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Master Bedroom Furniture


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Had some time today and got all the mortises done for the aprons, 32 in all.  After that I used up some scraps to make the loose tenon stock.

No it is pretty simple, you only have to mark out the mortise on piece if all you pieces are the same thickness like these web frames.  If it is something like a leg and apron then you need to mark ou

After gluing up the leg blanks I cut some veneer to glue over the glue lines on the leg blanks.  You can see the veneer on the top and bottom on this end view of the leg. Doing this gives y

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38 minutes ago, Kev said:

Amazing how much that's looking like the cabinets for under my desk ?

 

Damn, you caught me.

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They will be attached.  I am using dovetail drawer slides which will be attached in the middle of the frames so the web frames will be an active part of the drawer operation.

“If you don’t have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”  John Wooden

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I got the side panels and legs glued up yesterday afternoon.

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Then I had to do a little size adjustment to the web frames. I had to shave about 1/32 of an inch from the width to close a gap that I had with the front and back aprons.  After this I put a coat of blonde shellac on the inside of the side panel assemblies.  It was easier to do this now before the web frames were glued in and in the way.

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After that dried I did the glue up of both of the case assemblies.  They were somewhat challenging getting the web frames and mortise and tenons all lined up and together.  The first one was pretty straight forward but the second one fought me a little with the mortise and tenons of the back apron.

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On 3/15/2021 at 8:39 PM, Chet said:

They will be attached.  I am using dovetail drawer slides which will be attached in the middle of the frames so the web frames will be an active part of the drawer operation.

Attached as with just glue in this glue up? 

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1 hour ago, Kev said:

Was interesting to see your issue was with one of your M&T joints..

Even though I put a small groove on both sides of the loose tenons when I made them I don't think it was a deep enough groove and I ended up with some hydraulic lock.  I took everything apart and removed some of the glue and everything went together.  It's just a little nerve wracking when you have glue on everything.?

 

9 minutes ago, Coop said:

Attached as with just glue in this glue up? 

Yes

“If you don’t have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”  John Wooden

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10 minutes ago, Chet said:

Even though I put a small groove on both sides of the loose tenons when I made them I don't think it was a deep enough groove and I ended up with some hydraulic lock.  I took everything apart and removed some of the glue and everything went together.  It's just a little nerve wracking when you have glue on everything.

 

And that’s something you don’t encounter in a dry fit. Glad it worked out well for you! 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I need to get this caught up.

I built the drawer boxes using 1/2 baltic birch ply with 1/4 ply bottoms.  I used a half blind Tongue and Rabbet joint for the front corners and dado for the back piece.

This is a Half Blind Tongue and Rabbet joint.   You may have heard it called a bunch of other names but I first saw it in a book written by Tage Frid clear back in 1979 so I am using the name he used.

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All six drawers in their future location

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After this I started on the dovetail drawer slides.  Starting with the female section I hog out most of the waste using my dado stack.  I center the stack on my work and made a pass then flipped it end for end to keep it centered.

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After this I ran it through on the router table with my 5/8" dovetail bit and again flipped it end for end for a second pass.

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After this I started on the male portion.  My Dovetail bit is a 7° bit so I set the saw blade to the same and adjust the height to 3/8" and move the fence to the left of the blade.  Then after making a pass on each side I test the fit and gradually sneak up on the fit.   I find that making the female first then fitting the male to it is easier then the other way around.  My fit goal is a gap of about 10 thou on each side which can look like a lot but after you get a couple of coats of finish on it and some wax it is just about perfect.

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You end up with this.

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Next I notch each end to fit over the web frame.

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I center and then screw it to the front part of the web frame.  I only attach the front at this point, then once I get the female slide attached to the drawer bottom and the drawer front added to the drawer, I can slide it in place and by nudging the the back of the male dovetail left or right I can get everything on the front side of the drawer flush and centered, then carefully clamp and then screw the back dovetail to the web frame.

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I used my drill press with a counter sink bit to drill six holes in the female sections of the glides, three down each side.

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When attaching the slide to the drawer bottom I used 1 1/4" screws on the two back holes because they go into the drawer back, the other four were 3/4".

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I cut the drawer fronts to almost final size and will finesse the final fit with a hand plane.  My wife likes to be a Wise A$$ sometimes, she asked if I was going to leave the caulk when they are finished. 🙄

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Then the two top drawers get trimmed out a little different.

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Thats the Same one Marc uses, its from Amana tools.  I really like it, the counter sink and drill depth are both adjustable so when you get to the center sink depth you set, you can't go any deeper, goof proof for people like me.

They are a little pricey ($35) but really worth it in my opinion. 

“If you don’t have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”  John Wooden

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1 minute ago, Kev said:

I'm with your wife though, you should leave the chalk and call it a Star Trek design! 😉

She thought they were two different designs so I would remember which one went on which side of the bed when I got them in the house.

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34 minutes ago, Chet said:

Thats the Same one Marc uses, its from Infinity tools.  I really like it, the counter sink and drill depth are both adjustable so when you get to the center sink depth you set, you can't go any deeper, goof proof for people like me.

They are a little pricey ($35) but really worth it in my opinion. 

Is this for a set? Someone somewhere posted a set from one of the big box stores that the depth was adjustable and I bought them. The adjustment is a pair of Allen screws that set into the flute of a tapered bit. Probably my fault but the bit broke and it wasn’t a replaceable bit. Chunk that one. I’m not sure I don’t care about the price but just hate like heck to put good money after bad. 

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No this is a single set up, not a set.  I think they have three different sizes based on the dill bit part but I got the one that works with 95% of the screws I use.  I think the counter sink part is the same on all three just the drill is different 

I'll take some pictures of this one tomorrow and get them to you so you get a better idea of how it works.  I think I know the set you are talking about and this one is pretty different.

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13 hours ago, Kev said:

Ok..  I'd of never come up with that thought process..  🤣😂

Yea she just likes to give me a hard time about all my excessive markings on my work pieces that keeps me from screwing up.

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Next thing I did was get the top on and trimmed it out with some shop made molding and added a banding detail around the case at the base and below the top drawer.

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There is one other detail I am adding.  I am doing a faux through tenon with a pyramid design on top on the from two legs.

I removed most of the waste with a forstner bit.

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Then I clamped my template and routed out the rest.

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Then leaving the template in place, I cleaned up the corners with a chisel.

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and it left me with this on the two front corners.

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By this time in the day I didn't feel like tackling the pyramids so I finished the day by spending an hour and a half hand sanding all the details on one of the nightstands... fun stuff,🙄  Shoptalk Live podcast helped it go a little better.

 

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