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Woodenskye (Bryan)
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Posts posted by Woodenskye (Bryan)
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Pre drilling is a must! You could try to find higher quality screws, but if you pre drill may not be necessary.
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Looking at those pictures I still wonder why I ever left Colorado.
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3 hours ago, Kev said:
You do know that you can frost your own glass out of a spray can right? You can also purchase glass etcher that's more of a brush on. Cool think about both is that if you want an artistic design in the glass, a simple stick down pattern on the glass before you etch it will leave those areas clear giving you the design you want.
Also you could go to a glass shop if you are comfortable with doing yourself.
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3 minutes ago, Bushwacked said:
True, just trying to add a little something else to it ... maybe the glass feature will do that all on its own?
Sometimes adding that little something can have a negative effect. You could always do something with the glass, like frosting a line along the edge or similar.
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Just my opinion, I think doing the table without the maple would look good on its own.
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Coop, you don’t need saw horses, Marc puts foam on his concrete floor, I know others who put 2x4 sleepers and others like Kev uses his bench. I use saw horses cause most of my cutting full sized sheets are in my driveway, cause shop is small, and I’m to damn fat to be crawling on the concrete driveway. Smaller pieces I can use my bench or MFT.
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Just to add, if you buy the Festool you get a 55” track, if you want and have room for the longer rail, the festool will ride on the Makita rail. Also the rail connectors Chet mentioned, the Makita version are actually better than the festool.
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Coop, the tracks have a strips that keep the track from moving. With that said, I still clamp my tracks. I also don’t cut on the floor or a solid surface. I use the 2 inch pink foam, it comes in 2’x8’ sheets and I lay them on saw horses. As for brands, the Makita gets good reviews. If I was to buy new, I would go cordless. I would still probably go with the festool.
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I’m indifferent about these types of things, but to add a wee bit of humor. We don’t need no stinking badges!
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Drew, good luck with the new venture! As for species, you could also use white oak. If I’m not mistaken isn’t mesquite fairly weather resistant? Only mention since your in Texas.
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Coop, based on where it would be placed I would leave them off.
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I’m confused (not hard I know), so in the bottom section with the fake stiles are they going to remain different sizes? If the are, then my vote is leave them out, cause that looks like an after thought. What may be a better fix would be frame the inside bottom panel with a decorative mounding. Looks like it was a design element that way.
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Thanks, didn’t think about leg attachment. Guess I could have answered my own question when part 2 comes out.😳
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Kev, good video as usual, have a question. On the top rails, did you do a stopped groove on the curved piece? In the video it looked like a through groove. Was the loose tenon used to basically seal up the groove (if that makes sense)?
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It’s funny you mention the old school method as that is what we use for a family calendar. It hangs on the basement door for all to see. I dislike google calendar. I wish there was away to link multiples in apple, but haven’t found a way to get everything in 1 place, without manually entering, but then again I’m not super tech savvy on apple.
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Are you completely satisfied with the new design?
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So the big question will be if on darker woods looks the same as ARS, would you make the switch if cost was equal?
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Coop, I can see what your saying about hearing it big down, but if your using hearing protection, you may not hear the saw bog down. The only time I had a kickback, and it was minor, was not because of the saw struggling it was tension in the wood and no riving knife. Tension, poor set up/technique and doing stupid s**t are the leading causes in my opinion.
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Ok now I’m following you.
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I would vote for Rubio.
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Kind of goes with mind on task, but making dangerous/unsafe cuts, hand/body position
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5 hours ago, Kev said:
What I'm going to try first is a Y where the blade shroud discharges into to DC.. This way I still get the shroud but, also a little in the box. Should be an inexpensive experiment.
I’m not following you on this. Is the port inside your cabinet? How do you plan on getting the second hose in the cabinet?
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I wonder if you drilled a 2 1/2” or even another 4” port at bottom of the cabinet if that would make a difference. Maybe you would be reducing air flow to much having a y fitting for both the original port and new. Cutting through the cabinet just to see if it works isn’t super appealing.
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The problem is that the DC doesn’t have enough suction to pull all the dust from the “large” area inside the cabinet. As Chet mentioned that is why a lot of newer saws have a shroud around the blade going to the dust port. Another problem is that most cabinet saws aren’t air tight, so that also contributes to the problem. If there was a way to create a shroud you could see improvement. With a ZCI and shroud collection should be good.
My saw is a contractor saw with a 2 1/2” port, using a shop vac does a decent job, purely because they put a shroud around blade and port. However I still get dust build up, because of the openings in the saw. I could tape off the bigger openings if I never wanted to tilt the blade again.
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Since it was a wedding gift, maybe they have never used it as a cutting board so nothing to report. I would think that repeated use and washing would make the paint chip away. Chet’s idea is a good 1.