saw? Everything felt bang on except for the fence. Even checked the belt and it was perfect.12) I know we talked about this in another thread but, here's the list.
1. Extension (black) table - Original wasn't flat. First replacement wasn't flat. Next one arrives Monday
2. Power switch - Saw just shut off for no reason. - First replacement broken. Next one arrives Monday
3. Fence plates - All 4 corners broken - Replaced but, they were on back order for 2 months
4. Door - Known issue with PM. Replacement worked fine
5. Riving knife - Not replaced yet but, mine is very finnicky to remove13) Wow.
I never tried the riving knife as I bought the sharkguard and I really like it so far. Could you please elaborate about the door as I did notice that I had to lift it a little to get to close, but I thought how often do I need to go into that door. My table only has the 36" extension so I think there was less chance of them getting wrong.
How long before the power switch stopped working for you?
Really sorry that you had a bad experience with a great saw.14) My extension table (the black one) is only 36" as well and was bowed nearly 1/4" in the middle.
My door had the same issue but, was further off and wouldn't close. The repair guy that came said this is common and the easiest fix it to simply add a washer to the top of the hinge pins to lift the door into proper alignment.
The power switch issue started about a week after I got it. PM sent me a new switch. The repair guy opened the box with the new switch to find it broken in shipping. He pulled the "old" switch off the saw and took it apart. He found some loose wiring in it that could be the problem but, I didn't get enough time at home to test that theory. So, in the mean time, PM is still shipping me another new switch.
In the end, I think I just got a lemon. Because of my shipping (delivery) difficulties and the fact that they're sending the repair guy to me, I'm hoping when I get the stuff taken care of that I'll have a good saw? However, I've now had the saw 6 months and it's still not right. Some of that is on me because I travel for work. -
submitted on the old forum by bushwacked
What brands should I be looking at? I have really only ever used Timberwolf blades for a 1/2 and 3/4 blade ... However with the new bandsaw coming in a few months once the general 10% sales kick in, I am curious what else yall have used and like.
I am thinking of getting a resaw king ... for obvious reasons of resawing.
but what about the smaller 1/4 blade?
Do I need anymore blades other than a resaw blade and then a small blade for everything outside of resawing/rippingFollow up posts
1) Nothing wrong with the Timberwolf blades, especially considering the cost!
The Resaw King's are very nice too and last quite a bit longer..
As you may or may not know, I run 2 band saws in the shop.. The 14" is set up with a Timerwolf 1/4" 10tp1 blade and I primarily cut curves on this saw. The 17" saw is set up with a 1" Resaw King 3tpi and I use it for resewing and cutting straight lines.2) I use both the TimberWolf and the Wood Slicer in the 1/2” and 1/4” and have never had one break. Both of the brands in 1/2” do a great job in resawing.
3) I have several Wood Slicers and they have given me good service and like Ken I have never had one break... hope I don't regret saying that.
4) Thanks guys. I think I'll stick with those then since they seem to be well received.
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Submitted on the old forum by Coop
I’ve had this sander for a year or so and really like it. It came with a “hard pad” and I accepted it as the norm. I am in the process of building the Maloof Low Back Chair” and Kev suggested using the soft pad as part of the sculpting and sent me his, never been used. The pad is very flexible and has been a pleasure to use. My question to those that have used both hard and soft, why would you ever use the hard pad? Now, I haven’t used the soft pad on flat surfaces so maybe, that’s where the hard pad excels?
Follow up posts
1) I really thing there is a purpose for both. The soft would be great for what you are going to do with the sculpting but I wouldn't want to use a soft if I was going to sand a top surface like a dining room table, then you want the hard one. With the soft on a table top every time you got anywhere near the edge, you would be putting an unwanted round over. I do a lot of sanding before glue up and the hard pad is the only way to go in my opinion for things like this, just to big of a chance of wrecking you flat surfaces if you us a soft pad. Of course this is just the way I feel about it.
2) That was kind of the answer I was expecting. Thanks Chet!
3) Yea, the soft pad wouldn't be good around edges that you didn't want rounded over. Great for what you're doing though.
Glad the pad worked out for you!4) Chet summed it up perfectly
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Submitted on the old forum by bushwacked
I have had the white set of Makita drills for years now and I went to HD to get some stuff and walked out with another drill. However it seems the new drill doesn't except the old battery even though they are both 18v ltx series drills with the Stars on them..any idea why? Now I have to buy newer batteries and it's like a whole other brand of tools now with multiple batteries.
Follow up posts
1) They are different lines. The white takes the LXT battery platform.
2) Yes, that is where I am confused ... They both say LXT...
3 ) That is weird, I have the black and white version so never looked that closely.
4 ) Yep. Both 18V with the star too. It was a good reason to buy this though lol...
Makita BL1850B2DC2 5.0 Ah 18V LXT Lithium-Ion Battery and Dual Port Charger Starter Pack www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDKWI32/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VllXCbGN0G96B5) New batteries came and charger ... The big batteries fit my white ...
So it seems the original white batteries don't work but the new ones fit all which is cool!
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Submitted on the old forum by woodenskye
I have a Bosch 1617 router and for the life of me I can't get the bit out. I have no problem loosening the collet, but it won't come off. I have shot the collet and bit with WD40, liquid wrench, struck the shaft with the collet wrench and nothing. I have also tried heating the nut and bit, but nothing. Any suggestions? I don't care if I have to destroy the bit, I have other round over bits.
Follow up posts
1) I had that happen with the same router as yours. I went at it the same way you are thinking, I may destroy the bit. After loosening the collet all the way, I wrapped a little bit if tee shirt around the lower part of the bit, still kind of hoping to save the bit, put the wrench on the lower part of the shaft and using some good channel locks, twisted the bit the same as if you were trying to loosen the collet itself. It ended up being a knuckle buster but it came out undamaged. I was prepared to go at it with out the tee shirt scrap if it didn't work but I got lucky and didn't have to go nuclear on it.
I read somewhere that this mainly happens if you get the bit all the way down in the shaft. Now I put the bit in, snug up the collet just enough to hold it in place, then I pull the bit up a smidge and them tighten it the rest of the way.
Let us know what happens.2) I always put the bit in all the way, then pull the bit up about 1/16" and tighten.
3) I tend to lift mine out a little further but, I don't know that's the issue. I'm probably closer to 1/4". I also run 1/2" shaft almost exclusively now tho as well. I'd bury 1/4" shaft a little deeper.
4) Take a pair of Visegrips and hold the bit real tight and turn the router on. No, just kidding, seriously, just kidding. So obviously it’s not a straight cutting bit that you can slip the collet over and remove the collet completely? If the bit has a bearing guide, remove it and try tapping down on the bit to perhaps dislodge it. I would imagine by now, you’re trying to salvage the router and the heck with the bit if that’s what it takes?
5) Chet, give yourself a pat on the back, your method worked. Thanks. The bit hit the floor when I was getting it free and chipped the cutting edges really bad, but wasn't counting on it making it through.
6) Great news Bryan! I’ve been using two of the foam space balls down into the shaft of the router so I don’t have to worry about pulling the bit back out a tad. Glad you got it resolved.
7) Great news Bryan! I’ve been using two of the foam space balls down into the shaft of the router so I don’t have to worry about pulling the bit back out a tad. Glad you got it resolved.
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Submitted on the old forum by bushwacked
Looking for a better filter than the standard 5 micron bag on my jet DC. I think it was coop or Chet .. maybe? .. that had the 3rd party filter I just have no idea where that post was.
Any ideas on the website / brand?
Thanks!Follow up posts
1) Wynn Filters made about the best..
2) Drew, my dust collector came with the canister filter but the filter was made by Wix. This is the brand that I hear mention on the forums. Mine is a 1 micron, I believe.
3) Thanks guys!! I will take a look
4) wynnenv.com/products-page/woodworking-filter-pricing/35ba222nano-cartrid
Thinking of that little fella5) Yes sir, that’s the one I have. 100% better than the bag! The bag reminds me on Linus of Peanuts, when you turn the machine on.
6) Confused on the install ... Do I need to order extra stuff that they have listed? I was assuming the materials they supply with it would be enough...
7) Is your dc the same as the one in the link you posted? I mounted mine to a HF system. It came with some cheap turnbuckle hooks. I ended up buying some ratcheting straps to hold it down.
8 ) After searching around a lot I finally found the info. I have to build the donut addition they speak of to use mine.
9) Ordered the Wynn filter last night. Apparently the new ones don't need donuts they come with some new mounting gear so that's cool. Hopefully doesn't take too long to ship
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Submitted on the old forum by Kev
So, the old adage of "buy once cry once" is valid (to me) when it comes to jointers. Buy the biggest baddest you can afford and you'll never regret it!
Not, reality is that many of us bought entry level 6" jointers to get in the game. Frankly, that's fair and it is what it is.
Now you're in a little better position and able to upgrade that original jointer. Are you really going to spend all that cash for 2 extra inches and buy an 8" jointer?
For me, the answer is easy. Hell no! I've done a lot of cool projects with a 6" jointer although, I do have a drum sander. I can seriously count on one hand in the last year where I've said "gee, I sure wish I had an 8" jointer". So, for me, an upgrade will be just that, an upgrade! I have no interest in an 8" jointer! I'll go big or stay with what I have.
Additionally, there's the conversations around the helical head or the straight knives. Mine has the straight knives and I'll admit that I just don't understand the craze around the helical head. Yes, I understand that it's helpful for those doing a bunch of work with highly figured stock but, lets face it, the average hobbyist is using stock lumber from their local hardwood dealer and getting no real benefit from a helical head.
So, my 2 cents worth, if you're in a similar boat to me, don't waste your money on 2 extra inches and a head that you get no real benefit from! Save your money!
Ok, rant over on jointers.. Go ahead and beat me up and prove me wrong now!Follow up posts
1) I'll bite.
8 inches is too small...
A friend bought an 8" PM jointer and is over my house at least once a month jointing wide boards. Also, my planer is wider and smoother too...
He makes alot of tabletops so the width is required. Simply takes too much time or mess with other workarounds.
Same as anything really. It depends. I buy big wide boards, so I have a big ass jointer2) Kind of my point in general Mel. If you're going to upgrade from a 6" jointer, why would someone spend the money and only go to an 8" jointer? Is 2" worth the money? I don't think it is.
Now, if you don't have a jointer then, the 8" is a great place to start. With that said, I've never regretted my 6" jointer especially since it has the long beds.3) I was in your camp Kev but the end of last year when I was shopping to replace my 20 year old iddy biddy Grizzly jointer PM was having a 15% off sale which made it just a touch more then the 6 inch. So I got the 8 inch. No helical head and that is fine. On the dinning table and the top for the sideboard I was pretty happy to have the 8 inch. And sometimes on the first pass of a piece that is a little wonky it helps to be able to run the piece at a slight angle on the first pass, yea you can do that on a 6 inch but...
4) I bought a 6" because with a small shop that is all I could dedicate when I got started. If I was to build a new shop where I had room, I would probably go 16" combo machine. 12" combo is great for jointing, but really as a planer offers little upgrade from lunchbox. As for knives or heads, I don't do a lot of figured wood, and not being a pro would probably stick to knives, unless cost was marginal.
5) When I bought my jointer my thought was I will think about helical when it comes time to change the blades, Soooo I will probably never get the helical. Last jointer I had for 20 years and never replaced the blade.
6) When I bought my jointer my thought was I will think about helical when it comes time to change the blades, Soooo I will probably never get the helical. Last jointer I had for 20 years and never replaced the blade.
7) I started with 6 inch and mostly got a eight because I wanted a longer bed. I wouldn't think build doors using 8 inch wide boards on a job.
8 I brought one of these last year has a 200mm width capacity which I'm guessing is that 8inch thing you guys are bleating about. Now I brought a smaller unit back in 2006, it was tiny, bed to bed it was smaller than the length of the smallest bed on the above unit. The thing I hated most about it was the chip extraction. The exhaust port was at the base of a wedge shaped chute and every time I used it it would clog up right back to the blade and jam it up. Didn't matter how much suck the vac unit had it always clogged up, I eventually fixed the machine with a 5.5kg sledge.
The new machine as pictured above, is massive in comparison, weighs many times what the smaller heap of crap did and is in my opinion a stellar bit of kit. When i put this together i had to use my gantry crane to lift the table setup.
I can drop a 6ft length of 2in x 6in botryoides on it and the thing doesn't move. This MOFO weights a ton and its solid. It came with straight blades (which i nicked with a bit of hidden nail) so i just pushed the fence across to hide it. The fence stands tall and which lets me run really tall bit of WOOD along it. There is an option for a helical head which I have been humming and haring about. It would make short work of the Botryoides I usually put through it and they would last longer before I'd need to rotate the blades. 100% of the wood I have so far been using on it is not commercially brought wood. So I guess in that regards I'm not your average user. I use it to get a flat edge and a 90degree edge to the main wood so that when I run it through my sliding panel saw I get parallel cuts.
AND
The best thing is the chip chute is at the end and bottom of a rectangular drop. I have never had a single issue with extraction on this baby.
PS. The longer beds are a much needed as well.
BIG IS BEAUTIFUL
9) Nice!
Long beds are super important!
Maybe Mel will post a picture of his beast?10) I think the biggest thing that makes an 8 inch jointer the final option for most hobbyist is shop space and the other tools that you have. These days it seems like a lot of people are going in the direction of doing away with the table saw and just using a band saw. I think Mel has even talked about this recently. A nice band saw and a Felder beast like Mel's and you could almost set up shop in a 12 X 12 shed and be happy. I have been using a table saw for a long time so even though I have been using the bandsaw more the table saw and for that matter everything else stays. So the 8 inch is about as big as I have space for. Even if I had Kev's space I think I would still have dedicated jointer and planer, again it is just the rut I am stuck in.
11) All my gear that sits on the floor sits on mobile bases. I can shift anything out of the way if I need the space. If i'm not using something then it sits in the corner out of the way with my Gun Safe.
I use my jointer more than I use the bandsaw. Used my bandsaw for the first time this last weekend in like maybe a year. Sometimes I wonder why I even have it. I don't have it in the work shop anymore because of this and have it sitting in the Garage attached to the house beside the wood lathe.
12) You're going to have to come for another visit but.. We need to get your woodworking priorities straightened out...
13) I am working on a project that involves 10” boards and I have a 6” jointer. Kev reminded me of a sled that can be used on my DW735 planer and I’m there. Am I missing something?
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Submitted on the old website by tmize
So I’m really wanting to build another workbench this year. Background for those that don’t know I use a lot of hand tools. So it needs to be solid and heavy. I had just about made of my mind an build bench crafted classic roubo know I catch myself looking at the Nicholson style now an can see the benefits of the wide apron. I know I want a leg vise for sure an thick top for pounding an holdfast an 8-9’ long. I don’t wanna do some hybrid I believe these designs have stood the test of time an i not one to reinvent the wheel.
Follow up posts
1) Maybe @chet will post a picture of his bench that we retrofitted a leg vise on??
In the meantime, here's the video of us doing it..
2) I’ve seen his in a few of his shop pic posts lately an that’s kinda what got me thinking about it. It’s a nice bench
3) He's a south paw but, the vise could go on either side..
It is a nice bench! With the leg vise and a tail vise, you pretty much get both benches. If there's a downside, you can't use that entire apron because of the leg vise. You could drop the apron on both sides for those rare occasions when you needed the entire apron though.4) Not being to use the whole apron wouldn’t be problem I don’t think. I like it for being able to standing a longer piece up to work on the end grain. I won’t be doing a tail vice on this bench. I have one now on me bench an rarely use it. I use a shop made planing stop or sticking board for nearly everything now. The old bench isn’t going anywhere so if I do happen to need it.
5) Honestly for a second bench, I think the 1 Kev built with his son would work well. I'm sure you could easily modify to get all your work holding needs.
6) That bench is made from 8/4 poplar because at the time I wasn't sure that was the design I wanted, but I needed to start somewhere and didn't want to spend a lot on an experiment. The aprons on both sides and the top are doubled up so they are 3 1/2 thick and my Gramercy hold fasts work real well. I do have a Veritas inset vise on the opposite end from the leg.
I would guess that it is some were around 275+ pounds but every time I have to move it it gets heavier. ?7) Here's that build video.. Total build cost was around 1400 but, could dig up the actual number if you're interested..
It's a really good bench and all set up for the leg vise which would, of course, be an additional cost..
8 So, this showed up in my feed this morning. It's not my style and certainly wouldn't work in my shop but, maybe you can find some use out of the video..
9) Interesting build but not for me
10) So when figuring waste amount for a glue up top is 10-15% still seem about right? I know when I did my current bench seem like I remember sweating a lil bit getting toward the end that I bought enough. But it was also some narley looking white oak so I cut around some bad spots. I have thought about doing a popular base an most likely maple for the top an vice chop
11) Ultimately, that depends on the lumber selection if that's enough..
Absolutely nothing wrong with using poplar in the base! The kids (blue) bench, that base is all from poplar and I have zero complaints about it!12) And as mentioned above mine is all poplar. Yea it has some dents in it but I guess that is because it gets used, sometimes for things it wasn't originally designed for.
13) My main work bench. I laminated a bunch of the cheapest pine kiln dried 2 x 4's that money could buy together. Made a frame up from rough sawn fence wood [was even cheaper than the bench top wood].
Once the bench top dried I router ed the top side and bottom side flat, though probably not parallel with each other. Welded up some brackets and bolted it down to the frame. Presto a nice solid work bench.
BEFORE FINISHEDI now have an old wood workers vice on the front side and a basic vice on the short side. I also routered some slots along the back about 100mm in and a slot at each end running at 90degrees which I added some T track to. Then drilled some holes big enough to drop some bench dogs into.
Looks like thisNow its covered in paint, blobs of glue, saw cuts, dents, drill holes, hammer holes, weld burns, skill saw fark up cuts etc. . .It ain't not fancy but it does the job. When It gets too rough a give it a bit of love with the belt sander and my big hand plane and start again.Yeeee haaaaa!!!!14) Saw this one in the WTO FB feed this morning..
Here is a Nicholson-style workbench I recently finished up. Soft maple throughout with Benchcrafted hardware. The design is based heavily upon Ron Brese's design (from Brese Plane). Some of you may be familiar with the high-end hand planes he builds. His bench build with a little more detail is documented here on his blog: breseplane.blogspot.com/2017/02/new-bench-is-finished-jameel-comes-to.html
While looking for bench designs online some time ago, I came across this design and it actually led me down a path to reconnect me with Ron. He was my soccer coach growing up and I went to school and played on the same team as his sons. I knew he did furniture and finishing work around that time but he moved into custom plane work after I graduated from high school. It has been fun to reconnect, get to see his bench and other projects in person, and talk shop when I go home for Christmas each year.
He eventually convinced me to build this bench versus a Roubo and I'm pretty happy with it. Total time invested is a little less than 80 hours, so it was quicker than most Roubo builds. It is still plenty heavy and I suspect should remain dimensionally stable and flat as well given the stiffness provided by the aprons. And the overall design is self squaring as long as the leg structure is square. Plus it comes apart easily, which is a benefit for my basement shop.
It certainly has been nice to have such convenient work holding as it is already seeing some use.
Image may contain: people sitting, table and indoor
15) I like that. Unfortunately the bench build may get pushed back again due to life again16) Shame you weren't closer! You could be my one week project17 )Yea it’s a shame it would be a fun time -
Submitted on the old forum by Chet
The last couple of weeks had me doing some projects for the shop. I rebuilt my under saw storage. Kev helped me build the existing one about 4 years ago. It was built to fit in a certain area by the table saw but do to getting some new and larger tools I ended up moving it and the second location was okay but lest then ideal because of the size. One down side to the latest location was it made it hard to operate the hand wheel to adjust the blade tilt on the table saw. I spent some time trying to come up with a design that would make it a little narrower and still store the things I have in the cabinet.
Thanks to Shawn posting a picture of his blade storage I was able to accomplish what I wanted and I have one drawer in the new cabinet that has very little in it. So I am real happy with the out come. But as you will see I need to get to the hardware store to get one more matching knob.
Thanks for the idea Shawn!!! It really helped out.
The other thing I wanted to do was rebuild my clamp rack. I like the one I had but because of an increase in the number of clamps it was no longer enough. In the past few years because of some larger projects I had to get some longer parallel clamps and then just at the end of the year I had a project that involves some bent lamination I had to up the F style clamp inventory form 4 to 18.
The other thing I needed to improve on the rack was I needed things to slant back toward the wall a little. My shop wall on that side leans from the floor up to the ceiling in about a degree and a half. So if you mount something like a shelf at 90 degrees to the wall, the shelf would be sloping down back to front and the clamp rack does the same thing so I have to constantly push them back.
The other challenge is I only have about 60 linear inches to work with. I would have liked t stay with the style of rack that I had but the room just isn't there for that and still have all the clamps in one location. So I went with a new design that Keeps everything in one area.
The old rack.
And the new rack.
Follow up posts
1) Nice work on both projects!
2) Smart use of the space, nice job Chet!
3) The cabinet and rack both look really nice. I love the how the tabs are done for which saw blade is which. Very nice!
4) Love the under saw cabinet! Like how the blade storage area keeps the blades in their own place with nothing touching the teeth. Clamp rack looks handy and packs a lot of clamps in a tight space. Nice job sir.
5) Very nicely done!
6) Nice addition you did. Just a better way of adapting to fit your space
7) I have to give all the credit to Shawn on this one, it was his idea that I stole.
8 Are the tabs for the blades lasered? Looks great!
9) No, my engraver does traditional engraving where it actually "scratches" into the metal. It uses diamond tip cutters and operates just like a CNC machine.
10) Very well done Chet. Nice set of clamps. And your shop looks as clean as Kev’s!
11) Chet, will you take a pic when you get a chance of your ds stand/setup? I’m assuming those are extra belts for your sander in the cabinet below it?
12) Ah very cool! Great work!
13) Ken, my drum sander cabinet is almost identical to Kev's but with out the walnut. What you are seeing in the rack is my sanding discs for my Festool sander.
14) I really think I need to do a video on this build and create some plans! I really wish there was someone close enough to me to come pick it up when it's finished as I just don't need 2 of them..
15) If you built another, is there a way for you to use for the mortiser or another current or future tool?
16) Very interesting question!
I currently have a drawer dedicated to a tenoning jig that I just never use. I have another drawer dedicated to 1/4" shanked router bits that I rarely use and don't belong in this location in the current shop. Ok, time to shorten the story... I only have one drawer dedicated to things that actually go with this sander.. It was designed for the original shop.
Yes, the storage space could easily be changed to fit the needs of individual shops. I don't think the HCM would fit in it, especially with a lift unless I made the stand much taller and I really like the height of the cabinet.
The current cabinet also doesn't incorporate wheels. I could see this being very important in many shops!
I have no issues building another and giving away the current one or, if I were building to someone else's shop, giving that one away. It would be cool to find a design that really creates a well rounded solution.16) I like the idea to go after a well rounded solution. You should have plenty of time to think it through with no internet
17) I have a little bit of internet..
The issue is that the stand has more storage than a drum sander needs. So, what else lives in this cabinet? That will most likely be a different answer for each shop18) For my setup I was thinking about pitching the steel legs, building a cabinet with paper roll storage and since it’s by my shaper, packing it full of dedicated storage for shaper cutters and wrenches. It would still have to be portable for my setup.
19) That's exactly what I'm talking about.. For you, a place to store shaper parts but, for me when I built mine, it was mostly about sanding supplies..
In the end, the space is the same, it's how you configure the storage within that space.
I want to measure (when I get home) to see if there's enough space to mount a lift like I did in my OF table.. The end where I have drawers might be a cool place to mount something like a spindle sander..20) That is a great idea! Hopefully it will work!
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Submitted on the old forum by tmize
So I’ve been trying the past two weeks to be getting more organized. So I’ve started on the back wall behind me bench to start. I built a saw till and drill and impact slots with several drawers for small stuff. So far I like it all being right behind me. I also moved my miter saw over to left I don’t use it much except for construction project which come an go thru the year. I relocated my sharpening stuff to the lower part where it sat. I still have another bank of drawers that will go next to the other below the countertop. I’m trying localize all my dust makers to three different spot in the shop so when I start dust collection piping in the next month or so the drops will be easier
Follow up posts
1) Organization is king!
2) And it just makes being in the shop more enjoyable.
3) That is what I’m trying to do is make it my space I’ve been slowly moving all not woodworking stuff out of here to the garage upstairs an this will all mine to sit and relax. We have lived here 4 years now an we are still remodeling as we go but most of the big stuff is done now except the kitchen but that’s going to be a long time. I look at all these super nice over the top shops online and think that is what I want then when it comes time to build something for the shop I just build it fast an get to using it.
I’m slowly figuring out how I work now an how to arrange the space now (slow learner). I’ve bet I’ve moved my ts 10 time til before the spot it’s in now an I think it right now.4) As one with one of those "over the top" shops, I also completely understand where you're at. I built based on "need" early on as well. Those builds helped me learn what I really wanted when the time came to finally do my shop the way I wanted.. Point being that you sound very much like you know what you want now. The rest is just using the skill sets you've accumulated to build the shop furniture that you want and I look forward to watching your journey!
5) Thanks yea I’m the young buck here so I’m trying to soak up all the info I can handle. An the way I’m looking at it now is build it now with whatever I have laying around an once I figure out if it will stay like that an I like it I’ll rebuild to look nice later kinda like a mock up.
6) Exactly what I did..
Funny part about that... I'm on my third iteration of the OF/Work table and have a butt load of money dumped into it with vises and lumber.. And, in the final shop, I rarely use it..
Word to the wise.. Build to the future need, not the current shop! That changes a little if you know you're in your final shop.
For the record, I've had the pleasure to work in a few different shops. Some were my own and some were some wonderful woodworkers that I met on forums like these and got to visit. I have to admit that @chet has one of the nicest shops I've worked in! It's on the smaller side but, he has done an amazing job with the space!7) That is me now an my workbench I built it when had all the normal yard and diy stuff in the shop an the old tool arrangement. I built it 6’ long 24” wide with a cabinet base for storage. I hate it now way to short for me can’t use holdfast but couple places. Unlike most people opinions the workbench is the heart of my shop not the table saw. Now that I’ve realized that I’ve been able to move the flow around til it works for me. So I’ve got a bench build sometime this year an Im bumping the size bench to 28” wide with a tool well and 8-9’ long with a couple small drawers.
8 Very cool! Although I always offer my ideas and opinions, I also always believe that people should build to their shop and flow. What works for me isn't necessarily right for everyone else. Good on you!
There's certainly some cool bench ideas out there.. Obviously, I have a couple iterations on the Roubo, Chet has a killer bench that melds a few different styles, Marc has done the Roubo, and that barely scratches the surface.9) Kev/Chet, wasn’t there a tour of Chet’s shop somewhere on WTO? Would be cool to put it on here as well.
10) I know I video'd a shop tour but, not sure if I published it.. I'll have a look tomorrow as I just don't remember.
If I didn't, it would be awesome for @chet to do one as I think he has just about the best small shop I've had the pleasure to work in..
If Hotel internet was better I could look quickly but, my internet is pretty poor ATM..11) Just for full discloser, my shop is what used to be the garage, cars don't get to come in anymore and haven't been since the late 80's. Because it was the garage I share space with the washer and dryer along with a freezer and pantry area. My actual area is 16' X 18'. I don't have a video but here are some pictures.
The first three pictures go clock wise and give you an overview of the shop. The last three show some of the storage under the router, planer and table saw. The storage under the table saw is currently being rebuilt. After working with it for a few years I have come up with some changes along with wanting to make it narrower to make it a little easier to turn the crank for the blade tilt on the table saw. I do have a drill press and it sets just to the left of the red tool box in the third picture
I think about building some storage under the hand tool bench but if you read my post in General Discussion about "some times you just got to laugh", you will know why I probably won't put storage there.
If you have any questions, just ask.
12) Thanks Chet!
I was always amazed how you had such a great layout and still had bicycles and a washer and dryer in a 2 car garage!13) Thanks Chet that gives me some inspiration to try a few more things out
14) I know, right! Chet, what is the DeWalt tool in the third pic? I know I’ll be embarrassed for asking.
How much outfeed space do you have for your ts?
Where is your dc system located?
Last but not least, darn nice setup!15) I'll admit that wasn't there when I was but, I know what it is...
16) A radio?
17) Ken, The Dewalt tool in the third picture isn't a tool, it is one of those old fashion things called a Ray-Dee-Oh. Pretty much the reason I keep it is I love to listen to baseball on the radio.
My outfield table is 3Ft X 4Ft
The DC is just to the right of my table saw, you can just see a couple flex hoses running into the main trunk.
Thanks Ken.18) Yea, it wasn't there in that spot, but it was in the shop.
19) Awesome looking shop Chet! What is the mat that you have on the floor?
20) Steal away that’s what forums are for to bounce ideas off each other an borrow ways things work for others. Sometimes it will be the simplest things that you never would have thought of that makes a huge change in your shop.
21) It is from Rubber Flooring inc. I used the one in the link below. They are actually tiles but they are laser cut so when they go together it is almost impossible to see the connection. I could stand on that stuff all day it has a nice supportive feel to it, its not soft and squishy like the cheap stuff. And it is way better then the cold concrete on chilly days. With every penny.
The other thing that is nice about this company is you can get corner and edge tiles so you don't have the inter locking edges on the outside like you have with the other stuff. Or you can buy it in four foot wide rows cut to length. It is cheaper that way but you pay more on shipping because it becomes a bulk item as far as handling.
www.rubberflooringinc.com/interlocking-tile/8mm-strong-rubber-tile.html22) Mine is all one pieces strips I got from a weight room in a gym heavy as all get out but nice to stand on and safe on tool edge when they leap from your hand
23) I need one that’s ergonomically supportive to bare feet and I believe Chet’s would fit that need.
Chet, back to your dc collection, would that be in the second pic and what do you use?24) Yep it would be good on your feet Ken. When I was rehabbing my broken ankle my physical therapist had the same stuff on his floors, except the rolls not the tiles and he said that it was great for people with back problems or people that tend to do standing tasks bare footed.
My DC is made by Penn State Industries, the same company that makes a bunch of the parts, equipment and supplies for pen turners. They seem to have gotten out of the DC business though. I got this one super cheap because it had some dents in it and I don't care about the dents nearly has much as saving money. It is 120v with a 1 3/4 hp motor. I have about 40 linear feet of 4 inch PVC running off it through out the shop with blast gates at each tool and 4 inch flex running from the blast gate to the tool. No more flex then absolutely needed. I have it connected to my Jointer, Planer, Table Saw, Band Saw and Router. The only time I have ever had a static problem off of the PVC is when I run the planer for long sessions and I think that this is mostly because of the fan in the Dewalt 735 increasing the velocity of the chips. And even at that the discharge that you get is less then you get from new carpet on the floor. All in all I am satisfied with the set up after, after a hard day in the shop I probably only sweep up enough off the floor to fill a coffee can... unless there was a fair amount of hand tool work. -
Submitted on the old forum by Coop
This probably goes without saying, as simple as it is. I asked Kev if he did anything out of the ordinary to his clamps when gluing up panels with epoxy and he told me just Johnson’s paste wax as always. Well, I wax my tables but never thought about waxing the clamp bars. It actually makes them slide easier too. I’ll find out about the epoxy tomorrow.
Follow up posts
1) Ya mine are pretty messy I'll need to do some major cleaning before I can wax them ...
Although... How often do y'all feel you need to wax? Everytime you have to wipe glue off or what?2) I wax mine once or twice a year. Not globs, but I do put a decently thick coat. It helps with removing glue and keeping them sliding nice. I use Jet clamps by the way. No experience with Bessey parallel.
3) I wax mine two or three times a year. I don't wipe the glue off the clamps, It just pops off after you take things out of the clamps. So when you project glue is dry so is the glue on the clamps.
4) Great tip!
5) Follow up. The epoxy squeeze out just popped right off the bars.
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Submitted on the old forum by tmize
I do a lot of hand planing so do y’all think a 4” floor sweep would be okay for this? I would need have to be more careful than now so to not suck up screws or something. Also any dust collection tips would be greatly appreciated as most the dc talk goes over my head. Just simple tips as I’ve never had one before. I’m planning on doing 4” pvc trunk line with drops at router table boush benchtop, table saw,bandsaw compound miter saw,bench top drill press, and soon a hcm. That should be all for a very long time if not forever. I take me planer outside and blow chips in the yard.
Follow up posts
1) It ultimately starts with the dust collector itself.
A couple rules of thumb that have served me well.
1. Run the largest main trunk as the dust collector allows.
2. Don't reduce to 4" (or the port size of the machine) until close to the machine
3. Reduce or eliminate any turns when possible
4. No 90s or Ts. Use sweeping 45s when you have to turn.
Depending on the DC, you should be able to run your planer as well
Floor sweep - Again, really depends on the DC. I wouldn't want to do this without a cyclone where the large chips are separated. If that's in place and you have enough suction - either decent HP on the machine or, close to the machine - you should be good. I've noticed that some of these come with a screen in them.. Yea, cut that out as your chips will clog that up in a hurry!
Just my 2 worth and I hope it helps!2) Dont copy my system if you want good advice! I went with 90s and ts everywhere, but hey I was on a budget.
As far as picking screws up, they typically weigh to much vs the surface area to be sucked up. Even in very large dc systems that is true. With a floor sweep coming off a 4" pipe i would think that you would never be able to get a screw to go up it, just more surface area with the sweep area that the 4" wouldn't have enough suck. Not that a 4" pipe wouldn't work well for a sweep sucking up chips and dust.
In my system even chunks that break off while milling get halfway up the pipe and rattle around. Gets annoying and I'll pop the hose off quick and let them fall to the ground with the system off.3) I believe some people put magnets at their floor sweeps to catch the screws. Might want to glue some strong magnets to the floor sweep.
4) I don't now, nor ever have, had a floor sweep. That is an awesome idea and belongs in our reference material section! woodenskye
5) Thanks everyone for the good info. I’m guess hand plane shaving would clog it without running a separator which I’m not planning on. Magnet is a good idea tho. Nearly all the the dust made at my bench is from a handsaw so that lil bit wouldn’t be worth the effort.
6 Comment Added in the DC section.
FORMAT 4 - SLIDY SAW
in Power Tools
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Submitted on the old forum by Puka