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Master Bedroom Furniture


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Had some time today and got all the mortises done for the aprons, 32 in all.  After that I used up some scraps to make the loose tenon stock.

After gluing up the leg blanks I cut some veneer to glue over the glue lines on the leg blanks.  You can see the veneer on the top and bottom on this end view of the leg. Doing this gives y

Next thing I did was get the top on and trimmed it out with some shop made molding and added a banding detail around the case at the base and below the top drawer.   There is one other

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Looking great Chet! I like the banding. Couple of questions:

1) why did you decide to do away with the thru tenons on the front of the legs as in the initial design?

2) the side panels are flush with the legs. Are they set and glued into rabbets or did you rabbet the panels to fit into grooves in the legs. Hope the terminology is correct?

3) the legs are proud of the aprons. How did you perform that? I went back thru this thread and zoomed into the pics but couldn’t pick these out. 

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1 hour ago, Coop said:

1) why did you decide to do away with the thru tenons on the front of the legs as in the initial design?

On the nightstands that I am copying the thru tenons are fake and then to top it off there is no top apron either so that makes them just dumb.  I drew them in because they where on the originals but never really planned to incorporate them.

1 hour ago, Coop said:

2) the side panels are flush with the legs. Are they set and glued into rabbets or did you rabbet the panels to fit into grooves in the legs. Hope the terminology is correct?

They are edge grain to edge grain but I did put in a few small floating mortises just cuz. 

1 hour ago, Coop said:

3) the legs are proud of the aprons. How did you perform that? I went back thru this thread and zoomed into the pics but couldn’t pick these out. 

The legs are 2 inches square the aprons are 3/4" and I just used floating tenons with mortises.

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“If you don’t have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”  John Wooden

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Not a lot to show today, I just finished up a lot of hand sanding.  After that I did the pyramids of the faux through mortises.

I didn't do a good job of documenting this process but I will try to explain.  I have found that the downward cut on my miter saw seems to do a better job of this then cross cutting on the table saw.  I don't know why but it does.  I also think that it helps to have a Miter saw that doesn't have any real blade deflection and a saw that stays tuned up.   I attach a scrap of wood to the fence on my miter saw, set the miter to 22.5° and make a cut.  Then line up the inside edge of you stock with the outside edge of the cut you just made on you sacrificial piece.  Then I used a screw clamp as a stop block.  From here you simple make a cut, rotate the stock toward the fence make a cut and continue until you have done all four sides.

Then I take it to the table saw and using the miter gauge  cut it a 1/4" long from the bottom edge of the pyramid.

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Here they are in place.

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Closer view.

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“If you don’t have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”  John Wooden

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I certainly hope I remember this trick when I need to do these in the future!

Might be a good individual write up for the reference section as it's damn good!

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21 minutes ago, Coop said:

Consider doing all four corners

Thought about it a little bit but as these are nightstands we generally have a book or two laying on top and my bible is always on one corner so I need some flat surface area.

 

 

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“If you don’t have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”  John Wooden

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15 minutes ago, Kev said:

Might be a good individual write up for the reference section as it's damn good!

I will do that when I get a chance. 

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“If you don’t have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”  John Wooden

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I work on getting the gapping on my drawer fronts.  I was looking for about 1/16 all the way around and then I was going to do a real small chamfer on all four edges.  But as it turns out I had too many thumbs on each hand today and managed to drop and ding the edges on three of the six drawer fronts on the edge of my work bench. 😟  The fibers were to damaged to steam out on two so I ended up having to have a gap that ended up being a heavy 3/32.  Now I would be afraid that a chamfer would make the gaps look to big so I think I am going to be stuck with just easing the edges with some sand paper and calling it good.

This is what I have right now, nothing has been done to ease anything so far.  Whats the group here think?

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“If you don’t have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”  John Wooden

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I think they look great as well. If you really are dead set on a chamfer or a reveal, you can trim the fronts down on all four sides and wrap the sides in a bead board that stood proud of the drawer front. More time and trouble and it would just give me more chance for error if I were doing it. 

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1 hour ago, Coop said:

you can trim the fronts down on all four sides and wrap the sides in a bead board that stood proud of the drawer front.

I am a fan of cock beading, I like the look but I think in this case with the other details and the recessed top drawer that it would get to looking too busy.

I think I am going to just ease th hedges so they aren't sharp to the touch and leave it at that.

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“If you don’t have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”  John Wooden

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  • 2 weeks later...

After mounting the drawer fronts to the drawers, the final thing to do was center and flush the drawers to the front of the cabinet.

If you recall, back when I first installed the drawer slides into the cabinets I left the back un-attached.  This makes flushing and centering the drawer real easy.  I push the drawer in, then with a good straight edge across the front of the cabinet I push the drawer back toward the front of the cabinet from the back side.  Then nudging the un-attached portion of the glide left or right to get the drawer perfectly flush on both sides.

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Once this is done and being careful not to move anything, I clamp the slide to the web frame with a spring clamp.  

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Then I push the drawer back out and place a second spring clamp on the inside of the web frame.  This allows me to remove the first which gives me room to drill and install the screw.

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The glide is narrow so I do this by hand with a screw drive so I don't split the glide.  I also installed some stop blocks for the drawers.

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Final picture before starting the finish process shows a dry fit of the drawer pulls.   We liked the drawer pulls on the existing nightstands so I removed them and replaced them with some others. 

Before I made this latest post I applied a coat of blonde shellac.  I usually use garnet shellac but on something dark like Sapele I use blonde so the wood doesn't get to dark.  Tomorrow I will sand lightly and then start applying General Finishes High Performance.

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“If you don’t have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”  John Wooden

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The nightstands are finished.  I am real happy with the color on the finished product.  I will try to get some better pictures in the house.  I won't be starting the bed for a month or so, I have a number of things around the house that need attention.  

First on the list, starting tomorrow I need to move a fair amount of the shop out of the way for the new garage door to be installed Friday AM.

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Just as a point of interest here is one of the existing nightstands that I was copying.

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“If you don’t have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”  John Wooden

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They turned out great Chet!  Doesn't look like you strayed too far from the original design but, I like the touches you added!

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