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Bedroom Armoire


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10 hours ago, Coop said:

Anyone know of some good hinges for inset doors? I’m looking at these. Don’t know yet what the gap is between the door and face frame with these. The doors are 51” tall by 18” wide each and will be 3/4” thick. Thinking of using 3 per door.

https://www.rockler.com/ball-tip-full-back-to-back-wrap-around-inset-hinges

Apologies if you've answered this elsewhere in this thread but, why not euro hinges?  Easy to install and easy to take the doors on/off while you make adjustments..

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And I see that Blum makes a soft close euro hinge. Before assembly, I will weigh the parts and call Blum with the dimensions to see how many per door I will need. Thanks! 

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On 6/15/2021 at 9:43 PM, Coop said:

Anyone know of some good hinges for inset doors? I’m looking at these. Don’t know yet what the gap is between the door and face frame with these. The doors are 51” tall by 18” wide each and will be 3/4” thick. Thinking of using 3 per door.

https://www.rockler.com/ball-tip-full-back-to-back-wrap-around-inset-hinges

I’ve used ones very similar to those and had no issues. 

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I chose the black barrel type hinges as that’s what the original hinges looked like and it’s going to be painted/antiqued and figured that’s what wifey would want. When given the choice, she chose the euro hinges. I quit trying to second guess! Soft close Blum euro hinges bought today with no instructions. What do people without the net do? 

On a side note, there will be two adjustable shelves in addition to the one fixed shelf. I have just enough 3/4” ply to make these with 1” hardwood banding on the two long sides. However, in doing so, the grain on the top and bottom will be running front to back instead of left to right. I realize that the veneer we see is only skin deep but does it reflect the strength of the inner plys? The shelves are 37” x 17” and will be supported by shelf pins. 

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2 minutes ago, Coop said:

1/4” is what I drilled. I can’t see anything going on these shelves, heavier than the shelves themselves. Probably bed sheets, etc. 

I think the 1/4 was a wise choice.

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16 minutes ago, Coop said:

👍

Go back and read the edited part. 

Structurally you're fine..  Just depends on what you want visually.

If you're concerned structurally, leave a lip on the front or add one to the back.  If you want to be 100% sure, drop the dimensions into the sagulator and see what you get but, pretty sure you're fine.

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1 minute ago, Kev said:

Structurally you're fine..  Just depends on what you want visually.

If you're concerned structurally, leave a lip on the front or add one to the back.  If you want to be 100% sure, drop the dimensions into the sagulator and see what you get but, pretty sure you're fine.

Sagulator.......going to have to google this one. 

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12 minutes ago, Kev said:

Structurally you're fine..  Just depends on what you want visually.

If you're concerned structurally, leave a lip on the front or add one to the back.  If you want to be 100% sure, drop the dimensions into the sagulator and see what you get but, pretty sure you're fine.

Probably a 1/4” lip on the bottom of the shelf will give it visual strength as well. Good idea! Thanks

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4 minutes ago, Coop said:

Probably a 1/4” lip on the bottom of the shelf will give it visual strength as well. Good idea! Thanks

They help hide the pins as well.

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Now to build the inset doors with raised panels with limited ( this build) experience. I’m shooting for a 1/16” gap every where and will settle, knock on wood, for 1/8”. 

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2 minutes ago, Coop said:

After thought. Probably shoot for 1/8” due to the clearance of the swing of the doors. 

Shoot for the 1/16th to allow for adjustment room..  You may have to do a small inner chamfer but, the euro hinges usually account for that.

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15 hours ago, Coop said:

Now to build the inset doors with raised panels with limited ( this build) experience. I’m shooting for a 1/16” gap every where and will settle, knock on wood, for 1/8”. 

For inset I would build them tight.  Leaves you plenty of room to trim.  You can still size them to your 1/16" under by increasing your rail and stile width.  If you do that just remember to cut your stiles a longer to accommodate that extra rail width.

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I cut the panels today and glued up the doors. Somehow or another I was able to cut some shims, miked to exactly 1/16” (not shown). With a little hand plane adjustment, I should be ok. Pictured are the doors just sitting in place. My next challenge after fine tuning are the euro style hinges. The dark area about midway on the right door is not space but the color of the poplar. 

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5 minutes ago, Coop said:

I cut the panels today and glued up the doors. Somehow or another I was able to cut some shims, miked to exactly 1/16” (not shown). With a little hand plane adjustment, I should be ok. Pictured are the doors just sitting in place. My next challenge after fine tuning are the euro style hinges. The dark area about midway on the right door is not space but the color of the poplar. 

 

That dark spot will go away with paint...

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My next objective is to mate the bottom with the top. The very bottom piece of the top, is a 4” wide piece of 3/4” ply banded with the poplar. I will add a similar thickness piece to the top of the bottom section, that will fit inside the top section to keep them in alignment. 

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Kev, the euro hinges were a great idea. I bought the Blum soft close and no latches or magnets needed. I’ve used euro hinges before on shop cabinets and didn’t give much thought when drilling the cup hole but I stopped just about every third revolution of the drill bit to measure the depth on this project, to keep from drilling thru the doors! 😀

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