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Tmize
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Posts posted by Tmize
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I put a coat of danish oil on mine because that is what I had on hand. After I planed mine flat I sanded it with 120 grit. An it is very grippy
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No words for what you are going thru I can think of but it is a very nice project. Thoughts an prayer are with you an your family
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I got about 5 or 6 of those little bins. The way I use them is if I’m assembling something or disassembling. I will just sit them on the bench beside as I’m working on it. To put it in a example hinges I’ll unpack them an dump the screws in one container the hinge mechanism in another an covers in another that way it’s all together. I keep one or two for when I’m refurbishing some old tools then can just pour vinegar an salt in the container an come back the next day an polish them up.
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Ethiopia, kansas right????
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Shoe mould is your friend in times like that hides the small gaps for stuff to hide in
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4 minutes ago, Bushwacked said:
These ... well on the sides ?
although the finger notch I think turned out great .. although gotta do it again
That actually doesn’t look bad that way
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5 minutes ago, Coop said:
I’m confused. What drawer guides was he trying to cover with the added drawer front?
Sorry I got confused. I thought you was asking about the pic I post directly above your post. My bad
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Just glue on a thinner piece to the front same width longer. I may be wrong can you do rabbeted half blind dovetail on a dovetail jig?
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No metal drawer guides. They fit into a pocket which the drawer moves in an out also side to side.
24 minutes ago, Coop said:BW, is it the angle of the pic or did you make the drawer fronts the same width as the drawer, thus defeating the purpose of hiding your drawer guides?
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The drawer side on my lil practice project I did few weeks had 1/4” sides. They was a lil flimsy but with a solid bottom cut very tight to the groove. It actually was very stiff surprisingly. With a 5/8” drawer front
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14 minutes ago, Bushwacked said:
Like 1/2 sides with 3/4 front/back? Or what do you mean?
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I normally make my drawer side 3/8-1/2” depending on the use of the drawer. Like the large drawer on a chest of drawer I will do like 5/8”. Most smaller drawer I’ve been doing closer to 3/8”. With the face at 3/4-7/8” thick for the half blind dt
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21 hours ago, Coop said:
That’s a neat looking table. I would have never guessed that the top was pine. How did you treat the top surface of the top, just barely skip plane it?
Well sort of first I wire brushed it to remove years of paint splatter. Then used a cabinet scraper to remove glue squeeze out an even the joint out. As brittle this is from being right up next to the roof for 50 years I’m lil scared to run it thru the planer. Afraid it would turn to toothpicks
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18 hours ago, Coop said:
For lack of a better description.
In the current edition of FWW, Christian Becksvoort builds a simple looking wall shelf that has two small drawers, one atop the other. The top drawer is supported from the top by what he calls a cleat, that the top of the drawer rides on and the bottom drawer is “guided” by a similar cleat on the bottom of the drawer. I have never seen this done but looks really neat. I may build this just to experience it.
Sounds to me like he is just using them to support the drawer an act as a kicker. That is fairly normal in chest of drawer construction but in that case it’s a whole web frame. Since the drawer are not very big you don’t need all that support. You can barely see it in these pics but what I did here was a shallow mortise into the face frame then used a couple screws to fasten the runner off to the sides. I installed kickers after the drawer is built.
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She likes it. I’m coming around to the painted pieces finally I’m just glad I got her off the pallet wood crap. At least it’s well made an I’m I learning you have to be just as careful on the fit finish with paint as you do with clear film finish. So it’s good practice on managing plane track marks.
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So I have a few things the wife has requested for the living room. The next is a low bookcase I’ll probably journal this one. I should roll right into it I’ve got a few new things I want to try out with it.
She wanted it all to match the tv console I built end of last year. This one was just a quick project nothing special m&t construction an long tapered legs. The painted portion is popular with a the top is a portion of the pine beams from the LV ceiling remodel same as the tv console.
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On 8/1/2020 at 10:15 PM, Bushwacked said:
While laying out the spots for my holes and marking the cabinets as well I was tightening up the double 90 6" ruler I had and the plastic piece busted off. IT was one of those harry epsteins or whatever the site is with the blemished tools. So that was annoying as I really did like it and worked great for the 2 years or so I have had it.
I have two of these squares by far my favorite layout tool. I got mine from HE also they are listed as PEC on the website. The blades are not marked PEC like my blue 6” square is. The 4” is so much easier to handle an use.
edit. I lied mine are marked PEC on the blade the handle is black but the spring lock is all metal. Had to run downstairs an check after I wrote this.
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I would use the Forstner bit an then the router also. What kind of vise is it?
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Apply about a 3/8” thick piece to the front cut 1/2” longer than the drawer face. It would hide the drawers slides I assume side mount slides? If you grain match the walnut piece you have on there now. It will look like a overlay half blind dovetail.
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It may just be me so no offense. Why not just do a traditional m&t joint instead of a loose tenon. Routing a mortise in end grain SUCKS at least it did when I tried it. It could have just been the bit I was using a sharp straight but. That would put the mortises in the long stiles an tenons on the shorter rails the TS or bandsaw could handle with ease. I think the dowels will be a nice feature.
On 7/24/2020 at 10:24 PM, Coop said:I’m thinking jointery. Loose tenons, as deep as my current bit will allow me to make the mortises. Cutting edge on the current router bit is 1 1/4”. I’ll test some scrap pieces tomorrow to see how deep I can make them. Someone suggested bridle joints which would be super strong but I’m not sure how I would cut the center out of the 80” long stiles?
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It look proportional to me. Soild wood doors are heavy that all there is to that. If it is a bathroom door I would leave a bigger gap at the bottom along the sill. For two reason one expansion due to humidity from the shower. Also to help the the steam a place to escape to help the possibility of the mildew
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The middle divider is a stop dado. Which create two pockets the drawer just slide in. Little bit of wax an they slide nice in an out an the back of the case acts as the drawer stop.
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On 7/19/2020 at 10:07 PM, Coop said:
Too nice for the scrap pile/practice piece. So now, what will it become?
I built with no thought about what to use it for just a imagine in my head. I was probably just going to sit it up on a shelf in the shop. I thought I might could store chisels in it or something. The wife was downstairs last night with me an seen it now she has a use for it she says.
What Would you Do
in General Discussion
Posted
Never had any luck with double side tape. So I shim the front in place an shot a couple brads in thru the drawer an that will hold it in place long enough to put a couple screws in it.