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Woodenskye (Bryan)
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Posts posted by Woodenskye (Bryan)
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I would assume people caught on to Ted’s scam and his cousin Buck took over.
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1 hour ago, Bushwacked said:
what rigid foam are you talking about? It will be enclosed with 3/4 ply ... its gonna be a heavy B!
haha all good, I like when you get on a roll and I get some paragraphs out of you ... always learn something.
I was thinking about doing a double layer with a gap in the middle with those tiles as well to possibly make it even better. Hopefully will have a good amount of it finished up tomorrow to hopefully get a test on it
You were talking about ceiling tiles, rigid foam boards (insulation) will be better. I would enclose with 1/4” ply and ridged foam board.
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Ridged foam will be stronger than ceiling tiles. Your never going to reduce sound to nothing. Sound will reverberate off flat surfaces, which is why music studios and other sound proof rooms have the spike foam on the walls. In your box you may want to enclose it all with 1/4” ply and then use spray foam.
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I would probably leave as it is and get in finished up.
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With the shape of the item 3 or 4 passes for the bottom would be wise.
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I wouldn’t worry to much about losing the shape. I doubt people will even know it isn’t a perfect circle. So I would first scrap the squeeze out. If you have a soft pad on a ROS you should be able to follow the curvature. It is gentle enough and keeping it moving should get the job done. Kev’s Idea of making a circle jig is good and helps with the bottom.
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5 minutes ago, Bushwacked said:
I have not actually started moving things and setting it all up yet. I just got in all the pieces I needed this week, and am finishing up a project this week. Was going to probably start this over the weekend or early next week
Again, if it was me, I would try simulating before I cut any holes.
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Do you have it set up already in your shop? Can you move to your driveway to run a quick test? Trying to avoid a mess. Here is the test I would run, I would plane a board and have pipe from tool to DC and then have a pipe going vertical (roughly same length as total run needed) to see if going up through the ceiling is even possible before cutting holes in the ceiling and/or soffit. In order to get up to attic, your going to need a 90* at the DC. If this doesn’t work, drilling through brick may be only option.
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Let me see if I’m following this. You don’t want to drill through the brick which isn’t hard, but I get it. So you are thinking of ducting up through the ceiling and out the soffit. I would run 6” pipe as far as you can and at the soffit, I would put a reduced wye fitting and cap 1 end. I believe you want to eliminate 90* elbows, just like when going to a machine. You may need to add a short length of straight pipe. You may also need a cap to keep birds out, which may cause a back up.
Looking at the picture again, is the space next to the garage door brick or something else? Cause that may be a better option than going up. Like coop mentioned you could direct a dryer vent to the side.
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4 hours ago, Bushwacked said:
Ok I went looking. I’m not seeing the cabinet you’re referring to??
I was referring to the cabinet Kev has for his sleds and the other he has for other storage around TS.
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Yes or into the cast iron. Building a cabinet like Kev has is best option if the wall isn’t close by.
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Make a quick bracket and hang it on the wall is the easiest way. You probably could buy bike hooks and drill into the under side of saw.
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Having in the room is a great idea and should be a fairly simple layout for the pipe. My only thought is could you vent the DC outside from the 9x6 room? I say this cause removing a drum and taking out of room could stink. I would go minimum 3 HP but probably 5 HP.
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Welcome! That’s a fantastic piece you posted!
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Welcome!
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Welcome. Woodworking may be cheap hobby compared to a sailboat!
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Happy New Year! Safe travels.
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2 hours ago, Coop said:
I have done business with a location that uses a key to get in. There is a combo lock that houses a key to the door. Punch in the combination and it opens to reveal the key.
Yes,that is a traditional lock box. Realtors use them all the time, problem is for a quality 1, they are $30, plus you have to rely on the person putting back. I think I may have figured out what I’m going to do, I may buy a safe, or I found a large cash box both have a digital lock (keypad) and metal construction.
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Rocker has a digital lock for cabinets, but for $130 I could buy a metal cabinet. I think this will require a lot more thought. Thanks for the suggestions.
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1 hour ago, Kev said:
This is interesting!
I'll just toss some suggestions out here, take what you need/want...
Any reason to not build it like a small pole building? Ply sides covered in thin metal in a color of your choice. You can order this cut to length within 1/2". Cutting it is fairly simple with a circular saw, just flip the blade backwards. Note: It's loud, wear hearing protection!
Would need more details around the "clock".. Inside behind some Plexiglas?
Hardware is tricky as well.. I wouldn't put expensive hinges on it and would just maintain them as required. You didn't mention anything around latches and locking but, that's probably not my best subject either...lol
Skinning the cabinet/box in metal is a good idea, i do have a couple pieces of plastic roof panels maybe that could work. I was thinking originally that a basic piano hinge would work.
Not sure what you mean by clock? I mentioned a digital lock like you can put on a front door, but they have for cabinets, just not sure if they are easy to install.
35 minutes ago, Coop said:What is a drop box?
Coop, a drop box is where a person can leave something at a business and is secure until the business can pick up the item to work on. Let’s say you were going to drop off your car for service late at night, the shop isn’t open, so you drop your keys in the box and then the shop opens next morning to get your keys and begin the work.
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I am looking at making a drop box that will reside outside and be subject to the elements. I looked at metal cabinets, repurposing a mailbox and just nothing has the look or function I want.
I am not going to spend the money on marine grade plywood, so what is the best wood that will hold up to the weather and the sun? How would you finish (paint or stain)? Has anybody ever added a digital lock, cause it needs to be secured? What type of hardware (hinges and pulls)? I am sure gate hardware would work, but the dimensions in my head are 16” (t) X 12-14” (w) and 6” (d).
Please through out any ideas.
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Are you going to give to the expecting couple?
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Did you just epoxy the antlers or did you add a screw through the base?
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Merry Christmas
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A Little Addition to the Collection
in The Lumber
Posted
My guess would be Fir or Spruce.