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Hey folks! ?

I'm starting on that stand I mentioned previously.  I've been playing with the numbers to see what my Thought Process Machine can come up with.

These are just rough sketches - the first one below is REALLY rough! ? ?

The dimensions of the item the stand is for is 24-1/2 wide inches front to back x 28-1/2 inches long side to side and 10 inches deep.  It weighs approximately 100+lbs.  The space the stand is going in is 60 inches tall, it's the loft in the 1924 Schoolhouse.  They built the loft wrong, in my opinion...but, it is what it is.  I need to work with it.

1987284453_Stand000103292021.thumb.jpg.18d92225ff05c76585fa28d7e7f90f84.jpg

I started working with some actual design...

581864408_Stand000203292021.thumb.jpg.2fb3787abb9eb21588f34f35b76c9644.jpg

After staring at the above design I started thinking about racking strength.

I wanted to do some nice joinery - I wanted to 'try' for the first time, nice joinery.  I'm not set up for joinery.  I was thinking a break-down through-tenon & wedge joinery for the stand itself.  I was thinking dovetails on the shelves at least, maybe box joints.  I'm just not set up for any of that.  I have a router and a router table insert.  I don't have a router table.

I don't have a table saw.  I have a track saw.  I have enough track to make long rip cuts with it.  I have a junky Craftsman, extremely inaccurate, miter saw that I'd rather not use at all, but it is here in case I need it.  I have the 6 inch Jointer.  I have the 13-1/8 inch thickness planer.

When thinking about racking strength, I hit on this design.

1569117885_Stand000303292021.thumb.jpg.32ce931a3ae3a0b2c863c6fbf937a0db.jpg

I'm leaning towards this third design.  I like how the profile looks...and it will be rack-resistant.  I'm pretty sure I can make the frame to shelve joint a half-lap and I'd like to dowel pin it also using 3 pins per joint.  I don't have a dowel cutter, so I'm not sure how I'd accomplish that! ?

So, I'm open to ideas.  The very top part is a light-duty part-time sort of holder/rack.

The dimensions on the second sketch are mostly accurate.  The space is 60 inches tall.  The top of the piece will be approximately 48 inches off the floor (maybe a tiny bit taller).  The top shelf will be 24 inches off the floor.  The middle shelf will be 12 inches off the floor.  The bottom shelf will be where it winds up being, but I do want the bottom shelf boxed in.  I don't want it open, I want it closed off.  I'm pretty sure I can make interlocking rabbets on the shelves although I've never made a rabbet joint ?.

In that third sketch I have already changed the orientation of the half-laps.  I'll be using that Red Oak and I thought the diagonal braces would look good at full heights instead of the other way around.  So, mentally reverse the 'dashed lines' ?

What I really haven't worked out at all is how to prevent side-to-side racking.  The only idea I have had on the side-to-side racking is making a cross brace in the bottom shelf area, just extending from the bottom shelf up to the middle shelf.

Any ideas on any of it?  A better design?  A proven design?  Better joinery I can do with the tools listed above?  A good way to dowel pin the frame to shelf connection without a dowel maker (I can buy some dowel rod)?  I have a hand-plane, a #4 (maybe a #5), I think...but, which ever plane it is, the iron is garbage.  The guy I bought it from used a grinder to put an edge on it, and did a horrible job of doing it (it's burned blue and wavy as all get out! ?).  I don't have a good way to create a new edge on it, yet.

I hope you're all well!

@Kev, I have watched your latest videos, the catch of goodies and the Harvey MG 36 Zero Clearance videos.  Great work!  I'm interested in what you have in store with the Bandy Clamps ?

Make it a great week! ?

?,

RXR

Edited by RxR Sawdust Station
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Please provide a reference location or link to the previous post. I’m the worlds worst at searching for these kind of things. What will this be used for? 

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6 minutes ago, Coop said:

Please provide a reference location or link to the previous post. I’m the worlds worst at searching for these kind of things. What will this be used for? 

Hey there, @Coop?.

I have not linked a Kevs Woodworks post before but I think this gets you there.

Here's to trying! ?

?,

RXR

 

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1 hour ago, RxR Sawdust Station said:

I'm leaning towards this third design.  I like how the profile looks...and it will be rack-resistant.  I'm pretty sure I can make the frame to shelve joint a half-lap and I'd like to dowel pin it also using 3 pins per joint.  I don't have a dowel cutter, so I'm not sure how I'd accomplish that! ?

 

A dowel plate is really nothing more than a piece of steel plate with appropriate sized hole drilled in it.  They're just not complicated.

2 hours ago, RxR Sawdust Station said:

 

What I really haven't worked out at all is how to prevent side-to-side racking.  The only idea I have had on the side-to-side racking is making a cross brace in the bottom shelf area, just extending from the bottom shelf up to the middle shelf.

Any ideas on any of it?  A better design?  A proven design?  Better joinery I can do with the tools listed above?  A good way to dowel pin the frame to shelf connection without a dowel maker (I can buy some dowel rod)?  I have a hand-plane, a #4 (maybe a #5), I think...but, which ever plane it is, the iron is garbage.  The guy I bought it from used a grinder to put an edge on it, and did a horrible job of doing it (it's burned blue and wavy as all get out! ?).  I don't have a good way to create a new edge on it, yet.

 

From what I see in that design, I don't think you're going to get much if any side to side racking.  The thickness of those shelves should be more than adequate for that!

2 hours ago, RxR Sawdust Station said:

 

@Kev, I have watched your latest videos, the catch of goodies and the Harvey MG 36 Zero Clearance videos.  Great work!  I'm interested in what you have in store with the Bandy Clamps ?

 

Nothing "upcoming" in store for them.  That could easily change tomorrow...lol. There's been a few times in the shop over the last year or two where I wish I'd of had them on hand.  So, just adding them to the clamp wall so they're available when I want/need them.

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7 minutes ago, Kev said:

A dowel plate is really nothing more than a piece of steel plate with appropriate sized hole drilled in it.  They're just not complicated.

From what I see in that design, I don't think you're going to get much if any side to side racking.  The thickness of those shelves should be more than adequate for that!

Nothing "upcoming" in store for them.  That could easily change tomorrow...lol. There's been a few times in the shop over the last year or two where I wish I'd of had them on hand.  So, just adding them to the clamp wall so they're available when I want/need them.

Quote

A dowel plate is really nothing more than a piece of steel plate with appropriate sized hole drilled in it.  They're just not complicated.

See now, I had completely forgotten that.  I knew it, I've seen several videos on that exact topic.  Just one of those things, when you need something...it's just not there!

Quote

The thickness of those shelves should be more than adequate for that!

Another excellent point.  And, I plan to try locking rabbets, so that should help even more.

And, yes, on the Bandy Clamps....that's the only reason I even know of them...I thought, "wouldn't those be nice to have IF I ever needed them!" ?

Thank you, @Kev?

?,

RXR

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