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On 6/2/2021 at 9:12 PM, Kev said:

Skip the jigs..  I have them and don't use them, I'll show you how to do it. 

Kev, almost to the drawer build. The instructions seem simple enough unless you know an easier way? 

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I added the face frame and the trim to the top. I still need to add 3/4” thick strips on all four sides of the bottom for it to sit on the drawer base. The drawer base will have similar strips on it’s

On just about every project I build, I try and incorporate something new. I liked the way Kev notched his legs to receive the dust frame so I thought I would give it a try. I went back to his dresser

I cut the panels today and glued up the doors. Somehow or another I was able to cut some shims, miked to exactly 1/16” (not shown). With a little hand plane adjustment, I should be ok. Pictured are th

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25 minutes ago, Coop said:

Kev, almost to the drawer build. The instructions seem simple enough unless you know an easier way? 

I'm hoping to finish up the second construction video tomorrow which has the tricks to avoid the jigs in it.  If you need it sooner, let me know and I'll extract it out of that video and create a specific video for you to see.

The second video is quite long so, will also take a while to upload.  I have no issues creating a special video for you..  I have the footage, just takes a few minutes to edit and about an hour to upload..

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No sir, it will be Friday or later before I start on the drawer build. Thanks for the offer. I will be using box joints for the drawer joinery. What kind of joinery did you use on the night stand drawers? 

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5 minutes ago, Coop said:

No sir, it will be Friday or later before I start on the drawer build. Thanks for the offer. I will be using box joints for the drawer joinery. What kind of joinery did you use on the night stand drawers? 

I used dowels but, the joinery is irrelevant.

The important part is to make sure you leave 1/2" below the drawer bottom for the hardware.  Also, the drawer width is pretty important and dependent on the thickness of your drawer material.  Blum calls for 1/2" to 5/8" thickness of drawer parts.

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I’m pushing my luck on a 37” wide drawer so I will go with the 5/8”. Darn shame to mill a piece of 4/4 maple to 5/8”! 

From what I can tell, the initial pic of the whitish antiqued “goal”, the drawer front is simply a piece of ply or other, built out with store bought trim. My doors will be solid wood, raised panels and I would like the drawer front to be the same. I’m thinking of making the raised panels and gluing them to the false front. This again will be one wide drawer. Opinions? 

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2 minutes ago, Coop said:

I’m pushing my luck on a 37” wide drawer so I will go with the 5/8”. Darn shame to mill a piece of 4/4 maple to 5/8”! 

From what I can tell, the initial pic of the whitish antiqued “goal”, the drawer front is simply a piece of ply or other, built out with store bought trim. My doors will be solid wood, raised panels and I would like the drawer front to be the same. I’m thinking of making the raised panels and gluing them to the false front. This again will be one wide drawer. Opinions? 

I think you're fine..  5/8" is fine, just don't go more than that..  More than that and they won't slide nice in the rails.  Obviously, square is pretty important if you're maxed on thickness..

For the record, I've run all of my drawer parts at 5/8" because I'd rather "overbuild" ..  All my plans call for 1/2" because that's more of a nominal dimension for drawer parts.

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2 minutes ago, Coop said:

Yep, square above all! That’s what I like about box joints. Looks like crap on ply but with hardwood, close to dt’s.

I like Box Joints!  

Hmm..  Might have to find a creative way to do just another box joint sled...lol

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My go to is the Rockler on the router table with a good bit and the brass spacer blocks and test pieces, it’s hard to go wrong. Never tried them on the ts.

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1 minute ago, Coop said:

My go to is the Rockler on the router table with a good bit and the brass spacer blocks and test pieces, it’s hard to go wrong. Never tried them on the ts.

I've always thought the TS was the way to go with these..  If you have thick material, you're asking a lot of a router bit.

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If I remember right don’t they make the slides to accommodate thicker material? Going purely off memory here.....I think type “a” would allow to go with 3/4 to 7/8 box side thickness. 

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2 hours ago, Jamie said:

If I remember right don’t they make the slides to accommodate thicker material? Going purely off memory here.....I think type “a” would allow to go with 3/4 to 7/8 box side thickness. 

They might but, the ones he ordered are limited to 1/2" to 5/8".  I've never looked into glides that accept thicker material.  

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The drawer will be one wide one using the Blum under mount slides. Those that have followed will see that the doors above will be raised panels. As I would like to continue the door design to the drawers, I’m thinking dual raised panels with a stile between the two panels for the drawer front. Not sure yet if it would be better to do an overlay drawer front or an inset. Overlay would definitely be easier. Both will require false fronts. I’ve done some research and don’t find a raised panel, false front drawer, especially with two panels. I guess I had better put the thinking cap on before going further. 

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3 minutes ago, Coop said:

The drawer will be one wide one using the Blum under mount slides. Those that have followed will see that the doors above will be raised panels. As I would like to continue the door design to the drawers, I’m thinking dual raised panels with a stile between the two panels for the drawer front. Not sure yet if it would be better to do an overlay drawer front or an inset. Overlay would definitely be easier. Both will require false fronts. I’ve done some research and don’t find a raised panel, false front drawer, especially with two panels. I guess I had better put the thinking cap on before going further. 

Attaching a drawer front (even a raised panel) is much easier to do to a false drawer front.  Connecting the drawer box without the false front can be done (and is often done) but, the math becomes much for critical as you only get one shot at it.  The glides you chose help that a lot if you choose to skip the false front.

 

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Will definitely be a false front, just not sure of an inset or overlay. Got to give some thought as to how to make a dual raised panel false front. 

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16 minutes ago, Coop said:

Will definitely be a false front, just not sure of an inset or overlay. Got to give some thought as to how to make a dual raised panel false front. 

If your doors are inset, the drawer front should be as well.  If the doors are overlay, then the drawer front should be as well..  

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2 hours ago, Coop said:

Both will be inset. Just sharpened my hand plane blades in anticipation. Looking forward to the challenge. 

The Blum glides will cut down on the amount of hand planing you have to do!

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I bought a 3/8” spiral upcut router bit and used it in with my Rockler box joint cutting jig and it worked great on the 5/8” maple drawer sides. 

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I mounted the Blum undermount slides to the case and went to mount the the two pieces to the underside of the drawer only to discover that their were two left hand units instead of a right and left. I drove 2 hours round trip back to Rockler to get the right one. The install was way easier than I anticipated, thanks to Kev’s video. 

As the doors will have raised panels, I am making the one wide drawer to have matching panels on a false drawer front. I’ve never made raised panels but with some practice on some scrap on the ts, they came out tolerable. Pictured is a dry fit with sanding, dominos and glueup tomorrow. 

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30 minutes ago, Jamie said:

That stinks on the drive! 

No apology offered, even after mentioning the drive, and the mgr was the guy that helped me. 

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7 hours ago, Coop said:

No apology offered, even after mentioning the drive, and the mgr was the guy that helped me. 

Gotta appreciate great customer service. 

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