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pkinneb
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Posts posted by pkinneb
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9 hours ago, Coop said:
Paul, did you happen to do a journal on this table addressing the micro adjust knobs. That’s a neat deal!
I unfortunately could not find anything. However here is one better a video series on it
I knew I got it from somewhere since I've never had an original thought but I am a pretty good copier 🤣. Obviously my base is different but the top is a direct copy. BTW it appears the torsion box was 3/4" strips.
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19 hours ago, Coop said:
Paul, that is a beautiful, functional and versatile bench. What does the top of the torsion box consist of? What are the dimensions of the top, roughly?
Coop unfortunately I couldn't find any pics of the top construction but it is standard torsion box construction. In this case 6"x6" squares made with 1/2" thick 1 3/4" wide mdf strips with a 3/4" MDF top, bottom, sides and solid spots for the the squares holding the four adjustable feet. The top is 68" wide and 43" deep and 3 1/4" thick. Pic below is before I routed in the spaces for the miter bar
The cabinet it sits on is 64" wide and 31" deep which allows space for my Dust collection hoses between it and the saw cabinet. The top can be micro adjusted with the four 3/8" feet that are mounted through and onto the cabinet to get it perfectly level with the saw and can be easily adjusted from the top. I copied this design from somewhere but can't recall where.
Both the saw and cabinet are on casters in case they ever need to be moved.
I should also mention I do have another bench in the space which has the Noden adjustable base and started with a cheap Rockler bench top that I have since modified with a till and apron. This bench has a pattern makers vise and a gun stock vise I use this for chairs and extra flat space when needed.
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Not sure of your specific use case but if you already have a roubo I think I would forgo the solid top for the originally designed torsion box. That's what my set up is so I am partial to it and in my work flow I don't find a need for anything different. In my set up I do have small overhangs on the ends and also some open space on the underside which allow some clamping but I have only done that a few times.
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Honestly Kev its three basic cuts its just that its over and over and over LOL
First step is to layout the pattern I was looking to match the pin holes without getting the box to big. Ultimately I ended up with 7/8" squares which are broken down to into 8 triangles. First row is the design, second I use the knife to make the three initial cuts for each triangle (center), then go back and remove each chip (bottom row). One of my biggest issues was my poor eyes I needed to use a magnifier and was only able to do 3 or 4 7/8" squares at at time before the stain got to me.
I did take a one day class at our Woodcraft store and then just a fair amount of practice. You don't have to look to hard to see mistakes in these practice boards but I was getting better as I went.
Here you can see the knifes I have. I preferred the one to the left (from mychipcarving.com )the best and keep a strop handy as a sharp knife is required. Also you see the eraser here I found that if I wasn't careful I could damage the piece using this to erase a line(s) that didn't get removed. I later used an eraser pencil and it worked much better.
I also had issues with the chips on the very ends breaking out so I found using a jig like this solved that for me
I made this one for my uncle after seeing it on amy.makes.everything Instagram page. Since I was making one I thought why not do three so I still have two more to go one for our game room and another for a gift.
After that not sure I'll do much more chip carving but I always like learning new things so I do not regret the journey.
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Finally finished I chip carved cribbage board for my uncle that was for xmas 22 😲
Its been a tough 10 months around here but hope to get it delivered in the next week or so. Sapele and Basswood. Its an amy.makes.everything (Instagram) Design
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Thanks guys! From a wood working perspective pretty straight forward 1/16" ish shop sawn veneers for the top and bottom panels, sandwiched over 1/8" mdf. Previously I used wood guides and a hand held router to cut out for the cross this time I used my Shaper Origin. Instead of 15 min took me a couple hours but I learned about the machine and now will be able to do future ones in a few min. I also realized last night as I was posting the pics that I forgot to do the keys...oh well you guys won't tell anyone right LOL
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Another pic
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Another urn...making to many of these the last couple of years...
This one is for my mother in law we lost her on labor day
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That is going to be one sweet space!!
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Yes but it would take some test cuts to dial it in
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Agreed! If it holds up which it should since there really isn't much too them. It seals perfectly no air loss at all so that's good. This is the only tool in my shop that needs it becuase during change over I have to move the vacuum with the arm to get more slack on the flex pipe. Now I just disconnect flip to planer mode and re attach easy peasy. I could see them being really handy in a shop where you have to move between tools while using the make an instant tight seal.
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Changing over my J/P has always been a bit of a pain because of the hose, well watching a Sawyer Design YouTube the other day and I see this Magport and immediately thought I needed one 🤣
Not the cheapest solution at about $70 but man it is really going to help in changeover
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Received my new veneer saw today. I need to knock out a couple of urns and not a huge fan of the 3 cherries one I have so I thought I would give this one a try. I'll report back and let you know if I think its worth the $$$ I paid.
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Wish I was closer sounds like a fun time!
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9 hours ago, Coop said:
Paul, will you be doing a short video demonstrating the use of the shave horse, I hope!
Coop, I certainly can but it will have to be later this year when I get my hands on some fresh cut wood. I lost a couple red oaks that I plan to use for chairs so once they come down, probably Nov, I can post something up.
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2 minutes ago, Chet said:
I, too like the chair. I don't have the patience to do all the hand work required on something like that so I am real impressed with people that do.
Thanks Chet!
Actually you would be shocked how easy and cathartic making the chair is...painting it now that process is a PITA LOL
Oh and I'm almost done with a chip carved cribbage board (in the finishing room as we speak) OMG the amount of time it takes to do that is unbelievable and I thought well if your doing one why not knock out a couple extra so I have two more to go. Not gonna lie once these three are complete I will probably never chip carve again 😲
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3 hours ago, Kev said:
Very nice work!
Interested in how you like the Hi-Vise? I attached mine to the bench differently and am not happy with it. I do have the option to mount it the was you did.
I haven't used it a ton but when I do I really like it! My eye's aren't what they once were so its nice getting the work up high. I find the tail vise version much easier, less cumbersome, and quicker then the bottom screw version I used at Greg Pennington's school. But the advantage of the screw version is you can mount it anywhere.
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Here a couple pics of my most recent projects
Windsor chair
Shave horse
...and a high vise
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I have a cheap two drawer filling cabinet upstairs that I keep mine in but as you mentioned with all the different sizes the top drawer is organized the bottom is a catch all.
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Awesome work! Those little table and chairs are too cool!
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Happy New Year all!!
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Very nice!!
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Welcome! Some beautiful pieces there!
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I don't have the issues Marc talked about either. The only thing I agree with him on is the customer service. While my issued was handled very quickly and to my satisfaction its hard to believe they wouldn't send him a new unit that video can not be helping sales and quite frankly it sad becuase I think its the best miter gauge I have ever used.
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Ground breaking for Ray's shop
in Shop Tips and Techniques
Posted
It does add up but well worth it to place every run you think you might ever need before the walls get covered. I am actually getting ready to cut a pretty good sized hole (5" by 42") in one of my interior walls to splice in a new 220 outlet. Given this is the first time in 20 years, since I built the shop, I don't feel to bad. Again it pays to plan ahead 🙂