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Sad part is, some folks get to go to Woodworking schools like Marc Adams and Lonnie Bird’s and I have to go to Anna White’s (?) school on how to paint a piece to make it look old. 🤪

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I added the face frame and the trim to the top. I still need to add 3/4” thick strips on all four sides of the bottom for it to sit on the drawer base. The drawer base will have similar strips on it’s

On just about every project I build, I try and incorporate something new. I liked the way Kev notched his legs to receive the dust frame so I thought I would give it a try. I went back to his dresser

I cut the panels today and glued up the doors. Somehow or another I was able to cut some shims, miked to exactly 1/16” (not shown). With a little hand plane adjustment, I should be ok. Pictured are th

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4 minutes ago, Coop said:

Sad part is, some folks get to go to Woodworking schools like Marc Adams and Lonnie Bird’s and I have to go to Anna White’s (?) school on how to paint a piece to make it look old. 🤪

I know I'm laughing at this but, my coffee bar in the kitchen is the same way...  Killer walnut top on top of a BB store unfinished cabinet finished with chalk paint, glaze, and some WB clear....lol. For the record, the piece still looks great and is holding up super well!

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As much as I like taking classes that one will probably never make my list either but just didn't want you to miss out 😄

I'll be there on 6/11 for the Michael Fortune #1 chair class as well as the jigs class the weekend before and his bs class the sat after. I am looking forward to this one should be a fun build and lots to learn.

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Darn good thing I went with poplar as it was close to $400 which included 2 sheets of 3/4” birch ply and 1 ea. Of 1/2” and 1/4”. Also included soft maple for the drawer, 1/2 of which will go thru the planer. 

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1 hour ago, Coop said:

Darn good thing I went with poplar as it was close to $400 which included 2 sheets of 3/4” birch ply and 1 ea. Of 1/2” and 1/4”. Also included soft maple for the drawer, 1/2 of which will go thru the planer. 

My thinking is this.  Non of us want to pay more then we have to for lumber, but you wouldn't be able to buy the quality you are going to build for $400.

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“If you don’t have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”  John Wooden

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2 minutes ago, Chet said:

My thinking is this.  Non of us want to pay more then we have to for lumber, but you wouldn't be able to buy the quality you are going to build for $400.

Agreed!

For me, the Alder would have been 1/2 that price and similar on the Janka scale.  I don't know what @Coop's local lumber market is though..

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3 minutes ago, Coop said:

Knotty alder is $1.95 where superior alder is $4.65 bf. Almost twice the price of poplar. 

My "knotty" alder is usually pretty clear and yours is a nickel cheaper than mine..  Curious how clear yours is?

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I went for the poplar and soft maple for the drawer. And birch 4x8 cabinet paint grade ply, 3/4”, 1/2” and 1/4” for the tops, bottoms, side panels and back. 

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Here is what I’m shooting for, construction wise. However, it will have only one drawer at the bottom. The doors will be raised panels which I will attempt on the ts. I’m thinking of breaking up the doors into two raised panels each. One, to make it easier to cut on the ts and two, to match our bedroom door. The br door has a 36” panel at the top and 24” panel at the bottom. Does that sound logical, 3/2 ratio? 

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2 minutes ago, Coop said:

Here is what I’m shooting for, construction wise. However, it will have only one drawer at the bottom. The doors will be raised panels which I will attempt on the ts. I’m thinking of breaking up the doors into two raised panels each. One, to make it easier to cut on the ts and two, to match our bedroom door. The br door has a 36” panel at the top and 24” panel at the bottom. Does that sound logical, 3/2 ratio? 

A little confused on the bottom drawers..  One drawer total or 2 drawers full width?

Hope you're up to snuff on crown molding... 😉

Nice looking piece!

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One wide drawer and that’s where you come into play, later in the game on the bottom mount slides. Crown molding will be purchased and yeah, have done several throughout the house. My first attempt was actually upside down but I attest to this day that it was intentional. 😀

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7 minutes ago, Coop said:

One wide drawer and that’s where you come into play, later in the game on the bottom mount slides. 

Well, in the next day or 3 I'll be doing the drawers in the nightstands with some tips and tricks so, be sure to remind me to drop you a link to that video when it's done..  They're really not hard bud..

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Coop, I’m not following the 1 drawer thing.  I get your making it basically the width of the case, but if your going super deep, I think that is a mistake from a function standpoint.  If you made exactly like above, I would do 2 full width drawers, for the top portion, I would keep as 1 raised panel per door, I think 2 would look strange with the wide drawers.

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Bryan, thanks for the input. Wife wants more shelf space than drawer, thus the reason for eliminating the top drawer. Plan is to build this in two sections, top shelf area and bottom drawer and support.

Here is a rough drawing of the front, with one panel and two. 

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My thinking on the doors is that two panels would help break up the long door and two, make it easier to cut the panels on the ts. And, a design/proportions guy, I am not! 

The drawer box will be 16” deep and approx 7” high. Here is a pic of a armoire that we purchased many years ago with one drawer at the bottom. This one has an area on the left for hanging clothes and shelves on the right side. There is a vertical divider where the doors meet than I don’t intend to have. The 41” shelves will go the full width. There is a mirror on the left door in case you are wondering what that is. So far, I only have the pieces cut for the two side panels and am certainly open for suggestions. 

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19 minutes ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said:

Coop, it looks like the top section is a lot taller in your drawing than the photo.  I think 2 panels would be fine but to me the smaller panel on top would be my choice.  Wife wins, so take my opinion with a grain of salt.

Agreed..  I think it would "lighten" the top a little to have the smaller panel on the top..

Also, the client is always right!

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5 hours ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said:

Coop, it looks like the top section is a lot taller in your drawing than the photo.  I think 2 panels would be fine but to me the smaller panel on top would be my choice.  Wife wins, so take my opinion with a grain of salt.

It is taller as I am eliminating the top layer of drawers. Not sure if the pic has four drawers or two wide drawers but mine will have only one wide drawer at about 36”.

I am making it in two sections with the break at the molding above the drawer. 

Wife only agreed with two raised panels in each door and not the proportions. That was my decision based on what our two panel door looks like going into the bedroom. Again, I don’t do proportions well at all and welcome all suggestions. I could make them equal for that matter. Appreciate the input. 

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I usually mark an arrow indicating which side of my mark to put my guide but didn’t in this case. I caught it before make the second pass with the router. As it will be painted and it’s on the inside, any kind of filler strip will do. A shallow dado for a fixed shelf to fit into. 

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1 minute ago, Coop said:

I usually mark an arrow indicating which side of my mark to put my guide but didn’t in this case. I caught it before make the second pass with the router. As it will be painted and it’s on the inside, any kind of filler strip will do. A shallow dado for a fixed shelf to fit into. 

1F378C95-0754-404B-9A7B-3926EF113321.thumb.jpeg.2611fa2d714171f0b80c10b67701776c.jpeg

 

Man!  Have I done that before!

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As I cut the rabbet in the side panels for the top with the dado stack and the dado for the shelf with a router, there was a wee bit of difference in the depths of the two cuts. The router plane took out the difference. One of those tools that I don’t use often but sure comes in handy when the need arises. 

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