Jump to content
Title of the document

Every purchase made through our Amazon Affiliate Page helps support this site

Chet

Moderator
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2,280

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    92

 Content Type 

Posts posted by Chet

    Nightstands

    in Member Project Journals

    Posted

    35 minutes ago, Kev said:

    Finishing - Although I'll go over my finishing process, it's nearly impossible to cover every finish that people may want to use.  I'm really open to suggestions on this video to cover enough to be useful to someone new to the craft.

    I think the modern day finishing process can be pretty simple.  I think people make there finishing process more difficult then it has to be because they've heard others go through these ornate processes.  Modern finish products have made life easier if you let them.  If you are doing a period piece then you might want to stick to a finish process that matches that time.  If your making a nice piece for your personal use then just keep it simple.  Marc has evolved over the years but every finish process he goes to is simple and easy to do.  Phillip Morley almost always uses Conversion Varnish because it looks good, is durable and easy to use.

    I think, because like you said, there is a lot out there that the best you can do is start by saying, there is a lot out there on finishing but what I am going to show is a simple, durable finish, that looks nice on most any project.  When you keep in mind new people starting out on the finish process simple is king.

    One thing that I might toss out there is in your finish process you use ARS first, I use de-waxed shellac for the same purpose.  This can be a plus in humid areas because you won't have to wait as long for it to dry as you would with ARS.  If you are top coating with a water borne finish it has to be de-waxed.  Actually de-waxed is better for almost all because you can put anything on top of it, even paint.  I use blonde shellac on woods that will darken over time like cherry and sapele and I use garnet shellac on woods like walnut that tend to lighten over time. 

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

    Nightstands

    in Member Project Journals

    Posted

    That is what I had said earlier.  I suggested looking into having the shelf space between the two drawers but hat if you did that you would have a second web frame which would reduce the height of the opening of the shelf.

    Bedroom Armoire

    in Member Project Journals

    Posted

    I talked with Steve once about hardwoods to be painted.  His number one choice was maple.  I used maple one my kitchen cabinet doors when I did the renovation last fall.  Primes and paints real nice, I highly recommend it.

    • Like 2

    Nightstands

    in Member Project Journals

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Coop said:

    Chet, putting the shelf in the middle as in half way between the floor and the bottom of the drawer? If so, that would certainly limit what could be stored on the shelf. 

    No, I just meant between the two drawers where ever that is. In other words, drawer, shelf, drawer.

    Nightstands

    in Member Project Journals

    Posted

    The old nightstands I just replaced were 30" the new ones are 22" so you are almost in the middle of really wide and and a more normal size. 🙂

    Did you give any thought to putting the shelf in the middle?  I am trying picture it but you have sketch up to try the move.  I know it would ad a web frame and it also could end up butt ugly.

    • Like 1

    Kitchen cabinets

    in Member Project Journals

    Posted

    2 hours ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said:

    Not sure how it happened but all my pockets seem to be 1 knuckle deep at the moment.

    I always thought that was just the way they were made.  We should looking to that company called Deep Pockets, maybe their pants pockets are a better fit.

    • Haha 1

    Kitchen cabinets

    in Member Project Journals

    Posted

    Just now, Kev said:

    I'm not sure it would hurt to leave the heads on since my other buildings are wether tight and we don't have much humidity here.

    I did it mainly to make storing the pipe a little tidier in the small shed.

    Drum sander

    in Power Tools

    Posted

     

    21 hours ago, Jamie said:

    shipment never came in and as far as the lady could tell they haven’t even left the factory

    Seems the biggest problem is a shortage of shipping containers.  I get almost weekly updates from vendors that I buy supplies from.  They are dealing with big delays from their suppliers because the suppliers are waiting for empty containers to show up.  Containers were used to ship PPE's to parts of the world that normally don't have a lot of shipping commerce so the empty containers are kind of stranded in those ports.  And they can't build new containers fast enough.

    • Like 1

    Kitchen cabinets

    in Member Project Journals

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Kev said:

    That's the first I've heard of that but, not doubting you..  I also know the zero clearance edges are replaceable.

    Someone mentioned it one one of the podcasts I listen to, I have no personal experience.  I would have to quit being a nice guy if I had to replace my edge every time I share my tracks. Lol

    Kitchen cabinets

    in Member Project Journals

    Posted

    6 minutes ago, Kev said:

    Makita and they work with the Festool tracks.

    This is true to a point.  The Makita offset is different then the Festool saw.  I don't know which way but before I would let a Makita owner borrow my tracks I would want to see that their saw doesn't cut my zero clearance edge and make it useless for me. 😧

×
×
  • Create New...