Kev Posted August 10, 2021 Share Posted August 10, 2021 They look great! I typically slow the bit down a bit and make several passes for large round overs like this. Table is looking great! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwacked Posted August 10, 2021 Author Share Posted August 10, 2021 3 hours ago, Kev said: They look great! I typically slow the bit down a bit and make several passes for large round overs like this. Table is looking great! Thanks!! yes it was a good thing I randomly read all the labels on the bit case and noticed they called out a slower speed. So I slowed it down … it said 16k max. So I ran with that. Gave a super nice finish though! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwacked Posted August 12, 2021 Author Share Posted August 12, 2021 Getting the base glued up … clamping round legs sucks! Kept trying to pull things in weird directions 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Posted August 12, 2021 Share Posted August 12, 2021 Looks awesome!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted August 12, 2021 Share Posted August 12, 2021 You could have made a quick couple of clamping blocks to help. Forstner bit to match your radius.. I do this from time to time but, I'm not sure I've ever put it on film. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwacked Posted August 12, 2021 Author Share Posted August 12, 2021 1 hour ago, Kev said: You could have made a quick couple of clamping blocks to help. Forstner bit to match your radius.. I do this from time to time but, I'm not sure I've ever put it on film. gonna have to look into this next time I do this ... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted August 13, 2021 Share Posted August 13, 2021 So the inlay on the legs were cut out of the picture on the round over? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwacked Posted August 13, 2021 Author Share Posted August 13, 2021 8 hours ago, Coop said: So the inlay on the legs were cut out of the picture on the round over? no inlays on the legs, just the top ... legs are just rounded over Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwacked Posted August 14, 2021 Author Share Posted August 14, 2021 Got some racing stripes going on the top now … next to clean up the top a little more and then start cutting out the maple strips and fit the glass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwacked Posted August 14, 2021 Author Share Posted August 14, 2021 Getting everything fitted nice and snug …. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted August 14, 2021 Share Posted August 14, 2021 I really like the leg round over detail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted August 15, 2021 Share Posted August 15, 2021 I gotta ask, why didn’t you do the inlay “racing stripes” before the rabbet for the glass? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenskye (Bryan) Posted August 15, 2021 Share Posted August 15, 2021 1 hour ago, Coop said: I gotta ask, why didn’t you do the inlay “racing stripes” before the rabbet for the glass? I would assume it was because the change in grain direction could create an issue with tear out. I’m sure Drew will answer with his reasoning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted August 15, 2021 Share Posted August 15, 2021 I’m assuming that it is a rabbet and not two separate pieces, laminated together? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwacked Posted August 15, 2021 Author Share Posted August 15, 2021 12 hours ago, Coop said: I gotta ask, why didn’t you do the inlay “racing stripes” before the rabbet for the glass? 10 hours ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said: I would assume it was because the change in grain direction could create an issue with tear out. I’m sure Drew will answer with his reasoning. 9 hours ago, Coop said: I’m assuming that it is a rabbet and not two separate pieces, laminated together? haha. Honestly I wish I had a cool story on why … it’s because I suck at progression and didn’t even thing of how much easier this would be with putting them in first and then working on rabbet. I got so single sighted about how to get the rabbet in there nicely it didn’t even cross my mind that doing that first would make this next part really suuuuuuck. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwacked Posted August 19, 2021 Author Share Posted August 19, 2021 This project just keeps kicking my butt haha. Installed the figure 8s and then realized I would screw through the rabbeted top since the legs stick in further than the sides. I guess the only good thing about it is that I caught it before I did it. so now I am thinking Z clips? Don’t have any here to test so need to buy some. I have about 1/2” of space on the sides to install them without going through the thinner part. also still need to round over the edges to match… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwacked Posted August 19, 2021 Author Share Posted August 19, 2021 also ... for the frosted glass ... did yall use a film? https://www.amazon.com/Privacy-Frosted-Decorative-Covering-Bathroom/dp/B08TWWGQN1/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3YHHIDEH9PX6&dchild=1&keywords=frosted%2Bglass%2Bwindow%2Bfilm&qid=1629392886&sprefix=frosted%2B%2Caps%2C314&sr=8-3&th=1 Like that? Just one of the first things that popped up on amazon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted August 19, 2021 Share Posted August 19, 2021 1 hour ago, Bushwacked said: so now I am thinking Z clips? Don’t have any here to test so need to buy some. I have about 1/2” of space on the sides to install them without going through the thinner part. You might consider one screw centered on each side rail from the bottom into the frame. A centered screw won't restrict wood movement and still secure the top in place. 1 hour ago, Bushwacked said: also ... for the frosted glass ... did yall use a film? https://www.amazon.com/Privacy-Frosted-Decorative-Covering-Bathroom/dp/B08TWWGQN1/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3YHHIDEH9PX6&dchild=1&keywords=frosted%2Bglass%2Bwindow%2Bfilm&qid=1629392886&sprefix=frosted%2B%2Caps%2C314&sr=8-3&th=1 Like that? Just one of the first things that popped up on amazon. No, I used a rattle can with good success.. Like this .. https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-I00810-Glass-Frosting-Aerosol/dp/B001CEQ39U/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1NF2U5MHK5KAM&dchild=1&keywords=spray+window+frost&qid=1629397875&sprefix=Spray+window+%2Caps%2C360&sr=8-5 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Posted August 19, 2021 Share Posted August 19, 2021 2 hours ago, Bushwacked said: Installed the figure 8s and then realized I would screw through the rabbeted top since the legs stick in further than the sides. I guess the only good thing about it is that I caught it before I did it. No harm, no foul. I would probably use dowels, centered, one on each leg. The dowels will locate and keep the top from moving side to side, and the weight of the glass top will keep the top tight to the legs. The other advantage it will allow the top to be easily removed in case you have to move the table. +1 on the rattle can frosting @Kev linked. I have used it on several glass door projects. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwacked Posted August 19, 2021 Author Share Posted August 19, 2021 (edited) 3 hours ago, Kev said: You might consider one screw centered on each side rail from the bottom into the frame. A centered screw won't restrict wood movement and still secure the top in place. No, I used a rattle can with good success.. Like this .. https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-I00810-Glass-Frosting-Aerosol/dp/B001CEQ39U/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1NF2U5MHK5KAM&dchild=1&keywords=spray+window+frost&qid=1629397875&sprefix=Spray+window+%2Caps%2C360&sr=8-5 so just some like 3" screws or so, I believe, would be the length to attach it? so just the 2 screws in the sides ... would let wood move enough and hold it if picked up by the top? Thanks I will take a look at that and see 2 hours ago, Bob said: No harm, no foul. I would probably use dowels, centered, one on each leg. The dowels will locate and keep the top from moving side to side, and the weight of the glass top will keep the top tight to the legs. The other advantage it will allow the top to be easily removed in case you have to move the table. +1 on the rattle can frosting @Kev linked. I have used it on several glass door projects. Interesting on the dowel idea ... assuming the dowels would still let the top wood move? Even if they were glued in? Edited August 19, 2021 by Bushwacked Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted August 19, 2021 Share Posted August 19, 2021 12 minutes ago, Bushwacked said: so just some like 3" screws or so, I believe, would be the length to attach it? Thanks I will take a look at that and see Yep.. Long enough to attach the top without popping through 13 minutes ago, Bushwacked said: Interesting on the dowel idea ... assuming the dowels would still let the top wood move? Even if they were glued in? No glue and they would need to be undersized slightly on one side with this method. Or, you could glue in one long side dowels and leave the other side undersized and unglued. There's a down side to either what I suggested or what Bryan suggested. Any warping of the table with seasonal movement could show a gap off of the rails. This could be compounded is there was no weight on the table. Looking back at your original picture, is there any reason you can't use the figure 8s installed on the side rails? That's actually how I usually do it with 2 per side. This allows for movement and good hold down force. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Posted August 19, 2021 Share Posted August 19, 2021 28 minutes ago, Bushwacked said: Interesting on the dowel idea ... assuming the dowels would still let the top wood move? Even if they were glued in? Glue the dowel into the leg. No glue for the top just a hole to fit over the dowel. I don't know where you live, but I am not sure I would worry to much about movement in your top frame. It is essentially a raised panel frame without the panel. When building a raised panel door etc... the wood movement concerns come from the wood panel and not the frame. But you can just make the holes for the dowel slightly larger than the dowel to allow for movement. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwacked Posted August 19, 2021 Author Share Posted August 19, 2021 10 minutes ago, Kev said: Yep.. Long enough to attach the top without popping through No glue and they would need to be undersized slightly on one side with this method. Or, you could glue in one long side dowels and leave the other side undersized and unglued. There's a down side to either what I suggested or what Bryan suggested. Any warping of the table with seasonal movement could show a gap off of the rails. This could be compounded is there was no weight on the table. Looking back at your original picture, is there any reason you can't use the figure 8s installed on the side rails? That's actually how I usually do it with 2 per side. This allows for movement and good hold down force. gotcha .. thanks for the info As far as the figure 8's on the side ... I just assumed they were too big to fit, but I didnt look as I was frustrated with the other part and had to go pick up kids from school. I just went to check and they did fit so I installed them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwacked Posted August 19, 2021 Author Share Posted August 19, 2021 18 minutes ago, Bob said: Glue the dowel into the leg. No glue for the top just a hole to fit over the dowel. I don't know where you live, but I am not sure I would worry to much about movement in your top frame. It is essentially a raised panel frame without the panel. When building a raised panel door etc... the wood movement concerns come from the wood panel and not the frame. But you can just make the holes for the dowel slightly larger than the dowel to allow for movement. I will definitely try this out on a future build ... got my issue worked out for now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted August 20, 2021 Share Posted August 20, 2021 3 hours ago, Bushwacked said: gotcha .. thanks for the info As far as the figure 8's on the side ... I just assumed they were too big to fit, but I didnt look as I was frustrated with the other part and had to go pick up kids from school. I just went to check and they did fit so I installed them. Assuming your rails are 3/4" (or close to it) they should fit fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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