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I am hoping that I can find in this 104 Bd Ft of Sapele one master bedroom set.

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One of the pieces  Picked out was 16 ft long and 16 inches wide. 

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These are the designs so far.  Although I have already decided to change the feet of the post on the head and footboard.133700535_NightStand.thumb.jpeg.d39feb7cc50b18e0e466ca0122e503ad.jpeg

 

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“If you don’t have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”  John Wooden

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No it is pretty simple, you only have to mark out the mortise on piece if all you pieces are the same thickness like these web frames.  If it is something like a leg and apron then you need to mark ou

After gluing up the leg blanks I cut some veneer to glue over the glue lines on the leg blanks.  You can see the veneer on the top and bottom on this end view of the leg. Doing this gives y

Had some time today and got all the mortises done for the aprons, 32 in all.  After that I used up some scraps to make the loose tenon stock.

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This is really gonna be cool to follow! I’m as equally impressed  with your grid drawings as I am with the design and wood. You have a lathe? 

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25 minutes ago, Coop said:

You have a lathe

No, I sold it to buy my band saw some years back.  The lathe just never held my interest.  Why do you ask?

“If you don’t have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”  John Wooden

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3 minutes ago, Coop said:

The bottom and top of the bed post looked to be turned. 

No, they are just rectangular.  I ma changing the bottom, I don't like the looks of what I have in the drawing.

“If you don’t have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”  John Wooden

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Chet, not sure if you are looking for input on your designs, but I think the headboard has to much going on.  Especially when compared to the dresser.  I think the posts for the HB need to be simplified.  The slats provide an interesting detail, but would leave out the molding/panels in the field of the HB, the curve and slats provide enough visual interest.  All this is just what my eye likes.

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To address Bryans comments maybe a little more history on the projects is in order.   A number of years back we purchased a bedroom set after completely redoing the master bedroom and bath.  We purchased because I didn't have the woodworking chops back then to attempt something like this.  One of the downsides to the set is we had to go with a queen bed because the night stands were so wide that we wouldn't be able to get a King bed in with out he use of a shoe horn and a couple of pry bars.

So what I am doing is duplicating the existing design with some modifications,  one being making the nightstands narrower.  Presently they are 30 inches wide and I am going to make them 22 inches wide.  The other is to obviously make the bed wider.  

The three panels in the head board are raised panels with a 3/4 molding around the boarder, I am not sure I am going to add the molding.

The slates at the top of the headboard are a dental design, not open space between the slates.

The curve at the top of the headboard I drew using my french curves the on on the existing headboard is much more gradual and I will be tracing that one on to MDF to create my pattern.

The most important thing about the design is we like it and my wife really likes it and she is the one that said we should spend some stimulus money on lumber.

“If you don’t have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”  John Wooden

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Beautiful wood there!! I look forward to following the build. Curious (if you're comfortable sharing) what you paid for that Sapele? After your BB bargain to say I am jealous would be an understatement. I lost my main source of local lumber for condo's about a year ago and I am still trying to find a replacement.

On another note if you get a chance would you send me a pic of your parallel clamp rack? I am going to switch mine up to a design like that so I can regain some much needed wall space in my shop.

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2 hours ago, pkinneb said:

Curious (if you're comfortable sharing) what you paid for that Sapele?

I paid $5.88 a Bd. Ft. They call it S3S but it is more of a hit and miss on the face sides you end up with a heavy 13/16.

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“If you don’t have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”  John Wooden

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7 minutes ago, Coop said:

I get confused. Is S3S not sold by the linear ft., and not bf? 

That is why I mentioned that it really isn't S3S it's more hit and miss of skip planed.

“If you don’t have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”  John Wooden

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So the pic you show is from the lumber yard where you can see the grain that you are getting? 

My sources here offer rough sawn and S4S as the only two choices and the grain on the rough sawn is a crap shoot. 

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Yea, they do enough to see the grain but you still need to do some milling.

We used to have a place here in town that sold only S4S and I mean it was perfect.  You wouldn't need a jointer, planer or drum sander but this sapele that I paid $5.88 for, if they were still around today it would cost you close to the equivalent of $18.00 a Bd.Ft..

“If you don’t have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”  John Wooden

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7 hours ago, Coop said:

Only one of three sources of hardwood have it here and they sell it rough cut as exotics and it’s $10.48 bf. 

That's a bit high for Sapele!  @Chet's prices are a bit under the average.  I'm around $7.50 for it.

@Chet's prices in CA are starting to sound better..  Curious what's changed to cause the drop in prices?

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14 hours ago, Kev said:

That's a bit high for Sapele!  @Chet's prices are a bit under the average.  I'm around $7.50 for it.

@Chet's prices in CA are starting to sound better..  Curious what's changed to cause the drop in prices?

I’m curious on this as well. Just priced some cherry at $5.32 a bf. Skip planed to 15/16 and straight edged 

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9 hours ago, Jamie said:

I’m curious on this as well. Just priced some cherry at $5.32 a bf. Skip planed to 15/16 and straight edged 

That's a great price as well!

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I got back to this project today after being side track by the jointer for a few of days.

Prior to that happening, I had got almost all the parts cut to rough size.  I had started roughing the legs last last Friday and when cutting them on the saw there was a lot of energy in them so I sticker them and left them until today.  I had never experienced that with Sapele before.

Everything roughed, Legs stickers on the cart, poplar for the web frames, drawer fronts, tops and sides, from front to back.

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It was a big day of milling, then glued up the 8 legs and 2 tops.

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Drained the clamp rack pretty good.

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Then finished the day by getting the drawer front and side panels close to the final size and matched up the drawer fronts.  

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AND emptied the dust collector.

 

 

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“If you don’t have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”  John Wooden

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2 hours ago, Coop said:

I see a lot of Kev’s cleanliness in your shop!

Or maybe you see a lot of my cleanliness in Kev's shop. 

2 hours ago, Coop said:

Or was that for organization?

The two can be intertwined. ?

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“If you don’t have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”  John Wooden

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7 hours ago, Coop said:

Sounds like a good day! I see a lot of Kev’s cleanliness in your shop! My goal for 2021. Or was that for organization? ?

When you're organized, it's just a lot easier to keep it clean.  Chet's shop was well organized and clean long before I ever had the opportunity to do some projects there!

8 hours ago, Chet said:

Prior to that happening, I had got almost all the parts cut to rough size.  I had started roughing the legs last last Friday and when cutting them on the saw there was a lot of energy in them so I sticker them and left them until today.  I had never experienced that with Sapele before.

I seem to be noticing this a lot more often out of Sapele as well as African Mahogany..  Not sure why, just an observation.

 

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