Chet Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 Submitted on the old forum by Kev I didn't film this one as there's just so many of them out there.. However, my old one was getting pretty beat up so, I tossed a new one together today and snagged a couple pictures that should really explain it.. The jig is essentially 2 layers of 3/4" ply. The bottom layer is cut to the desired depth and a stop block screwed on the back. I also use the T slot in the table to keep it straight. The second layer is divided into 4 sections. Throat layer - Full length of your jig X the distance from your blade to the inside of your saw. Mine is a few inches short as I used my fence to keep the base layer straight. Back Platform - One edge cut at 45 degrees and oriented on the back half of the jig Front Platform - One edge cut at 45 degrees and oriented on the front half of the jig - This needs to be set as to allow the center section to slide freely without too much slop. I used a piece of printer paper in each joint to assure enough room. Center section - This is the off cut from creating the 2 previous pieces. Essentially creating a sliding dovetail. In the DT area on the outer edge, a recess and hole were drilled to insert a threaded T nut. On the blade side of the sliding DT, a cut off finish nail was inserted to create a pivot point.. Give a shout if there are questions.. Quote "Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not; remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." - Epicurus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chet Posted April 2, 2020 Author Share Posted April 2, 2020 Follow up posts 1) Kev, this is a circle cutting jig for the bs? Maybe Ishould have stopped on the way home for a beer? When you get a chance, without wasting a piece of ply, can you do a short demo on how it works. Just can’t wrap my mind around this. Thanks 2) lol.. If you look near the blade on the center portion of the sliding DT, there's a pin sticking up.. This is the center point of the circle. Move the DT out to your desired diameter, tighten the knob so the DT can't move and cut circles. I'd be happy to do a demo on it for you.. As I'm leaving Friday, it my be a little bit.. 3) Definately not before you leave but if you have time when you return. I still don’t have a clue. Wish this had been a pm now as you already knew how dense I am! 4) All good Coop.. It's just a circle jig that's adjustable. Center of the circle is adjusted on the sliding DT. Still works like any other circle jig. 5) Oh crap bud, I see now that the pin is attached to the sliding dt. I thought it was attached to the base. Sorry to waste your time! 6) No waste of time bud, that's what we're here for.. It's actually easier to cover these things in video but, because of my travel schedule, I just wanted to bang out a quick shop project without dragging the camera gear all over...lol 7) Lol. Took me a few to find the pin too. That's a pretty simple little jig there. Thanks for the pics and explanation Kev! Is the radius of how big the circle will be .. be from the blade to pin, correct? 8)Yep.. That's exactly how it works.. Max size would be the size of your bandsaw. Quote "Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not; remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." - Epicurus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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